LEABROOK ESTATE RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2007

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $33

- Screwcap

- 13.7%alc

Colin Best's flagship wine, his Reserve Pinot Noir, makes for some interesting discussion at $33 a bottle. Depending on your point of view, it could be considered generously priced; or perhaps even loosely titled. Either way, $33 is very cheap for a reserve level Adelaide Hills pinot noir made at one of the region's finest wineries.

Translucent dark red/amber in colour, Leabrook's 2007 Reserve reveals a dark nose beset with savoury scents of stems and charry, raw oak overlying herbal-edged, blackened cherries. Medium-full and long, its firm, rustic palate delivers savoury earth, sawdust and red licorice flavours ensconced in toasty cedar oak, with dry spice and fennel notes emanating throughout a bone-dry finish thoroughly gripped by fine-grained, prickly pinot tannins.

ü+ Like a lot of good pinots, Leabrook Estate's 2007 Reserve is difficult to pin down with adjectives. It's structurally in check, tight, dry and savoury; yet it should soften nicely over ensuing years. It's good value too. Drink 2011-2014.

91 points

www.leabrookestate.com

HARDYS OOMOO SHIRAZ 2008

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $11-$20

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

Hardys' Oomoo has been one of my go to labels for cheap Australian shiraz for several years now. However, the recent announcement of Constellation's axing of a further 70 employees from their Reynella HQ has left a faintly bitter taste in my mouth before this bottle's even been opened. Then on top of that came today's news of Hardys offering voluntary redundancies to 20 staff at the Tintara winery, in a move signifying Constellation's intentions of downsizing a McLaren Vale site steeped in history. Tough times...

Initially tighter in its aromatic profile than one might expect, the 2008 Oomoo Shiraz eventually opens to black plum and prune notes underpinned by resonant whiffs of tar/treacle, baked earth and meaty cherries. Notably thick and rich, its palate reveals a meaty expression of over-ripe dark fruit/currant characters, which lack freshness and vitality. It finishes with slightly astringent baked fruit undertones and a simple structure marked by sour-edged acidity, and it should certainly be drunk over the shorter term.

O Unlike some of the label's better wines, the 2008 Oomoo doesn't rise from the pack of cheap South Australian shiraz. Drink to 2013.

87 points

www.hardys.com.au

OZ WINE TOONS

HAHNDORF HILL WINERY CHARDONNAY 2008

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $28

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

2008 marks the first release of Hahndorf Hill Chardonnay since the richly flavoured, butterscotch-accented 2004 (92pts). If you speak to the people at Hahndorf Hill, they'll tell you their chardonnay pairs very well with 66% cocoa bitter dark chocolate, and I'd have to agree!

Funky fruit aromas of fig, melon and cumquat rise from the glass of Hahndorf Hill's 2008 Chardonnay, alongside lesser notes of white nectarine, peach fuzz and butter oak. Plush and creamy, its well-rounded, generous palate delivers upfront, brassy fruit flavours with a clean, soft finish defined by nuances of sour cream, nuts and tangerine-like acids.

O Having tasted this wine both with and without bitter dark chocolate, I can say it drinks a lot better with the chocolate. Interestingly, the bitter chocolate seems to add backbone and a dry, savoury quality to the combined experience, which the wine sadly lacks when consumed alone. It's not bad though, but as I've said before, Australian chardonnay is a competitive marketplace these days. Drink to 2013.

89 points

www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

WOLF BLASS GOLD LABEL CHARDONNAY 2005

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $16-$25

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

By my last count there's presently 9 different label colours in the Wolf Blass range (red, yellow, green, silver, gold, grey/ex-brown, white, black and platinum). What's next? Pink Label Moscato? Fawn Label Pinot Grigio? Anyway, onto the wine. If you ask me, the Gold Label Chardonnay usually offers some of the best value drinking from within the Wolf Blass technicolour dreamcoat.

Ripe, peachy, punchy and pungent, this 5 year old chardonnay presents creamy aromas of nectarine, melon, grapefruit and wheatmeal with an oak influence that's settled nicely into its fruit over time. Full, round and fat, its rich palate displays an extravagant level of creamy extract, with bold yet soft varietal fruit flavours marked by really gentle acids and a lingering note of burnt, lemon infused creme brulee.

ü Three years on from my last review (May '07-91pts) and this hasn't gained too much in the way of complexity, but it has evolved into an extremely generously proportioned chardonnay with a very soft structure. Drink now.

90 points

www.wolfblass.com.au

MAJELLA THE MUSICIAN CABERNET SHIRAZ 2009

- Coonawarra, SA

- $13-$20

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

In just a few vintages Majella's Musician blend has set a new benchmark for Coonawarra quaffers. Part of its success is due to minimal oak handling in the winery (usually 3-4 months), a practice which allows Majella's expressive regional fruit to shine through in a glorious, radiant manner.

Glowing red/purple, the 2009 Musician literally blows away uplifting aromas of minty blackcurrants, dark plums, chocolate and vanilla, with all the richness and generosity expected of the maker. Soft and gentle on entry, its medium-bodied palate reveals a fluffy expression of vibrantly fruited regional character, before finishing generously long and dry with lingering nuances of warm, sweet fruit and a tight hold of vivid acids complemented by just enough tannins to balance.

ü Although not terribly complex, deep or concentrated, this is brighter than the sun's backside and just perfect for early drinking. Drink to 2014.

89 points

www.majellawines.com.au

MINKO PINOT NOIR 2008

- Fleurieu Peninsula, SA

- $25

- Screwcap

- 13.0%alc

Minko is a small, family based winery whose wine business revolves around a 13 year old, 10 hectare vineyard planted at Mount Compass in the southern Fleurieu Peninsula. Its 2008 Pinot Noir (made by McLaren Vale's James Hastwell at Hawker's Gate) certainly impressed popular critic James Halliday, who awarded the $25 wine a lofty 95 points.

Slightly hazy and bright red, its rather withheld nose reveals a prominent note of beetroot backed by more savoury, reserved aromas of cherry, earth and cinnamon with restrained, toasty oak. Appropriately weighted in a medium-light sense, its palate is held in check by a lithe outline of faintly sour, zippy pinot acids and soft yet dry tannins. It's pleasingly composed and elegant, with a balanced finish that announces a rich push of earth and spearmint flavours with gentle spice, yet no rawness or hardness whatsoever.

ü+ Minko's 2008 clearly states the benefit of fastidious, small-scale winemaking for pinot noir. If Tapanappa's 2008 was downright sexy, then this is quite cute. It's also a big win for me on 3 different levels; for its price, for its region and for South Australia. Drink to 2014.

90 points

www.minkowines.com

MOUNT PLEASANT ELIZABETH SEMILLON 2006

- Lower Hunter Valley, NSW

- $10-$21

- Screwcap

- 10.5%alc

Those who follow Hunter semillon certainly would've noticed the recent release of Mount Pleasant's 2006 Elizabeth precedes that of the 2005. Mount Pleasant's cellar door assures me the 2005 will be released, but because of the show medals it's already amassed its release date has been set back indefinitely.

Already quite evolved, the 2006 Elizabeth presents oodles of kero/toasty development on first sniff, with a mid-straw colour that foretells a dry, savoury fragrance of grilled nuts, lanolin and cooking oil backed by a stagnant citrus tone. Seemingly lacking vitality and true harmony of its components, its rather flat palate reveals forward, developing toast and grapefruit characters marked by mineral/spritz nuances, which end abruptly with a loose formation of zingy acids. As a plus its classically moderate alcohol enables it to flow down the palate with ease.

O Unfortunately, this is the second vintage of screw-capped Elizabeth which hasn't fully met my expectations. It's easy to see why it was brought forward. Now, I'll just sit back and wait to see why the 2005 was pushed back. Drink to 2011.

87 points

www.mcwilliams.com.au

WENDOUREE CABERNET MALBEC 2006

- Clare Valley, SA

- $85

- Cork

- 13.7%alc

Few names excite Australian wine enthusiasts as much as Wendouree; an old fashioned producer whose association with long living reds is practically unmatched in this country. Wendouree's focus is squarely set on grape growing and winemaking, opposing both assertive marketing and self promotion. This point is personified by their traditional bottles, which still display no back label, no contact details and no internet address. How awesome is that?

After 4 hours in the decanter this perfumed and musky young Wendouree opens to powerfully fragrant, multi-faceted aromas of blackberry, plums and rhubarb underscored by more complex accompaniments of earth, game, gumleaf, dried herbs and clove with a polite influence of clean, fresh cedar/vanilla oak. Astoundingly deep, rich and harmonious, its layered, voluminous palate reveals a velvety mouthfeel absolutely packed with moderately juicy, condensed flavours of black bramble berries and malbec derived earth and game coated in polished cedar/vanilla oak. It unfolds down the palate in a savoury, firming and agreeably dry manner, with a surprisingly sensuous, whole mouth coating of silky, fine-grained tannins underpinned by a lingering richness of game, herb and blackberry flavour.

ü+ Like a lot of Wendouree's recent reds the 2006 Cabernet Malbec is much more approachable in its youth than the label's reputation suggests, but it still contains the expected depth and balance of ancient vine material to see it to age effortlessly towards the long term. Drink to 2031.

96 points

WENDOUREE VINEYARD

There are few more apt terms for the Wendouree vineyard than 'national treasure'. Originally planted in 1892 just 3km south of Clare, this ancient vineyard has produced as many deeply flavoured, powerful and most of all long living expressions of Australian wine as any other. Thank heavens it's still in good hands!

p.s. if you do venture down Wendouree Road towards this extremely significant vineyard, just be sure to keep an eye out for rabbits!