WESTEND 3 BRIDGES CHARDONNAY 2009

- Riverina, NSW

- $17.95

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

In this modern age of wine consumer consciousness and theoretical values, warm climate chardonnay must be an increasingly hard sell to the sophisticated drinker. Despite the proud standing of Westend's 3 Bridges label as a benchmark of what can be achieved in Australia's warm inland river regions, I can't actually see any indication of regional sourcing on the label here. 'Wine of Australia'.

Abound with powerful, nutty aromas resonating from its cashew-like oak, the 2009 3 Bridges Chardonnay is no shrinking violet, as it punches out further aromatic big tones of ultra-ripe melons and sweet nectarines smoothed out by a touch of butterscotch residing beneath. It precariously covers the bases of bold, sweet, fruity and savoury, but smells okay while doing it. Rich, creamy stonefruits roll out its relatively buxom palate, which does show a fraction more poise than the nose. Length is good and although it finishes flavoursome, it's a shade loose and fuzzy to conclude, with energetic, sweet chardonnay fruits depositing brightness and softness, if not really discipline, elegance or finesse. In context of its origins, however, it's actually very well produced and clearly over delivers, making it easy to see why the 3 Bridges label is respected as it is.

O Not a subtle chardonnay, but definitively creamy, round, bold and overtly varietal. Perhaps not my type of hot weather white though. Drink to 2013.

88 points

www.westendestate.com.au

MCWILLIAM'S INHERITANCE CHARDONNAY 2010

- South Eastern Australia

- $4-$11

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

The surprise packet Inheritance Chardonnay from 2009 gifted me much more drinking pleasure than I'd usually expect from a $5 wine. Were it not for a touch of heat through the finish, it would've scored even higher than the 87 points I awarded it 50 weeks ago. Taking that into account, it's good to see McWilliam's wound the alcohol back in the 2010.

Once again, it's hard to deny what's on offer here for much the same price as non-alcoholic chardonnay. Although not as well defined as the 2009, the 2010 Inheritance does reveal an inoffensive, light fragrance of citrus rind and kiwi fruit, smoothed out by a sly note of nut oil. If anything, it's a little too light on the nose, as it seems to lack varietal punch. This quibble carries over to the palate, where its cleanly textured, under-ripe melon and lemon tart flavours become more citric accented down the line, courtesy of a brisk influence of bitey, grapefruit-like acids. It's well made for the price and shows a relatively kind transition from smooth entry to crisp finish, it just needs more flavour, that's all. Drink cold.

O A very plausible, clean expression of what's essentially a generic white wine. Even though that may be its purpose in life, I was hoping for something a bit more 'chardonnay-like', like its predecessor. Drink to 2012.

85 points

www.mcwilliamswinesgroup.com

STEFANO LUBIANA COLLINA 2008

- Southern Tasmania

- $60-$75

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

When it comes to maintaining a high standard of quality, across an entire range, year in, year out, Stefano Lubiana is one of Australia's strictest. Mediocre clearly isn't in the man's vocabulary. Atop his whites sits the Collina, a 'best of the best' chardonnay produced only in exceptional seasons (2003 was the only release prior to 2008). When Mr Lubiana says 'best of the best', you know he means business...

The first thing you'll notice about the Collina is its gorgeous label, and then, of course, what an equally gorgeous wine it is. It's savoury and stylish foremost, yet refined and intricately detailed, unfolding a clean and clear whiff of biscuity oak bitten by pure, mineral scents of grapefruits and lemons, with carefully placed suggestions of white flower, nougat, hazelnuts and cinnamon adding real pizzaz in a wonderfully controlled way. For a fleeting moment, my mind is cast to Champagne. That thought clearly dissipates in the mouth, where it bedazzles with an arrestingly complex yet perfect marriage of intense, penetrative structure and texture, the latter of which reveals an ethereal suppleness and fragility. To say elegant might be understating its smooth, seamless movement of restrained flavour, which slowly unravels pear, crisp vanilla biscuit, apple and citrus, all checked by stunningly clean, mouth-watering, racy acids that match its textural touch for sheer thrill. Contrasting notes of nuts and lemon sherbet in the aftertaste only add to its pleasure. I could write an essay on this, but common sense says no...

ü+ I've been wondering who's going to step forward and claim the as yet undecided crown of Tasmanian chardonnay - one of Australia's most underrated and promising modern styles. Stefano Lubiana's Collina steps forth like a casanova at a hen's party. I've never had a Tasmanian chardonnay like it. Let's just hope it's not another 5 years till the next one comes round. Brilliant. A real keeper. Drink to 2018.

96 points

www.slw.com.au

WOLF BLASS GOLD LABEL CHARDONNAY 2010

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $16-$25

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

The modern day Wolf Blass winery finds itself in an ambiguous state. Perched somewhere in TWE's overgrown family tree, Wolf Blass still maintains its place as a household name with Australian drinkers, but its ever changing range and high end products hardly excite the self respecting serious consumer. Really, all-encompassing wine quality must cut through marketing and gadgetry for the once exalted status of Wolf Blass to return. Wines like the 2007 White Label (94pts) and 2010 Gold Label Chardonnays are taking things in the right direction, but it is reds this brand is famous for...

Nutty, creamy, yeasty, perhaps vanilla ice cream cone-like and full of bright, complex character, the 2010 Gold Label Chardonnay sits right in the label's modern groove, supporting its obvious, yet charming inputs with restrained fruit scents of white nectarines, melons, lemon and spice. Showing more control of its fruit than earlier outings, its creamy palate is announced by an upfront savoury richness, pushing clean notes of nuts, brioche and lemon/lime yoghurt into a smoothly set, softly structured finish, whose length and acidity just lack the penetration and biting tightness to instigate real wow factor. Don't mind that though, because its value and style both receive big ticks.

ü+ With so much going on within Wolf Blass it would be easy to ignore the Gold Label Chardonnay. I don't know why, as its character, rich texture and balance make it so easy to like. It's an ideal entry point for proper Aussie chardonnay. Drink to 2015.

91 points

www.wolfblass.com.au

ASHTON HILLS CHARDONNAY 2009

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $35-$47

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Ashton Hills has long been one of the Adelaide Hills' most underrated makers of a handsomely made and fruited, showy chardonnay, so its followers will be saddened to know 2009 marks the wine's second to last release. As sad as it was to hear of Stephen George grafting all his chardonnay over to pinot noir (from a chardonnay lover's perspective), if one guy in the Adelaide Hills did such a thing, you'd want it to be Stephen. And then I drink this...

Well leesy and cheesy yet contained, with scents of green melons, lemon, apples and minerals rising above a savoury background of nutty oak and cinnamon, Ashton Hills' 2009 unleashes a classically proportioned chardonnay fragrance, by combining delicacy with intensity and weaving clean fruit through its human inputs. The palate doesn't disappoint either, smashing a rich array of white stonefruit and citrus flavours with nutty oak undertones throughout the mouth with a wonderfully nervy, racy energy and stunning length. It doesn't stop there though, as it finishes savoury and funky, with lingering notes of cream cheese and a more buttery, popcorn-like impression of oak polished up beautifully by a seamless, lengthening extract of mouth watering acids. It's far from orthodox or formulaic, reflective of the maker himself.

ü+ A totally convincing expression of a superbly manufactured wine. What a shame the second to last release of Ashton Hills Chardonnay is probably the best I've had. If early indications of the vintage are anything to go by, the final wine from 2010 should be a belter. Drink to 2017.

94 points

PETALUMA BRIDGEWATER MILL CHARDONNAY 2009

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $17-$25

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Petaluma's second label was once famed for possessing one of the Adelaide Hills' most exciting sauvignon blancs, but personally, I view chardonnay as Bridgewater Mill's trump card. The ludicrously over-achieving 2004 (93pts) was a standout example of what should be a 'mini-Petaluma' chardonnay.

Brightly lit and cleanly scented in a carefully fruited fashion that might lack forthright complexity, Bridgewater Mill's 2009 nonetheless reveals a citrus driven fragrance of nectarines and melons with a slightly spicy touch of nutty vanilla oak and perhaps a note of soap for varietal funk. Palate-wise, it's juicy and fleshy enough to begin, as it softly unfolds a glossy statement of bell-clear white/yellow chardonnay fruits and creamed nuts that develop pungency down the palate, where notes of sweet white peach and grapefruit emerge. It's well backed by a spotless formation of refreshing, balanced acids, making the whole package look remarkably well made and considerately crafted in the winery. Basically, it isn't gonna set the world on fire, but it's exactly the type of 'built-for-the-now' chardonnay that could (and should) muscle in on the pinot grigio/sauvignon blanc obsessed lunchtime crowd. Full marks to Petaluma for hitting the mission statement right on the head here.

ü Charmingly balanced, elegant and subtle, yet proudly varietal, the 2009 is easily the best release since 2004. It's a real step in the right direction for Bridgewater Mill - precisely the sort of chardonnay they should be releasing under this label. Drink to 2013.

90 points

www.bridgewatermill.com.au

YERING STATION RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2005

- Yarra Valley, VIC

- $56-$72

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

The Yarra Valley enjoyed a cracking vintage for chardonnay in 2005. Coldstream Hills' seamless, near perfect 2005 Reserve (96pts) provided a seasonal high point for me back in October 2007, but Yering Station's 2005 Reserve (95pts) wasn't too far behind. Ah, good times they were, and now, I'm reliving one of them.

With a glowing, radiant scent lifting off its pale-golden shades, Yering Station's 2005 Reserve conducts a hi-octane aromatic dance throughout the bowl of my biggest Burgundy glass, releasing yellow nectarine, grapefruit, creamed corn and buttered white toast/popcorn aromas. The line between fruit and oak has been considerably blurred, creating a complex unison of the two. When the time finally comes to drink down, it reveals a most supple, practically fragile texture, which although fractionally creamy, still mimics some elements of beautiful pinot noir, without any sign of excessive weight or richness. Perhaps equally as impressive is an ever present, electrifying zap of sherbety grapefruit/citric acids ensconcing its vibrant flavour, the latter of which resembles sweet yellow stonefruits bookended by minerals and sour cream. It's that understated harmony of complex texture, brightly lit flavour and glistening structure that makes this chardonnay something special. There's more good years ahead here. No doubt.

ü+ I could elaborate much further on this. Let's just say it's a wine that demands respect and, I'm really, really glad I have one left. Drink to 2015.

95 points

www.yering.com

KOOYONG CLONALE CHARDONNAY 2010

- Mornington Peninsula, VIC

- $25-$31

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

The recent recipient of James Halliday's prestigious 'Winery of the Year' award, Kooyong, boasts an impeccably organised assortment of Mornington Peninsula chardonnay and pinot noir. At the more economical end of Kooyong chardonnay sits the typically clean, fruit driven Clonale, which underwent French oak fermentation (12% new oak) followed by 7 months barrel maturation in 2010.

If you contemplate what Kooyong sets out to achieve with Clonale, then the nose of the 2010 fits like a round peg into a round hole. It's nutty and spotlessly clean, with the mineral-coursed fruit aromas of grapefruit and lemon citrus typical of the wine, ably balanced by some creamy, bready lees work imparting an attractive richness into the mix. A sly hint of nutmeg also appears. These characters transfer beautifully onto the palate, which appears borderless without being loose. Creamy but far from fat, it projects a lively movement of lemons and brioche with nutty undertones down the palate with smoothness and good length of flavour, leading into a finish where refreshing softness outweighs brisk acidity and cut, making it ideal for immediate consumption.

ü Modern yes, but soft, refreshing, deliciously flavoursome and very easy to swallow. As a buy today to drink tonight chardonnay, it's about perfect. Drink to 2014.

90 points

www.kooyongwines.com.au

YALUMBA WILD FERMENT CHARDONNAY 2007

- Eden Valley, SA

- $16-$23

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Around 3 years ago I fell in love with Yalumba's value packed 2007 Wild Ferment Chardonnay, awarding it 93 points and purchasing half a dozen, which quickly became one. Fast forward to the present day and as I'm drinking the last bottle, my appreciation hasn't changed one iota.

Golden yellow in colour, with classy, balanced aromas of almond meal, vanilla and cream bolstered by big, BIG yellow nectarines, Yalumba's 2007 Wild Ferment has seemingly flowered in the bottle, becoming richer, bolder, funkier and even sunnier. There's an additional undertone of white nougat too, complementing a nose which has clearly developed beautifully and bountifully over the short term. Its palate's glowingly flavoured, glossy, sumptuous and drinks with discerning ease, as its creamy yellow peach flavours are drawn down the palate to great effect by a powerful, savoury taste of nuts and a fluid undertone of vanilla. It's straight-up delicious and doesn't need to be described much more than that. If you have any, drink up!

ü+ You know those magical times when you pull a wine out of storage, crack it, drink it, absolutely adore it, then gloatingly think to yourself; 'wow, that was exactly when that should've been drunk.' Well, this was one of those times. Perfect. Drink now.

93 points

www.yalumba.com

CAPE MENTELLE CHARDONNAY 2009

- Margaret River, WA

- $34-$51

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

At around half the price of the region's big guns, Cape Mentelle produce one of the Margaret River's truly elite chardonnays. Cape Mentelle's Chardonnay isn't as showy as others in its youth, instead, it leans more towards a refined, mineral style, which even displays light spice notes on occasion.

Quite clean and bright yet complex and elegant; like a sophisticated woman, Cape Mentelle's 2009 Chardonnay reveals a floral, leaner grapefruit and white pear fruit fragrance charmingly lifted by nutmeg aromas and a high, equally sweet and savoury barrel ferment tone, reminiscent of gingerbread. There's a soft, restrained measure of vanilla/butter oak thrown in as well, but its gingerbread-like scent provides the most appeal. Composed and stylish (and better with a bit of air), the palate speaks clearly with pungent, distinctly regional melon and grapefruit flavours deliciously underscored by creamy barrel ferment notes. It etches its way into the mouth's cornices with genuinely forthright, racy, almost side-splitting acids, that fill the mouth and expand the wine with real class, leaving a refreshingly bright trail of nutty flavour left lingering in the mouth alongside a spark of lemon tinged minerals. If anything, it's a little too perfect. A touch of funk, or an edge, would've made it spectacular, but I'm just being picky here.

ü+ Like all of Cape Mentelle's recent chardonnays the 2009 is hard to fault. Its fruit may be a little lean and clean, but the winemaking here is wonderful. The label's changed but the result remains the same; another top class Cape Mentelle Chardonnay that's well worth the money. Drink to 2016.

94 points

www.capementelle.com.au

PENFOLDS THOMAS HYLAND CHARDONNAY 2010

- South Australia

- $13-$22

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

If someone had told me 5 years ago I'd be calling chardonnay Penfolds' most consistent performer in 2011, I might've told them to go jump in a lake of Bin 65. Of particular merit is Penfolds' recent efforts with the lower end Thomas Hyland, which now makes a serious claim to being Australia's most reliable (mass-market) $15 chardonnay.

Not sure why Thomas Hyland Chardonnay has replaced the words 'Cool Climate' with 'Adelaide' on the front label (Hills fruit mainly?), but it still shows plenty of bang for your buck, with its winemaker derived creamed hazelnut and soft vanilla oak aromas mixing it up nicely with tickles of grapefruit and spice, in an ably balanced, rich, bright and crisp style. It's ultra clean and clear in the mouth, revealing true mineral refinement for the dollar, however, there's also a lovely undertone of yeasty/leesy characters providing ample richness and flavour to its creamy palate, which is driven pleasingly long by a bright spark of finely honed in, tangy, perhaps pineapple-like acidity, reflecting all the winemaking polish you'd expect from a modern Penfolds chardonnay.

ü+ Another step up from what must be one of Penfolds' under recognised, yet ever improving labels. You'd be very hard pressed to beat this for a $14 Australian chardonnay at a supermarket chain. Drink to 2014.

91 points

www.penfolds.com

MOOROODUC ESTATE MCINTYRE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2008

- Mornington Peninsula, VIC

- $36

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Established in 1981, Moorooduc Estate was one of the early comers to Victoria's Mornington Peninsula, a region whose modern impressions of chardonnay and pinot noir vie for the title of Australia's best. In keeping with current trends (and the Mornington's elite), Moorooduc Estate now releases a smart collection of single vineyard selections.

Sweetly fruited and mineral, yet doubtlessly touched by man, the 2008 McIntyre Vineyard shows a contrasting assortment of complex chardonnay scents. A wafer-like scent of nutty vanilla oak lingers confidently in the glass, but it's matched by bold aromas of punchy peaches, melons and lemon butter, with a slight suggestion of sweetness providing the punch. In the mouth it's a bit edgy and nervy, with an undisciplined energy that flies along a course of dry, cutting acids, revealing a hint of rawness in the upper reaches. This energy creates a slick and fast, if perhaps unsettled movement, however, its texture's spot on, as is its flavour, which reflects mineral and lemon butter notes that move onto something more leesy, white nectarine and vanilla-like, before the lengthy tightening process begins. If you're keen on a bit of verve in your chardonnay this might work for you, otherwise, give it a quick decant.

O The 2008 McIntyre Vineyard Chardonnay is one of those wines where if I saw it in another year or two, I'd probably give it another point or two, but right now, I'm calling it as I see it. Drink 2013-2015.

91 points

www.moorooducestate.com.au

ORLANDO ST HILARY CHARDONNAY 2009

- Padthaway, SA

- $16-$25

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

As I scan the front label of Orlando's St Hilary, I notice the fine print; 'St Hilary is an elegant dry wine vintaged from grapes grown in Padthaway, a region which has earned an international reputation for premium Chardonnay.' If that's the case, then I hope Orlando continue to release a Padthaway chardonnay; namely St Hilary, which, if anything, has shown itself to be appropriately valued over the years.

Typical of the label, there's a sly yet clear whiff of human intervention evident from first sniff. There are cheesy touches of malo, as well as spicy vanilla oak and yeast on the nose, with its fruity interweaving supplied by aromas of candied white peaches and melon, in a slightly brassy manner that does require more lift and fruit freshness. The palate is medium-full and fractionally round, yet it just seems to cower away when it counts, leaving the mouth feeling fairly nonplussed. Unfortunately, it finishes a little loose, brassy and perhaps warming to boot, as its buttered popcorn-like oak coated flavours of sweet green melon fruits lack the definition, shape and tightness of Australia's pace-setting $20 chardonnays. Overall balance is an issue, although it seems marginally better by night's end.

X For a label and a brand some might consider 'lost', this wine seems just that (and I normally like St Hilary). Drink to 2013.

86 points

www.orlandowines.com

SHAW AND SMITH M3 CHARDONNAY 2009

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $35-$53

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Shaw and Smith's M3 sits confidently at the fashionable end of Adelaide Hills chardonnay. The top vintages are wines of immense character, combining genuinely ripened cool-climate fruit with well balanced winemaking tricks. Personally, I consider the style to reflect a happy middle ground between worked and restrained, although a winery employee recently told me the M3 is more about typically modern, cool-climate restraint and refinement. Judging by the 2009, he's right.

The fruit aromas within Shaw and Smith's 2009 appear consciously restrained, or minimal even. Frozen bananas and grapefruit? Maybe. But what is there is savoury, nutty and lightly spiced, like hazelnuts and nutmeg, with wild yeast/barrel ferment influences depositing the most fragrant tones. The palate is marked by Shaw and Smith's typically creamy announcement and a pleasing length drawn out by polished, brisk acids, concealing a rather delicate, savoury flavour profile also reflective of lees and nuts, with a quick spark of mineral tinged white nectarines barely turning on a light. Initially, there's a lack of oomph on the mid-palate, which could've been brought out by a bolder fruit component, but it does flesh out over the course of a bottle.

O Because I have such high standards for the label, I'm marginally in two minds here. Either way, the 2009 is clearly not as spectacular in its youth as recent M3s, but I'd still love to see it in a couple of years. Drink 2013-2015.

91 points

www.shawandsmith.com

YARRA BURN CHARDONNAY 2010

- Yarra Valley, VIC

- $20-$29

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

Despite being caught up in the crazed existence of corporate ownership, Yarra Burn's winemaking team has hardly skipped a beat. A lot of the focus may lean towards Ed Carr and the sparkling wines, but Mark O'Callaghan's done a great job lately with Yarra Burn's white label chardonnay, pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon in particular.

The aromatic delicacy expected of 1 year old Yarra Valley chardonnay is evident in Yarra Burn's 2010. Clean and simple, green apple and grapefruit citrus aromas reside in the glass, but its most pleasing feature at the moment may be a light barrel-ferment derived note of white nougat and yeast, which is given an admirable zing by its sharper lemony edge. Essentially mimicking the nose, its palate is very clear and perhaps a bit bland right now, although it is well balanced, not to mention blessed by a lovely richness of flavour which becomes more leesy as it progresses, with a particularly soft yet bright acidity providing good palate extension. The fruit character here is notably lean, or restrained even, so bottle aged development is encouraged.

ü Hmm. Texture, length, acid; check. Fruit flavour... more please. Here we have one of those wines which just seems to lack that something special, although there is clearly nothing wrong with it. I'm possibly being a bit tough here, because there are many other Yarra Valley chardonnays out there cut from the same mould, which just seem better. It is fairly priced though, if perhaps released a little too early for me. Drink 2012-2015.

90 points

www.yarraburn.com.au

SAVATERRE CHARDONNAY 2008

- Beechworth, VIC

- $70

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

The introduction of Savaterre Chardonnay into Langton's latest classification really caught my eye. Why? Because I've never had it before and can't pass judgement. A bit of research reveals it as a high quality chardonnay (obviously) from the same region that brings us Giaconda. That's about all the selling I needed...

After following the back label's advice to decant for several hours, Savaterre's unfiltered and deeply coloured 2008 unloads a good dollop of toasty, buttery oak aromas laid in place by 2 years French oak maturation. Its wood is quite prominent at this stage but underneath it you'll find a deep fragrance of cumquat and peach, just lifted by a tight note of cinnamon. There could be a lack of buzz to its complex, relatively profound scent, but I can see time sorting things out. Beautifully textured, bright and savoury, its palate is sumptuously expressive yet soft and fluffy, revealing a considerable strength concealed by a gentle nature. It presents a smooth and seamless balance of faintly tropical chardonnay fruits with toasty/buttery oak, framed by a viscous undercarriage of yeasty characters and a refreshingly brisk acidity, which combine to deliver the wine with perfect harmony towards a good, spotlessly clean finish marked by tasty touches of buttery nuts and light spice.

ü+ A superbly textured chardonnay whose complex winemaker inputs play the starring role, but its quality of fruit is such that it remains a most brilliant drink. It'll be particularly interesting to see how this balance evolves over the next few years. Drink to 2016.

95 points

www.savaterre.com

BARWANG 842 CHARDONNAY 2008

- Tumbarumba, NSW

- $30-$43

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

As much as it pleases me to see 'Australia's First Families of Wine' getting behind emerging regions, my attention was well and truly turned when a brand synonymous with Hilltops reds chose a Tumbarumba chardonnay as their flagship. Fortunately the 842 Chardonnay (named after the elevation of its vineyard site) has been nothing short of impressive since its 2006 debut.

An aromatic line of citrus infused white nectarines and pears ignite the nose of Barwang's 2008 842, aided by smoother suggestions of nougat, vanilla oak and leesy/nutty barrel ferment notes, which complement character, complexity and an attractive balance of sweet and savoury intrigue. The smooth and sumptuous palate is agreeably rich in a generous, creamy and fractionally forward manner, but its melon and herb fruit expression is crystal clear, light and white in the classic (if slightly plump) cool-climate mould. Buttery oak and more savoury notes of matchstick/wheatmeal emanate from its plump and juicy, clear fruit base, lingering into the aftertaste alongside a regrouping of herbal melon tones and an effortless balance of polished, squeaky clean acids, which carry and hold the wine with charming grace.

ü+ Although it would benefit from a bit more length and refinement, Barwang's 2008 842 Chardonnay is a wonderful package with enough richness and winemaker induced complexity to make an impression, yet just enough restraint of cool-climate accent to please the modernists. It's drinking beautifully right now. Drink to 2014.

93 points

www.mcwilliams.com.au

BROOKLAND VALLEY VERSE 1 CHARDONNAY 2010

- Margaret River, WA

- $12-$21

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Brookland Valley's Margaret River sourced Verse 1 range would have to sit among the quiet over-achievers of Australia's 'heavily discounted brand champions' (I made that last bit up). The chardonnay in particular can excel, just as it did in 2006 (92pts). With some 50,000 wines in Australia, it spins me out to think someone 2,000km away might be drinking the same wine as you.

There's some fairly sweet and simple, peach and melon fruits evident on the nose of Brookland Valley's 2010 Verse 1, which is also graced by an edge of nuts and vanilla suggesting the human touch. The winemaker influence actually appeases me, because the fruit beneath doesn't exactly smell like the Margaret River's best. Its palate follows through with a soft, rounded dollop of straight forward fruit flavour announced in a suitably clean, bright manner, but its loose structural elements are rather lacking and as a result its length of fruit isn't drawn down the palate with enough emphasis. From nose to finish, it's truly a quaffer.

O For its low-end price (around $12-$13) Brookland Valley's 2010 Verse 1 Chardonnay isn't bad value, but its overly simple, clean fruit and uncomplicated structure force me to liken it as a sauvignon blanc drinker's chardonnay. Drink to 2013.

87 points

www.brooklandvalley.com.au

BANNOCKBURN CHARDONNAY 2008

- Geelong, VIC

- $50-$60

- Cork

- 13.5%alc

In addition to being one of the key wineries behind Geelong's modern day renaissance, Bannockburn was also among the first names associated with truly great Australian pinot noir. However, some of Bannockburn's recent outings have polarised critics and consumers alike, a concern which might have lead to the declassification of Bannockburn Chardonnay from Langton's 2010 classification. Personally, some of my own experiences with Bannockburn wines over the last few years have enforced the benefits of screwcap closures...

From first sniff Bannockburn's 2008 Chardonnay continues the run of fine form set by the label. Tight and funky, like an ambidextrous drummer playing Funkadelic, its classically refined nose expresses both sweet and savoury suggestions through a fragrance of ripe nectarines, green melons and creamy cedar oak, with cheesy/leesy tones and a touch of wheat adding further complexity to an intriguing scent. Medium-full in weight, equal parts rich and viscous; its palate does a stellar job of pushing through a persistent flow of bright fruit meshed with savoury/leesy influences, coating the mouth from front to back with soft nectarine, vanilla and yeast flavours heightened by a dash of nutmeg. An attractive acid balance completes the package; it's beautifully offsetting, bright and penetrative, but the key feature is the way it just cruises alongside its rich core of flavour, creating a wonderful synergy of opulence and discipline to draw out a long, lingering finish.

ü+ Like others, I haven't been terribly enthused by some recent Bannockburn pinot noirs, but I have absolutely no qualms with their 2008 Chardonnay whatsoever. A fine combination of richness and tightness, savoury and fruity; it's my kind of chardonnay. Great stuff. Drink to 2015.

94 points

www.bannockburnvineyards.com

STEFANO LUBIANA PRIMAVERA CHARDONNAY 2009

- Southern Tasmania

- $25-$33

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Whether it be pinot noir, chardonnay, riesling, sauvignon blanc or sparkling wines, I've never experienced a bad drop from Stefano Lubiana. With yields down in 2009, Lubiana's entry level chardonnay, the Primavera, was the only chardonnay made that year.

The 2009 Primavera Chardonnay rises attractively from the glass with a bright, savoury and grainy fragrance, that conceals both a crystal-clear cool-climate fruit profile of granny smith apples and grapefruit, as well as a tightly hidden influence of dry French oak. Furthermore, its aromatic focal point is quietly bookended by lower, richer notes of toffee and yeast, with a clever touch of spice pleasing the high notes. Slick and refreshing, its palate is powered by a clean, buttery undercarriage that flies through to a nutty finish marked by departing notes of melon and herb, however, with air and warmth a brassier note emerges down the line, denying the wine a little length and definitive freshness, so don't drink it too warm. Regardless of this minor quibble, it's still a very clean, intricately made Tasmanian chardonnay that suits immediate consumption beautifully.

ü My view remains the same; I've yet to have a Stefano Lubiana wine I wouldn't buy twice. Drink to 2013.

91 points

www.slw.com.au