OZ WINE TOONS

High end glassware round the water cooler

S.C. PANNELL GRENACHE 2009

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $42-$58

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

S.C. Pannell Grenache is a real buzz wine at the moment, racking up high praise from practically anyone fortunate enough to encounter one. Following on from his award winning 2009, Stephen Pannell's 2010 just won 'Best Grenache' at the McLaren Vale Wine Show, making it back to back local victories for this emerging classic.

Softly perfumed, with a vivaciously ripened yet beautifully controlled, wildly open aroma of earthy redcurrants, kirsch, prunes, blueberries, cloves and cinnamon gently backed by older oak, the multi-faceted nose of S.C. Pannell's 2009 Grenache displays a complex combination of pinot-like graciousness with McLaren Vale intensity and sweet fruit. All its elements sing in harmony, with no one trying to steal the show, as it literally revels in the warmth of its season. Its palate is just so soft, silky and unforced, with an ethereal suppleness rare in Australian grenache, yet throughout the movement its gritty, rustic accent of juicy, jammy forest berry flavours are equally checked by an ultra-fine coverage of dry, bony tannins, which deliver the wine to a fine, persistent finish of outstanding focus, marked by both sweet fruit and savoury aspects. It's pointless to pick a high point here; texture, structure, length, impeccable oak handling, they're all winners. Basically, she's downright sexy and about as good as McLaren Vale grenache gets.

ü+ It's eminently justifiable consecutive Stephen Pannell wines have won two straight McLaren Vale grenache trophies, because this increasingly popular style might've just unearthed its new champion. World class. The modern face of traditional McLaren Vale? Drink to 2021.

96 points

www.pannell.com.au

HEEMSKERK CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR 2007

- Coal River Valley, TAS

- $48-$65

- Cork (Diam)

- 12.0%alc

The reinvented Heemskerk brand marks a serious attempt by Treasury Wine Estates to move into high end Tasmanian wine. At present, the Heemskerk range constitutes a southern Tasmanian collection of single region riesling, chardonnay and pinot noir, as well as a new challenger to Australia's super premium sparkling class. From packaging to palate, these wines are looking pretty smart.

Practically as foamy as a bubble bath at Hugh Hefner's place, with a really racy, minute line of bead and fine lace, the Heemskerk begins its display with a pale, youthful colour, depicting a typically classy visual entrance. Its nose is real steely and tight, giving away little in its infancy. There are quiet suggestions of spiced pear, minerals, hazelnut and lemon cake, which precede a palate with more mineral focus than some sparkling mineral waters I've had. It's undoubtedly youthful and tight, with a crystal-clear expression of crisp apples, grapefruits and strawberry driven down a very strict line of tightly coiled flavour, working its way into a bone dry finish marked by brisk effervescence, lingering citric/mineral aspects and a tangy note of sherbet. Its crisp backbone and understated elegance through mineral complexity are fine, sizing it up well as an aperitif, but personally, I was looking for something a bit more outrageous. Patience is definitively recommended.

O TWE Arras? I don't think so. Aside from the obvious, in that it's much younger than any Arras I've had, it appears to be constructed very differently, relying more on restraint, mineral focus and freshness, and altogether looking more like a rather expensive Australian party starter. Time will tell how the two compare. Drink 2015-2019.

92 points

www.heemskerk.com.au

JACOB'S CREEK RESERVE CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR 2008

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $12-$23

- Cork (Diam)

- 12.0%alc

My first review from the newly branded Jacob's Creek's Reserve range wasn't exactly a ringing endorsement of the brand's switch to single region wines, but happily, the second one is. Taking things up a notch from the very credible 2007 (90pts), the 2008 Reserve sparkling displays outstanding value for money once again.

A very gentle, elegant fragrance of understated complexity adorns the fragrance of the Jacob's Creek Reserve, as it opens to a clean and classy, floral aroma of buttered white bread, white pears and vanilla, risen by scents of ginger and cinnamon in a fashion that conclusively defies its often discounted price. Charmingly lean and dry, its palate chisels out a foamy effervescence bound by crisp acids, ensconcing a refreshingly mineral driven flavour profile of green apples, lemons and grapefruit trailed by emerging notes of lemon zest and light, savoury spice. For a moment the whole package seems so perfect and almost surreal, as its finish grips to the mouth with a clingy, steely tightness, but then, it just doesn't persist with the authoritative length of better wines. It's a minor quibble though, effectively brought out by someone expecting too much.

ü+ Flaunting some very clever, beautifully conceived winemaking, the 2008 Jacob's Creek Reserve is an ambitious little sparkling that initiates promising signs of true greatness, but just falls short. It's a dry, tight, cheap aperitif, made right in my own personal eyes-to-the-side style. Drink to 2013.

90 points

www.jacobscreek.com.au

CURRENCY CREEK ESTATE PINOT NOIR CHARDONNAY RESERVE BRUT

- Currency Creek, SA

- $13-$19

- Zork Spk

- 12.5%alc

Currency Creek is a relatively humble South Australian wine region, found some 80km south of Adelaide near the popular tourist town of Goolwa, or about 50km east of Brian Croser's Parawa vineyard in the Southern Fleurieu. Ballast Stone would have to be the best known producer in the region, although a lot of their production comes from nearby McLaren Vale.

Quite simple and sweet-edged, Currency Creek Estate's sparkling rosé reveals a bronzey fragrance of big strawberries and brandied cherries with a hint of honey stick. It's decisively pinot dominant but it lacks outright freshness and complexity, while its stylistic statement doesn't exactly adhere to my personal taste. The palate shows similarly simple, sweet edges to its well filled-out, Christmas cake-like rendition of liqueur cherry flavour, with a trace of vanilla trailing along for comfort, but then, it finishes surprisingly fine, tight and brisk, with a direct line of effervescence and acids marching towards a neatly defined vanishing point, marked by a fizzy, tangy climax that almost turns the wine into my favour - but not quite. Unfortunately, the harmony of its elements never really settles and it's just not my kind of aperitif. It's too sweet and edgy.

O Okay, but not enough finesse. Cellar door spesh? Local pub list? The girls on race day? Whatever the market, it's not my type of fizz. Drink now.

86 points

www.currencycreekwines.com.au

SO, WHAT'S A ZORK THEN?

Basically, Zork (or Zork Spk in this case) is an alternative closure I've seen predominantly used on some of Australia's not so expensive sparkling wines, where retention of fizz from first glass to last is desired, although there is a Zork available for still wines as well. The idea behind Zork is to deliver a resealable and taint free closure, like the screwcap, albeit one which retains the 'pop' wine drinkers have come to love when extracting cork. As a consumer, I can say the 'pop' is present and it reseals well (almost all my Currency Creek note was scribbled on day two - the freshness and effervescence had barely changed), but I feel the romance has been lost somewhat. It looks rather bold and manufactured compared to the more natural look of cork.

Despite its ungainly appearance, it's actually quite user friendly and serves its purpose well, and I'll probably hold onto mine, because it seems to be reusable and transferable across Australian sparkling wines. Time will tell how long I hold onto it for.

L: Screwed tight and sealed. R: Unscrewed and ready for popping.

Black Shiraz? Zork? Nah, I just put it there. Nice fit though.

And Pol too? Nope. No such luck. Clearly there's some cultural differences at play. Fits like an elephant into a Porsche.

MITCHELL HARRIS ROSÉ 2011

- Pyrenees/Macedon Ranges, VIC

- $21.95

- Screwcap

- 12.5%alc

By conceiving a synergistic blend of early picked Pyrenees pinot noir, Pyrenees sangiovese juice and Macedon pinot sparkling pressings, Mitchell Harris have given birth to one of Australia's most fascinating, dry and savoury rosés. For smart phone users, the 2011 release has a QR code journey waiting to happen on the back label.

There's an interesting, if light mix of sweet, savoury and even sour suggestions on the nose of the 2011 Mitchell Harris Rosé. Glazed cherries, strawberry juice, nuts and lemons make a sharp point; reflecting some degree of its varietal make up, with a dollop of cream riding along to fractionally soften the scent. It's all fairly even and well pitched for the style, leading into a palate that reveals some marginally dirty, sweet 'n' sour edges to its uncomplicated rosé flavour, which I struggle to get past. On the plus side it's brightly flavoured, appropriately weighted and fairly persistent, but ultimately, I feel it lacks the freshness and zing I so adored in its predecessor (2010-89pts).

O Keen rosé drinkers will find a welcomed friend in the 2011 Mitchell Harris, but to me, it looks more like a good Sunday arvo café quaff, rather than the pacesetting, dry and racy rosé the 2010 was. Drink to 2012.

87 points

www.mitchellharris.com.au

BINDI COMPOSITION PINOT NOIR 2010

- Macedon Ranges, VIC

- $49-$60

- Cork (Vintage dated Diam)

- 13.5%alc

Honest, informed opinions go a long way in (independent) wine retail. I was about to buy Curly Flat's 2008 Pinot Noir, when I was told; 'It's shit. Consider something else.' So (without having my arm twisted), here I am with a Bindi Macedon fix. Happy too.

Irresistibly funky and savoury, meaty and musky, with a beguiling depth of well ripened pinot fruit, Bindi's 2010 Composition reveals a beautifully floral fragrance of earthy red and blackcurrants with smooth edges of licorice and vanilla oak. By some distance, it's the most interesting Composition I've sniffed. Showing classic Bindi feel; soft, supple and unforced, its palate just graces its way through the mouth, dropping its earthy, cedary and spicy announcement of red berry fruits with real delicacy and fragility. The whole, texturally driven package is appropriately bound by an extremely fine-grained, powdery structure that lingers long into the mouth, depositing real tightness and lasting savoury impression across a taste of red licorice. It's a truly ethereal Bindi pinot noir, with plenty of potential for secondary development.

ü+ Absolutely fantastic. Working its way up a gradual curve to greatness, through increased elegance and complexity, Bindi's Composition Pinot Noir keeps getting better every year. At this rate, you might wanna put your pre-orders in for any Block K pinots now. Drink to 2019.

94 points

www.bindiwines.com.au

TEN MINUTES BY TRACTOR 10X PINOT NOIR 2010

- Mornington Peninsula, VIC

- $32-$39

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

Ever wondered where Ten Minutes by Tractor gets its unique name from? It's derived from the estate's 3 original vineyards, and the 'ten minutes by tractor' separating each of them.

Enhanced by some very fragrant caramel-like oak, notes of spearmint and a spicy high tone of cinnamon, the 2010 10X underpins these leading, sweet and savoury suggestions with a typical yet attractively varietal base of juicy, succulent cherries, rhubarbs and strawberries, to altogether announce a nose of brightly lit charm. Without being too complex or other worldly, it actually smells delicious, in an over achieving style for an entry level pinot. Travelling along a light-medium bodied framework, its satiny palate races into the mouth, releasing an ultimately youthful taste of varietal cherries and clove which persist and evolve with surprising length. As the progression continues, the back palate practically steals the show, by punching out an intensifying and gripping, yet still lithe, structure of succulent acids and fine-boned, powdery tannins, underscored by sour-edged meaty notes and a dry rub of herbs and spice. Its composition is set particularly well for an earlier drinker, yet there's sufficient character to see it improve in the bottle.

ü+ The 2010 10X is a pleasingly varietal yet rather intense, racy little Mornington pinot, guided well by aroma, weight and penetration. It's a wine where I can see development but I'm already liking its youthful aggression. Consequently, it's great value for now or later. Drink to 2016.

92 points

www.tenminutesbytractor.com.au

YALUMBA EDEN VALLEY VIOGNIER 2010

- Eden Valley, SA

- $16-$25

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Despite being Australia's self appointed champion of viognier, I used to think Yalumba held a single ace in their pack when it came to the white Rhône variety. However, recent years have caused a rethink on my behalf, as Louisa Rose and her team are fashioning more complexity and restrained elegance into their entry level wines. The Eden Valley Viognier in particular, is starting to show flashes of becoming a mini-Virgilius.

Apparently lacking the savoury elegance and charm I'd hoped for, the 2010 Eden Valley Viognier initially opts towards a primary, fruit driven fragrance of tinned peaches, apricot juice and lychees, with a floral, rose petal-like edge contradicted by a spiky, erratic hit of exotic spice. It does flirt with pungency on the nose and I might look over this at a speed tasting, but then, as if right on cue, the palate comes forth and saves the day, by delivering a bright, long and creamy expression of well controlled varietal flavour. It's bold and slightly unctuous, unleashing a real mouthful of white peach, apricot skin and citrus zest characters, before it finishes long with creamy apricot notes and a penetrative framework of glistening, grapefruit-like acids, all washed around the mouth with a touch of phenolic fuzz which dances to a funky beat whilst staying true to the rhythm. For a pungently varietal, fruity viognier, it works.

ü I generally don't go for viogniers like this and on inspection of the nose I thought; 'ooh. Looks like another one of those viogniers Chris.' But amazingly, it's a load of fun to drink. It is quite (stone) fruity and vaguely phenolic in the typical viognier way, but its textural richness, penetrative length and balancing acids complete a fine wine. It ain't no mini-Virgilius though. Drink to 2013.

91 points

www.yalumba.com