Friday, August 20, 2010


- Rutherglen, VIC
- $55-$75
- Screwcap
- 18.0%alc

I'm not usually one to harp on about $65 wines being good value for money, but in the case of the Morris Old Premium Liqueur Tokay (the one with the black tin), I'd have no hesitation in saying it's genuinely undervalued at that price. In all respects, Morris' flagship release of tokay is about as good as the style gets.

The Old Premium presents itself as a glorious dark brown colour with a touch of olive-green and even a tinge of yellow to the rim, before opening to deep, heady scents of burnt toffee and choc-caramel, with the appropriate aged rancio/nutty characters complemented by further suggestions of black olive and dried, dark green tea-leaf. On the palate it's pure hedonistic joy, as it reveals an almost exoteric expression of intense thickness, depth and lusciousness. Its extravagantly rich flavours literally swirl around the mouth like dense waves, marrying a perfectly harmonious, complex blend of pronounced sweetness with savoury (nuts), dry (tea) and even sour (acid) character that's difficult to describe in words, but it certainly finishes extraordinarily long and fresh, imparting deeply stained, lasting impressions of burnt toffee, roasted nuts and clean spirit with a hint of granulated coffee.

ü+ An utterly, utterly magnificent drink no matter how you look at it. Every serious drinker of Australian wine should consume at least one bottle of this in their life. It's tokay-fection. Drink now.
97 points