OZ WINE TOONS

BANNOCKBURN STUART PINOT (NOIR) 2008

- Geelong, VIC

- $57-$75

- Cork

- 13.0%alc

Over recent years I've held my reservations with Bannockburn Pinot Noir, however, the quality of Michael Glover's 2008 Chardonnay (94pts), in cohesion with an anonymous tip on this website, tells me 2008 might not be a bad time to revisit one of Australia's most decorated makers of pinot noir. After all, my opinions are only ever there to be changed.

After some of my more recent encounters with Bannockburn Pinot Noir, I was delighted to remove an exceptionally clean cork from the 2008 Stuart. Following that delight (and a spell in a decanter) came feelings of confusion and intrigue, as I edged my nose into an intense fragrance marked strongly by scents I could only describe as smoky and tinned corn-like. The corn note does integrate with time, allowing more orthodox pinot aromas of succulent red cherries and cranberry to come forward, with further suggestions of smoky bacon-like oak and a dumping of leaf litter. It's certainly more complex on the nose than it is rich or deep. Light, silky and airy, with a gentile movement, the palate presents herbal, sour-edged small red fruits up front, before revealing a smoky aspect that truly transforms its delivery of bright fruit to the back palate. Structurally, it's refreshingly acidic and quite welcoming, if somewhat lacking in aggressive intensity or chiselled definition, but once again, like the nose, I hold a question over the palate's depth. To think positively though, I must say it's undeniably complex and it just might improve with a touch more time.

O Much like the 2010 pinots of a certain Adelaide Hills producer, I can see the 2008 Stuart dividing opinion. It's undoubtedly complex, fragrant, textured and varietal, but it clearly lacks wow factor at its RRP for me. Drink 2013 to 2014.

90 points

www.bannockburnvineyards.com

BAY OF FIRES RIESLING 2010

- Derwent River Valley/Coal River Valley, TAS

- $21-$32

- Screwcap

- 12.0%alc

Bay of Fires may be one of Tasmania's best makers of pinot noir and chardonnay, but when it comes to riesling, I feel the corporately owned brand falls behind the likes of Freycinet and Pipers Brook, who admittedly, source their riesling from completely different parts of the state (hint hint towards the more specific regional labelling of Tasmanian wine).

There's a pleasingly flinty, lightly spicy fragrance of crisp apples, white fruit and citrus pith emanating from Bay of Fires' 2010 Riesling, which opens to a moderately juicy, flavoursome palate characterised by white pears, commercial grade apple juice and a brittle, zesty acidity reminiscent of lemon/lime sherbet. I mention commercial grade apple juice because I detect a faint sweetness to its fruit flavour, but it's far from overwhelming, whilst it actually bodes quite well with a relatively tangy, lively finish.

O From one of the state's biggest names comes this Tasmanian riesling with plenty of crossover appeal. However, I'd be interested to know how many consumers (re-?) discovering riesling would be willing to fork out $25 or $30 for a wine from Tasmania, when there's so many alternatives available from the Clare and Eden Valleys for less. Drink to 2015.

90 points

www.bayoffires.com.au

PENFOLDS THOMAS HYLAND CHARDONNAY 2010

- South Australia

- $13-$22

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

If someone had told me 5 years ago I'd be calling chardonnay Penfolds' most consistent performer in 2011, I might've told them to go jump in a lake of Bin 65. Of particular merit is Penfolds' recent efforts with the lower end Thomas Hyland, which now makes a serious claim to being Australia's most reliable (mass-market) $15 chardonnay.

Not sure why Thomas Hyland Chardonnay has replaced the words 'Cool Climate' with 'Adelaide' on the front label (Hills fruit mainly?), but it still shows plenty of bang for your buck, with its winemaker derived creamed hazelnut and soft vanilla oak aromas mixing it up nicely with tickles of grapefruit and spice, in an ably balanced, rich, bright and crisp style. It's ultra clean and clear in the mouth, revealing true mineral refinement for the dollar, however, there's also a lovely undertone of yeasty/leesy characters providing ample richness and flavour to its creamy palate, which is driven pleasingly long by a bright spark of finely honed in, tangy, perhaps pineapple-like acidity, reflecting all the winemaking polish you'd expect from a modern Penfolds chardonnay.

ü+ Another step up from what must be one of Penfolds' under recognised, yet ever improving labels. You'd be very hard pressed to beat this for a $14 Australian chardonnay at a supermarket chain. Drink to 2014.

91 points

www.penfolds.com

PENFOLDS GRANGE 2006

- South Australia

- $550-$660

- Cork

- 14.5%alc

Off the back of two spectacular releases from 2002 (97pts) and 2004 (98pts), I rate Grange custodian Peter Gago highly for his achievements with Grange thus far. The current vintage, 2006, might not be from as fancied a shiraz vintage as the previous two wines mentioned, but it was a good year nonetheless, and I feel its seasonal conditions might just of suited the 'Grange style' even better.

Perhaps constricted at first, the 2006 Grange swirls open with a bit of air, revealing a tightly knit scent of very fine-grained, lightly spicy cedar/mocha oak, pumped up by an impressively deep, complex array of Barossa shiraz character. Aromas of licorice, earth, dark plums and berries, roast meats, white pepper, cherry cola and sarsaparilla maybe, all emerge in the display, but its character laden fragrance is ultimately even and terribly inviting, with not a hair out of place. Initially, it enters the palate in a surprisingly silky, sensuous manner, before a downright authoritative tannin structure takes shape. Growing waves of ultra-fine, powdery tannins ensconce its youthful Grange notes of dark berries, soy, licorice and nutty/chocolate oak, with a refreshing hit of sour-edged fruit rearing its head towards the finish. It's uncompromisingly deep yet practically medium-bodied, proving itself surprisingly elegant, drinkable and just so, so balanced. Its 'fanned-out', 'peacock's tail' of a finish remains the most defining feature, but then there's the harmony and guaranteed longevity...

ü The 2006 Grange is one of the most balanced expressions of South Australian shiraz you could imagine, but clearly, its best years are yet to come. That isn't to say it isn't drinking well now, because it possesses a sensuous, medium weighted feel and ultra, ultra-fine tannin structure, combining to make it an incredible (and expensive) temptation. Just chalk up another one for Mr Gago. Drink to 2046.

97 points

www.penfolds.com

PENFOLDS 2011 ICON AND LUXURY RELEASE

If you're ever around Adelaide come Grange release day, I'd wholeheartedly recommend a trip to Magill Estate. There's an air of festivity and excitement around Penfolds on Grange release day, like a child (or the next king?) has just been born. Everyone's happy and everyone has something to say.

Sure, Penfolds charge $25 for a tasting of Grange, when the major retailers offer free samplings to mark the occasion, but the samples offered by the retailers look rather pathetic compared to what you get at Magill - I swear I almost accidentally inhaled one of those store issued Grange samples once. Up at Penfolds, 'half a glass' might be doing an injustice to the generous pours dished out by their ever friendly cellar door staff. It's $25 well spent if you ask me, and I look forward to it lightening my wallet every year.

Additionally, if you get to Penfolds later in the day, you'll find no crowds, no lines, a relaxed atmosphere, wines served in Riedels and service with a smile. It's much better than fighting 150 people for 100 pours, all at once.

Oh yeah, there's also another $790 worth of wine, across 6 bottles, available to taste on the day, completely free of charge. Just keep an eye on the cellar door prices here though, because RRP isn't exactly 'recommended' for Penfolds. You might have heard of these other labels...

Penfolds tasting notes are posted below

Penfolds Reserve Bin 09A Chardonnay 2009 ($90) Adelaide Hills. Wow! Toasty, toasty, toasty nose! Smoky popcorn-like oak and touches of spice dominate the nose, with a minimal fruit profile. It's an ultimately lean, restrained and texture driven palate, with touches of citrus, minerals and spice, with a tightening finish. Given the spectacular results of the previous two vintages, I just expected something a little more sumptuously fruited. 92

Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2008 ($130) Tasmania/Adelaide Hills. Simultaneously pungent and restrained on the nose, seemingly the result of some beautifully clean, cool climate fruit - minerals, grapefruit and light spice. The palate however, can't be mistaken, it's rich, round, full, creamy and sumptuous to drink, with delicious creamed hazelnut and white peach flavours marked by a notably tangy finish. 94

Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2007 ($90) From a low yielding vintage, a veritable who's who of South Australian regions went into this one; check - Robe (30%), McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Padthaway, Barossa Valley, Coonawarra and Adelaide Hills. Bright, sour-edged red plums, cherries, blueberries and white pepper on the nose, in St Henri's typically fruit expressive style, but it just seems a bit simple, lacking the depth and complexity of the top vintages. Its palate is also slightly unusual, young and elemental perhaps? It's brightly flavoured and sour-edged, but it's also a bit jammy, without being over ripe. It drinks alright in a simpler fashion, but at this price, I can't say I'm totally convinced. 90

Penfolds Magill Estate Shiraz 2008 ($115) Adelaide Metro - $15 price hike. Although not particularly lively on the nose, there appears to be a concentration of good fruit - condensed cassis, cherries and dark plums with nutty/mocha oak adding a savoury edge. Its palate is medium-bodied, very silky, ripe and long, with plenty of finesse to its dark fruit flavours. It's a good '08, which edges ripeness but stays within the lines. 93

Penfolds RWT Shiraz 2008 ($175) Barossa Valley. Smoky, savoury oak most evident on the nose, with plump plums and roast meats beneath. It's deep, rich and ultimately satisfying, in that truest Barossan sense. It's a smooth, juicy '08, with the red and black fruits common to the vintage's better wines, finished off by great length of fruit, tidy tannins and a general even balance throughout. Penfolds have done well here, and this should age particularly well. 94

Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($190) Coonawarra, Barossa Valley and Wrattonbully. The news of a Special Bin 620 Cabernet Shiraz from Coonawarra's 2008 vintage had me particularly anxious to try this wine, usually my favourite from Penfolds top end. There's a fresh, perfectly pitched and certainly not overdone touch of mint on the nose (Wrattonbully maybe?), siding with a bright, rich core of blackberries and dark plums, given a further lift by a floral note. Spicy cedar/mocha oak too. The palate is true Bin 707 yet again. Dark, brooding, powerful, typically rich and flavoursome, it thrusts through the mouth with true intensity and a massive bone structure, imparting incredible dryness and spectacular length. 96

Penfolds Grange 2006 ($600) Barossa Valley shiraz with a touch of Magill shiraz. 2% cabernet. Probably not as gang-bustingly brilliant as the 2004, but certainly comparable to the excellent 2002, albeit within the context of its own vintage. In fact, it's everything you'd expect from the label and the season really - a fine match. Another long term classic in the making. (reviewed separate post). 97

MOOROODUC ESTATE MCINTYRE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2008

- Mornington Peninsula, VIC

- $36

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Established in 1981, Moorooduc Estate was one of the early comers to Victoria's Mornington Peninsula, a region whose modern impressions of chardonnay and pinot noir vie for the title of Australia's best. In keeping with current trends (and the Mornington's elite), Moorooduc Estate now releases a smart collection of single vineyard selections.

Sweetly fruited and mineral, yet doubtlessly touched by man, the 2008 McIntyre Vineyard shows a contrasting assortment of complex chardonnay scents. A wafer-like scent of nutty vanilla oak lingers confidently in the glass, but it's matched by bold aromas of punchy peaches, melons and lemon butter, with a slight suggestion of sweetness providing the punch. In the mouth it's a bit edgy and nervy, with an undisciplined energy that flies along a course of dry, cutting acids, revealing a hint of rawness in the upper reaches. This energy creates a slick and fast, if perhaps unsettled movement, however, its texture's spot on, as is its flavour, which reflects mineral and lemon butter notes that move onto something more leesy, white nectarine and vanilla-like, before the lengthy tightening process begins. If you're keen on a bit of verve in your chardonnay this might work for you, otherwise, give it a quick decant.

O The 2008 McIntyre Vineyard Chardonnay is one of those wines where if I saw it in another year or two, I'd probably give it another point or two, but right now, I'm calling it as I see it. Drink 2013-2015.

91 points

www.moorooducestate.com.au

A TERRIBLY AMBITIOUS ENTREE FOR A NERVY YOUNG MORNINGTON CHARDONNAY

Casey's Lamb Tartare (recipe borrowed from

a Mr J. Oliver)

Served on a grilled sourdough crisp bread, this organic lamb back strap tartare is flavoured with gherkin, dijon mustard, freshly squeezed lemon and orange juice, chilli, fresh mint and olive oil.

I've been on a bit of a tartare trip lately. Well, I've had it 3 times this year, which is a lot for me. :) On all 3 occasions I've had it with relatively young, 'anxious' chardonnays. Admittedly, the pairing wasn't my idea originally (it was Casey's), and I can't find anything to suggest it's an orthodox match, but it just seems to work, both reasonably and surprisingly. The complex flavours and rich mouthfeel of chardonnay seemingly play in harmony to the simultaneously moist and crisp (cracker or crisp provided), complex, fresh characters of a tartare like the one pictured, while the young white wine's nervy acidity cuts cleanly through the fat and oil.

For interest, the other chardonnays I've drunk with tartare dishes have been Shaw and Smith's 2008 M3 and Stefano Lubiana's 2009 Primavera, but the one I dream about pairing with tartare is Bindi's 2009 Composition. I just can't find a bottle in Adelaide anymore.... :(

HARDYS OOMOO SPARKLING SHIRAZ 2004

- Clare Valley, SA

- $15-$25

- Cork

- 14.0%alc

If you happen to be a thrifty sparkling red aficionado who's tried Leasingham's terrific 2004 Classic Clare Sparkling Shiraz, then you'll be happy to know there's another, cheaper 2004 Clare Valley sparkling shiraz currently available from the Hardys group. On a more personal note, I'm not sure I appreciate the way Oomoo has spread its wings so far beyond McLaren Vale now, but the value for money in this wine is nothing to sneer at.

Paying homage to its superb vintage, the 2004 Oomoo Sparkling Shiraz lets loose a glowing array of purple plum, mulberry and cherry aromas, all lifted with radiant vitality for its age. There are sly hints of soft spice, shaved chocolate and a developing leathery edge too, which coat its primary fruits with savoury grace. Brightly flavoured and fresh as a daisy, the palate hits all the right spots within its context. It pumps out a deliciously medium-bodied, smooth and somewhat elegant arrangement of vivid varietal fruits with earthy, aniseedy undertones, complemented by a fair caress of finesse throughout the movement. Wrapped up by a fine conclusion which tightens right on cue, its finish is properly balanced and dry, presenting a wonderful persistence of sweet fruit and vanilla oak, which eventually give way to farewell notes of cola and dry leaf. A little bit of time and air only enlightens the experience.

ü+ $16 and 7 years old already? I'll be damned! Hardys' 2004 Oomoo is as good a sub-$20 sparkling red as I can recall. I'd love to see it in another 3-5 years, it's that good. Drink to 2016.

92 points

www.hardys.com.au

BROWN BROTHERS SPECIAL LATE HARVESTED ORANGE MUSCAT AND FLORA 2010

- Murray Darling, VIC

- $7-$15 (375ml)

- Screwcap

- 10.0%alc

As far as $10 stickies go, Brown Brothers' little sweetie is among the few I'm quite happy to drink. It's a relatively simple, late harvest style, creatively blended from 2 rare varieties. So unique is the blend of orange muscat (a member of the muscat family) and flora (a hybrid of semillon and gewurztraminer), that the back label even brandishes the Brown Brothers 'World Exclusive' tag.

There's a floral, moscato-like scent of musk emanating from Brown Brothers' 2010, with hints of orange/lemon zest and lychee juice adding interest to a carefully sweetened bouquet. Although matching the nose with a fairly sweet and simple profile, the palate shows a surprisingly concentrated thread of cool, rich flavour for its price, as it unwinds to a taste of stonefruit marmalade refreshingly lifted by notes of lemon citrus and a trail of lychee juice to pass. Its length achieves a pass mark, but it is fractionally tart to linger, however, it remains refreshing enough to down a whole glass (or two!) and at the price, there's little to complain about. It's definitely one to drink well chilled though.

ü Brown Brothers' continued perseverance with this wine shows in the 2010, which balances a surprising richness with refreshing acids and clean flavours. Bargain. Drink to 2013.

88 points

www.brownbrothers.com.au