CALABRIA PRIVATE BIN AGLIANICO 2009

- Riverina, NSW

- $14.95

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

Strange as it may sound to some, Bill Calabria's Westend Estate is behind some truly groundbreaking reds at the moment, made from Riverina fruit, and sold for $15. Alongside Australia's only Saint Macaire (an ultra rare variety with Bordeaux origins), the shamelessly Italian inspired Calabria Aglianico is growing a steady following for its savoury nature, firm structure and food friendliness. Much like the Calabria's themselves, these Private Bin releases are doing a lot to help reshape the future of Australia's warm inland river regions.

Oh my. On first sniff the Calabria shows promising signs of being a textbook, new age Aussie quaffer, as the late ripening aglianico has produced an earthy and floral, rather savoury and feral wine by Riverina standards, that still underpins its fragrance with a slightly leathery expression of classically sun-drenched, ripe dark plums and cherries marked by dry cedar oak. Its palate unleashes a comforting mouthful of similarly dark, berry, cherry and plum flavour, capably enveloped by a back end of dusty, savoury tannins, forthright acids and a lingering note of licorice, but it doesn't quite live up to initial promise, because I detect a faint diluteness to its taste. It's a grievance that can easily be overlooked for $15, because the wine's good body, structure and length all meld together in vivid harmony, making it such an easy red to slide down the back of the throat. So long as you can handle the tannin, of course.

ü+ Despite one niggle, there's so much potential on display here, particularly in terms of aglianico's character and its suitability to the hot Australian sun. Given time, experience and increased vine age, I think the Calabria Aglianico could establish a new benchmark for inland reds. Drink to 2016.

90 points

www.westendestate.com

S.C. PANNELL GRENACHE 2009

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $42-$58

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

S.C. Pannell Grenache is a real buzz wine at the moment, racking up high praise from practically anyone fortunate enough to encounter one. Following on from his award winning 2009, Stephen Pannell's 2010 just won 'Best Grenache' at the McLaren Vale Wine Show, making it back to back local victories for this emerging classic.

Softly perfumed, with a vivaciously ripened yet beautifully controlled, wildly open aroma of earthy redcurrants, kirsch, prunes, blueberries, cloves and cinnamon gently backed by older oak, the multi-faceted nose of S.C. Pannell's 2009 Grenache displays a complex combination of pinot-like graciousness with McLaren Vale intensity and sweet fruit. All its elements sing in harmony, with no one trying to steal the show, as it literally revels in the warmth of its season. Its palate is just so soft, silky and unforced, with an ethereal suppleness rare in Australian grenache, yet throughout the movement its gritty, rustic accent of juicy, jammy forest berry flavours are equally checked by an ultra-fine coverage of dry, bony tannins, which deliver the wine to a fine, persistent finish of outstanding focus, marked by both sweet fruit and savoury aspects. It's pointless to pick a high point here; texture, structure, length, impeccable oak handling, they're all winners. Basically, she's downright sexy and about as good as McLaren Vale grenache gets.

ü+ It's eminently justifiable consecutive Stephen Pannell wines have won two straight McLaren Vale grenache trophies, because this increasingly popular style might've just unearthed its new champion. World class. The modern face of traditional McLaren Vale? Drink to 2021.

96 points

www.pannell.com.au

MITCHELL HARRIS ROSÉ 2011

- Pyrenees/Macedon Ranges, VIC

- $21.95

- Screwcap

- 12.5%alc

By conceiving a synergistic blend of early picked Pyrenees pinot noir, Pyrenees sangiovese juice and Macedon pinot sparkling pressings, Mitchell Harris have given birth to one of Australia's most fascinating, dry and savoury rosés. For smart phone users, the 2011 release has a QR code journey waiting to happen on the back label.

There's an interesting, if light mix of sweet, savoury and even sour suggestions on the nose of the 2011 Mitchell Harris Rosé. Glazed cherries, strawberry juice, nuts and lemons make a sharp point; reflecting some degree of its varietal make up, with a dollop of cream riding along to fractionally soften the scent. It's all fairly even and well pitched for the style, leading into a palate that reveals some marginally dirty, sweet 'n' sour edges to its uncomplicated rosé flavour, which I struggle to get past. On the plus side it's brightly flavoured, appropriately weighted and fairly persistent, but ultimately, I feel it lacks the freshness and zing I so adored in its predecessor (2010-89pts).

O Keen rosé drinkers will find a welcomed friend in the 2011 Mitchell Harris, but to me, it looks more like a good Sunday arvo café quaff, rather than the pacesetting, dry and racy rosé the 2010 was. Drink to 2012.

87 points

www.mitchellharris.com.au

MITCHELL HARRIS SANGIOVESE 2010

- Pyrenees, VIC

- $24.95

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

Much like McLaren Vale and the Barossa Valley, Pyrenees reds tend to bare a strong stamp of regional influence that's hard to ignore (concentrated dark fruits, firm tannins and eucalyptus notes instantly come to mind). In paying respect to that, the team at Mitchell Harris have taken a deliberately simple and rustic approach to their first sangiovese (gentle crushing and de-stemming, 8 year old French oak maturation), just to see what the Pyrenees style is all about.

Happily rustic within its winemaker's intentions, the 2010 Mitchell Harris Sangiovese shows an air of savoury quality above its black cherry and currant fruit base. A sly, regional whiff of dry leaf resides without dominating, as it's equally matched by a gentle note of dry spice, expressed in a savoury, twiggy kind of way. There's a commendable litheness to the palate, which shows elements of both regional and varietal influence, however, with time, its place of origin speaks ever so clear. It competently captures the lighter, more supple aspects of sangiovese, merging a dry, dark and savoury taste of black cherries underlined by ripe, juicy fruits into a nuttier finish marked by notes of bay leaf and a curling lick of well controlled, chalky tannins. Its tight structural outline provides much needed discipline, clicking everything into place nicely.

ü A typically ripe, dry and dark fruited Pyrenees red, which shows the region might actually be able to pull off some of the lighter styles (in its own way of course). As ever, the methodical winemaking of John Harris has helped paint a clear picture here. Drink to 2016.

90 points

www.mitchellharris.com.au

TAYLORS PROMISED LAND MERLOT 2010

- South Australia

- $7-$15

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

According to the information provided by Taylors' June media release, recent Australian market data shows the Promised Land Merlot is the fastest growing wine within its respective varietal segment between $10-$14. Additionally, the 2010 Merlot acquired a silver medal at the 2011 International Wine Challenge in London, which has been something of a happy hunting ground for large Australian wine companies lately. Now then, onto the wine.

Whether it's truly reflective of merlot or not you can decide, but the 2010 Promised Land opens gradually (yes, a bit of air helps a lot) to a predictably straight forward yet relatively pleasing fragrance for a wine of its ilk. It's bright enough, with an oaky scent of granulated coffee showing surprising appeal over its simple red cherry and plum aromas, which thankfully, rise with an additional hint of light spice, or perhaps cinnamon even. Flavoured by similar plum-like tones, its palate is agreeably medium-bodied and juicy up front, if marginally dilute to progress, but its smooth, polished edges display nothing ungainly, awkward or over ripe, although it does finish somewhat short and simple with a minor baked note to pass. However, that could be being a bit picky, because thanks to its smoothness and admirable taste, it actually drinks A-OK as a quaffer.

O Definitively simple yet inoffensive. I'm in agreement with GrapeScott on this one. The merlot is my pick of the 2010 Promised Land reds. Drink to 2013.

86 points

www.taylorswines.com.au

S.C. PANNELL NEBBIOLO 2007

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $45-$56

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

Stephen Pannell certainly ruffled a few industry feathers last summer with his controversial 'All For One Wine' project. Now that the dust has settled, I do hope Stephen's positive intentions didn't put anyone off his own label, because it's easily one of the most exciting brands to come out of South Australia in recent years.

Lifted by a sweet, musky fragrance of rose petals, nutmeg and cinnamon, with its ground scents laid out by leathery/tarry suggestions of cherries and orange rind, S.C. Pannell's 2007 appears a typically alluring, attractively earthy Australian nebbiolo of the simultaneously feminine and masculine style. Neither oak nor flamboyant ripeness obscures its varietal integrity (although it is perhaps a shade ripe to be exceptional), which allows the palate to gently release an understated, elegant texture, supported by the earthy, meaty, sour-edged cherry notes and the fine, firm, crunchy backbone that nebbiolo lovers obsess over. Its structure isn't actually as physically imposing as one might expect, but its tight acid/tannin balance remains bright as a spring day, pulling the wine together like a level playing field to reveal a long, rustic finish of some class, with sour-edged accents and a taste of meat providing the final impression.

ü+ I wouldn't go as far as to say S.C. Pannell's 2007 is a brilliant nebbiolo, but it is a true, artful nebbiolo, and outstanding value for money at that. Like most things nebbiolo, it's left me in a pleasant state of intrigue, basically aching for more. Drink to 2019.

92 points

www.scpannell.com.au

WESTEND 3 BRIDGES DURIF 2009

- Riverina, NSW

- $19.95

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

Westend's 'super premium' 3 Bridges label represents some of the smartest drinking you'll find from Australia's warm inland river regions. 3 Bridges wines are inevitably constructed with more ambition, thought and effort than one would usually associate with their region of origin. Atop the range sits Westend's Durif, a wine made from a variety well known for producing charmingly rugged wines under the hot Australian sun.

Faithful to its region yet well executed, the 2009 3 Bridges Durif presents a typically ripe nose marked by plum syrup and blackcurrant scents. However, unlike many of Australia's river precinct reds, it's valiantly lifted by a floral edge, whilst a clever touch of toasty cedar/mocha oak imparts a drier quality without consuming the fruit. Its palate does a fine job of delivering dark, inky flavours backed by a mouth-filling yet controlled coverage of dry and sandy durif tannins, but regrettably, it just seems to lack richness and weight through the mid-palate. If that hole had been filled, this would've been quite the wine, because although its length of fruit does pull up a fraction short, it still finishes with rustic meaty aspects, structure and grit, like a true warm climate Australian durif should.

O As is, Westend's 2009 3 Bridges Durif is a more than competent red perfectly set for hearty red meat dishes, but were it not for a solitary flaw, it would've really launched some fireworks. Amazingly, at the end of it all, it actually presents like a more decorated wine than it is. Drink to 2017.

89 points

www.westendestate.com

WOODLANDS RESERVE DE LA CAVE CABERNET FRANC 2010

- Margaret River, WA

- $65

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

If it's a pristine expression of Australian cabernet franc you're after, then you need look no further than Woodlands' Reserve de la Cave. With the stunning results regularly achieved by Woodlands' Cabernet Franc, it makes me wonder why more Australian producers don't treat the variety with the same level of attention.

I love the fresh green-edged/capsicum scents of cabernet franc, and the 2010 Reserve de la Cave has it right there, sitting at the peak of its bouquet. Its green characters also show a drier herbal edge, which bolster, define and lift its violet, cassis, black cherry and toasty cedar oak aromas with piercing intensity. Despite revealing a velvety plushness of texture backed by chalky tannins, its palate still feels a little youthful, or elemental initially, as these two components don't quite seem in perfect harmony just yet, so a decent decant is advised. Once exposed to a bit of air though, there's no denying the quality on offer here. You'll find it's deliciously saturated with dense forest berry flavours, covering every colour from red to purple to black, all driven along a savoury, dry undercarriage of toasty cedar tones into a wonderfully conceived finish, that's as spectacular for its length as it is for its direction of perfectly composed, fine-grained structure.

ü+ What a wine! Elegant, harmonious, simultaneously perfectly regional and varietal. Picking a favourite between this and Woodlands' 2010 Malbec is challenging to say the least. The cabernet franc may need a bit more time, but I feel its varietal character suits the Margaret River better, however, the malbec is just so delicious. Either way, both wines make note taking a lot of fun. Drink to 2024.

96 points

www.woodlandswines.com

WOODLANDS RESERVE DE LA CAVE MALBEC 2010

- Margaret River, WA

- $65

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Woodlands issue the Reserve de la Cave label to an occasionally spectacular, rather scarce trio of (typically) single barrel selections of estate grown pinot noir, cabernet franc and malbec, all of which are sourced from a vineyard planted between 1975 and 1977. At their best, the Reserve de la Cave Malbec and Cabernet Franc surpass all of their Australian counterparts.

Blessed by vividly ripened, slightly sinister yet even aromas of cassis and purple fruits with a deft touch of fragrant, classy cedar oak, the 2010 Reserve de la Cave Malbec hits a beautiful air of perfumed, floral quality, that's as attractive for its brightness as it is for its balance and restraint. Throughout the mouth it manages to be luxuriantly silky within a definitively medium-full bodied framework, whilst its impact is best felt through an incredible depth of flavour. For all its depth and power, it's also harmonious and wonderfully controlled, as its youthful, concentrated dark berry fruits are drawn with outstanding persistence, focus and a valid gamey meatiness long into the mouth. To complete the picture, there's a damn sexy extract of tightly woven acids and beautifully disciplined, ultra-fine tannins, which coil together and work like a team. As a drinking wine, there's an awful lot of high points and absolutely nothing to bitch about.

ü+ The 2010 Reserve de la Cave Malbec contains the picture perfect composition of perfume, texture, depth and fine-grained structure which essentially no one else in Australia can achieve with the variety. It's an immaculate malbec. I wonder what the chances of Woodlands making 2 barrels are... Drink to 2024.

96 points

www.woodlandswines.com

RUNNING WITH BULLS BAROSSA TEMPRANILLO 2010

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $15-$21

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Yalumba's done a fine job of issuing an everyday drinking tempranillo of good standard (with some degree of anonymity), right when Australia needed one. It's interesting to note the Running With Bulls label now also includes a Wrattonbully tempranillo, in addition to the more commonplace, warmer climate Barossa version.

A sense of Barossan generosity adorns the 2010 Running With Bulls Tempranillo. It's augmented by a fragrant edge that casts my mind to a continental smallgoods shop; cured meat, black olive and cola nut, but these more exotic notes remain a mere side plate to its aromatic main course of cherries, blackberries and plums, all expressed with ripe regional character and sensitively used oak. Somewhat luscious and silky, its medium-medium/full bodied palate expresses cherry and plum fruits and appears to be definitively more regional than varietal. For those who choose to ignore this minor quibble, it actually drinks really well. It's smooth, brightly flavoured and flows along seamless curves, allowing its good length of juicy fruit to saturate the back palate underneath a balancing framework of approachable, ticklish tempranillo tannins.

ü The argument here, like many South Australian tempranillos, is just how varietal is this? Push that aside however, and you're left with a delicious, classically sumptuous and bright Barossa red that's perfect for immediate drinking (and good value too). I must say though, with tapas on the table, it'd be hard to pick this over the old world stuff. Sorry about that. Drink to 2016.

90 points

MOUNT AVOCA MERLOT 2009

- Pyrenees, VIC

- $25-$27

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Like many others throughout Australia's south-east, Mount Avoca suffered a disastrous 2011 vintage, losing all but a small amount of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc to floods and rain. Fortunately for Mount Avoca, their current release 2009 reds are of a high enough standard to warrant tasty consolation.

Although beautiful to look at with its vivid crimson hues, the nose of Mount Avoca's 2009 Merlot isn't quite so vibrant, as it just seems a bit closed now and in need of more time to open up. What is there reflects dark plums and cherry fruits, with a soft, slightly toasty, spicy vanilla oak influence laying a calm aromatic blanket over its fruit. Its palate captures merlot's supple aspects well and like Mount Avoca's other 2009s, it displays a pleasing brightness of flavour up front, this time revealing clear cut cherries and chocolate notes transcending into something much grittier, more savoury and rustic to finish, with a dry, baked earth-like aftertaste. A prominent structure, particularly by Australian merlot standards, assertively wraps up the whole package. It's tight, sandy and conclusively drying, with more than a fair whack of grit providing masculine grunt as well as a certain edginess.

ü An interesting, physical Australian merlot with structure and suppleness, which probably requires a bit more time to come together and show its best. It may not be in the same league as Mount Avoca's delicious 2009 Shiraz (92pts) or the highly thought of Cabernet Sauvignon, but then again, how many Australian producers could honestly say their merlot is equal to their cabernet or shiraz? Drink 2014-2019.

90 points

www.mountavoca.com

THE ISLANDER SANGIOVESE 2008

- Kangaroo Island, SA

- $16-$21

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

One of the more interesting sangioveses in Australia at the moment belongs to French winemaker Jacques Lurton, a man who accompanied his love to Kangaroo Island (on honeymoon), then fell in love with Kangaroo Island. Jacques' innovative work with Kangaroo Island reds in particular, is generating much deserved interest in South Australia's remote and relatively unknown, cool-climate island region.

With funky, gamey aromas of tobacco leaf and herb, the 2008 Islander Sangiovese releases a pleasingly varietal perfume loaded with a strong and straight dark cherry fruit component and a lick of vanilla. The palate sits proudly in the light/medium-medium bodied weight range, with balance and directness being its keys. At first, it appears rather straight forward, but deeper inspection reveals a wine that twists and turns with ample character and control. Its bright cherry, almost kirsch-like flavour is distributed throughout the mouth by wonderfully vivid acids and tightening tannins, finishing with lingering sour-edged aspects enhanced by hints of cured meat and herb, as well as a lively tickle that goes on and on.

ü+ If it's a lighter bodied, long, refreshingly structured and food friendly red you seek; on the cheap, then you need look no further than the 2008 Islander Sangiovese. With experienced, enthusiastic men like Jacques Lurton around, you'd be hopping mad to ignore the promise offered by Kangaroo Island's wines. Drink to 2015.

91 points

www.iev.com.au

HAHNDORF HILL WINERY BLUEBLOOD BLAUFRÄNKISCH 2009

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $35

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

One of the wines that really stood out to me last year was Hahndorf Hill's 2008 Blaufränkisch (91pts), especially when it was served with a quartet of German sausages, sauerkraut and mash. Some have likened blaufränkisch to an Austrian pinot noir, but I thought Hahndorf Hill's first release (made from vines around 20 years old) was more like an Adelaide Hills version of Barossa grenache.

HHW's second blaufränkisch, now aptly named Blueblood, seems a touch riper and darker fruited than its predecessor, but it handles it well. A floral whiff of crushed herbs, menthol and white pepper carries its ripe dark cherry and plump blueberry fruits with lifted appeal, while a smooth scent of chocolate oak resides patiently below. The chocolatey tones impart a more melting chocolate-like feel and character to the palate, which is particularly smooth, richly flavoured in a medium-full bodied sense and subsequently easy to consume in its youth. Expect vibrant liqueur cherry and dark plum fruits at its core, drawn sumptuously down the palate by an approachable, soft-edged structure beset with lithe, refreshing acids and ultra-fine tannins that curl up a fraction at the final stanza, leaving a touch of gentle spice to linger gently in the mouth. The balance works.

ü The two 'blaus' I've had from Hahndorf Hill have both been from challenging seasons but happily, they've both been delicious drinks. Just imagine what these guys might be able to achieve with this special variety from a kinder vintage. Eyes to the skies people, eyes to the skies. Drink to 2014.

91 points

www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

CORIOLE VITA RESERVE SANGIOVESE 2007

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $50

- Cork

- 13.5%alc

With plantings dating back to 1985, Coriole has been a pioneer of Australian sangiovese. As the vines have matured, recent Coriole Sangioveses have seemingly gone from strength to strength, to the point where, Coriole has now released a reserve level wine destined to join the ranks of Australia's new varietal benchmarks (which Coriole Sangiovese kinda was anyway).

From a hot, dry vintage, Coriole has fashioned a sangiovese that's lifted out of the glass by a fresh, minty fragrance, but underneath it's very rustic and savoury, with robust smatterings of scorched earth, leather and cherries co-existing with chocolate/cedar oak, to deliver a splendid nose loaded with character and complexity. Medium-bodied and silky to commence, the palate reveals a brightness of varietally correct savoury cherry flavour that's hard to resist, particularly with a lick of chocolate providing a delicious undercarriage, but the palate's most defining feature would have to be its seriously imposing structure, the likes of which I've never seen from Coriole. Even at 4 years old it's powerfully firm, drying and expansive, with coarse, chalky tannins and sour-edged acidity chiselling out a long lasting, mouth puckering and slightly astringent finish. Its grip definitely reflects the vintage, although its deliciously ripened fruit might not. Perfect really.

ü+ Powerful, firm, rustic and bright, and certainly handling its difficult season with aplomb, the 2007 Vita Reserve is a much more serious, possibly more masculine proposition than the standard Coriole Sangiovese. It's obviously urging for a stint in the cellar, from which it should emerge a most spectacular expression of an Australian Italianette. Alternatively, just present it around a lunchtime feast. Drink 2015-2020.

94 points

www.coriole.com

MORRIS DURIF 2007

- Rutherglen, VIC

- $20-$29

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

Given the rather heavy hitting, long living wines made from durif in Victoria's Rutherglen region, it makes me wonder why there aren't more examples of the variety from South Australia's warmer districts. Morris has really nailed the style over the years, gifting us firm, robust, weighty, classically Australian reds, sold at a wonderful price to the consumer.

Richly scented and profoundly deep for its price, the 2007 Morris Durif displays a beautifully even, heady fragrance combining dark aromatic character with bright expression. Shiraz-like dark plums and berries, choc-raisins/licorice and a peppery hint of dry roast meats live it up in the nose, while a gentle whiff of chocolate/vanilla oak provides no more than a backing role, allowing its vivid fruit to power through. The palate begins with a similarly bright, generously weighted mouthful of ripe plums and berries, before its nature becomes much more rustic as it progresses, in both taste and feel. Advancing and containing its well measured richness is a powerfully dry, intensely tannic and hard-boned structure, that should take years to settle into its substantial fruit base. Basically, this is what top quality durif is all about for me; impact and age-worthiness. Just strap yourself in and feel the G's!

ü+ A classic Rutherglen durif, that's hard to split from Morris's magnificent 2004 (94pts). However, unlike the 2004, the 2007 is sealed with a screwcap, so you can cellar with complete confidence. Awesome. Drink to 2025.

93 points

www.morriswines.com.au

CLARENDON HILLS BLEWITT SPRINGS GRENACHE 2006

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $95

- Cork (Vintage dated)

- 14.5%alc

From an Adelaide point of view, I've always considered Clarendon Hills to be 'the Wendouree of the south' (there are numerous differences though, not the least of which is consistency). Roman Bratasiuk crafts spectacular individual vineyard reds of immense power, depth and concentration, to which there are few rivals within McLaren Vale. Clarendon Hills wines are expensive and tricky to find, but if the style suits, then the best wines are a must try experience.

From vines planted in 1925, Clarendon Hills' 2006 Blewitt Springs shows one of those classic old-vine McLaren Vale grenache aromas, combining sweet fruit with savoury complexity. There are expressions of leathery earth, game meats and perhaps mushroom, expressed with perfume and intensity, and bolstered by a wonderfully deep, bright core of multi-coloured forest berries adding real sex appeal. Its ripeness is generous and vivid, without being excessive. An incredible acid/tannin structure, rare in Australian grenache, harnesses the palate with a sensuous, net-like coverage. Within its ultra-fine, slick and fanned-out confines resides a mouthfeel of genuinely elegant suppleness, filled out by a richly flavoured symposium of berry compote notes. Although it becomes progressively drier and fine-grained to finish, in a more than welcomed, procrastinating fashion, it also shows a slight jammy quality and a warm hint of menthol.

O The supple, elegant feel of this well structured grenache comes across as something of a surprise from Clarendon Hills, yet it reflects its variety and vintage to perfection. Even for the price, this is quite a grenache, but if it wasn't for a touch of warmth at the finish, then it would've scored an extra point and a tick. Drink to 2018.

94 points

www.clarendonhills.com.au

CAPITAL WINES THE BACKBENCHER MERLOT 2009

- Canberra District

- $25

- Screwcap

- 13.3%alc

Capital Wines is a small Canberra District producer, whose enthusiasm for the micro-blogging social medium, Twitter, has raised their profile dramatically, now putting them in the enviable position of being a small winery whose demand often outstrips supply. Admittedly, if it wasn't for Capital Wines use of social media, I probably wouldn't be holding this bottle now.

Australian merlot fans will be happy to sense dry accents of cedar, herbs and light spice residing in the airspace above Capital Wines' 2009 Backbencher, underpinned by comforting aromas of plums and cherries tightly bonded by a classy touch of chocolate/cedar oak. Its invitingly medium-medium/full bodied palate appears darker, silky to touch yet conclusively dry and fine-boned, with an attractive mix of olive, earth, red plum and melting chocolate notes graced over by velvety tannins. However, the Backbencher's best feature must be its sheer drinkability, attained through a lush nature. With smooth, soft and seductive curves, it literally oozes its way from front to back palate, leaving the mouth with a lasting impression of faintly sour-edged, bright varietal fruits dipped in milk chocolate. Yum.

ü+ A very modern impression of a ready to drink, genuinely ripened, cooler climate Australian merlot. As a second label merlot, the 2009 Backbencher makes many of Australia's first labels look, well, like a politician caught sniffing a seat. Drink to 2017.

91 points

www.capitalwines.com.au

BLEASDALE SECOND INNINGS MALBEC 2009

- Langhorne Creek, SA

- $12-$21

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

Bleasdale are perhaps the only Australian winery willing to tackle the Argentinians head on, in the game of larger scale, single-varietal sun-drenched malbec. Although Bleasdale's previous release (2008-86pts) strayed too far into ripe, jammy, basic BBQ red territory, over the years they've proven more than capable of delivering genuinely varietal malbec under the right conditions, at a very competitive price.

Bleasdale's 2009 does present a faint floral scent common to malbec, but its nose is more defined by ripe, jammy accents, with a raisin-like, meaty dark fruit component touched by some rather smoky secondhand oak. Opening with medium-weight and a marginal suppleness, the palate slides quickly into the same spectrum as the nose, revealing slightly baked, astringent dark fruit and earth characters coated in smoky oak, before finishing quite mineral, rough and rustic, in a spiky and drying fashion which isn't exactly elegant, but it could be worse.

X Although far from perfect, Bleasdale's 2008 was still a juicy, easy drinking quaffer of a malbec. Unfortunately, the rougher and edgier 2009 has taken things a slight step backwards. Let's hope 2010 sees a return to form for Bleasdale's occasionally excellent malbec, which hasn't exactly been a consistent performer lately. Drink to 2014.

85 points

www.bleasdale.com.au

KATNOOK FOUNDER'S BLOCK MERLOT 2007

- Coonawarra, SA

- $14-$22

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

The perception of merlot in the eye of Australian wine quaffers always intrigues me. Many have told me merlot is their favourite wine, but as I see it, merlot is a variety many Australian producers get wrong. Personally, when I buy Australian merlot, I generally look to regions capable of great cabernet sauvignon, such as the Margaret River, Coonawarra and the Yarra Valley.

Unfortunately, Katnook's 2007 Founder's Block shows the unevenness associated with both Coonawarra's 2007 vintage and inexpensive Australian merlot. It's soupy but green, with thinly scented, sticky plum, cherry and cinnamon aromas coursed over by a minty/herbal note and touched by rather blunt oak. The palate follows with thin, disjointed red cherry fruits underpinned by prune and olive undertones, but funnily enough, it presents a bright lift through the palate's upper reaches courtesy of faintly sour-edged, astringent acids and firming tannins. In theory it may sound like partial retribution, but in reality it only adds to the wine's awkwardness.

X Being neither a juicy, plummy warm climate merlot that would appeal to a quaffer's tastes, nor a serious red to excite those with more 'distinguished' palates, Katnook's 2007 Founder's Block has found an undesirable middle ground. It's certainly a product of a difficult year on the red strip. Drink to 2013.

85 points

www.katnookestate.com.au

ANGOVE NINE VINES GRENACHE SHIRAZ ROSÉ 2010

- South Australia

- $8-$17

- Screwcap

- 12.5%alc

If the (pale-pink) rosé revolution has begun, then someone forgot to tell Adelaide's larger retail chains. A luminescent selection of hot pink and vivid red styles was all I could find in the fridge section of Australia's best known retailer recently. So when forced to choose, my inner pink drinker swayed towards the generally reliable, fairly priced Angove Nine Vines.

Simultaneously predictable and surprising, yet simple and appealing, Angove's very popular Nine Vines Rosé shows the expected aromas of glacé cherries and sweet raspberry with a less anticipated yet more welcomed touch of spice; perhaps white pepper and clove. Its consumer friendly appearance and aromatic suggestions lead into a smooth, ripe strawberries and cream palate that is bound by some candied aspects, but it's held together by enough genuinely slurpable, mid-weighted textures and a soft, limey acid wash to make for a good quaff. Initially, when pulled straight out of the fridge and drunk with haste, it ends a bit dirty, but some air, slight warmth and a little time in the glass see the finish clarify and smooth out somewhat, making the experience that much better.

ü The better vintages of Angove's Nine Vines remind me of a scaled down version 0f Charles Melton's excellent Rose of Virginia, and the 2010 has done just that. For $12, I wouldn't ask for much more. Drink now.

87 points

www.angove.com.au