Friday, August 6, 2010

DOMAINE A PINOT NOIR 2006

- Coal River Valley, TAS
- $68-$75
- Cork
- 14.5%alc

Southern Tasmania's Domaine A make some of the most spectacular wines you'll find from the Apple Isle. Although they're best known for a fabulously unique cabernet sauvignon, Domaine A also make one of Australia's finest (wooded) sauvignon blancs and a superlative pinot noir. These wines may be difficult to find (just 385 dozen of the 2006 Pinot Noir made) but by all accounts they're well worth the effort.

Dark and deeply coloured, the 2006 Domaine A opens up to herbal, meaty and dark fruited aromas with complex, underlying notes of menthol, caramel and fragrant vanilla oak adding freshness and intrigue. On the palate it's pure pinot, with a soft, supple, delicate core of leathery dark cherries and spiced game meats expressed with exceptional fragility and a coating of toasty black truffle-like oak. It finishes very fine, long and truly dry, with a tight structural outline combining lithe, zippy acidity with a dry, dusty tannic backbone that intensifies in waves.

ü+ Successfully marrying complex flavours and aromas with understated feel and classic, assertive structure; this is a wonderful, true enthusiasts pinot noir. Great cellaring potential. Drink to 2016.
95 points


Thursday, August 5, 2010

HEGGIES RIESLING 2010

- Eden Valley, SA
- $15-$22
- Screwcap
- 12.0%alc

2010 rieslings are starting to flow freely now and as usual Heggies is among the first cabs off the rank. Heggies' Riesling experienced an earlier, more compressed vintage this year compared to last (2010 harvest dates: March 2-6, 2009 harvest dates: March 12-28), but admittedly, the 2009 (90pts) wasn't one of my favourites. For interest, my favourite recent Heggies; the 2005 (95pts), was harvested between March 26th and April 1st that year.

Brightly scented and faintly musky, the 2010 Heggies presents classically floral, green apple, white pear and lime aromas with a minor suggestion of tropical fruit. Its spotless palate reveals the label's typical clarity but delivers its mouthfilling lemon/lime citrus and crisp apple flavours in a slightly more luscious fashion than usual. There's a touch of austerity interspersed through powdery, zingy citric acids in its finish, but it's contradicted and restrained somewhat by lingering, saturated fruit flavours underpinned by a lovely note of wet stone.

ü+ The 2010 is a more sumptuous, saturated Heggies Riesling with all of its regional traits still gladly in attendance. Drink to 2018.
92 points


Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Sunday, August 1, 2010

MCWILLIAM'S MORNING LIGHT BOTRYTIS SEMILLON 2007

- Riverina, NSW
- $20-$28
- Screwcap
- 12.0%alc

New South Wales' inland Riverina district produces several benchmark expressions of Australian botrytis semillon. Apart from the obvious selection of De Bortoli's ever popular Noble One, McWilliam's also make a Riverina sticky that's worth a look for those in search of something different.

Showing a deep, rich golden-brown colour, the 2007 Morning Light opens to an equally rich nose scented with burnt toffee, apricots and marzipan with an assertive influence of vanilla oak evident throughout. On the palate it's also very rich, forward and unctuous, with a thick, lusciously set expression of honey, ripe stonefruit and marmalade flavour that enters with conviction. However, the finish lacks classic shape and freshness, as its fairly impressive length is drawn out more by enduring burnt toffee and dried apricot notes than clean, refreshing acidity, but it still makes for a very enjoyable, luscious dessert wine to be consumed over the shorter term.

ü McWilliam's 2007 Morning Light is a good sticky but if you have the money I'd opt for the 2007 Noble One instead, or if you don't have the money I'd go for the 2006 Gramps. Both of those should be more commonplace than this wine as well. Drink to 2012.
90 points


Friday, July 30, 2010

IS IGNORANCE BLISS?

I've long been of the belief that those with a distinguished sense of taste are somewhat cursed. Cursed to live a life spending much more money on luxuriant food and drinks than is ever necessary.

To some, the idea of a perfect meal is a well composed Big Mac, crisp fries and an ice cold coke, or perhaps even a chicken parmy with a pint of ale as a chaser. But to someone more like myself, the ideal gastronomic experience might involve something much more expensive; say, 8 courses, covering everything from lobster to foie gras, white truffle to wagyu, to Giaconda to Grange; just to garner the same amount of enjoyment others may find in a chicken parmigiana and beer.

It's ridiculous how many times I've spent over $100 on a meal in my relatively short life (there's another one coming up tonight...), whereas I still associate with people who consider $40 for a meal beyond reason. By the time I've passed, I'd hate to recount how much more money I would've blown on the extravagant side of food and drinks than others. Ah, where all that money could have gone.

.....................

To bring the idea of 'ignorance is bliss' into a wine context I'm comparing the opinions of 2 wines across 2 different people, each with differing wine experience.

For the first case I'm comparing the opinions of my close friend Casey and myself, in reference to an $80/doz cleanskin Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir we sampled together recently.

After tasting the cleanskin pinot Casey remarked;
"I like it Plummer. I'm buying two boxes. What do you think?"

Then, in my typical wine-snobberish manner, I responded with;
"Its palate seems unconvincing, forward, short and abrupt, and it's over-ripe."

Casey walked away with two boxes a happy man (still to this day, and he's nearly down to one box). Clearly Casey was analysing the wine in a simpler context to me, as I was probably looking too deep into a $7 pinot to gain any genuine enjoyment. Whatever the case, Casey found much more pleasure in the wine than I did.

.....................

For the second case I'm comparing my own review of Curly Flat's 2006 Pinot Noir, with that of one of Australia's most respected, experienced and influential wine writers; Jeremy Oliver.

Of the 206 Curly Flat, a line of my review reads;
'From within its great depth an undercarriage of meaty garden herbs begins to emerge, projecting superb length of fruit onto an already exquisite palate.' 96 points

While in Jeremy Oliver's 2010 Australian Wine Annual, a line of his review reads;
'There is however a thread throughout the wine of a light herbal presence and a hint of raisin, suggesting a slightly uneven ripeness.' 91 points

Amazingly, the extracts here point towards a very similar quality we both found in the Curly Flat, but how Jeremy Oliver perceived this character was completely different to me. In retrospect I can see how my 'meaty garden herbs' might equate to his 'slightly uneven ripeness', but by Jove I still thoroughly enjoyed the wine at the time. Obviously my ignorance, or failure, to detect uneven ripeness in the Curly Flat allowed me to enjoy it much more than Jeremy Oliver did (as evident by the scores), whose experienced wine evaluation skills allowed him to pick out a technical fault in a pinot I simply sat back and marvelled at in amateurish fashion.

Is fine sense of taste a curse?


KNAPPSTEIN SHIRAZ 2008

- Clare Valley, SA
- $16-$26
- Screwcap
- 14.5%alc

Knappstein were among the lucky ones with their 2008 Shiraz. Having picked their grapes between the 20th and 26th of February, they were fortunate to avoid the 15 straight days of 35+ degree heat endured between the 3rd and 17th of March that season.

With a small addition of malbec (4%), this ripe, jammy shiraz combines aromas of black plums, red cherries and prunes with a faint, earthy spice tone and sweet chocolate/cedar oak. Mirroring the soft, jammy qualities of the nose, its sweetly fruited and oaked palate reveals a medium-bodied expression of simple, ripe berry and plum flavours with a sprinkling of cinnamon, which extend with sweet oak undertones and a finish that shows a little tightness and grip at the very end.

O Although Knappstein's 2008 does condense and tighten its components somewhat with extended aeration, it's still a fairly soft, jammy and simply structured shiraz that reflects its seasons difficulties. Drink to 2014.
87 points


Tuesday, July 27, 2010

SOME YOUNG PUNKS MONSTERS, MONSTERS ATTACK! RIESLING 2010

- Clare Valley, SA
- $17-$23
- Screwcap
- 11.0%alc

Since their inception, I've aspired to one day meet the team behind Some Young Punks. The words 'young' and 'punks' aren't usually associated with wine types, but perhaps accordingly, they're two words that have often been thrown my way.

Baring a complete name with as many characters as some of Europe's linguistically challenging rieslings (albeit translating to something completely different), this lifted, floral and musky Clare riesling presents an attractively feminine perfume blessed by sweet-edged notes of lychee, rose petal, apple blossom and musk stick. Its happily clean and clear palate announces rich and luscious, sweet musk, lychee and rose oil tones in a sticky, almost moscato-like manner, but then there's a much welcomed, firm influence of Clare's tightening acidity, which prevents excessive cloying whilst accompanying the wine towards a long finish punctuated by citrus tart flavour. Supposedly there's some oak here, but with the obvious residual sweetness I can't really tell.

O From packaging to palate, this is a thoroughly modern riesling with assertive feministic attitude. However, I think it's trying to be a wine that would 'tear down the building, just to pass through the door'*, when really it's more of a 'like ants in a colony it does its share, but there's so many other insects out there.'** I like it though, and I'm sure some young girls will too. Drink to 2015.
88 points


Monday, July 26, 2010

SEPPELT ORIGINAL SPARKLING SHIRAZ 2006

- Victoria
- $13-$25
- Cork
- 13.5%alc

The Original Sparkling Shiraz seems to be as mandatory in Australian wine lists as the words 'moving forward' are in a Julia Gillard speech. Whether you like the Original's style or not, it's undeniable that it's been the benchmark sub-$20 sparkling red for so long now, that it's even become a house fizzer in the exclusive members area at Adelaide Oval Tests.

Vibrantly coloured yet very shy on first sniff, the 2006 Seppelt presents a rather subdued nose scented with cherry cola and dark plums backed by creamy vanilla/mocha oak with a mere suggestion of leathery development. Entering with syrup-like texture, its palate reveals straight forward, bright flavours of small berry and plum fruits with white pepper, framed by a soft drink-like effervescence which is overcome by dry, biting tannins. It's a shade lighter than some of the label's recent releases, and although it isn't terribly deep, rich or complex, it does finish with lingering notes of cherry and enough (well judged) persevering sweetness to see it gain broad appeal.

ü Not a sparkling red to convert doubters of the style, but a typically wise choice for anyone holding onto no more than a 20. Drink with good company. Drink to 2014.
89 points


Saturday, July 24, 2010

PENFOLDS MAGILL ESTATE SHIRAZ 2007

- Adelaide Metropolitan, SA
- $80-$120
- Screwcap
- 14.5%alc

Penfolds' Magill Estate could claim to represent one of the most unique expressions of Australian terroir around. Sourced from a very old, single vineyard in Adelaide's sophisticated eastern suburbs, there isn't really another wine or regional neighbour to compare it against.

Ripe, meaty and rustic, the 2007 Magill Estate shows the tell-tale signs of its difficult season, yet remains evenly balanced throughout. Taking time to open, it slowly unravels a surprisingly bright nose of dark plum, soy, red licorice and white pepper aromas cloaked in a polished presence of nutty mocha/vanilla oak. Medium-full bodied and ably concentrated, its velvety palate packs a dark, rustic core of fleshy black plum and roast meat flavour, which lengthen underneath a grainy extract of dry, mouth-puckering tannins and clean acids. It finishes very long and firm, and although there are savoury elements of clove and cinnamon spice evident, there's also a hint of ultra-ripe, tart fruit.

O Penfolds' resources and experience with the vineyard have courted out a nice 2007 here, but it's still a little difficult to recommend at $100r.r.p. There's more than sufficient structure and balance to suggest it'll develop for some time yet, so I'd just sit and wait. Drink to 2022.
91 points


MAGILL ESTATE VINEYARD

Penfolds' 5.2 hectare Magill Estate vineyard, complete with the sprawl of Adelaide's suburban housing in the background. This site was once much larger than it is today, but Penfolds controversially sold off a section of the original vineyard in 1982. Interestingly enough, the first modern incarnation of Magill Estate Shiraz came from the 1983 vintage.