Friday, September 2, 2011

PETALUMA BRIDGEWATER MILL SHIRAZ 2009

- Adelaide Hills, SA
- $17-$25
- Screwcap
- 14.5%alc

There was a time when Petaluma's pastel yellow was principally set aside for the company's premier wines. Now, that famous shade seems to adorn almost all Petaluma products, from the previously white labelled viognier and shiraz, to the recently released earlier drinking Hundred Line cabernet, to the second label Bridgewater Mill wines. My question is, has Petaluma manufactured a better sense of unity across their range, at the expense of the high standing of their best wines?

There's a floral lift of white pepper rising alongside fragrant, nutty/chocolatey oak from within this 2009 Shiraz, which proves quite attractive. Its nose displays calmness without a big punch of ripe fruit, revealing a deeper, reserved aromatic layer of both red and black cherry scents for balance. The palate however, doesn't quite follow suit. Whilst reasonably lively throughout, it's a bit edgier and beset by a more 'roasted' blackcurrant/red cherry-like profile, with a simple announcement of texture and weight that is somewhat overawed by a rather hard-edged, mouthfilling wash of glossy acids and gritty tannin. Some of the elements of great shiraz are present, but they just don't quite gel together. More length of fruit, stuffing and a finer, tighter stitching would've gone a long way here.

O I can't help but think this is just an 'average' Australian shiraz. For around $20, I guess that's fair enough really. Drink to 2012-2016.
88 points


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