A PLATE WITH POULTRY, POTATO AND A PECULIAR PRESENTATION POINT, FOR A MATURE YARRA VALLEY CHARDONNAY

Chicken, broad bean and artichoke stew, with a simple mash accompaniment. Indeed, only a sick and twisted individual would use brussels sprouts purely for presentation purposes on a dish like this. :)

WYNNS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009

- Coonawarra, SA

- $20-$35

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

It interested me to see Wynns dub their new green label cabernet sauvignon 'The Siding'. According to a winery rep, too many consumers were referring to the wine as the green label, which, in Wynns' opinion, is a bad colour to be associating with cabernet sauvignon. On the basis of some 54 vintages, black seems a much better colour match for Coonawarra cabernet.

Perhaps showing more malty notes than I recall in recent vintages, Wynns' 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon nonetheless remains typical of the label's pedigree. It presents an evenly ripened yet well contained fragrance of blackcurrants which edge slightly towards red, boosted by aromas of licorice, toasty cedar/vanilla oak and a faint thread of dry leaf; no mint. The palate itself is just so Wynns. There's a genuine depth and richness to its pulsating core of medium-medium/full bodied regional berry flavours, which although silky to commence, quickly move into a much drier, dustier landscape, forged through the finish by smatterings of dry cedar and a particularly grainy extract of gritty tannins tightly checked by cutting acids. The final impression is very dry, savoury in a mineral way and most of all, physical.

ü+ Structurally, the 2009 is a notable step up from the 2008, but the overall consistency of this wine is incredible. Wynns must possess some sort of factory line for producing flawless Coonawarra cabernet, black-toothed Oompa-Loompas and all. Drink to 2027.

92 points

www.wynns.com.au

1965: WHEN BLACK BECAME THE NEW BLACK

Wynns' famous 'Black Label' Cabernet Sauvignon actually wore a white label until 1965, the same year in which it went from being called Cabernet to Cabernet Sauvignon.

[Image courtesy of the book; Reflections: 50 Years of Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon]

MAC FORBES WOORI YALLOCK PINOT NOIR 2010

- Yarra Valley, VIC

- $60

- Screwcap

- 12.5%alc

Mac Forbes is an emerging name rightly associated with Australia's new wave of fanatical pinot noir producers. With no less than 6 individual Yarra Valley pinot noirs in his range, Mac's focus is squarely set on promoting distinguished sites within the Yarra Valley and realising the potential of each site's unique attributes. As I was feeling in need of something special today, I thought I'd splurge on the most expensive 2010 Mac Forbes Pinot Noir available, the Woori Yallock.

The Woori Yallock's name may be about as elegant as a bow-legged ballet dancer in desert boots, but its aroma is a thing of elegant bliss. It's bright yet seductively understated, with a wonderfully airy perfume of sweet, succulent cherries bonded by notes of stalk, fresh herbs, balanced spices and a lick of caramel, reflecting true Yarra elegance without a forceful impression of oak. Although lightly scented and a touch simple in its youth, it's in no way thin or dilute. The palate enters with the restrained, textural lightness of a genuinely polite pinot, before building expansively yet gracefully with intensifying meaty/cherry notes blessed by outstanding length of flavour. It reveals a finish whose wonderfully quaint tapestry of svelte, caramel tannins and slick acids glide throughout the mouth with precision, leaving a long lasting impression of utter brightness and ideal ripeness, marked by sour-edged aspects and dry touch of earth. Yep. . .

ü+ On first sip the 2010 Woori Yallock appears to be one of those pinots where less is more, but then it just grows and grows into the mouth until you're left thinking; 'Wow! Gimme some more!' Even then, I can still see this really flying in a couple of years time. Brilliant Yarra pinot. It's hit the spot nicely. Drink to 2018.

94 points

www.macforbes.com

OZ WINE TOONS

D'ARENBERG THE NOBLE WRINKLED RIESLING 2010

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $20 (375ml)

- Screwcap

- 12.3%alc

I've been relatively impressed by d'Arenberg's recent efforts with their dessert riesling. The cleverly named Noble Wrinkled now leans towards a very rich, luscious, genuinely botrytised style, which, if anything, makes me eager to see what d'Arenberg can come up with from the generally botrytis riddled 2011 vintage. I mean, even Jeffrey Grosset made a botrytis riesling this year!

Just like a good Australian stickie should, d'Arenberg's 2010 Noble Wrinkled Riesling glows aromatically, with genuine vitality and life. It hits big nectarine and spicy green melon scents right within its stylistic groove, flying into the nose with a sweet, fruity, confected fragrance punched out further by a hint of apricot marmalade on toast. Smooth and sweet, its palate delves lusciously into the mouth's depths, releasing a literal duck dive of melon and burnt caramel flavours defined by an unctuous quality and a notably sticky progression. Its finish is enlivened by a timely wash of orange/citric acids, which refresh the palate whilst leaving a lasting note of orange zest-like flavour behind.

ü+ Quite delicious and really ready to go now, d'Arenberg's 2010 Noble Wrinkled is an easy two glass dessert wine for me. Drink to 2016.

91 points

www.darenberg.com.au

MITCHELL HARRIS SHIRAZ 2009

- Pyrenees, VIC

- $29.95

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

It's always interesting to compare the work of one winemaker producing two closely priced renditions of one style for two different brands. Johnno Harris crafted a brightly fruited, delicious Pyrenees shiraz with his 2009 Mount Avoca release (92pts), which leads me to his similarly viognier influenced 2009 Mitchell Harris Shiraz (3% viognier here compared to 4.5% in the Mount Avoca).

Dark and ultra-ripe but not over-ripe, with a slight skinsy/dried apricot-like whiff of viognier, the 2009 Mitchell Harris opens to a fragrance dripping with black suggestions; plums, dates and bramble berries, perhaps tar and a sniff of white pepper, with a soft oak influence indicative of older barrels. Through the darkness roams a minor scent of dried leaf, but it's fleetingly apparent and far from defining, providing no more than a green edge to its black ball of fruit. The palate is marked by a gritty rawness, or hardness, clinging to its very dry finish, which upsets and dislodges its initially smooth and earthy movement of bright, medium-weighted forest berry flavours. With that in mind, its ideal setting might be at the dinner table for now, or possibly the cellar for later.

O For me, I much prefer the 2009 Mount Avoca Shiraz over this. It just seems a more complete, sensuous and subsequently delicious wine. But to confuse matters, here's a link to a beautifully articulated look at the two John Harris wines, from a seasoned blogger whose preference might just contradict mine. Drink 2014-2017.

89 points

www.mitchellharris.com.au

PETALUMA BRIDGEWATER MILL SHIRAZ 2009

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $17-$25

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

There was a time when Petaluma's pastel yellow was principally set aside for the company's premier wines. Now, that famous shade seems to adorn almost all Petaluma products, from the previously white labelled viognier and shiraz, to the recently released earlier drinking Hundred Line cabernet, to the second label Bridgewater Mill wines. My question is, has Petaluma manufactured a better sense of unity across their range, at the expense of the high standing of their best wines?

There's a floral lift of white pepper rising alongside fragrant, nutty/chocolatey oak from within this 2009 Shiraz, which proves quite attractive. Its nose displays calmness without a big punch of ripe fruit, revealing a deeper, reserved aromatic layer of both red and black cherry scents for balance. The palate however, doesn't quite follow suit. Whilst reasonably lively throughout, it's a bit edgier and beset by a more 'roasted' blackcurrant/red cherry-like profile, with a simple announcement of texture and weight that is somewhat overawed by a rather hard-edged, mouthfilling wash of glossy acids and gritty tannin. Some of the elements of great shiraz are present, but they just don't quite gel together. More length of fruit, stuffing and a finer, tighter stitching would've gone a long way here.

O I can't help but think this is just an 'average' Australian shiraz. For around $20, I guess that's fair enough really. Drink to 2012-2016.

88 points

www.petaluma.com.au

TAYLORS JARAMAN SHIRAZ 2009

- Clare Valley/McLaren Vale, SA

- $20-$35

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

I fear Taylors has lost a bit of focus lately. Personally, I'd love to see the brand concentrate more on creating high quality Clare Valley wines, the type which brought them to prominence in the first place, before this cross-regional blending thing (matched with heavily discounted prices) gets too out of hand. It's just one man's opinion.

The 12 months Taylors' 2009 Jaraman Shiraz spent in American oak (10% new) resonates throughout its aroma. It's lifted by a fragrant whiff of vanilla/mocha/coffee oak, which isn't without appeal, but it does slightly hinder a rather jammy/jube-like scent of raspberries and blueberries residing beneath. Interestingly, I also pick up a note of toasted marshmallow. Although reasonably smooth to touch (for the most part) and perfectly quaffable with simple red meat, pasta or pizza dishes, its palate is moved along by smooth, sweet oak, whilst still leaving a trail of warming aspects and an ill-defined fruit profile that takes on the guise of shiraz fruit compote drizzled over cooked red meat. Structurally it's quite straight forward too, but for a wine with a $30RRP, it's the all too simple flavour profile that really lets me down.

X I had a 'complimentary' bottle of De Bortoli's 2009 Willowglen Shiraz Cabernet at a Spanish restaurant last night, which I believe retails for around $5, and honestly, on the basis of enjoyment, I couldn't pick too much difference between that and this. Drink to 2015.

86 points

www.taylorswines.com.au

MANY YEARS AGO...

The label of Taylors' 1975 Clare Valley Hermitage, a champion of Australian wine shows in its day. In addition to the 3 gold and 4 silver medals mentioned here, Taylors' 1975 Hermitage also acquired one additional silver medal and 7 more bronze babies. For all its proudly flaunted achievements, notice the lack of 'bling' on the label here.

[Image courtesy of the book; 'Winemakers of the Clare Valley'. Published by Decalon, 1978.]