Sitting behind Coldstream Hills yet well in front of the potentially troubled Yarra Ridge, St Huberts is Treasury Wine Estate's (Foster's) second Yarra Valley based label. My pick of St Huberts' collection is typically the cabernet sauvignon; a wine that reliably reflects Yarra Valley style and elegance, and usually more so than Coldstream Hills' cabernet.
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon is 'pretty' in the true Yarra Valley style, yet its most pronounced aromatic feature is a strong, woody, masculine whiff of cigar-box, cedar and dried leaf notes that contribute a clear sense of varietal definition to its pastille blackcurrant and black plum-skin fragrance, without veering too far into cabernet's greener aspects. With medium weight and silky elegance the palate slides in with charming etiquette, but this initial cruise forces itself home with real authority. Its deliciously dry, dusty and sour-edged cranberry, blackcurrant and cedar oak flavours become drier, dustier, more savoury and more sour-edged with penetration, as the wine marches to a fine-grained finish of spectacular length and growing complexity. Although strong to finish, its tannic influence is absconded somewhat by persisting sour-edged acids and exquisite length of full fruit flavour.
ü+ Forget the big brand association, just close your eyes, decant (maybe not in that order), sniff and drink; this is a winner in any sense. It holds its own very well in a competitive market full of smart, $25 Australian cabernets from the excellent 2008 vintage. Drink 2013-2023.