YARRA BURN PINOT NOIR 2009

- Tasmania/Adelaide Hills, SA/Yarra Valley, VIC

- $24-$35

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

The Victorian bushfires of 2009 forced Yarra Burn to look further afield for their 2009 Pinot Noir, drawing in fruit from Tasmania and the Adelaide Hills to create an intriguing tri-state blend. Also lookout for a similar three region blend from the award winning Coldstream Hills 2009 Pinot Noir, which was sourced from Tasmania, the Mornington Peninsula and western Victoria's Henty region.

I can't recall drinking a tri-state pinot noir before, or at least one that was labelled as such, and well; the 2009 Yarra Burn smells a treat. It's rather elemental in its intensely lifted, fragrant and juvenile state, with a range of sweet, musky spices and herbs that literally own the airspace sitting above the wine's surface. Cherries, plums, toasty vanilla/cedar oak and perhaps even meats and stalk reside in the bouquet as well, all leading into a dark fruited (Tassie?), medium/medium-full bodied (Adelaide Hills?) and relatively savoury palate that takes a long spell in the decanter to fully show its best. It's quite lithe and travels with the keenly balanced extract of sour-edged acids and tannin that pinot drinkers seek, however, although it eventually shows a pleasing richness of flavour and a certain fragility, I do detect a slightly astringent hardness at the climax of its firm, dry finish, which barely passes with time.

ü+ For around $27 the 2009 Yarra Burn is a genuinely complex (could just be the unusual regional make-up), cellaring style pinot noir. I optimistically envision it getting much better with time, so give it some. There's a clear extra point for potential here. Drink 2014-2016.

92 points

www.yarraburn.com.au

AD HOC WALLFLOWER RIESLING 2010

- Mount Barker, WA

- $15-$22

- Screwcap (Stelvin-Lux)

- 11.5%alc

If there's one wine style I'd personally like to see achieve better distribution throughout Adelaide's retailers, then it's Great Southern riesling. Older vintages from the likes of Plantagenet, Frankland Estate, Ferngrove and Alkoomi seem to be gathering dust on the shelves of numerous retailers (and in some cases, unlikely to be restocked), while the only current vintage wines I've been able to obtain in the last 12 months have been from Howard Park and Larry Cherubino's stable (thank you Halliday ;). Nothing against the last two names mentioned but.......sigh(!).

Just as the back label states, Ad Hoc's 2010 Riesling is 'unassuming' in its very tight, shy aromatic introduction, which presents a limey, pristine and pure fragrance of floral riesling fruits underlined by a gentle touch of wet stone/chalk. Once the palate hits though; it's 'unassuming' no more. It's juicy and rich, with a concentrated, weighty presence of lime juice and green apples that become saturated with citric accents as it powers down the palate, before showing a hint of sherbet-like fizz at the climax. A sumptuous, mouth filling impression may leave the deepest hole here, but a well contained, dry and lithe acid structure that's been polished to the point of refreshment ensures its length and drive aren't to be scoffed at either.

ü+ As beautiful Australian riesling continues spreading its wings across the country, I'm keeping a keen eye on what labels are going to challenge the Clare and Eden Valley's dominance of the sub-$20 market. Ad Hoc's Wallflower has definitely stepped forward as a challenger (distribution helps). Drink to 2018.

91 points

www.adhocwines.com

TRENTHAM PINOT NOIR 2009

- Big Rivers Zone, NSW

- $11-$18

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Reliable performers among Australia's mass produced, sub-$15 pinot class are so thin on the ground you could count them on one hand. In fact, here we go; De Bortoli's Windy Peak and Trentham Estate's. If anyone has any suggestions for my remaining fingers I'd be very grateful.

Unsurprisingly Trentham's 2009 Pinot Noir smells ripe, with dark cherry and blackberry fruits graced by a meaty edge, but there's also a herbal, sappy and perhaps spicy note that is keenly varietal. The palate drinks fractionally warm and as a result is nothing if not straight forward by pinot noir standards, but that's it - it actually fits within pinot noir standards. Its warm climate fruit has imparted a body that's relatively medium-full for the variety, yet it's beautifully soft in its progression, unravelling true flavours of dark cherries, meats and light spice in the white pepper/cinnamon spectrum. As one should expect its refreshing, acid-based structure won't see this wine into the cellar, but there's definitely a backbone; it's clean in nature, devoid of harshness, with an ease of gentle accessibility that's bound to see streetwise quaffers aching for more.

ü+ A wonderful summertime quaffing red. Smooth, soft, silky and varietal; I continue to be amazed by what Trentham Estate can achieve with a $13, warm climate pinot. Drink now.

89 points

www.trenthamestate.com.au

COLDSTREAM HILLS PINOT NOIR CHARDONNAY 2004

- Yarra Valley, VIC

- $29-$35

- Cork

- 12.0%alc

If Tasmania's my first port of call for Australian sparklings (which it is), then the Yarra Valley would go pretty close to being my second. The Yarra delivered a trio of top class fizzers from 2004, under the labels of Yarrabank (93pts), Coldstream Hills (92pts from Feb '09) and the late release Yarra Burn Blanc de Blancs (93pts).

Still a youthful looking pale-straw colour, Coldstream Hills' 2004 presents a fresh nose scented with gently honeyed citrus fruits, white nectarines, nougat and creamed nuts in an evenly balanced fashion. Its aroma is fresh and invigorating - sheer delight really. Very creamy and rather sumptuous on entry, yet distinctly medium in weight, its palate pushes through a clean and clear mouthful of mineral and brine flavours with a soft, foamy finish framed by a surprisingly stringy cut of grapefruit-like acids. It could use a bit more effervescent tightness really, as its finish seems fractionally loose and fades away somewhat in structural intensity, but its good length of creamy, texture driven flavour remains a plus.

O Coldstream Hills' 2004 still blooms with the sexy fragrant qualities that made me fall in love with it 2 years ago, but it is starting to look a little loose through the back palate now, so I'd drink up. Drink now.

90 points

www.coldstreamhills.com.au

TYRRELL'S SINGLE VINEYARD HVD SEMILLON 2005

- Lower Hunter Valley, NSW

- $20-$35

- Screwcap

- 11.5%alc

Much like the single vineyard Steven's and Belford Semillons, Tyrrell's HVD (vines planted 1908) is a tireless over performer (especially at 20 bucks!), whether the requirements call for something to drink now or something to cellar with confidence. Strangely, it seems like only yesterday the HVD carried a retail tag closer to $50....

Almost looking like it was bottled yesterday, the 2005 HVD initially reveals a nose seemingly stuck in a bad place between youthful vitality and bottle aged complexity, but with a few deep breaths it opens up like a spring flower, shooting forth lemon/lime citrus and apple charged (and I mean charged) aromas laced with a pleasingly herbal, tobacco-like expression of its melon fruit. The palate introduces itself as rather round and smooth but its penetrative extension is perfectly pitched and completely up to task. Its simultaneously powerful, soft and fluffy impression of pure and vibrant, somewhat primary Hunter fruit pushes on with the drive of a sports car, moving to a truly long finish with a chalky, glistening extract of mouth puckering acids that make for an assertive and edgy, yet charming driver. There may be a hint of straw or even toast evident at the climax, but it's pretty hard to look past the HVD's texture, acid structure and persistence; all expressed in the classical style that's only possible in the Hunter.

ü+ Brilliant. For $20 (check Melbourne Street Fine Wine) the 2005 HVD is an absolute steal. In this Summer of Riesling, all of a sudden I feel like making a change to my own personal Summer of Semillon.... Drink to 2019.

94 points

www.tyrrells.com.au

STEFANO LUBIANA BRUT

- Southern Tasmania

- $29-$40

- Cork (Diam)

- 12.5%alc

Although his range now includes some of Tasmania's finest pinot noir, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, it was with sparkling wine production that Steve Lubiana first cut his teeth on the island state. The Stefano Lubiana Brut remains one of Australia's best non-vintage styles.

An attractive note of white chocolate coated almonds announce the aromatic arrival of Stefano Lubiana's Brut, which is quite lively and fresh in its aperitif-style make-up, thanks to further suggestions of zingy citrus sherbet and light butter adding fragrant, cocktail party-esque appeal. Its very tight, crisp palate reveals a salty lick of oyster shell and granny smith apple flavour with grapefruit-like acids, driven along by a pulsating, mineral thread which makes its presence felt strongest through a zippy, drying finish marked additionally by a sly note of white cheese/leesy complexity. The only downside is the palate's a touch lean, especially through the middle section, where a fraction more richness and textural interest would've aided its fine structural elements immeasurably.

ü There's so much to like here as an aperitif style Tasmanian fizzer, but, call me boring, because 9 times out of 10 I'd prefer the ever reliable Jansz for $10 less. Drink now.

90 points

www.slw.com.au

A TERRIFIC TASTING PLATE FOR A TIGHT, EFFERVESCENT TASMANIAN SPARKLING

(From left to right)

Natural oyster with lime juice, cracked pepper, sliver of avocado , Roma tomato mince and fresh coriander

Natural oyster with lemon juice, cracked pepper, salmon roe and freshly cut chives

Barbecued potato slice with cream cheese, smoked salmon, chives and dill

Lobster tail meat in a white truffle butter sauce

TAMAR RIDGE KAYENA VINEYARD BOTRYTIS RIESLING 2007

- Tamar Valley, TAS

- $22-$25

- Screwcap

- 9.0%alc

Last year's welcomed news of Brown Brothers purchasing Tamar Ridge from Gunns Ltd cast blue skies over what was previously considered a grey cloud on Tasmanian wine. I love Tasmanian wine and I like the move by Brown Brothers, so I wish them all the best with their future endeavours on the Apple Isle.

There's quite a striking, deep golden colour to Tamar Ridge's 2007 Botrytis Riesling, which translates into a nose beset with some real botrytis influence. It's funky and almost rubbery, with an aroma of ultra-ripe stonefruits touched by hints of light honey, fig, faint citrus and something resembling burnt brown sugar/caramel. Any indication of riesling's primary lemon/lime citrus fruits have certainly been modified and developed here. On the palate it pumps a rich and luscious length of flavour, as its mouth-coating, even flow of orange/citrus marmalade characters morph into sticky toffee and apricot-like tones, which cumulatively display a near perfect, essential balance of rich sweetness and refreshing acidity throughout. Despite its substantial richness and impact, the whole package just seems so smooth, effortless and seamless, making it a dessert wine I'm more than happy to go back to after the first glass.

ü+ Made in a rich and ultimately satisfying style, the 2007 Kayena Vineyard is among the best Australian dessert rieslings I've had. It's actually surprised me. For all the hatred, Tamar Ridge certainly made some good wine while under the control of Gunns Limited.... Drink to 2013.

92 points

www.tamarridge.com.au

ROSEMOUNT MOUNTAIN BLUE SHIRAZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006

- Mudgee, NSW

- $37-$53

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

It's such a shame that what could be the Mudgee region's flag bearing wine, Rosemount Mountain Blue, lies in a tangled mess of corporate ownership within one of Australia's least fashionable wine brands. I couldn't help but smile recently when an independent retailer told me; "I get all these guys coming in with black Wynns shirts but if I stock Rosemount they'd hit me in the face with it." Looking beyond these points, the Mountain Blue is actually capable of a standard equal to the very best shiraz cabernet sauvignons.

Brought to life by a complex unison of gravelly earth and boot polish aromas, the 2006 Mountain Blue seems so classically Australian in its old fashioned shiraz cabernet nose. With shiraz clearly in the driver's seat it puts up a bright, evenly ripened yet proudly meaty fragrance of dark currant fruits tickled by light, airy spices; with oak playing a heady yet smoothly courteous role, possibly more suggestive of American wood than French. These aromatic features transfer almost perfectly into its flavour profile, which courses along a very smooth, utterly seamless medium-bodied palate coated by rich chocolate oak and completed with lingering, sour-edged meaty aspects and a surprisingly lithe, fair structure that speaks more of zippy acids than coarse tannin.

ü The 2006 Mountain Blue seems a very good, methodically conceived Aussie red; more than perfect for red meat dishes, but it just lacks that something special in the way of structure, length and finesse. Ye olde warm climate Mudgee can definitely pull this style off though. Drink to 2018.

92 points

www.rosemountestate.com

OZ WINE TOONS