Thursday, October 13, 2011

LARRY CHERUBINO THE YARD ACACIA VINEYARD SHIRAZ 2009

- Frankland River, WA
- $26-$37
- Screwcap (Stelvin-Lux)
- 14.9%alc

Great Southern shiraz, in particular that from the Frankland River and Mt Barker sub-regions, is a burgeoning Australian style in need of a champion to sell its wares to the world. Enter Larry Cherubino, a former James Halliday Winery of the Year recipient, whose determination to promote Western Australia's diverse terroir might just fit the bill.

The 2009 Acacia Vineyard is a ripe yet savoury edged shiraz, strongly punctuated by a malty scent of cedar/coffee oak. Those adverse to a bit of wood in their shiraz might wanna proceed with caution here, but it is some classy smelling oak, whilst running through its presence is a simultaneously bright and dark expression of blueberries, plums and licorice, graced by a gentle air of violets, white pepper and clove. Extended aeration definitely helps. The medium-weighted palate begins with a savoury edged taste of sour dark fruits, before its profile becomes more interesting and layered, progressing into a grainier, slightly astringent finish. That's where a beautifully defined, rich notice of licorice emerges from the dark fruit and soothes long into the aftertaste, checked by ground spices and a structural backbone whose crunchy acids and brittle tannins show a slightly nervy edge, suggesting another year or two in the bottle may be of benefit.

O Lingering tastes of licorice and spice charcterise the high points of the 2009 Acacia Vineyard, but a slightly nervy structure and an oaky bouquet reside at the opposite end. If patience is on your side I'd recommend it, but for immediate drinking there are better options available. Drink 2013-2019.
90 points


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