MOUNT PLEASANT ELIZABETH SEMILLON 2006

- Lower Hunter Valley, NSW

- $10-$21

- Screwcap

- 10.5%alc

Those who follow Hunter semillon certainly would've noticed the recent release of Mount Pleasant's 2006 Elizabeth precedes that of the 2005. Mount Pleasant's cellar door assures me the 2005 will be released, but because of the show medals it's already amassed its release date has been set back indefinitely.

Already quite evolved, the 2006 Elizabeth presents oodles of kero/toasty development on first sniff, with a mid-straw colour that foretells a dry, savoury fragrance of grilled nuts, lanolin and cooking oil backed by a stagnant citrus tone. Seemingly lacking vitality and true harmony of its components, its rather flat palate reveals forward, developing toast and grapefruit characters marked by mineral/spritz nuances, which end abruptly with a loose formation of zingy acids. As a plus its classically moderate alcohol enables it to flow down the palate with ease.

O Unfortunately, this is the second vintage of screw-capped Elizabeth which hasn't fully met my expectations. It's easy to see why it was brought forward. Now, I'll just sit back and wait to see why the 2005 was pushed back. Drink to 2011.

87 points

www.mcwilliams.com.au

WENDOUREE CABERNET MALBEC 2006

- Clare Valley, SA

- $85

- Cork

- 13.7%alc

Few names excite Australian wine enthusiasts as much as Wendouree; an old fashioned producer whose association with long living reds is practically unmatched in this country. Wendouree's focus is squarely set on grape growing and winemaking, opposing both assertive marketing and self promotion. This point is personified by their traditional bottles, which still display no back label, no contact details and no internet address. How awesome is that?

After 4 hours in the decanter this perfumed and musky young Wendouree opens to powerfully fragrant, multi-faceted aromas of blackberry, plums and rhubarb underscored by more complex accompaniments of earth, game, gumleaf, dried herbs and clove with a polite influence of clean, fresh cedar/vanilla oak. Astoundingly deep, rich and harmonious, its layered, voluminous palate reveals a velvety mouthfeel absolutely packed with moderately juicy, condensed flavours of black bramble berries and malbec derived earth and game coated in polished cedar/vanilla oak. It unfolds down the palate in a savoury, firming and agreeably dry manner, with a surprisingly sensuous, whole mouth coating of silky, fine-grained tannins underpinned by a lingering richness of game, herb and blackberry flavour.

ü+ Like a lot of Wendouree's recent reds the 2006 Cabernet Malbec is much more approachable in its youth than the label's reputation suggests, but it still contains the expected depth and balance of ancient vine material to see it to age effortlessly towards the long term. Drink to 2031.

96 points

WENDOUREE VINEYARD

There are few more apt terms for the Wendouree vineyard than 'national treasure'. Originally planted in 1892 just 3km south of Clare, this ancient vineyard has produced as many deeply flavoured, powerful and most of all long living expressions of Australian wine as any other. Thank heavens it's still in good hands!

p.s. if you do venture down Wendouree Road towards this extremely significant vineyard, just be sure to keep an eye out for rabbits!

MINI-VERTICAL TASTING: MINKO FLEURIEU PENINSULA PINOT NOIR

I had the opportunity yesterday to drink 3 glasses of Fleurieu Peninsula pinot noir from the Minko winery, covering vintages 2005, 2006 and 2008 (current release). Minko was a name previously unknown to me, but my encounters with Tapanappa's unique Fleurieu pinot noir instigated enough enthusiasm in my mind to go and check the Minko wines out.

Outside of Tapanappa's wine I actually have very little experience with this relatively new region's pinot noir. Admittedly, Minko's vineyard is some distance from Croser's. Brian Croser's Foggy Hill vineyard lies around Parawa, at the southern end of the Fleurieu, between Victor Harbour and Cape Jervis, while Minko's vineyard is roughly a 20 min drive north-east of that spot at Mount Compass. Mount Compass sits at the southern end of Willunga, which itself sits at the southern end of McLaren Vale, so in thinking, Minko's cool Mount Compass vineyard is as close (if not closer) to McLaren Vale as it is to Tapanappa's Foggy Hill vineyard. Of course, both Tapanappa's and Minko's Pinot Noirs carry the same Fleurieu Peninsula regional tag on the label.

Minko's Pinot Noir retails for $25, roughly half that of Tapanappa's, while its Mount Compass vineyard was planted in 1997. Considering its price I was actually quite impressed by the Minko pinot style, which is noticeably less oaky than Tapanappa's. The better wines showed a good earthiness and richness of flavour (potential regional qualities?), while the 2005 displayed the brand's potential for development. Personally I think for $25 they're about as good as any pinot South Australia dishes up in that price range.

Basically, if Tapanappa's wine pushes the upper echelon of Fleurieu pinot noir in the future, I believe Minko is capable of giving us something tasty to drink at the lower end of the price scale. I will continue to watch Fleurieu pinot noir with growing interest....

Minko Pinot Noir tasting notes are posted below

Minko Pinot Noir 2008 ($25) Shows a strong yet pleasant aroma of beetroot, overlying savoury cherry fruits, earth and clean, restrained oak. Its palate is light-medium bodied yet pleasingly rich and supple, with a lightly spiced, savoury cherry fruit core bound by an understated, dry coverage of lithe tannins and acid. Considerate, intelligent oak usage is a plus at this price point. It's actually quite composed and elegant, with all the elements in place to age until the next World Cup. (full review soon) 91

Minko Pinot Noir 2006 ($25) Bizarre nose. Yes, there's some rhubarb and game, but I also get grapefruit and something that resembles wheat or grain. Quite unusual. Its palate lacks pinot's typical suppleness and fluffiness, as its mouthfeel reflects something more like a lighter dry red. Its ripe fruit resides somewhere in the currant/game spectrum, and although its quite sumptuous through the mid-palate, I'm not entirely convinced of its varietal quality. It is quite drinkable though. 87

Minko Pinot Noir 2005 ($25) Instantly brings me back to varietal correctness, with a more herbal, savoury overlay to cherry, earth and cinnamon aromas. Its good, soft palate is brought to life by a true thrust of lively acids and tannins (a surprise for its age), which leave a good impression through outline. Although soft it's quite luscious, and the fullest and most filled out of the 3 wines. A lingering earthy tone punctuates its finish. Top value and a fine indication of the wine's ability to age, as it could easily sit down for another 2, or maybe even 3 years. Picked up a bottle and I might review it, maybe...92

FREYCINET RIESLING 2009

- East Coast Tasmania

- $22-$33

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

From their unique micro-climate on Tasmaina's picturesque east coast, Freycinet consistently produce what I believe to be Tasmania's finest riesling. Recent vintages have proven this to a tee, in particular the juicy, crystal-clear and schisty 2007 (95pts).

Intensely fragrant, with a chalky, mineral, slightly spicy and sharp expression of white flower, pear/apple and paw-paw aromas, the 2009 Freycinet reveals a long, racy palate packed with considerable shape and structure. Its clean announcement of varietal lime juice, rose petal and spicy musk stick flavours are driven along by a viscous undercarriage, which in turn gets offset by a side-splitting extract of powerful, powdery acids and citric freshness. It finishes with exceptional length, tightness and austerity; bearing the lasting impression of true top shelf material.

ü+ Freycinet's 2009 Riesling exudes class and character throughout all of its aspects; aroma, texture, flavour, structure and length. Just fabulous. Drink to 2021.

95 points

www.freycinetvineyard.com.au

OZ WINE TOONS

HAHNDORF HILL WINERY SHIRAZ 2007

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $30

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

Located between the townships of Hahndorf and Balhannah in the central Adelaide Hills (right near Shaw and Smith), Hahndorf Hill is a boutique winery famous with locals for its proudly modern, visitor-friendly cellar door. Hahndorf Hill's sole red wine (with the exception of a sporadic blaufrankisch) is a shiraz made in the Adelaide Hills' typically rich, spicy style.

Showing great depth and vibrancy of colour, HHW's 2007 Shiraz opens to floral, savoury scents of game meats, violets, dark plum and blackberry backed by cinnamon and white pepper with a modest touch of vanilla/cedar/chocolate oak evident. Held together by a manageable, dry and powdery structure, its medium-full bodied palate bursts with rich, velvety dark plums and berries augmented by savoury, earthy undertones. It finishes positively long, displaying balance, vitality and a mouthfilling richness underlined by lingering notes of choc-raisin, clove and fennel.

ü+ Like their regional neighbours Shaw and Smith, Hahndorf Hill has delivered a winning shiraz from 2007. Although not as exotic or spicy as some recent releases, it's richly flavoured, harmonious and most importantly; delicious. Drink to 2016.

92 points

www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

RED HILL ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2008

- Mornington Peninsula, VIC

- $16-$28

- Screwcap

- 13.6%alc

My ever optimistic view on the state of things in Australia tells me there's been a noted improvement among Australia's $20-$30 pinot class in the last 5 years, but my fear of disappointment generally keeps me away from the $10-$20 class. A $16 (on discount) pinot like this one from Red Hill Estate is just the type of wine I would've been extremely wary of 5 years ago.

Loosely varietal and lean, the 2008 Red Hill Estate's thinly veiled fragrance of roast meats, cherry, sweet cedar oak and airy spice precedes a light-medium bodied, fluffy yet hollow palate marked by metallic edges. A certain degree of suppleness and red berry/cherry flavour benefits the palate, but it's also quite angular and its finish leaves the mouth with a lingering astringency and rawness.

X Although not a complete train wreck (thanks to the presence of some happily valid varietal elements), the 2008 Red Hill Estate does remind me why I usually want at least a twenty in my wallet when buying Australian pinot noir. Drink to 2011.

86 points

www.redhillestate.com.au

CHARLES MELTON NINE POPES 2007

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $45-$70

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

Charles Melton's Nine Popes is recognised as Australia's benchmark interpretation of a southern Rhone blend. With heat, drought, a compressed vintage and low yields, 2007 proved a real headache for South Australian growers, but some old-vine grenache styles provided real highlights from both McLaren Vale and the Barossa.

Presenting a deep, dark crimson colour, the 2007 Nine Popes opens to a vividly ripened, rich and somewhat meaty nose of raisins and plum fruits smoothed over by sweet vanilla oak, causing it to appear a bit oaky at this stage and in need of more time to integrate. Incredibly dense and plump, its weighty palate pumps out a smorgasbord of bright fruit flavours, revealing raspberry, rhubarb, plums, currants and game meats with a sprinkling of cinnamon stick character. There's an even coverage of fair tannins, glossy acids and an expansive sweetness emanating from its deeply fruited core, but the sweetness seems to be imparted more from sweet, smoky oak as opposed to confectionery Barossa grenache.

O This very youthful Nine Popes is presently too sweetly fruited and too sweetly oaked to genuinely thrill me. It does possess real weight and depth though, so given the choice I'd sit some aside for a while in the hope of encouraging complex savoury development and integration. Drink 2013-2015.

91 points

www.charlesmeltonwines.com.au

ROLLING SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLON 2009

- Central Ranges, NSW

- $12-$20

- Screwcap

- 12.0%alc

The high altitude vineyards of New South Wales' Orange/Central Ranges region have proven well suited to sauvignon blanc, a point which Cumulus amply illustrated with their 2009 Climbing release (91pts).

Cumulus' second label, Rolling, has delivered an uncomplicated SBS from 2009 with light scents of sauvignon blanc derived passionfruit/tinned tropical fruits leading aromas of lemon zest and nettle. Its light-medium bodied, forward palate presents a well timed, juicy hit of clean and fresh fruit flavour in the middle section, before finishing with brassy undertones and hints of apple in a soft, loose fashion without any significant tightness.

O An eye catching label and 4 bronze (!?) medals on the bottle might help this find its niche market, where it should drink okay with seafoods or in a pub atmosphere. Other than that there's not much to excite serious drinkers in this clean yet uninspiring SBS, although it is priced accordingly. Drink now.

87 points

www.rollingwines.com.au