OZ WINE TOONS

Rejected d'Arenberg wine labels

SCHILD ESTATE OLD BUSH VINE GRENACHE MOURVEDRE SHIRAZ 2009

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $12-$18

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

Sourced from vineyards with an average age of over 70 years, Schild Estate's 2009 Old Bush Vine is an unoaked (and perhaps undervalued considering the first line here) blend of grenache (55%), mourvedre (25%) and shiraz (20%) which is extremely appropriate for the buy today, drink now situation; decanting not required.

Sweet, soft and musky, this 2009 GMS literally blows away glowing scents of plums, dates, apricot kernel and an assortment of berries without a shred of oak present. The palate bursts into the mouth with a big, ripe hit of sweet, juicy primary fruits defined by an exaggerated jamminess, before a much welcomed influence of clove and spice characters command the wine towards a lengthy climax, with an accompaniment of soft, fluffy acids and lingering apricot tart-like undertones.

ü Even managing to contain its alcohol; Schild Estate's 2009 is a vividly flavoured wine which pretty much has everything you'd want in a $15, 1 year old unoaked Barossa GMS. It's been cleverly constructed and marks a success for the label. Drink to 2013.

89 points

www.schildestate.com.au

PENFOLDS THOMAS HYLAND COOL CLIMATE CHARDONNAY 2008

- South Australia

- $14-21

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

I've long believed Thomas Hyland Chardonnay to rate alongside Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet as the best wines in Penfolds' lower end, but even I was a bit surprised when the newly named (and complete with redesigned label) 2008 Thomas Hyland Cool Climate Chardonnay took out the Best White Under $20 trophy at the Royal Adelaide Wine Show last year.

Quite worked but certainly present with some smart fruit and a touch of class, its wide open nose reveals elements of creamy nougat with genuine cool climate, white nectarine and grapefruit aromas backed by a hint of spicy, toasty vanilla oak. Its generous palate presents richly flavoured nuances of creamy white fruit and nougat framed by a lively extract of zesty citric acids, and although it finishes pleasingly long with sweet, creamy toffee-like undertones, it does show a slight puckering astringency that denies it a truly elegant climax.

ü+ Generously flavoured, clean and ably refined; Penfolds' 2008 Thomas Hyland is a near perfect quaffing chardonnay that's well deserving of its Royal Adelaide trophy. At its often discounted price a box of these would make a great 'house' white at home. Drink to 2013.

90 points

www.penfolds.com

PENFOLDS GRANGE 2005

- South Australia

- $549-$650

- Cork

- 14.5%alc

The challengers have come thick and fast over the years but Penfolds Grange still remains Australia's ultimate wine in the broadest sense. The 2005 release certainly has its work cut out for it, having to follow on from a wine that should go on to become an all time great Grange (2004-98pts). A rather customary addition of cabernet sauvignon (4%) was included in the 2005, which was sourced from South Australia's Barossa Valley (88%), McLaren Vale and Coonawarra.

It's notably closed on first sniff, with a bouquet that hides deep in the bottom of the glass. Slowly it unfolds to a rustic, savoury fruited and complex nose of cola, berries, red and dark fruits and aniseed, overlying some carefully laden chocolate/vanilla oak (18 months in 100% new American) with lashings of meat and leather. Similarly, the complex palate is also closed and withdrawn, yet fine, long and penetrative, with an understated, lingering depth of masculine, earthy plum and rhubarb fruits graced by smatterings of chocolate. A fresh presence of youthful, sour-edged sweet fruit flavours adorn its long aftertaste, as well as the complementary extract of Grange's strong structural elements and iron-clad tannins.

O It's very hard to rate this young, closed, long term wine right now. Clearly (or downright obviously even) it's demanding a long stint in the cellar to unfold and reveal its inner beauty. What I can say is that it's a bloody good 2005 that will reward patience. Wait, wait, wait. Drink 2020-2035.

95 points

www.penfolds.com

PENFOLDS 2010 ICON AND LUXURY RELEASES

Penfolds' extravagant Magill Estate restaurant; still turning over a good trade even in this day and age.

May 1st 2010 has come around and with it two of the most exciting dates on the Adelaide calendar. The local footy teams; Port and the Crows, meet each other in the Showdown, and Penfolds release their latest vintage of Grange. So, depending on who you are the place to be is either AAMI Stadium or Penfolds Magill Estate. For me, it's a bit of a no brainer (poor Crows fans...).

Along with the rare opportunity to taste Grange, Penfolds also offer free tastings of their other icon wines on Grange day. It's not too many times the general public are invited to taste over $1200 worth of Australian wines across 7 bottles, for a fee of $30 for Grange (or free with bottle purchase) and nothing for the rest. For your $30 you really get a decent pour of Australia's icon wine - all my experiences suggest you're getting close to three standard tasting pours, or not too much less than half a glass.

Penfolds' chief winemaker, Peter Gago, is certainly not one to rest on his laurels. Despite his company's upheld status as Australia's most famous wine brand, it would seem he's on a never ending quest to refine and reshape Penfold's upper tier into genuine world beaters. Every wine here serves an individual purpose, and unlike Penfolds' lower range, there's no direct competition or overlapping of style from within Penfolds' icon and luxury releases.

Chardonnay has clearly become the white focus of Penfolds' premium releases, and the brand now sports two wines comparable to Australia's very best, of very differing styles. In particular, the Adelaide Hills' sourced Reserve Bin Chardonnay seems to be sneaking up on fine white wine drinkers, who, much like myself, might have been focusing more on Penfolds' Yattarna or even the very modern Bin 311 Chardonnay. The 2008 Reserve Bin is another great Adelaide Hills chardonnay under this quietly achieving (yet ambitiously asking - price wise) label.

The reds here need very little introduction. For me, the highlights of the current releases are another dark, brooding and powerful Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon which carries with it a surprising and welcomed addition of fresh, minty fruit considering its season, and a very vibrant, brightly fruited and juicy St Henri Shiraz.

Although it was merely sampled and not 'drunk' like my usual reviews, I'm reviewing Grange in a separate post, as it still remains Australia's most important wine. Honestly, I can't afford to buy a bottle of Grange to open and consume right now, and the 2005 vintage is a wine I wouldn't bother looking at for many more years based on today's tasting.

Finally, I'd like to make mention of the staff at Penfolds Magill Estate. Headed by Travis today, the Penfolds staff are always friendly, willing to communicate and very well versed in their Penfolds products. Keep up the good work guys!

Penfolds cellar door tasting notes are posted below

Penfolds Reserve Bin 08A Chardonnay 2008 ($90) Adelaide Hills. Certainly the more worked of the Penfolds' chardys, with 65% new oak, barrel fermentation, 100% malolactic fermentation, etc. - but it's a beauty! Its nose is very funky, wild and character laden, with lifted scents of buttery/nutty oak, quince and pungent melon fruits with a hint of cheesy/creamy malo notes. The palate is also very expressive, presenting a fullness of creamy fruit flavour offset by linear, shapely and well defined acids. I found a slight pineapple-like astringency to its acidity, which some have remarked on in Shaw and Smith's 2008, so if you didn't like that then this might not be for you. Good for me though. (full review soon) 94

Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2007 ($130) Tasmania/Adelaide Hills/Henty. The 07 Yattarna kinda pales in comparison to the cheaper 08A; it's instantly very closed and restrained, yet much more mineral and refined. The palate however, seems a bit flat and lacking genuine shape, with a faintly oily/nutty expression of white fruit and lemon flavours. It could come around with a little more bottle age, but I still find it a bit disappointing considering some of the beauties this label's pushed out lately. 92

Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2006 ($95) Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale/Robe. 11% Cabernet Sauvignon. To be honest St Henri isn't usually my favourite Penfolds red, but I really like this vibrant, polished wine from the 2006 vintage. It's very fragrant, with a big, ripe, sexy berry compote and sweet fruit nose, that also reveals true elements of spice and tobacco leaf which add further interest. Any oak influence is decidedly soft in the classic St Henri mould. Its palate is soft and fleshy in a more medium-bodied style, with some of the brightest, most vibrant fruit I've encountered from the label this century. Good length and polished tannins complete a compelling wine. (full review soon) 95

Penfolds Magill Estate Shiraz 2007 ($100) Typical of the vintage this is a more dark fruited and tannic Magill Estate, but it also contains a level of freshness missing from many 07's. It's ultra-ripe but nice, with strong black and red plum aromas partnered by some very snazzy, nutty chocolate/mocha oak. Silky and velvety on entry, its even palate finishes very long and fresh with some genuinely strong, grippy and dry tannins. A touch of tartness also reveals itself in the finish, but it's pleasingly kept in check. (full review soon) 93

Penfolds RWT Shiraz 2007 ($170) Big, tart, dried apricot-edged nose of very ripe plum and berry fruits with clean cedar oak. Once again it's a more medium-bodied Barossa shiraz, with a simultaneously sweet, savoury and sour edged expression of richly flavoured red and black cherry fruits. A dry, dusty tannic structure frames the palate from front to back, leaving a lingering impression of strength and dryness. 93

Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($185) Wow! Another great 707 that successfully harmonises the minty edged freshness of Padthaway cabernet sauvignon (roughly two thirds) with the deep richness of Barossa cabernet and the strength and structure of Coonawarra. Its lovely, fresh, minty and cedar oak aromas overlie a deeper presence of chocolate coated dark berry fruits. Considering the difficulties of the vintage there's an even ripeness evident throughout its full, bursting and bruising palate of unrelenting cabernet intensity, but it's also vibrantly fruited and flavoured, with a long finish and powerful structure. Its sheer power reminds me of the 2006 wine but the 2007 surprisingly seems a bit fresher. 96

Penfolds Grange 2005 ($549) Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale/Coonawarra. 96% Shiraz, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. 18 months 100% new American oak hogsheads. Full review separate post under the Shiraz tag. 95

STEFANO LUBIANA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009

- Southern Tasmania

- $22-$29

- Screwcap

- 12.5%alc

It might seem a bit odd but I really enjoy good Tasmanian sauvignon blanc on cold days. The better wines have a fresh, crisp bite akin to a winter chill, as well as cool herbal characters that remind me of dripping wet, wintry green-leaved plants.

Showing true clarity of colour and aroma, Stefano Lubiana's 2009 presents an attractively refined nose of restrained varietal quality, opening to herbal/grassy aromas of gooseberry and green pea with a touch of sweaty funk. The long, well constructed palate matches the nose with a refined varietal fruit profile, which bursts with cleanly balanced, juicy white fruit and apple flavours underpinned by notes of passionfruit and brine. Finishing with a lengthy extract of shapely, slightly sherbet-like citric acids, the wine drives home with true lasting impression.

ü+ Fans of Stefano Lubiana's style would do well to invest in this supremely drinkable sauvignon blanc. It's true to the man's ideals of full flavour, elegant structure and natural balance. Drink to 2011.

92 points

www.slw.com.au

FOX GORDON PRINCESS FIANO 2009

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $15-$22

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Talented winemaker Tash Mooney's gained much praise for her Fox Gordon Viognier, so it's only natural that she'd try her hand at other emerging styles, such as the southern Italian variety fiano. Alongside the McLaren Vale based wineries of Coriole and Oliver's Taranga, Fox Gordon's is only the third Australian fiano I've had.

Fox Gordon's second fiano, the 2009, presents floral aromas of lavender, apricot kernel and pine nuts with a clean trace of grapefruit citrus adding zing. Its mouthfeel is the unexpected highlight here, with a smooth, creamy and sumptuous fullness that touches all of the mouth's cornices with opulent flow. Keeping the back label honest is a real depth and persistence of mid-palate character, as the wine unravels pure, olive oil-like flavours with nutty undertones, that extend with brisk acids and a lingering tone of grapefruit.

ü+ Fox Gordon's 2009 Fiano is a rather remarkable, truly individual Australian white wine within its price bracket. It's intrinsic, texture driven (beautifully labelled too) and the pick of my brief encounters with Aussie fiano. Just don't drink it too cold. Watch this space. Drink to 2011.

90 points

www.foxgordon.com.au

OZ WINE TOONS

Although laughed out of his own press conference by the established wine media, Eugene's idea would go on to become a hit for generations to come.

D'ARENBERG THE CUSTODIAN GRENACHE 2007

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $16-$25

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

With long established labels like Custodian, Derelict Vineyard, Cadenzia, Ironstone Pressings and d'Arry's Original, McLaren Vale's d'Arenberg must surely possess Australia's greatest collection of grenache based wines. For around $20 the 2007 Custodian Grenache is a genuinely structured example of its regional style.

Evenly ripened and fruity without being sweet, its dark aromas of plum, blackberries and cranberry reveal meaty aspects and a subtle spice character, with a subdued influence of older oak sitting happily in the background. Texturally it's quite elegant for grenache, with a silky smooth entry that unloads medium-bodied, savoury flavours of earth, cherry, meats and sarsaparilla wrapped up by a rustic cut of firm, fine-grained and drying tannins. Penetrating with true length and an assertive structural lift towards a savoury climax, its masculine finish altogether contradicts its sensual, varietal entry in a well conceived metamorphosis.

ü+ d'Arenberg's made the most of the tannic nature of many 2007 reds, by producing a structured and savoury Custodian Grenache which plays to its regional strengths. It's an ideal grenache for medium term cellaring. Drink 2011-2017.

91 points

www.darenberg.com.au

SMALL NOTES ON SMALL WINERIES

Just a quick couple of notes/opinions I've compiled after my tastings at the Adelaide Food and Wine Expo. I'm focusing on just three small wineries here, but also present at the Expo were wine clubs Wine Selector and The Wine Society, as well as the organic wine group WildFox, who proved very popular with consumers, perhaps largely thanks to their very aggressive 'we're organic guys!' message.

PROTERO - ADELAIDE HILLS

I was most pleased to see Protero as the first winery I encountered today, especially as I quickly noticed the attendance of their nebbiolo. The 2005 Protero Nebbiolo ($60), which narrowly missed out on a top 10 slot in the Adelaide Review's Hot 100, is quite a true nebbiolo for me. It wasn't as fragrant or perfumed as many, but it does reveal raspberry, orange rind and spicy cherry aromas with just a hint of leathery development. The palate was svelte and chewy, with more savoury dark cherry, blackberry and toasty oak nuances held up very aggressively and firmly by an unmistakably dry fistful of nebbiolo tannin. Tannic, structured and age-worthy is the style of nebbiolo Protero set out to achieve, and in my opinion the 2005 succeeds. It'd definitely be worth a look in another 5 years. Certainly the most interesting wine of the day.

Protero also sell their Gumeracha sourced grapes to Coriole for their nebbiolo, which can currently be found in Coriole's 2007 Adelaide Hills release.

Also available from the Protero range was a 2007 Viognier, which is another fine, lean, mineral, clean and textured Adelaide Hills viognier in the increasingly common modern Australian style - good stuff; as well as a 2006 unwooded chardonnay which showed nice textural development and richness from its bottle age, but its 14.3% alcohol just weighed in too heavily on a finish that was too spirity for me. A 2005 Red Blend (Merlot/Cabernet) and a 2006 Merlot (both in the $20-$30 range) were also available, neither of which really left me with any memorable impressions.

ULEYBURY - ADELAIDE ZONE

Uleybury's certainly best known around these parts for their multi-award winning Reserve Semillon, in particular the 2002, so it both surprised and pleased me to see it's still current release. The wine immediately proclaims its development in its toasty, flinty, melon fruit and lemon rind bouquet, which combines freshness with development well. The palate displays the pungent qualities of maturing semillon, with a long finish marked by rich undertones of pronounced honey flavour. It's a very good if not totally mindblowing semillon, but I feel that at $35 it isn't just more expensive than many of the Hunter's wines, it's also more expensive than almost all its emerging Barossa contemporaries, including Peter Lehmann's scene shattering Margaret.

I also tried two reds from Uleybury's range, which were also showing bottle aged characters. A 2005 Sangiovese ($15.50) displayed developed colour with ripe currant-like aromas, but its palate surprised with approachable, juicy, luscious flavour. I think it's better and cheaper than regional neighbours Dominic Versace's efforts with the grape from the same season. A 2004 Shiraz ($19) showed much more convincing colour, with a smooth yet simple palate containing earth and chocolate flavours. Both red wines are appropriately priced in my opinion.

MURRAY STREET VINEYARDS - BAROSSA VALLEY

The four reds available for tasting from Murray Street Vineyards; 2007 Gomersal Shiraz ($35), 2007 Barossa SGM blend ($35), 2006 Sophia Shiraz ($75) and 2006 Benno Shiraz Mataro ($75), all certainly showed a definitive house style. All reds were rich, treacle-like, luscious, dense and concentrated styles in a traditionally ripe and generous Barossa manner, pretty much exactly what you'd expect from a small Barossa maker with loads of experience in the region. Honestly, I expected the two flagship wines from the 2006 season to see a step up in elegance and sophistication over their 2007 stablemates, but it just didn't happen for me. I'm sure these wines would've won a lot of friends on the day for their generosity and style, if not for their price tags.

If anyone's interested Murray Street's Benno Shiraz Mataro is named after the same Benno Seppelt as Seppelt's Bendigo sourced Benno Shiraz (Benno, Benno, Benno - I love that name!), but Murray Street have been making theirs for longer (just!).

Murray Street also presented a 2009 Viognier Marsanne, which for me was all about sweet, ripe viognier fruit in the luscious, pungent apricot flavour spectrum. It was very far removed from Protero's more refined effort I'd had earlier in the day, and it surprised me to learn that Murray Street's was the more expensive of the two, weighing at a rather hefty $35.