ROCKFORD BLACK SHIRAZ 2010 disgorgement

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $50-$120

- Cork

- 13.5%alc

Joseph or Black Shiraz? My mind shudders at the thought of picking a favourite sparkling red. I love the Joseph for its ability to deliver an elegantly styled, complex combination of maturity and freshness upon release practically every year (although my first bottle of the Langton's assisted 2011 disgorgement left me decidedly underwhelmed - fingers crossed for the second bottle), but at its very best, especially with a few years under its belt, I feel Rockford's ultra-rare beast reigns supreme.

Rockford's 2010 disgorgement is an essential sparkling shiraz, depicting true harmony of its schizophrenic nature. Finding the aromatic middle ground between sweet, fruity and savoury, as well as fresh and complex, it boasts an alluring depth of menthol tinged plums, blackberries and blueberries, risen by savoury whiffs of tobacco and smoky mocha/chocolate oak, while smelling so quintessentially Rockford all the way. Its palate bares the smooth balance and beautifully controlled, richly ripened fruit of a top-flight Barossa shiraz, as it oozes a wonderfully seamless and concentrated composition of savoury edged plum and dark berry flavours, which become more complex and appealling towards its fine, fleshy finish of cherry cola and sour-edged meaty notes. A dry, powdery backbone of ultra-fine tannins holds everything in place firmly, effectively ticking the last box for sparkling red perfection. I'd ideally give it another 3-5 years, if that's even possible...

ü+ Pure hedonistic joy. A signal to the world flaunting the showmanship of old-school Australian pride. My sparkling red pendulum has definitively swung full tilt back to the Barossa. The king is back baby! The king is back!!! Drink to 2017.

96 points

www.rockfordwines.com.au

BROWN BROTHERS PATRICIA PINOT NOIR & CHARDONNAY BRUT 2005

- King Valley, VIC

- $36-$47

- Cork

- 13.0%alc

Perhaps it's because of their commitment to an enormous and affordable range hallmarked by diversity, but Brown Brothers' reserve level Patricia wines don't seem to get the recognition they might otherwise receive. Of particular merit is the vintage dated Patricia sparkling, which must go pretty close to knocking on the door of Australia's top ten renditions of the genre.

Helloooo... alive, complex and smitten by a wicked whiff of dry crispbread overlying honey ice cream and almond biscotti notes, then further enlivened by a springy lift of sour raspberries and grapefruit, the 2005 Patricia shows plenty of development and plenty of style, with all the balancing freshness I desire. Through the mouth it's simultaneously creamy, supple and crackly - incredibly crackly actually - as it pops like pop rock candy all the way down its full length of creamy honey biscuit flavour. It's all strung in by stringy lemony acids, working the wine into a superbly balanced, long and dry finish that's firmly stamped by a bitter/savoury mineral twist and a lingering impression of true finesse. It's top shelf Aussie fizz and it's in top form, right now. Ever wished you were drinking a magnum?

ü+ Much like Hardys' spectacular 2000 Sir James Tumbarumba (95pts), Brown Brothers' 2005 Patricia goes a long way to prove Tasmania isn't the be all and end all of Australia's elite sparkling class. Beautiful. Drink to 2013.

94 points

www.brownbrothers.com.au

HEEMSKERK CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR 2007

- Coal River Valley, TAS

- $48-$65

- Cork (Diam)

- 12.0%alc

The reinvented Heemskerk brand marks a serious attempt by Treasury Wine Estates to move into high end Tasmanian wine. At present, the Heemskerk range constitutes a southern Tasmanian collection of single region riesling, chardonnay and pinot noir, as well as a new challenger to Australia's super premium sparkling class. From packaging to palate, these wines are looking pretty smart.

Practically as foamy as a bubble bath at Hugh Hefner's place, with a really racy, minute line of bead and fine lace, the Heemskerk begins its display with a pale, youthful colour, depicting a typically classy visual entrance. Its nose is real steely and tight, giving away little in its infancy. There are quiet suggestions of spiced pear, minerals, hazelnut and lemon cake, which precede a palate with more mineral focus than some sparkling mineral waters I've had. It's undoubtedly youthful and tight, with a crystal-clear expression of crisp apples, grapefruits and strawberry driven down a very strict line of tightly coiled flavour, working its way into a bone dry finish marked by brisk effervescence, lingering citric/mineral aspects and a tangy note of sherbet. Its crisp backbone and understated elegance through mineral complexity are fine, sizing it up well as an aperitif, but personally, I was looking for something a bit more outrageous. Patience is definitively recommended.

O TWE Arras? I don't think so. Aside from the obvious, in that it's much younger than any Arras I've had, it appears to be constructed very differently, relying more on restraint, mineral focus and freshness, and altogether looking more like a rather expensive Australian party starter. Time will tell how the two compare. Drink 2015-2019.

92 points

www.heemskerk.com.au

JACOB'S CREEK RESERVE CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR 2008

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $12-$23

- Cork (Diam)

- 12.0%alc

My first review from the newly branded Jacob's Creek's Reserve range wasn't exactly a ringing endorsement of the brand's switch to single region wines, but happily, the second one is. Taking things up a notch from the very credible 2007 (90pts), the 2008 Reserve sparkling displays outstanding value for money once again.

A very gentle, elegant fragrance of understated complexity adorns the fragrance of the Jacob's Creek Reserve, as it opens to a clean and classy, floral aroma of buttered white bread, white pears and vanilla, risen by scents of ginger and cinnamon in a fashion that conclusively defies its often discounted price. Charmingly lean and dry, its palate chisels out a foamy effervescence bound by crisp acids, ensconcing a refreshingly mineral driven flavour profile of green apples, lemons and grapefruit trailed by emerging notes of lemon zest and light, savoury spice. For a moment the whole package seems so perfect and almost surreal, as its finish grips to the mouth with a clingy, steely tightness, but then, it just doesn't persist with the authoritative length of better wines. It's a minor quibble though, effectively brought out by someone expecting too much.

ü+ Flaunting some very clever, beautifully conceived winemaking, the 2008 Jacob's Creek Reserve is an ambitious little sparkling that initiates promising signs of true greatness, but just falls short. It's a dry, tight, cheap aperitif, made right in my own personal eyes-to-the-side style. Drink to 2013.

90 points

www.jacobscreek.com.au

CURRENCY CREEK ESTATE PINOT NOIR CHARDONNAY RESERVE BRUT

- Currency Creek, SA

- $13-$19

- Zork Spk

- 12.5%alc

Currency Creek is a relatively humble South Australian wine region, found some 80km south of Adelaide near the popular tourist town of Goolwa, or about 50km east of Brian Croser's Parawa vineyard in the Southern Fleurieu. Ballast Stone would have to be the best known producer in the region, although a lot of their production comes from nearby McLaren Vale.

Quite simple and sweet-edged, Currency Creek Estate's sparkling rosé reveals a bronzey fragrance of big strawberries and brandied cherries with a hint of honey stick. It's decisively pinot dominant but it lacks outright freshness and complexity, while its stylistic statement doesn't exactly adhere to my personal taste. The palate shows similarly simple, sweet edges to its well filled-out, Christmas cake-like rendition of liqueur cherry flavour, with a trace of vanilla trailing along for comfort, but then, it finishes surprisingly fine, tight and brisk, with a direct line of effervescence and acids marching towards a neatly defined vanishing point, marked by a fizzy, tangy climax that almost turns the wine into my favour - but not quite. Unfortunately, the harmony of its elements never really settles and it's just not my kind of aperitif. It's too sweet and edgy.

O Okay, but not enough finesse. Cellar door spesh? Local pub list? The girls on race day? Whatever the market, it's not my type of fizz. Drink now.

86 points

www.currencycreekwines.com.au

STARVEDOG LANE CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR PINOT MEUNIER 2004

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $20-$30

- Cork

- 12.5%alc

Alongside Tyrrell's and McWilliam's, the wines of Hardys would have to be some of the biggest show ponies around, as many flaunt their achievements like an old rich guy with a blonde bombshell. However, as much as I'd hate to admit it, most of the wines I've had with a complete gold necklace on the outside, turn out to be pretty good on the inside. Chalk one up for the show judges!

Starvedog Lane's sparkling isn't just something of an Adelaide Hills benchmark, it's also one of the best value vintage fizzers in Australia. The 2004 reinforces this point, with its crisp, lively nose combining character with clarity. There's a scent of white peach inside, joined by impressions of white bread, oyster shell and a slight richness, with a fine, high tone of ginger providing great appeal. Mineral complexity and an expansive effervescence highlight its pure, clean palate, which hits all the right spots along the way, imparting grapefruit and nashi pears for taste, tight citric acids for vibrant, stringy structure, and a persistent, steely dryness punctuated by mineral tones for lasting impression. Its flavour is notably clear, or lean even, but for a sparkling so cheap there's a lot going on in the mouth, and in every direction.

ü+ What a great pair this makes alongside Hardys' 2004 Oomoo Sparkling Shiraz (92pts). Both wines offer delicious immediate drinking, or the opportunity to grow further with a little more bottle age. Ed Carr, take a bow! Drink to 2014.

91 points

www.starvedoglane.com.au

HARDYS OOMOO SPARKLING SHIRAZ 2004

- Clare Valley, SA

- $15-$25

- Cork

- 14.0%alc

If you happen to be a thrifty sparkling red aficionado who's tried Leasingham's terrific 2004 Classic Clare Sparkling Shiraz, then you'll be happy to know there's another, cheaper 2004 Clare Valley sparkling shiraz currently available from the Hardys group. On a more personal note, I'm not sure I appreciate the way Oomoo has spread its wings so far beyond McLaren Vale now, but the value for money in this wine is nothing to sneer at.

Paying homage to its superb vintage, the 2004 Oomoo Sparkling Shiraz lets loose a glowing array of purple plum, mulberry and cherry aromas, all lifted with radiant vitality for its age. There are sly hints of soft spice, shaved chocolate and a developing leathery edge too, which coat its primary fruits with savoury grace. Brightly flavoured and fresh as a daisy, the palate hits all the right spots within its context. It pumps out a deliciously medium-bodied, smooth and somewhat elegant arrangement of vivid varietal fruits with earthy, aniseedy undertones, complemented by a fair caress of finesse throughout the movement. Wrapped up by a fine conclusion which tightens right on cue, its finish is properly balanced and dry, presenting a wonderful persistence of sweet fruit and vanilla oak, which eventually give way to farewell notes of cola and dry leaf. A little bit of time and air only enlightens the experience.

ü+ $16 and 7 years old already? I'll be damned! Hardys' 2004 Oomoo is as good a sub-$20 sparkling red as I can recall. I'd love to see it in another 3-5 years, it's that good. Drink to 2016.

92 points

www.hardys.com.au

DAL ZOTTO PUCINO PROSECCO NV

- King Valley, VIC

- $18-$23

- Crown Seal

- 11.5%alc

Made using the charmat method and capped with a crown seal, Dal Zotto's Pucino Prosecco makes a seriously sophisticated selection as a $20 party starter. At a recent comparative tasting (at my house!), Dal Zotto's NV came across as a much finer, drier aperitif than the more readily available, perhaps more crowd pleasing Brown Brothers Prosecco (86pts).

With an un-bottle fermented touch that puts up quite a fizzy, foamy head on first pour (it's less noticeable from there though), Dal Zotto's NV presents itself as rather simple yet attractively clean and clear on the nose, displaying aromas of crisp green apples and lemon rind with the faintest touch of something savoury; sourdough crisp bread maybe. Its palate continues along similarly simplistic lines, however, it expresses it with utter joy, clarity and complete satisfaction to the drinker. Possibly a fraction forward, it remains particularly soft to touch, in a deliciously foamy, lifted manner, as it unravels 'clean enough to eat off' flavours of white pear and lemon juice with just a hint of vanilla ice cream, backed by enough refreshingly citric induced dryness and strewn together by more than enough balance, to compensate for any lack of complexity or forthright assertion. It's one of those wines where, you should just drink it, and forget about its intricacies. Whoops - I'm contradicting myself here...

ü+ In one word; delicious. I only know one retailer (and 1 bar) in Adelaide that sells Dal Zotto's Pucino Prosecco NV, and for $20 each, I can see their stock moving faster than The Flash in a breakdancing contest. Drink now.

90 points

www.dalzotto.com.au

DAL ZOTTO L'IMMIGRANTE PROSECCO 2008

- King Valley, VIC

- $32-$36

- Crown Seal

- 11.5%alc

Dal Zotto's L'Immigrante is arguably Australia's finest achievement to date with the Italian inspired sparkling wine, prosecco. For the more budget conscious, Dal Zotto now also make a deliciously fresh and foamy, apple and pear laden Pucino Prosecco NV (90pts) for around $20.

As to be expected of the label, there's a bit more interest in here than other Australian prosecco. It shows a balance of sweet and savoury on the nose, opening to a clean scent of Amaretto entwined with white pears and flowers, but it's on the palate that the L'Immigrante really shines. Beautifully soft and foamy on entry, it literally breaks through with wonderful length and a linear tightness, gripping and directing the wine in a multitude of directions whilst providing spectacular shape. Within its shapely confines lie a delightfully fresh array of mineral and slate infused white-flesh fruit flavours, which finish very dry yet savoury and funky, with a lingering note of sweet biscuit passed over by particularly crisp citric acids. Conclusively, it's absolutely delicious and downright flawless within its nature.

ü+ Previously I've seen prosecco as a style best suited to bolstering and diversifying Australia's $20 sparkling class, but now, I think it's capable of much, much more. More please! Drink to 2013.

93 points

www.dalzotto.com.au

CROSER 1994 (Magnum)

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $60-$90? (Gift)

- Cork

- 12.5%alc

I was lucky enough to receive a magnum of 1994 Croser from some very dear friends of mine, who told me it was recently purchased from Petaluma's cellar door. Honestly, I wouldn't have thought a 17 year old Croser would be at its freshest right now, but if it's for sale at Bridgewater Mill (a first rate sparkling wine storage facility) and it's a magnum...

A faint yellow/gold tinge adorns the predominantly pale-straw coloured 1994 Croser. Although it lacks foam, bead and lace in the glass, it opens to an attractively smoky fragrance of creamy lemon citrus, brine and vanilla; altogether suggesting it's far from dead yet. Its palate is undeniably alive, mineral touched and shows hints of sour cream from start to finish, with a carefully laid, evolved note of brine marked by a slight honeyed richness and graced by further touches of white pear and a tangy citric structure that invokes a soft, foamy effervescence, before it tightens gently down the final stretch. In essence, all these features add up to an evenly developed, ideally composed 17 year old Adelaide Hills sparkling.

ü+ Well, slap me down and call me silly, because Croser's 1994 magnum is fresh, complex and an absolute joy to drink. A real surprise. Drink now.

93 points

www.petaluma.com.au

JACOB'S CREEK CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR BRUT CUVÉE

- South Eastern Australia

- $7-$15

- Cork

- 11.5%alc

Although I've now converted to Jacob's Creek's Blanc de Blancs, I still hold a high level of respect for their standard NV as one of Australia's more palpable house fizzers. For a relatively small increase in price, Jacob's Creek's vintage dated reserve release, which is now sourced exclusively from the Adelaide Hills, makes for pretty smart drinking as well.

Scents of lemon/grapefruit and white flower announce the Jacob's Creek's nose, with a lifted thread of dry biscuit aromas adding much needed interest to what is otherwise a straight forward, yet inoffensive fragrance. Tidy effervescence as well as a moderately zippy thrust of flavour run through the palate, which houses a relatively simple concoction of tangy, lemony dry biscuit flavour. A bitter-edged aspect, not too unlike grapefruit, rears its head at the end, providing both lasting impression and a pleasing point of punctuation. It's simplicity personified, in an all too perfect and manufactured sense.

ü Sure, it probably lacks the freshness and zing of the Blanc de Blancs, but there's still nothing wrong with Jacob's Creek's standard NV for under $10. Drink now.

87 points

www.jacobscreek.com.au

COLDSTREAM HILLS PINOT NOIR CHARDONNAY 2004

- Yarra Valley, VIC

- $29-$35

- Cork

- 12.0%alc

If Tasmania's my first port of call for Australian sparklings (which it is), then the Yarra Valley would go pretty close to being my second. The Yarra delivered a trio of top class fizzers from 2004, under the labels of Yarrabank (93pts), Coldstream Hills (92pts from Feb '09) and the late release Yarra Burn Blanc de Blancs (93pts).

Still a youthful looking pale-straw colour, Coldstream Hills' 2004 presents a fresh nose scented with gently honeyed citrus fruits, white nectarines, nougat and creamed nuts in an evenly balanced fashion. Its aroma is fresh and invigorating - sheer delight really. Very creamy and rather sumptuous on entry, yet distinctly medium in weight, its palate pushes through a clean and clear mouthful of mineral and brine flavours with a soft, foamy finish framed by a surprisingly stringy cut of grapefruit-like acids. It could use a bit more effervescent tightness really, as its finish seems fractionally loose and fades away somewhat in structural intensity, but its good length of creamy, texture driven flavour remains a plus.

O Coldstream Hills' 2004 still blooms with the sexy fragrant qualities that made me fall in love with it 2 years ago, but it is starting to look a little loose through the back palate now, so I'd drink up. Drink now.

90 points

www.coldstreamhills.com.au

STEFANO LUBIANA BRUT

- Southern Tasmania

- $29-$40

- Cork (Diam)

- 12.5%alc

Although his range now includes some of Tasmania's finest pinot noir, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, it was with sparkling wine production that Steve Lubiana first cut his teeth on the island state. The Stefano Lubiana Brut remains one of Australia's best non-vintage styles.

An attractive note of white chocolate coated almonds announce the aromatic arrival of Stefano Lubiana's Brut, which is quite lively and fresh in its aperitif-style make-up, thanks to further suggestions of zingy citrus sherbet and light butter adding fragrant, cocktail party-esque appeal. Its very tight, crisp palate reveals a salty lick of oyster shell and granny smith apple flavour with grapefruit-like acids, driven along by a pulsating, mineral thread which makes its presence felt strongest through a zippy, drying finish marked additionally by a sly note of white cheese/leesy complexity. The only downside is the palate's a touch lean, especially through the middle section, where a fraction more richness and textural interest would've aided its fine structural elements immeasurably.

ü There's so much to like here as an aperitif style Tasmanian fizzer, but, call me boring, because 9 times out of 10 I'd prefer the ever reliable Jansz for $10 less. Drink now.

90 points

www.slw.com.au

RED HILL ESTATE BLANC DE BLANC 2005

- Mornington Peninsula, VIC

- $17-$35

- Cork

- 13.2%alc

As much as I appreciate the more traditional pinot noir/chardonnay (and of course, pinot meunier) sparkling combination, my eyes always light up a fraction when they see the words 'Blanc de Blancs'.

Quite unfortunately, Red Hill Estate's 2005 seems rather evolved, flat and lacking vitality throughout. Its nose echoes oyster shells, caramel and brioche in a strangely compelling, sweetish style, but it's the palate that has me wanting more, a lot more. Smooth and round yes, but it's about as loose as the elastic on an old pair of underpants. There's a trace of granny smith apple flavour in there, but I'm going to refer to Tim Cohen who had a similarly lackluster experience with a 2005 Blanc de Blanc here, because this wine is also dominated by a distasteful briney/salty aspect, with a speck of citric acidity barely evident for the optimistic explorers.

X I can only hope this was a bad bottle. In cases like this, I can only call it as I taste it, as I paid for it. I do note that the current 2006 vintage is $35 on the winery website, whilst I paid a mere $17 for this at old mate Man Durphy's... Drink now.

82 points

www.redhillestate.com.au

JANSZ PREMIUM VINTAGE CUVÉE 2005

- Pipers River, TAS

- $36-$45

- Cork

- 12.5%alc

The quality of Jansz Tasmania's entry level sparkling wines have been so good over recent years, that I've often overlooked the brand's premier releases. This oversight was given a serious shake-up recently, when I tasted the spectacular 2002 Late Disgorged Jansz (95pts).

The complexity of Jansz's 2005 Vintage perplexes me. Its character laden fragrance is seriously funked up and wild; lashing out with rebelling notes of tangerine citrus woven through cream, toasted nuts and brioche, but there's also a riper, richer fruit component better resembling white nectarine, as well as an ethereal aromatic cocktail of oyster shell and melted white chocolate to behold. Its palate is very rich, luxuriantly creamy and round, with a full-on expanse of soft, clean flavours likened to mineral, cream and citrus augmented by oyster shell notes, with this fishy funkiness becoming more apparent in its transition to a more savoury, complex finish. Thankfully, it tightens through the finish in a structured, shell-like fashion, conceived more through tingly acids than refreshing effervescence. Although creamy and foamy, the effervescence could use a lot more sparkle and definition for my tastes.

O Round, clean, foamy and complex, but I'd loved to of seen more effervescent tightness, length and finesse. For me, the 2005 Vintage Jansz has everything the non-vintage release needs to be a spectacular wine, without the attributes that make the standard wine such a belter. Drink to 2012.

91 points

www.jansztas.com

JOSEPH SPARKLING RED 2010 disgorgement

- McLaren Vale, SA/Various, AUS

- $56-$80

- Cork

- 13.5%alc

After a couple of so-so releases of Black Shiraz (or at least as I've seen it), the Joseph now sits firmly as my most prized sparkling red. Joe Grilli's tall-bottled icon is something of a super cuvée, combining every shiraz Joe's made since the 1980's with a random selection of matured Australian reds from the 1960's and 70's, a hogshead of Joseph's Moda Cabernet Merlot and some fine Australian fortified wines as dosage. Just thinking of this process causes me to envision Joe as a crazed alchemist, cackling away whilst conjuring up his sinister brew.

Immediately proclaiming the combination of maturity and freshness I ultimately seek in sparkling reds, Joseph's spectacular 2010 disgorgement scatters leafy/herbal aromas over charry oak, tobacco, dark cherries and perhaps even animal hide (dry, not damp if that makes any sense), with its collection of fragrant savoury tones communicating complexity and masculinity. The downright delicious palate balances medium weight with imposingly rich, savoury flavours and a very dry structure, as it forages into the mouth with wonderful elegance and complexity, meshing dusty tannins with tickly effervescence to draw out an exceptionally well directed, very long and fine finish, beset with lingering notes of dry herbs and licorice at the climax. I love its savoury elegance, richness and intense dryness.

ü+ Now here's a wine to convert doubters of sparkling reds. It's difficult for me to see how even the most discerning drinker wouldn't like this. Quite literally, it's got it all. Yes! Drink to 2018.

95 points

www.primoestate.com.au

ASHTON HILLS SPARKLING SHIRAZ 2002

- Clare Valley, SA

- $40-$47

- Cork

- 13.0%alc

An air of mystery surrounds the front label of this sparkling shiraz, which mentions neither maker nor its region of origin. There is however, a hint on the back label as to where the wine might originate; 'Made from the grapes of dry grown, low yielding vines averaging 70 years of age with nearly half planted in 1893.' Followers of Stephen George should be familiar with the site in question.

A strong whiff of licorice casts its presence throughout this freshly scented 2002 Sparkling Shiraz, with deeper notes of currants, black plums and shoe polish lifted by a resonant fragrance of heady, smoky oak imparted from its 4 years of maturation in old oak. Fans of sparkling reds will love its palate, which is dark and menacing, long and rich, with a wonderful combination of slowly maturing shiraz flavours graced by a slight, dry herbal thread from the cool vintage. Its liqueur dosage makes a cola-like announcement as the wine penetrates, but it's completely counter-attacked by a powerful, dry tannic influence and a tickly effervescence, which combine to command its long finish of saturated flavour.

ü+ Given the excellent vintage conditions, Stephen George has produced the finest sparkling red I've had from his stable. At 8 years of age, it's only just starting to reveal its considerable potential. Drink to 2018.

94 points

KNAPPSTEIN SPARKLING SHIRAZ

- Clare Valley, SA

- $16-$26

- Cork

- 14.0%alc

The richness and generosity of Australian shiraz has always made it a popular choice for our country's sparkling red producers. Over the years I've drunk sparkling reds made from grapes such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, sangiovese, tempranillo, durif and chambourcin, but the very best wines seem to always come from shiraz.

From word-go Knappstein's Sparkling Shiraz appears ripe, ready and fruity, as its bouquet sprays an attractive perfume of dried lavender and eucalyptus over aromas of mulberries, plums and berries, with creamy cedar oak playing its part. In a charmingly simple way, it's fresh, appealing and even somewhat regional. The medium-weight of the palate makes it very approachable, as does its freshly packed arrangement of rich red and black varietal fruit flavours, but depending on your stance it's either marred or elevated by an assured sweetness which takes on the guise of cherry brandy. Smart acidity frames the wine with trusty oak and a dry effervescence, while a lingering note of Black Forest cake completes the picture.

ü Right now Knappstein's Sparkling Shiraz displays the sweet, fresh, fruity characters of a sparkling red destined for broad appeal, but put it away for a year or two, and watch it settle into wine better set for the more discerning drinker. Drink to 2014 (just be aware it's non-vintage).

89 points

www.knappsteinwines.com.au

SEPPELT SALINGER 2006

- Victoria/Southern Australia

- $19-$35

- Cork

- 12.5%alc

Although it's no longer the pinnacle of Australia's sparkling white wine class as it once was, Seppelt's Salinger remains a beacon of consistency and quality in my eyes. However, I can't say the new packaging appeals to my senses.

Presenting a fine combination of racy bead with genuine foam and lace, the 2006 Salinger opens to a lively scent of sweet pastry overlying white flower, grapefruit and mineral aromas with funky meaty/cherry aspects imparted by its pinot noir component. It's foamy in the mouth, with a rich, chewy mid-section that announces sparkling mineral, grapefruit and butterscotch flavours. Its grapefruit and mineral nuances become more pronounced as the wine evolves towards a slightly bitter-edged, steely climax underlined by a lingering tone of yeast.

ü A pleasingly fresh, mineral-accented Salinger with enough overall balance to suggest it'll develop further richness and complexity over the next few years. Drink to 2014.

90 points

www.seppelt.com.au

SEPPELT ORIGINAL SPARKLING SHIRAZ 2006

- Victoria

- $13-$25

- Cork

- 13.5%alc

The Original Sparkling Shiraz seems to be as mandatory in Australian wine lists as the words 'moving forward' are in a Julia Gillard speech. Whether you like the Original's style or not, it's undeniable that it's been the benchmark sub-$20 sparkling red for so long now, that it's even become a house fizzer in the exclusive members area at Adelaide Oval Tests.

Vibrantly coloured yet very shy on first sniff, the 2006 Seppelt presents a rather subdued nose scented with cherry cola and dark plums backed by creamy vanilla/mocha oak with a mere suggestion of leathery development. Entering with syrup-like texture, its palate reveals straight forward, bright flavours of small berry and plum fruits with white pepper, framed by a soft drink-like effervescence which is overcome by dry, biting tannins. It's a shade lighter than some of the label's recent releases, and although it isn't terribly deep, rich or complex, it does finish with lingering notes of cherry and enough (well judged) persevering sweetness to see it gain broad appeal.

ü Not a sparkling red to convert doubters of the style, but a typically wise choice for anyone holding onto no more than a 20. Drink with good company. Drink to 2014.

89 points

www.seppelt.com.au