Wednesday, October 26, 2011

JACOB'S CREEK RESERVE CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR 2008

- Adelaide Hills, SA
- $12-$23
- Cork (Diam)
- 12.0%alc

My first review from the newly branded Jacob's Creek's Reserve range wasn't exactly a ringing endorsement of the brand's switch to single region wines, but happily, the second one is. Taking things up a notch from the very credible 2007 (90pts), the 2008 Reserve sparkling displays outstanding value for money once again.

A very gentle, elegant fragrance of understated complexity adorns the fragrance of the Jacob's Creek Reserve, as it opens to a clean and classy, floral aroma of buttered white bread, white pears and vanilla, risen by scents of ginger and cinnamon in a fashion that conclusively defies its often discounted price. Charmingly lean and dry, its palate chisels out a foamy effervescence bound by crisp acids, ensconcing a refreshingly mineral driven flavour profile of green apples, lemons and grapefruit trailed by emerging notes of lemon zest and light, savoury spice. For a moment the whole package seems so perfect and almost surreal, as its finish grips to the mouth with a clingy, steely tightness, but then, it just doesn't persist with the authoritative length of better wines. It's a minor quibble though, effectively brought out by someone expecting too much.

ü+ Flaunting some very clever, beautifully conceived winemaking, the 2008 Jacob's Creek Reserve is an ambitious little sparkling that initiates promising signs of true greatness, but just falls short. It's a dry, tight, cheap aperitif, made right in my own personal eyes-to-the-side style. Drink to 2013.
90 points


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