- Macedon Ranges, VIC - $35-46
- Cork (Vintage dated Diam)
- 13.5%alc
When the name Bindi arises, or the Macedon Ranges for that matter, most drinkers immediately cast their minds to pinot noir, but both this maker and the region are equally as capable of delivering spectacular Australian chardonnay.
Finding the odorous middle-ground between tightly restrained and rich, Bindi's 2009 Composition Chardonnay is at once sharply aromatic and smoothly scented, as its peach and butterscotch-like oak aromas provide the underlying smoothness to an initial lift of precisely fragrant mineral, grapefruit and dry wheatmeal notes. The most prominent feature of the palate is a rebelling, youthful, tangy citric acidity, which imposes itself when it cuts into the mouth's cornices, ensconcing within it a medium-bodied assortment of melon and minerals with both sweet and savoury suggestions. It could be considered a bit brassy, but the optimist inside me likens it to being more like watered down liquid gold. Length is a plus, as is its shape.
ü The cutting, shapely acids that define this wine suggest it should hold together for a few more years yet, which is when I'd recommend its consumption. Better then than now though. A keeper. Drink 2013-2016.
91 points
Chris,
ReplyDeleteThe last one of these I tried was from 05, and as hard as I try not to compare to other regions, it reminds me most of Chablis. The tightness and blistering acidity.
The Bindi wines are such brilliant and idiosyncratic things. I tasted the 08 Quartz tonight and it reminded me and my brother in law of dried banana chips and corn in the mouth - which sounds horrible, but in reality it was just otherworldly and something to make you stop.
Ed,
ReplyDeleteInteresting you say that because I too try not to draw comparisons to other 'Old World' regions, but as I was drinking this wine I couldn't help but think of Chablis - perhaps, 4 times while drinking ;)
As you say, it was what I referred to as the tangy acidity that did it for me.
I drunk this with my chardonnay loving girlfriend (hence I have no true brother in law to drink Bindi with) and she wasn't that impressed. I kept telling her it really was a wine which needed more time to flower/settle, to which she replied; "why are we drinking it now then?"
She really had me there. I hate it when she does that...... :)
I love Bindi too. I just really appreciate the wineries with whom it's bloody obvious that the focus is on growing the best grapes possible and making the best wines they can out of them, whilst others issues (such as assertive marketing/advertising etc) are pushed to the side. Really, consistently making good wine is the best promotion you can get. I have an 09 Comp. Pinot on the shelf awaiting consumption shortly, and I'm eagerly anticipating it.
Cheers,
Chris P