ASHTON HILLS SPARKLING SHIRAZ 2002

- Clare Valley, SA

- $40-$47

- Cork

- 13.0%alc

An air of mystery surrounds the front label of this sparkling shiraz, which mentions neither maker nor its region of origin. There is however, a hint on the back label as to where the wine might originate; 'Made from the grapes of dry grown, low yielding vines averaging 70 years of age with nearly half planted in 1893.' Followers of Stephen George should be familiar with the site in question.

A strong whiff of licorice casts its presence throughout this freshly scented 2002 Sparkling Shiraz, with deeper notes of currants, black plums and shoe polish lifted by a resonant fragrance of heady, smoky oak imparted from its 4 years of maturation in old oak. Fans of sparkling reds will love its palate, which is dark and menacing, long and rich, with a wonderful combination of slowly maturing shiraz flavours graced by a slight, dry herbal thread from the cool vintage. Its liqueur dosage makes a cola-like announcement as the wine penetrates, but it's completely counter-attacked by a powerful, dry tannic influence and a tickly effervescence, which combine to command its long finish of saturated flavour.

ü+ Given the excellent vintage conditions, Stephen George has produced the finest sparkling red I've had from his stable. At 8 years of age, it's only just starting to reveal its considerable potential. Drink to 2018.

94 points

OZ WINE TOONS

BINDI COMPOSITION PINOT NOIR 2009

- Macedon Ranges, VIC

- $47-$56

- Cork (Vintage dated Diam)

- 13.0%alc

Bindi is now justifiably recognised as one of the top two or three makers of pinot noir in Australia. The Composition is Bindi's third pinot noir label, which, I'm sure, is a wine many makers would be happy having as their reserve release.

The 2009 Composition has an aroma which appears tight and somewhat closed at first, yet it possesses enough depth and intrigue to invite the nose in deeper for further inspection. It smells clever and concise, with white pepper notes strung throughout cherries and fine cedar oak, suggesting a composed and youthful pinot with its best years ahead. Its medium-bodied palate bares the fine, svelte, silky texture which has become Bindi's hallmark, by revealing a satiny caress similar to the 2008 wine, but that's where the similarities largely end, because this pinot's packed with more dark cherry, earth and light spice characters than its red berry-flavoured predecessor. It's also longer and finer to finish, as its symmetrical balance of fine tannins and slick acid emanate towards tightly defined vanishing points with the discipline of a marching band.

ü+ A fine, textural pinot with more than enough svelte structure to see it mature for some time yet. As the Block K vineyard matures, I'll continue to watch this wine with keen interest. Drink to 2017.

93 points

www.bindiwines.com.au

JOSEF CHROMY PEPIK PINOT NOIR 2009

- Northern Tasmania

- $15-$23

- Screwcap

- 12.5%alc

A recent VC catalogue brought a smile to my face when I read the text describing Josef Chromy's 2009 Pepik Pinot Noir; "Varietal personality and drinkability make this a contender for best Tassie Pinot." Now that's an optimistic pitch for one of the cheapest Tasmanian pinot noirs around!

For $18 Josef Chromy's 2009 Pepik captures the perfumed, musky features of pinot noir well. Its cherry and strawberry aromas do veer slightly towards the confectionery side, but elements of cinnamon sugar, spearmint and even stalk help keep things interesting, whilst directing the fragrance well away from souped-up rosé territory. The palate is relatively light in weight and not as sweetly pitched as the nose, as its varietally correct flavour profile suggests more dark, brandied cherries and sap with a greenish note of tomato stalk to finish. Unfortunately, like many sub-$20 pinots, there are several aspects which let the palate down. It's texturally uninspiring and fairly short on length and depth of fruit, while it finishes a little green-edged and dirty with a gritty resistance, however, it's nowhere near as hard as some pinots within its price bracket.

O At $15 bulk-buy this is worth a 'pepik' for someone in search of a house/quaffing pinot. Just don't expect anything more than a basic varietal expression. Drink to 2013.

87 points

www.josefchromy.com.au

KNAPPSTEIN SPARKLING SHIRAZ

- Clare Valley, SA

- $16-$26

- Cork

- 14.0%alc

The richness and generosity of Australian shiraz has always made it a popular choice for our country's sparkling red producers. Over the years I've drunk sparkling reds made from grapes such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, sangiovese, tempranillo, durif and chambourcin, but the very best wines seem to always come from shiraz.

From word-go Knappstein's Sparkling Shiraz appears ripe, ready and fruity, as its bouquet sprays an attractive perfume of dried lavender and eucalyptus over aromas of mulberries, plums and berries, with creamy cedar oak playing its part. In a charmingly simple way, it's fresh, appealing and even somewhat regional. The medium-weight of the palate makes it very approachable, as does its freshly packed arrangement of rich red and black varietal fruit flavours, but depending on your stance it's either marred or elevated by an assured sweetness which takes on the guise of cherry brandy. Smart acidity frames the wine with trusty oak and a dry effervescence, while a lingering note of Black Forest cake completes the picture.

ü Right now Knappstein's Sparkling Shiraz displays the sweet, fresh, fruity characters of a sparkling red destined for broad appeal, but put it away for a year or two, and watch it settle into wine better set for the more discerning drinker. Drink to 2014 (just be aware it's non-vintage).

89 points

www.knappsteinwines.com.au

THE WILLOWS VINEYARD SEMILLON 2005

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $14-$21

- Screwcap

- 12.5%alc

Winemakers Peter and Michael Scholz produce their single vineyard semillon from vines planted in 1936 at Light Pass in the northern Barossa Valley. To encourage complexity of style, French oak fermentation is employed in the making process, while a period of bottle ageing (around 4 years at release) helps bring out semillon's much desired secondary characteristics.

Unsurprisingly, this 5 year old Barossa semillon is no shy schoolgirl on the nose, as its well developed and defined aromas of toast and wood are joined by what seems to be a nutty barrel ferment note. All-up its fragrance is quite dry and savoury, with only fleeting undertones of lemon citrus/lime marmalade evident. To begin, the palate is a bit sharp, flat and viscous, with the same woody/savoury features (development, not oak) as the nose making a statement, but its initial stagnancy is transformed; brought into life if you will, by a zippy, limey, commanding acidity which asserts itself in electrifying fashion, leaving a lingering note of tobacco behind. However, its authoritative balance of components does seem a tad disjointed. Whether time will improve this situation is something I can't foresee.

ü Due to my recently increased expectations of Barossa semillon (thanks to Peter Lehmann, St Hallett, Rockford, Burge Family et al.), I've possibly been a bit picky with this note, because for a $15 snap of bottle-aged Barossa semillon the 2005 Willows Vineyard hits its mission statement perfectly. It's mature and complex in a truly varietal sense, yet still agreeably fresh and zesty. Drink to 2012.

90 points

www.thewillowsvineyard.com.au

OLIVER'S TARANGA SMALL BATCH TEMPRANILLO 2009

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $32

- Screwcap (Stelvin-Lux)

- 13.0%alc

In addition to their regional 'standards' of shiraz, grenache and shiraz cabernet, Oliver's Taranga also release a limited selection of new varietals under the Small Batch label. Just 1821 bottles of their French oak matured tempranillo were made from 2009.

One of my only concerns with early examples of McLaren Vale tempranillo is that they're often more strongly regional than varietal, however, Oliver's Taranga's 2009 shows a plethora of heady varietal and ripe regional aromas. It reveals a sweet, earthy fragrance lifted by floral notes of rose petal and light spice, underneath which resides some tarry, raisined fruit, cherries and chocolate with a whiff of cured meat. There's good length of flavour to its full-medium bodied palate, as well as lithe structure, a faintly prickly finish and a pleasingly concentrated texture that toes the line between syrupy and velvety, but I just can't get past its high level of ripeness expressed through rich, dark, meaty fruit flavours. Although these characters are held in check enough (by length, texture and structure) to be enjoyable, it still lacks the brightness of fruit to suggest a decent stint in the cellar would be of benefit.

O A smooth, rich and ready to drink tempranillo whose ripe regional characteristics hinder its true varietal expression somewhat. Those who don't mind a bit of ripeness in their wines should love this, especially with a hearty beef burger. Drink to 2014.

89 points

www.oliverstaranga.com

A SECOND OPINION

I recently reviewed Pirramimma's 2010 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. Although the wine wasn't particularly suited to my tastes, I could tell there would be a market for it out there somewhere. Thanks to Grays Online, who supplied two sample bottles, I had the opportunity to pass a bottle onto someone whose tastes might more appreciate the Late Harvest Savvy style. Enter my friend of 6 years Shane, a 23 year old whisky and coke drinker who if forced to lean towards wine, would favour a moscato. Shane's enthusiasm for the complementary bottle of wine lead him to take a note on it, which I've posted below. (click on the image to enlarge).

To say the least I'm exceptionally impressed with the range of descriptors Shane has used to describe the wine, in what is his first ever tasting note, but perhaps most of all I'm glad he enjoyed it. His frank honesty is wonderfully refreshing to me. I like the line; "overall definatly a shane wine', because I for one believe there are more 'Shanes' out there drinking wine than there are 'Chris Plummers'. Shanes of the wine drinking world rejoice; Pirramimma's 2010 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc is a great little drop!

GROSSET OFF-DRY WATERVALE RIESLING 2010

- Clare Valley, SA

- $28-$36

- Screwcap

- 11.5%alc

After two straight 'failed' attempts, 2010 marks the first vintage of Grosset's Off-dry Riesling. The new label is inspired by Grosset's intentions of expanding his own range, which, as Jeff puts it himself, can be done in any of three ways; ' working with new varieties, blending old varieties, or doing new things with old varieties'. Obviously, Grosset's Off-dry Riesling represents the third of these methods.

On first inspection Grosset's Off-dry riesling reveals a floral perfume in true regional style, but its lemon/lime citrus notes, which often dominate Watervale riesling, are held in a tidy balance alongside aromas of lavender, slate and perhaps even light spice. Although there may be a suggestion of tinned pineapple in the bouquet, there's absolutely nothing sugary sweet or overtly musky. Its much talked about 16g/l of residual sugar provides a persisting softness and luscious thread to its tinned pineapple, mineral and apple cider flavours, without pushing even remotely towards cloying territory (to be expected really). Like Grosset's other 2010 rieslings, the acidity really sings a show-stealing song, by directing a long, tangy pineapple-like structure that clings to its sweet-edged riesling fruit with real zip and authority. For a wine labelled as Off-dry, it ends particularly taut and crisp, with ensuing grip applied to a very long finish.

ü+ Given the credentials of the maker, it shouldn't come as a surprise that this is the best off-dry riesling I've had from either Clare or the Eden Valley. Its smart balance of residual sweetness and acidity provides a great platform for the future of off-dry styles in both regions. Drink to 2020.

93 points

www.grosset.com

GROSSET POLISH HILL RIESLING 2010

- Clare Valley, SA

- $39-$56

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

Of all the wines now ranked 'Exceptional' by Langton's, I personally believe Grosset's Polish Hill to be the most consistent performer of the lot. Picking a favourite vintage of Grosset's icon is merely a matter of personal taste, as year in year out it never fails to impress.

The 2010 Polish Hill is notably softer and rounder on the nose than its 2010 Springvale stablemate, and although it lacks the sharp intensity of its Watervale sibling, it's still complemented by an attractively deep, perhaps more composed fragrance of pear, peach blossom, minerals and slate with a lime juice note that shows a hint of citric spritz. As romantically indicative of springtime as the fragrance is, it's completely overshadowed by a palate whose picture perfect composition of rich texture, spectacular acid structure and near infinite length lets loose a thrilling ride of great impact. White pear, slate, mineral and citrus nuances define its flavour profile well, but its domineering length, drawn out by a potent, mouth-watering acidity whose intensity washes in and out like waves crashing on a beach, is what sets this wine apart. To finish it's very austere and limey, but there's also a vivid touch of fizzy sherbet that keeps the vitality kicking till the end.

ü+ I recall Jeffrey Grosset telling me he was 'happy' with his 2010 rieslings. Forget that humble opinion, I'm borderline orgasmic over them. Drink to 2026.

97 points

www.grosset.com