PRIMO ESTATE IL BRICCONE SHIRAZ SANGIOVESE 2010

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $17-$25

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

A real sleeper within Australia's $20 reds class, Primo Estate's Il Briccone typically resembles a smoothly styled expression of ripe Australian shiraz, enlivened by an Italian inspired savoury twist. The 2010 sees a dominant shiraz component (with a good portion undoubtedly sourced from Primo's esteemed Angel Gully Vineyard at Clarendon) blended with 15% sangiovese, aged in older oak barrels for 14 months.

Really resonating out of the glass with dark aroma and colour, the 2010 Il Briccone packs a very ripe yet piercingly intense punch of spicy currants, dark plums and sour cherry, with trickles of melting chocolate bullets and tar providing an aromatic richness not too dissimilar to a stereotypical South Australian 'Reserve'; without the hefty oak, that is. Not for the first time, an Il Briccone palate startles me with its fullish, voluptuous body bursting with blackberries and sour dark plums, which move ever so smoothly into the mouth with a soft embrace of accessible tannin and slight, sour-edged acids. It's absolutely ready to roll and devoid of excessive hardness, although there is a very faint, savoury grit and curl towards the climax, most likely emanating from its sangiovese component. Other than that, it's straight up ripe and juicy, dark and delicious McLaren Vale shiraz of the early drinking variety.

ü At the darker end of the field, but still an ideal McLaren Vale quaff. I must ask though, has the standard price of a good Australian quaffer gone up recently? By about $5? It does taste that way... Drink to 2015.

90 points

www.primoestate.com.au

FREEMAN RONDINELLA CORVINA SECCO 2007

- Hilltops, NSW

- $30

- Screwcap

- 15.0%alc

Freeman's 2004 Aged Release Secco (93pts), an Amarone inspired wine where the rondinella and corvina grapes are partially dried in a prune dehydrator, has been one of the finds of the year for me thus far. Perhaps the only thing holding back the absolutely delicious 2004 Secco from even greater heights, was the lack of a truly authoritative tannin structure, a quality which, Dr Brian Freeman happily informs me he's successfully captured in the 2007. Well, let's have a look-see then...

This is the third bottle of 2007 Secco I've had and I'm finally starting to get it. Early on, it smells thickly confected and jarringly awkward, but let it decant for at least 6 hours and watch it transform into an ever changing creature of complexity, masculine beauty and intrigue. It's at once meaty, leathery and spicy, richly ripened and a flamboyant brute, baring a gruff tone of smoky oak to add savoury grunt to its deeply aromatic, valid currant-like fruit and brown leafy scents. The palate really puts its foot to the floor, leaving any concept of subtlety behind as it deposits the imposingly firm, penetrative, spiralling and intense tannin structure Dr Freeman must surely seek with this wine. Its all-encompassing backbone takes centre stage in its youth, framing and directing its smoothly set, luscious flavours of savoury-edged blackberries, redcurrants and smoky chocolate oak with real authority and drive, allowing a sly note of aniseed to linger through the finish. Rough and rugged, it's definitely a man, and almost enough to make me turn...

ü+ A real living, breathing beast. A ringing endorsement of the benefits of decanting, time, patience and repeat consumption for wine. The 2007 Secco may not be as immediately delicious as the 2004 Aged Release (naturally), but it's perhaps even more up my alley, as it's a much more serious, longer term prospect, with a spectacular tannin structure and shape rare in Australian reds. Dr Freeman's closing in on the white light here. Cellar it. Drink 2017-2025.

94 points

www.freemanvineyards.com.au

OXFORD LANDING ESTATES CABERNET SAUVIGNON & SHIRAZ 2010

- Riverland/South Australia

- $5-$12

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

Linked by ownership to Yalumba, Oxford Landing is a Riverland based brand whose oldest, original estate plantings happen to be cabernet sauvignon, with some vines dating back over 40 years. The back label of their 2010 Cabernet Shiraz heroically states; 'vegan and vegetarian friendly', causing me to wonder if the wine displays any warm-climate meaty aspects...

Meaty aspects? Hmm... maybe. But it's not that overcooked roast meat character prevalent to overhung, sun-drenched, warm-climate red grapes, rather, it's cured meat and herbs, spicy salami even, expressed in a style perhaps more typical to pinot noir (!?). Also in the nose are simple but fruity scents of cleanly ripened blackberries and raspberries, underlining a satisfying aroma devoid of harshness or heat. Conclusively, it's more interesting and composed than one might expect from a $7 red, which echoes into a palate whose silky softness and surprising suppleness immediately disperse any preconceived stereotypes, whilst providing an almost shameful satisfaction. Its primary announcement of charmingly fresh, juicy blackberries and red plums run smoothly into a finish baring a tiny twist of acid crunch at the end, where there's just enough structure to silence the astute without deterring the quaffers. It's a big win for anyone wanting change from a tenner.

ü+ Enlivened by balance, mouthfeel and freshness, Oxford Landing's 2010 Cabernet Shiraz is just a wonderful little red. It's simple but delicious and oh so gluggable. Go on... Drink to 2013.

89 points

www.oxfordlanding.com

MAJELLA THE MUSICIAN CABERNET SHIRAZ 2010

- Coonawarra, SA

- $15-$22

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

After mirroring the fluctuations of recent South Australian vintages, Majella's lightly oaked Musician has rebounded to top form in 2010, reaffirming its position as a chieftain amongst Coonawarra's everyday drinking class.

Dark, evenly ripened and altogether smelling deeper than previous Musicians, the 2010 still buzzes in with a fragrant vitality, or a regional intensity, revealing a vivid aroma of mint soaked in cassis and raspberry juice with shades of vanilla and white pepper, indicating subtle hints of wood and Coonawarra shiraz (44%). The palate accommodates the nose, delving with a touch more concentration and darkness than usual, however, it bares a radiating brightness to its essence-like blackcurrant, dark plum and raspberry flavours, which persist along a cleverly pitched, light-medium bodied framework aided by great length and a refreshing finish emitting a particularly polished, pulsating acidity. There is a faint, valid sour-edged meatiness through the aftertaste, but it's cloaked in sumptuous chocolate/blackcurrant flavour and emancipating acids. In all respects it's a much more complete wine than other Musicians. It's immediately delicious and then some. Top value.

ü+ Majella have taken full advantage of what could be the best Coonawarra vintage for years. The 2010 Musician contains the light, bright, racy attributes we've come to love from the label, yet still manages to fill in a few holes the other wines didn't. Excellent, modern and intensely regional. A high note for the Musician. So drinkable. Drink to 2016.

91 points

www.majellawines.com.au

BURGE FAMILY WINEMAKERS OLIVE HILL MOURVEDRE SHIRAZ GRENACHE 2008

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $25

- Cork

- 15.0%alc

Higher alcohol Barossa reds aren't exactly my cup of tea, so I must credit Rick Burge, because his Olive Hill blends almost always open my wallet after tastings. Perhaps it's the 100% French oak Rick uses (10 months here), or his valued years of experience within Lyndoch, but more likely, it has something to do with Rick's humble, traditional approach and (very!) generous pricing. Rick was so pleased with the quality of his 2008 mourvedre crop that he released a special, one-off blend from the Olive Hill vineyard, using mourvedre as the dominant component (70%).

The 2008 Olive Hill MSG presents an aroma with two distinct layers. Rising up early, it's heady, lightly spiced and floral, rather intense and a shade savoury, but underneath that layer, it's fruity and buoyantly ripened, with rich, chocolately scents of blackberry, currants and cranberries residing patiently below. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the patience subsides on the palate, as its deliciously supple and silky, big red and black fruits flow with the richness and definition expected of the maker. Its whole, long, 'open' finish is deeply imprinted by the saturated, juicy, bright fruits let loose by the fore palate, as well as a beautifully integrated, mild yet truly refreshing structure beset with vibrant acids and fair tannin. The balance works flawlessly and seamlessly (without over-ripeness or hardness), in an absolutely delicious, earlier drinking Barossa style, which has been composed perfectly within the constraints of its price and its season.

ü+ The only thing I don't get about this wine (other than why the front label says MSG but the back suggests MGS), is why, as a 'special release', is it cheaper than the 'standard' 2008 Olive Hill SGM? ($28-90pts) Hold on, that's right, Rick Burge doesn't follow the crowds, he just concentrates on making great wine. And that this is. Drink to 2014.

92 points

www.burgefamily.com.au

GRANT BURGE THE HOLY TRINITY GRENACHE SHIRAZ MOURVÈDRE 2008

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $28-$42

- Cork (Diam)

- 14.5%alc

The record March heatwave of 2008 created more than a few headaches for Barossa growers, but Grant Burge was still able to fashion one of the season's real highlights for me, with his deliciously long and ripe Filsell Shiraz (93pts). From within the same 'Wines of Distinction' class as Grant Burge's Filsell comes The Holy Trinity, a blend consisting of 44% grenache, 40% shiraz and 16% mourvèdre in 2008.

On opening the 2008 Holy Trinity it smells particularly confected and loose, but after a relaxed stint of 2+ hours in the decanter it composes itself somewhat, revealing a rather plummy, fractionally jammy red fruit and blueberry fragrance marked by sweet tones and a sprinkling of cinnamon, as well as a soft coconut oak influence that doesn't exactly make things anymore savoury. Without being brilliantly bright, the palate announces itself as red; syrup-like, smooth and moderately juicy, but as it kicks into the middle section there are tastes of tar and an undesirably ripe, gritty raisin skin-like character, which morph into a finish that lacks focus, shape, persistence and stuffing. In fact, the finish is the real let down here. It's not overly harsh or taxing but its soft, lingering sweet fruit/oak is inadequately checked (for a wine of its price) by an all-too simple structure, typical of many of the Barossa's 2008s.

X There's a lot of Barossa GSMs from the more grenache friendly 2009 vintage available now, which would make a better choice than Grant Burge's straight forward, sweetly fruited and rather caked, shorter term 2008 Holy Trinity. Drink to 2014.

87 points

www.grantburgewines.com.au

FREEMAN AGED RELEASE RONDINELLA CORVINA SECCO 2004

- Hilltops, NSW

- $30

- Screwcap

- 15.0%alc

Dr Brian Freeman's Rondinella Corvina Secco is one of the most unique wines in Australia. It's a blend of two varieties typical to the Amarone styles of north Italy; rondinella and corvina, where some of the grapes are dried in a prune dehydrator to produce a rich, savoury wine with few peers in this country. Like Joseph's exquisite Moda Amarone, it's the type of wine that benefits from a few years bottle age, so an aged release (without an inflated price) is a stellar idea.

Lifted cherry, cigar-box and dried herb aromas fly from the glass of Freeman's 2004, gifting fragrance and savoury appeal to a wine whose scent is beautifully bolstered by deeper notes of plums and chocolate raisins with a delightfully rich tone of meat jus. It smells complete yet vibrant, with any suggestions of bottle age developing with harmony. Pushing along a rich, silky flow of flavour blessed by its vibrancy, the palate delivers exactly what I want from the style at this price. It's bright, flavoursome and utterly delicious; no matter who you are really, as its saturated core of plush red berry, dark plum and leathery earth flavours are cleanly balanced by a lengthening extract of glossy acids and lithe tannins, leaving the mouth refreshingly dry in an almost coffee-like fashion, with a valid undertone of juicy red meat to pass. It's wonderful, hedonistic and genuinely affordable.

ü+ Bright, sumptuous and conclusively satisfying, Freeman's 2004 Rondinella Corvina Secco makes all the right turns on its road to partially dried grape goodness. Drink to 2016.

93 points

www.freemanvineyards.com.au

PENFOLDS BIN 138 GRENACHE SHIRAZ MOURVÈDRE 2009

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $18-$35

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

Paying $17.55 for Penfolds 2009 Bin 138 actually had me feeling kinda guilty, like I was doing my bit to assist the slow destruction of Australia's wine business. Andrew Caillard MW gave the wine 96pts in an eye-catching newspaper ad, but I was more taken by the honest opinion of another Andrew.

From what's shaping up to be a good year for South Australian grenache, Penfolds has produced an archetypal Barossa GSM of immense drinkability. It's floral, joyously ripened and fruity, with an air of cinnamon stick providing a lightly spiced lift to deep set, plummy scents of blueberries, raspberries, chocolate and even tar, without a shred of over-ripeness evident. Brightness and harmony exude throughout the palate, as everything just seems to fall into place seamlessly, like melting chocolate in your mouth. Expect juicy plum, choc-raisin and raspberry flavours; expressed with ideal ripeness, and pushed along a medium-medium/full body (which is far from heavy) by gentle spices and a charmingly resistant extract of gritty tannin, causing the wine to move in a more rustic manner down the back palate, before leaving the mouth with a faint taste of sweet and sour meaty flavour. Its judgement in the vineyard and winery seems..... beyond perfection for what I paid.

ü+ As a relatively recent entrant to the Bin range (the first Bin 138 came from the 1998 vintage, although Penfolds first made an 'Old Vine' Southern Rhône blend from 1992) I'm happy to say this is the best Bin 138 I've had; and I'm not usually a big fan. It's so on the money for the label. Drink to 2021.

93 points

www.penfolds.com

D'ARENBERG THE CADENZIA GRENACHE SHIRAZ MOURVEDRE 2009

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $24-$30

- Screwcap

- 14.7%alc

I think it would be safe to say d'Arenberg is Australia's champion of grenache. Don't be surprised if one day, a super premium, single varietal grenache emerges from the brand with the distinctive red stripe.

Combining 50% grenache with 45% shiraz and 5% mourvedre, d'Arenberg's 2009 Cadenzia smells beautifully set in the glass. Expect to find a deep, soft and evenly ripened fragrance of plums, earth, blueberries, raspberries and cinnamon, expressed with fruit attention, thanks to a considerate touch of chocolate/mocha oak (10 months in used French and American) imparting no more than an edge. The palate shows a plushly flavoured, bright array of its components, with a moderately juicy imprint of sour-edged plum and cherry flavours smoothed over by regional chocolate notes and levelled by earth, before a touch of mourvedre's rustic tickle accompanies the wine into a refreshingly sour-edged yet grippy climax. An effortless, lithe structure coasts through the finish, providing true palate extension courtesy of ultra-slick, racy acids and an extremely fine cut of coarse tannin.

ü+ The 2009 Cadenzia is a real wine drinker's red. Delicious and hard to fault, it disappears before your very eyes, although its smooth and seamless balance of bright varietal fruits should see it age with grace. Drink to 2017.

91 points

www.darenberg.com.au

CULLEN MANGAN 2009

(Malbec/Petit Verdot/Merlot)

- Margaret River, WA

- $45

- Screwcap

- 12.5%alc

Cullen's red Mangan is one of those unique, ultra-special Australian wines that makes me wonder; 'why aren't there more wines like this in Australia?' Grown at the bio-dynamically managed Mangan vineyard at Wilyabrup, the 2009 is a magnificently styled blend of malbec (63%), petit verdot (27%) and merlot (10%), aged in predominantly used French oak for 12 months.

Perfumed and floral in a charmingly graceful manner, Cullen's 2009 Mangan puts up an airy, spicy whiff of violets underpinned by a right bag of crushed berries; both black and purple. Despite its gentle facade the wine reveals further, abundant aromatic suggestions, courtesy of a savoury interweaving of earthy tones, vanilla oak and dried leaves, with the latter reflecting something browner, earthier and less sharp than the Margaret River's typical green. Its gentle nature flows through to the palate, which is barely medium in weight yet wonderfully soft, supple and blessed with the under-spoken yet attractive presence of a passing princess. It's packed with an effortless, unforced movement of blackberries, plums and mulberries touched by spicy cedar and underlined by damp soils, with a hint of merlot derived olive to emerge, but the way it travels down the palate, with flawless progression, is a real highlight, and one which wouldn't be possible were it not for an ultra-fine, lithe structure laid in place by particularly clean, natural acids and svelte tannins.

ü+ Yet another new-age Australian wine for the rest of the world to wake up to. Cullen's 2009 Mangan is not heavy; it's beautiful in its suppleness and structural elements, and I know it may be an over used term, but it seems a truly natural, unforced wine. Drink to 2021.

94 points

www.cullenwines.com.au

SALTRAM WINEMAKER'S SELECTION SHIRAZ TEMPRANILLO 2008

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $50

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

It's readily apparent that hot, dry, challenging seasons like 2008 are bound to become a common occurrence in the future of the Barossa Valley (my apologies in regards to what happened in the region on Tuesday night!), in which case, winemakers would do well to invest in new styles to tackle the ever changing climatic conditions. If Shavaughn Wells' 2008 Winemaker's Selection is anything to go by, then shiraz tempranillo blends look a commendable choice. It's a 65/35 blend, aged in 100% French oak (25% new) for 10 months.

Throwing up heady scents of dusty, exotic spices and violet florals, Saltram's 2008 immediately proclaims its tempranillo influence (after a stint in the decanter that is), which is beautifully beefed up by a deeply set array of classically Barossan, old-vine shiraz fruit aromas; licorice/aniseed, black plums and forest berries, all meshed with melted chocolate. Smooth, silky and downright sensuous, its palate presents an evenly styled length of well ripened, harmonious flavours that are admittedly much more shiraz-like than tempranillo, but it's altogether rich and wholesome in the truest regional sense. As its deep flavours are lifted through the back palate by an agreeably lithe, stringy acid structure beset with firm tannins, a rather ripe hint of spicy date rears its head, but its balanced finish remains undisrupted; composed and regal, with not a hair out of place.

ü+ So, so close to perfect. A touch more savoury accent, spice and tempranillo tickle and it would've been there. I wonder whether it was held back by the sumptuous nature of Barossa reds, the hot 2008 season, or something completely different altogether. My mind is keenly tuned to the future on this one. Drink to 2018.

94 points

www.saltramwines.com.au

ROSEMOUNT MOUNTAIN BLUE SHIRAZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006

- Mudgee, NSW

- $37-$53

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

It's such a shame that what could be the Mudgee region's flag bearing wine, Rosemount Mountain Blue, lies in a tangled mess of corporate ownership within one of Australia's least fashionable wine brands. I couldn't help but smile recently when an independent retailer told me; "I get all these guys coming in with black Wynns shirts but if I stock Rosemount they'd hit me in the face with it." Looking beyond these points, the Mountain Blue is actually capable of a standard equal to the very best shiraz cabernet sauvignons.

Brought to life by a complex unison of gravelly earth and boot polish aromas, the 2006 Mountain Blue seems so classically Australian in its old fashioned shiraz cabernet nose. With shiraz clearly in the driver's seat it puts up a bright, evenly ripened yet proudly meaty fragrance of dark currant fruits tickled by light, airy spices; with oak playing a heady yet smoothly courteous role, possibly more suggestive of American wood than French. These aromatic features transfer almost perfectly into its flavour profile, which courses along a very smooth, utterly seamless medium-bodied palate coated by rich chocolate oak and completed with lingering, sour-edged meaty aspects and a surprisingly lithe, fair structure that speaks more of zippy acids than coarse tannin.

ü The 2006 Mountain Blue seems a very good, methodically conceived Aussie red; more than perfect for red meat dishes, but it just lacks that something special in the way of structure, length and finesse. Ye olde warm climate Mudgee can definitely pull this style off though. Drink to 2018.

92 points

www.rosemountestate.com

WYNNS CABERNET SHIRAZ MERLOT 2008

- Coonawarra, SA

- $10-$21

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

It's true, the Cab/Shiraz/Merlot has traditionally been my least favourite Wynns red (haven't tried that Green Label Cabernet yet though...), but the quality of Coonawarra's 2008 vintage tells me now is as good a time as any to give it another shot.

Deep, dark and rich, the nose of Wynns' 2008 CSM shows 3 layers of aroma as I see it (or smell it). Initially, a punchy presence of dark plums and dates rise to the fore with plenty of gusto, cloaking a middle section reminiscent of smoky old cedar and dried eucalyptus leaf, before spicy touches of clove and white pepper tickle the high tones to conclude. Smooth, rich and practically creamy throughout, the palate is highlighted by a depth and persistence of flavour, as well as an effortless balance I've never encountered from the label before. Luscious dark berry fruit flavours pump through its heart, with a glossy extract of smoothly ripened tannins lifting it to a lengthy finish underlined by notes of cedar and herb. It's very polished throughout and almost rounded; to the point where it could use more edge, but for its low-end price there's absolutely nothing to cry about here.

ü+ On discount, Wynns' 2008 Cab/Shiraz/Merlot is a great value Australian red, pure and simple. Drink to 2018.

90 points

www.wynns.com.au

TORBRECK CUVÉE JUVENILES 2009

(Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro)

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $24-$33

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

One of the Barossa's highest profile producers, Torbreck, is an internationally recognised name well known for rather expensive, ultra-ripe, generously oaked reds packaged with distinctive white labels and visible corks. A unique wine within Torbreck's range is the Cuvée Juveniles; a relatively affordable, unoaked red with a coloured label and a screwcap closure.

I'm beginning to really appreciate unwooded Barossa GSMs for their ability to be cracked and enjoyed immediately, and Torbreck's 2009 Cuvée Juveniles instantly fits the bill, with a lightly spiced fragrance of liqueur cherries, blueberries, dates, cinnamon and spirit that strikes an aromatic lift and warmth from first pour. Its palate touches the edge of ideal ripeness without showing any baked fruit, allowing a pleasing burst of smooth, deep, dark, rich and pure GSM flavour to progress in a somewhat coarse fashion, with lingering, bountiful warm fruit notes interspersed by a faint spiciness and ever-so gentle, fairy floss-like tannins. A kind acidity helps hold the wine together without domineering, yet it's a generous dose of warm, Barossa sun-drenched, sweet/dark fruit flavours that defines not just the finish, but also this wine as a whole. So if a generously ripened Barossa red isn't your thing, then caveat emptor.

O Probably exactly what you'd expect from an unoaked Torbreck GSM. It's rich, heavily fruited, lightly spiced and dark, without a shred of interfering oak to cloak its substantial fruit. However, there are better, more affordable unwooded GSMs out there, but like its rivals, the Torbreck makes for perfect BBQ fodder. Drink to 2013.

89 points

www.torbreck.com

WYNNS V&A LANE CABERNET SHIRAZ 2008

- Coonawarra, SA

- $32-$44

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Wynns has access to a rather substantial 44 ha of mature vineyards within the V&A Lane district, located smack-bang in the middle of Coonawarra. The first, impressive releases from this sub-region come in the way of a 2008 Shiraz (92pts) and a 2008 Cabernet Shiraz.

Notably closed on first sniff, the V&A Cabernet Shiraz slowly opens to an aroma of spicy vanilla oak overlying a concealed depth of red berry/blackcurrant, mulberry and plum notes with lashings of licorice and violet. Medium-bodied and elegant in the modern Wynns style, its firm palate presents initially subdued forest berry flavours cloaked in polished vanilla oak, but the wine expands with waves of grippy, tightening and grainy tannins, revealing a wonderful length of rich, saturated flavour counter-balanced by a fine-grained dustiness.

ü+ A skillfully blended, long-term Coonawarra red which should take years to unravel and show its best. Drink 2018-2028.

94 points

www.wynns.com.au

BLUE PYRENEES ESTATE RED 2006

(Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Shiraz)

- Pyrenees, VIC

- $32-$40

- Screwcap (Stelvin-Lux)

- 14.5%alc

Established in 1963 by French liquor icon Remy Martin, Blue Pyrenees (formerly Chateau Remy) was originally set up with intentions of brandy production, before shifting its focus to sparkling wines (when brandy fell out of favour with Australian palates), and then finally onto table wine. Today, with French ownership long gone, Blue Pyrenees' flagship is the Estate Red.

Combining cabernet sauvignon (51%) with merlot (35%) and shiraz (14%), the 2006 Estate Red announces a radiant, minty perfume of cassis, plum and blueberry aromas lifted by notes of red licorice, polished cedar/vanilla oak and eucalyptus leaf. Smooth and juicy yet deliciously fine-grained throughout, its palate packs a vividly fruited presence of explosive flavour backed by a firm coverage of slightly coarse, yet well ripened tannins. It finishes long with excellent balance, focus and vitality; revealing rich, persistent flavours defined by suggestions of spearmint, raw cedar and a slight sour-edged meatiness.

ü+ Blue Pyrenees has worked hard to re-establish themselves amongst Victoria's top echelon, a point exemplified by this beautifully composed, deliciously ripened and well made red blend. Watch this space. Drink to 2021.

93 points

www.bluepyrenees.com.au

WATER WHEEL MEMSIE 2007

(Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec/Petit Verdot)

- Bendigo, VIC

- $11-$19

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

Although their profile may be significantly smaller than some of their direct competitors, Water Wheel's position as a leading producer of high quality Australian quaffing reds remains undoubted. The classic Bendigo traits of rich, generous flavours and bountiful depth are the descriptors for which Water Wheel has become synonymous, but on occasion these wines can also display true cellaring potential.

Ripe and fractionally jammy, Water Wheel's shiraz dominant Memsie (70%) shows meaty plum and red cherry aromas backed by notes of white pepper, cinnamon and seasoned oak. Entering with a sumptuous explosion of vibrant, juicy fruit, its fruit forward and sweet edged palate announces a myriad of bright forest berry flavours with a soft, refreshingly acidic structure marked by quiet tannins, a deft touch of light spice, and a lingering sour-edged meatiness to finish.

ü For me, Water Wheel's reds tend to fall into two categories; brilliantly quaffable or surprisingly age-worthy. The brightly flavoured and uncomplicated 2007 Memsie certainly falls into the former. Drink to 2012.

88 points

www.waterwheelwine.com

MAJELLA THE MUSICIAN CABERNET SHIRAZ 2009

- Coonawarra, SA

- $13-$20

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

In just a few vintages Majella's Musician blend has set a new benchmark for Coonawarra quaffers. Part of its success is due to minimal oak handling in the winery (usually 3-4 months), a practice which allows Majella's expressive regional fruit to shine through in a glorious, radiant manner.

Glowing red/purple, the 2009 Musician literally blows away uplifting aromas of minty blackcurrants, dark plums, chocolate and vanilla, with all the richness and generosity expected of the maker. Soft and gentle on entry, its medium-bodied palate reveals a fluffy expression of vibrantly fruited regional character, before finishing generously long and dry with lingering nuances of warm, sweet fruit and a tight hold of vivid acids complemented by just enough tannins to balance.

ü Although not terribly complex, deep or concentrated, this is brighter than the sun's backside and just perfect for early drinking. Drink to 2014.

89 points

www.majellawines.com.au

CHARLES MELTON NINE POPES 2007

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $45-$70

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

Charles Melton's Nine Popes is recognised as Australia's benchmark interpretation of a southern Rhone blend. With heat, drought, a compressed vintage and low yields, 2007 proved a real headache for South Australian growers, but some old-vine grenache styles provided real highlights from both McLaren Vale and the Barossa.

Presenting a deep, dark crimson colour, the 2007 Nine Popes opens to a vividly ripened, rich and somewhat meaty nose of raisins and plum fruits smoothed over by sweet vanilla oak, causing it to appear a bit oaky at this stage and in need of more time to integrate. Incredibly dense and plump, its weighty palate pumps out a smorgasbord of bright fruit flavours, revealing raspberry, rhubarb, plums, currants and game meats with a sprinkling of cinnamon stick character. There's an even coverage of fair tannins, glossy acids and an expansive sweetness emanating from its deeply fruited core, but the sweetness seems to be imparted more from sweet, smoky oak as opposed to confectionery Barossa grenache.

O This very youthful Nine Popes is presently too sweetly fruited and too sweetly oaked to genuinely thrill me. It does possess real weight and depth though, so given the choice I'd sit some aside for a while in the hope of encouraging complex savoury development and integration. Drink 2013-2015.

91 points

www.charlesmeltonwines.com.au

DEVIL'S LAIR FIFTH LEG RED 2008

(Shiraz/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon)

- Western Australia

- $11-$22

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

A Foster's rep told me on the weekend the 2008 Fifth Leg red is sourced exclusively from the Margaret River, however, I'm not entirely sure I believed her. There have been times when the Fifth Leg red has been labelled as Margaret River, but recent releases have carried the broader Western Australia tag (such as the 2007 which I know was sourced from at least both Margaret River and Geographe). Still, it's all quite impertinent for a $12 wine, isn't it?

The 2008 Fifth Leg is leafy, but perhaps more like Margaret River-shiraz tomato bush than Margaret River-cabernet tobacco leaf, with thinly veiled scents of cherry and blackcurrant partnered by a sniff of spice and an oak influence which sits slightly above its fruit at this young stage. Medium in body, the fractionally loose and hollow yet soft and approachable palate contains youthful, vibrant berry and spicy red cherry flavours touched by creamy oak. Its long finish is drawn out significantly more by lively acids than tannin, which allows a faint metallic edge to make itself apparent at the final climax.

O Compared to the superb, finer 2005 (91pts) this is much more of a softer, quaffing style WA blend and a reasonably good one at that (especially for $12). Just add commercial grade pizza. Drink to 2013.

88 points

www.fifthleg.com.au