BURGE FAMILY WILSFORD WINEMAKERS VO TAWNY

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $32-$36 (500ml)

- Cork (Capsule)

- 19.5%alc

Thanks to his family connections with the old Wilsford winery, Rick Burge is able to fashion a thoroughly diverse set of Barossa fortifieds using some very old base materials. Atop Rick's sextuplet of fortified styles sits the VO Tawny, a grenache-based wine awarded a Top Gold at the 2010 Rutherglen Wine Show.

A powerful, heady, intoxicating whiff of alcohol commands the aroma of Rick Burge's VO Tawny, giving a sharp, vaporous intensity to its deeper set notes of fruitcake, currants, spice, orange rind and vanilla oak. The fumes alone would scare the pants off any teetotaler, but the wine's strength contains itself nicely on the palate, which is charmingly rich yet balanced and integrated throughout. Its burnt caramel and nutty rancio flavours persist with sticky saturation along a medium-full bodied framework, leading into a more open-ended, aggressive finish where spirit and spicy fruitcake notes forge the wine home with a lingering orange jam-like sweetness and alcoholic heat. It revels in the intensity of its finish, so a single glass should suffice.

ü A marvellous little show of the excesses of Barossa tawny, without the excessive price. For slightly less ($22), you can get Rick's Old Barossa Tawny (90pts) with even more alcohol (21.0%). Drink now.

92 points

www.burgefamily.com.au

YALUMBA VINTAGE PORT 1969

- Barossa Valley/South Australia?

- $50-$60 (Auction)

- Cork

- Alcohol not stated

Australia has a long, rich history of fortified wine production, written into the books by brands who now reside as household names. Old Ports from Hardys, Penfolds, Seppeltsfield and Yalumba still hold their presence on the secondary market, but more importantly, they constitute a living, drinkable memory of Australia's wine past.

It's slightly unnerving drinking a wine that's older than you. It's kinda like drinking your dad; with respect. When opened and ready to go, this 42 year old Vintage Port presents warm and inviting, if piercing and vaporous scents, with an air of sharp volatility providing an aerial kick to its deeper set notes of raisin dominated, spicy fruitcake with cranberries and crushed nuts. Oh yeah, there's alcohol aplenty in there as well. Its wonderfully captivating palate presents an unsurprisingly rich array of honeyed fruitcake flavours, held into place by an ever present aura of spiky, warming spirit, that sets itself in from first touch and never lets go, before revealing hints of green olive and oily nuts in its spirit infused, rather sticky climax.

ü There's so much to appreciate about drinking a 42 year old bottle of wine, that scoring it almost seems inappropriate. Realistically, I don't see any reason why the 1969 Yalumba Vintage Port wouldn't last another 10 or 20 years, but I'd drink to that! Drink to 2019.

90 points

www.yalumba.com

MORRIS CLASSIC LIQUEUR MUSCAT

- Rutherglen, VIC

- $14-$22

- Screwcap

- 17.5%alc

Picking a favourite out of Morris's entry level muscat or tokay is merely a matter of personal taste. Do you prefer the toffee and tea leaf characters of the tokay, or the slightly richer, more raisined flavours of the muscat? Either way, it's a win-win situation for lovers of fortified wine.

Mmmmm yes. Classic aromas of sultanas/raisins, fruitcake and light spice rise from the glass of the Morris Muscat, expressed with more than minor suggestions of spirity warmth, richness and a nasal tickle that's hard to ignore. In lieu of its rich underbelly, it's actually quite piercing to smell deeply. Throughout the palate those same characters persist, yet definitively, a luscious, comforting taste of liquid fruitcake delves with a snuggly warmth, before perfectly pitched influences of alcohol and a faint dryness partner its sweetly set richness to a refreshingly long, just plain positive finish. Its sheer drinkability is a huge plus, so it's by no means a one nip muscat.

ü+ I continue to be beyond satisfied by the entry level muscats and tokays of Morris. They must be some of the most consistently emptied bottles of wine at my place. Drink now.

92 points

www.morriswines.com

MORRIS OLD PREMIUM LIQUEUR TOKAY

- Rutherglen, VIC

- $55-$75

- Screwcap

- 18.0%alc

I'm not usually one to harp on about $65 wines being good value for money, but in the case of the Morris Old Premium Liqueur Tokay (the one with the black tin), I'd have no hesitation in saying it's genuinely undervalued at that price. In all respects, Morris' flagship release of tokay is about as good as the style gets.

The Old Premium presents itself as a glorious dark brown colour with a touch of olive-green and even a tinge of yellow to the rim, before opening to deep, heady scents of burnt toffee and choc-caramel, with the appropriate aged rancio/nutty characters complemented by further suggestions of black olive and dried, dark green tea-leaf. On the palate it's pure hedonistic joy, as it reveals an almost exoteric expression of intense thickness, depth and lusciousness. Its extravagantly rich flavours literally swirl around the mouth like dense waves, marrying a perfectly harmonious, complex blend of pronounced sweetness with savoury (nuts), dry (tea) and even sour (acid) character that's difficult to describe in words, but it certainly finishes extraordinarily long and fresh, imparting deeply stained, lasting impressions of burnt toffee, roasted nuts and clean spirit with a hint of granulated coffee.

ü+ An utterly, utterly magnificent drink no matter how you look at it. Every serious drinker of Australian wine should consume at least one bottle of this in their life. It's tokay-fection. Drink now.

97 points

www.morriswines.com

PENFOLDS CLUB TAWNY

- Riverland/Barossa Valley, SA

- $7-$15

- Cork (Capsule)

- 18.0%alc

As both a regular on Adelaide's city streets and a drinker of wine, I can't help but notice the recurrence of empty wine bottles littered throughout the urban environment. Dumped bottles of Penfolds Club Tawny are as common as any in Adelaide, but I'm unsure if its presence is an indication of brand preference amongst Adelaide's sidewalk swillers, or perhaps even sneaky Foster's advertising:) (make that Treasury Wine Estate's now).

Mid-dark brown, this sweetly scented, mass-produced tawny opens to a straight forward note of fruitcake with suggestions of marzipan and a gentle, warming whiff of alcohol. Displaying lightish, honeyed fig and raisin flavours, its simple palate does finish with lingering nuances of varnish and sticky, sugared nuts and dates, but its rather short length of fruit is somewhat overcome by balanced, clean acids and a well restrained alcoholic warmth.

ü Drink of the huddled masses. If faced with the less than desirable circumstances, I'd probably give in to its guilty pleasures too. It tastes much better out of a glass than straight out the bottle though (I know, I tried!) and yes, I disposed of it correctly. Drink now.

87 points

www.penfolds.com

STANTON AND KILLEEN VINTAGE FORTIFIED 2002

- Rutherglen, VIC

- $27-$43

- Cork

- 18.1%alc

Take a quick look around any Australian liquor store and you'll notice vintage fortifieds aren't the most popular style around, but one thing's for sure, you can always rely on Stanton and Killeen to make a stunning example of the style. In addition to shiraz and durif grapes, Stanton and Killeen's 2002 also includes the classic Portuguese varieties of touriga nacional, tinta cao, tinta barocca and tinta roriz.

Crimson red/garnet in colour, the 2002 reveals a funky, complex and deep nose that shares some elements with maturing warm-climate shiraz, although there's also an obvious, generous whiff of fortifying spirit ever present. Liqueur cherry and stewed date aromas lead the bouquet, which also presents nuances of rich chocolate/plum sauce and boot polish with a savoury hint of spicy, seasoned oak residing throughout its spirity fumes. Its wonderfully elegant palate is gentile in more of a medium-bodied style, with lusciously rich and sweet, shiraz/durif influenced brandied cherry and plum flavours harnessed by the savoury and rustic qualities of the Portuguese varieties, which add complexity and character to the aftertaste in particular. Its silky smooth textures are drawn down the palate by traces of sour acidity, polished, matured tannins and an all too welcoming coverage of spirity warmth underscored by choice flavours of game meats and raisin.

ü+ Only just starting to hit its straps, the 2002 is a classic reflection of Stanton and Killeen's efforts to make a fortified wine which balances both Australian and Portuguese traditions. Drink to 2017.

93 points

www.stantonandkilleenwines.com.au

D'ARENBERG VINTAGE FORTIFIED SHIRAZ CHAMBOURCIN 2005

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $19 (375ml), $30 (750ml)

- Cork

- 17.5%alc

One of Australia's more historic wines is d'Arenberg's Vintage Fortified (first declared vintage 1928). An industry defining wine back in its day, its mere presence in that classically labelled bottle transports me to a time when fortified wines were the elixir of the masses. For a change chambourcin (32%) has been added to the 2005, which should be a familiar grape to fans of d'Arenberg's popular Peppermint Paddock sparkling red.

Dark crimson red, this young Australian fortified opens to a rich, meaty bouquet of currants and plum/berry concentrate, with dark chocolate undertones lifted by notes of spice, tar and cleanly restrained spirit. The charmingly composed palate is very smooth and essence-like, with sweetened regional shiraz flavours marked by a faint herbal edge and a gentle dusting of dry tannin. It finishes very long and particularly fine for the style, with a consistent balance evident from front to back palate, and a climax pushing through rich berry fruit flavours which are eventually overawed by a lingering impression of sensational, organic bitter dark chocolate.

ü+ d'Arenberg's 2005 is a totally convincing and delicious young fortified, which drinks very well right now in an absurdly rich and spirity shiraz-style, but it certainly contains all the components to develop into something special with patience. Top value. Throw some in the cellar, you won't be disappointed. Drink to 2025.

94 points

www.darenberg.com.au

CHATEAU REYNELLA 16 Y.O. RARE OLD TAWNY

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $10

- Cork (Capsule)

- 19.5%alc

Despite the controversy surrounding Chateau Reynella's U.S. parent company, no one could doubt the present day wine quality of this historic brand. The old-vine grenache, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and fortified wines of Chateau Reynella often fly under the radar, but they easily rate with McLaren Vale's finest.

Although not terribly deep in colour this affordable Tawny is a definite brown, unravelling to intensely lifted, heady scents of raisins, orange rind, gentle spice and smoky oak, all of which is overcome by a lingering whiff of strong spirit. There's a lack of penetrative length or depth to its more forward, lighter Tawny-style palate, whose juicy, raisined flavours of Christmas pudding and scorched butterscotch end with a spirity sharpness and sour edges.

ü Regardless of its $10 asking price, I did expect more from this label. It's a lovable cheap Port and not much more than that, which makes it hard to score for me, as even the cheap stuff flows down my palate with discerning ease. Drink now.

87 points

MORRIS LIQUEUR TOKAY

- Rutherglen, VIC

- $14-$21

- Screwcap

- 17.5%alc

For anyone looking for an entry point into the under-rated delights of Australia's rich and luscious fortified wines, they need look no further than the Morris Liqueur Tokay. At $15 it isn't just one of my perennial favourite Australian wines, it's also an absolute bargain. Every time I see it on a wine list, the little grandfather inside of me can't help but raise a suggestive smile.

A lush golden brown colour, this Non-Vintage Tokay opens to a fragrant nose of toffee, nuts and tea supported by overtones of fruitcake character. Luxuriantly smooth and sticky, with pleasing balance, its rich palate shows a myriad of bright, ripe tokay flavours with notes of honeyed sultana and toffee in the driver's seat. Of particular note is the fine finish; clean and generously long, with just a hint of spirity warmth which doesn't dominate.

ü+ Once all the sparkling shiraz has been polished off, there might not be a more appropriate way to wind down Christmas than a bottle of Morris Liqueur Tokay. Drink now.

92 points

www.morriswines.com.au

OLIVER'S TARANGA THE BANISHED

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $28-$34

- Cork (Capsule)

- 19.0%alc

Here's a bottle which I previously looked at in the back reviews section of this website, but after downing another bottle on the weekend, I feel it completely deserves the full review treatment. It's a fortified grenache produced from base wines with an average age of 20 years by Oliver's Taranga, a McLaren Vale winery whose exceptional products deserve far greater recognition than they receive (as do their cellar door staff Briony and Trudy - love your work guys!).

Golden/caramel brown in the glass, it slowly unfolds to rich, honeyed aromas of fruitcake, sweet toffee and gentle spice, with a surprisingly pleasing level of restraint and integration. Thick in texture, with a flow akin to melted butter, the luscious palate displays a gently understated intensity of its mature caramel mudcake, orange peel and tea flavours, supported by undertones of stonefruit and dried apricots. It finishes long and persistent with a delicious aftertaste of sweet nuttiness complemented by moderate alcoholic warmth.

ü+ The Banished is an incredibly clean and balanced 20 year old fortified. It's fresh as a daisy but with enough mature, complex elements to keep the most discerning of drinkers happy. Fortified fans should 'unbanish' this, now. You won't regret it. Drink now.

94 points

www.oliverstaranga.com

CAMPBELLS RUTHERGLEN TOKAY

 - Rutherglen, VIC

 - $15-$22

 - Screwcap

 - 17.5%alc

Now under fourth generation family ownership, Campbells is a long established maker (since 1870) of Rutherglen fortified wines, best known for their exceptional muscats and tokay. Both styles are released at a variety of price points by Campbells, but one thing's for sure; you're always guaranteed outstanding value by any Campbells fortified wine.

Light amber/golden-brown in colour, Campbells' entry level tokay presents a light, airy fragrance of classic varietal quality, as its tea-leaf, burnt toffee and mandarin rind aromas precede a clean and smooth palate augmented by a pleasing thread of richness. Although not terribly complex, deep or luscious; it's keenly balanced, bright and vibrantly flavoured in an uncomplicated yet particularly appealing, easy drinking fashion. The finish is generously long and fresh, with persisting notes of tea marked by well judged sweetness and carefully restrained alcohol.

ü+ If there's such a thing as great quaffing tokay, then this is it. Drink now.

91 points

www.campbellswines.com.au

SEPPELTSFIELD CELLAR NO.6 TOKAY

 - Rutherglen, VIC

 - $15-$23

 - Screwcap

 - 16.5%alc

Most of Australia's fortified drinkers would've breathed a huge sigh of relief when the Seppeltsfield winery was purchased by Kilikanoon in 2007. Since the historic transaction, there's been a change of image with the labelling of numerous Seppeltsfield wines, doubtlessly to avoid confusion with the Seppelt brand. I do hope the current labels are temporary, as they appear overly simplistic and cheap for such significant drinks.

Radiant mid-bronze in colour, the Cellar No.6 Tokay presents a slightly one dimensional fragrance of distinct tea leaf aromas, with undertones of raisin and burnt toffee. Very creamy in texture (at room temperature), its forward palate is rounded to the point of disbelief, announcing fluffy tea leaf and stonefruit flavours. Although lacking in concentration and richness, it's complemented by a drying, not too sweet finish laced with gentle, ticklish tannins.

O Quite a tasty, very iced tea-like tokay, it's more of a drink and enjoy, rather than sit and contemplate style. Drink now.

88 points

www.seppeltsfield.com.au

FORTIFIED WINES (4)

In my opinion fortified wine is the most overlooked of Australian wine styles. Many people don't realise that Australian fortifieds stretch way beyond that of the humble cask/bulk ports. Indeed, we are one of the world's greatest producers of the style.

Australia's most expensive wine is a fortified, the Seppelt 100 Year Old Para Liqueur, which doesn't get released until it's 100 years old (the current vintage is 1909) and retails for around $1000.

South Australia's red regions produce some lovely expressions of fortified wines, but any discussion of Australian styles must surely focus on the heartland of Australia's fortified industry, north-eastern Victoria's Rutherglen region.

The traditional wineries of Rutherglen make some wonderfully rich, old liqueur tokays and muscats, to which

there is barely any equal in the world. These wines are also seriously undervalued, with standard releases being available for $15 and reserve releases of very old wines selling for around $40-$70. The leading producers are Morris, Stanton and Killeen, Campbell's, Chambers Rosewood and All Saints. Their wines make unbeatable after dinner drinks.

For my fortified wine reviews I've selected the Chateau Reynella Vintage Port 1998, Morris Liqueur Muscat, Morris Liqueur Tokay and Oliver's Taranga The Banished. All are current releases, however, I'm unsure where you'd get a bottle of The Banished other than direct from the winery, but it's well worth the effort for fortified lovers.

CHATEAU REYNELLA VINTAGE PORT 1998

 - Region: McLaren Vale, SA

 - Price: $20-$35

Hardys rate right up there with Australia's leading makers of vintage port. Their Chateau Reynella is a classic interpretation of the Australian style.

Made from a base of McLaren Vale shiraz fruit (from a very handy vintage), its dark, brooding nose reveals a deeply layered fragrance of prunes, plums, violets, dark chocolate and spice. Thick and heavy, with wonderful concentration of its fruit character, obvious shiraz derived flavours of plum and berries are impeccably balanced with absurdly rich chocolate and spice. The finish is slightly sweet, warm and spirity, just as it should be in a 19% alcohol fortified wine.

ü+ Rich, smooth, concentrated and jammy, the 1998 Chateau Reynella is an outstanding vintage port guaranteed to improve for decades. Drink to 2028.

94 points

MORRIS LIQUEUR MUSCAT 

 - Region: Rutherglen, VIC

 - Price: $14-$20

The Non-Vintage Liqueur Muscats and Tokays of Morris are reliably some of the best value fortified wines in Australia.

Medium-brown in colour with amber hues, the muscat reveals a fragrance of fruitcake, raisins and orange peel, overlying a whiff of nutty complexity. Its smooth, luscious palate delivers flavours of raisins and figs, accentuated by notes of dried fruit emanating throughout its finish. Balance is spot on.

ü+ Morris Liqueur Muscat is a particularly impressive fortified, especially given its price. Picking a favourite between this and the tokay is merely a matter of personal preference. For me though, it's the tokay, just. Drink now.

91 points

MORRIS LIQUEUR TOKAY

 - Region: Rutherglen, VIC

 - Price: $14-$20

Morris is currently under the ownership of French company Pernod Ricard through its links to Orlando. I sincerely hope the French take good care of this Australian national treasure.

A lush golden-brown colour, the Non-Vintage Tokay opens to a fragrant nose of toffee, nuts and tea, supported by strong overtones of fruitcake characters. Luxuriantly smooth and sticky, with pleasing balance , its rich palate shows a myriad of bright, ripe tokay flavours, with notes of honeyed sultanas and toffee in the driver's seat. Of particular note is the fine finish, clean and generously long, with just a hint of spirity warmth which doesn't dominate.

ü+ Outstanding value for money and a great introduction into the world of rich fortified wine. Drink now.

92 points

OLIVER'S TARANGA THE BANISHED

 - Region: McLaren Vale, SA

 - Price: $30

With barely a weak link in their superlative range, Oliver's Taranga is arguably McLaren Vale's in form winery. Their fortified grenache, The Banished, is made from base wines with an average age of 20 years.

Golden/caramel brown in the glass, it slowly unfolds to rich, honeyed aromas of fruitcake, sweet toffee and gentle spice, with a surprising level of restraint and integration. Thick and buttery in texture, the luscious palate displays a gently understated intensity of its mature caramel mudcake, orange peel and tea flavours, with undertones of stonefruit and dried apricot. It finishes long and persistent with a delicious aftertaste of sweet nuttiness and moderate alcoholic warmth.

ü+ A 20 year old fortified which is fresh as a daisy; The Banished is blessed with incredible balance and cleanliness. Fortified fans should un-banish this, now. Drink now.

95 points