Established in 1981, Moorooduc Estate was one of the early comers to Victoria's Mornington Peninsula, a region whose modern impressions of chardonnay and pinot noir vie for the title of Australia's best. In keeping with current trends (and the Mornington's elite), Moorooduc Estate now releases a smart collection of single vineyard selections.
Sweetly fruited and mineral, yet doubtlessly touched by man, the 2008 McIntyre Vineyard shows a contrasting assortment of complex chardonnay scents. A wafer-like scent of nutty vanilla oak lingers confidently in the glass, but it's matched by bold aromas of punchy peaches, melons and lemon butter, with a slight suggestion of sweetness providing the punch. In the mouth it's a bit edgy and nervy, with an undisciplined energy that flies along a course of dry, cutting acids, revealing a hint of rawness in the upper reaches. This energy creates a slick and fast, if perhaps unsettled movement, however, its texture's spot on, as is its flavour, which reflects mineral and lemon butter notes that move onto something more leesy, white nectarine and vanilla-like, before the lengthy tightening process begins. If you're keen on a bit of verve in your chardonnay this might work for you, otherwise, give it a quick decant.
O The 2008 McIntyre Vineyard Chardonnay is one of those wines where if I saw it in another year or two, I'd probably give it another point or two, but right now, I'm calling it as I see it. Drink 2013-2015.