OZ WINE TOONS

BROKENWOOD HUNTER VALLEY SHIRAZ 2007

- Lower Hunter Valley, NSW

- $29-$42

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

I recall an old wine saying that goes; 'the Hunter Valley produces Australia's best shiraz, but only once every 20 years.' Given some favourable recent vintages (2007 in particular), growing consumer enthusiasm for the style and the Hunter's current crop of talented winemakers, I think we could safely reduce that figure now.

Oh yeah; perfectly even, ripe, simultaneously bright and savoury, Brokenwood's 2007 Shiraz throws up a handsome swagger of dry scents initially; pencil shavings and multi-faceted cedar/vanilla/chocolate oak, with an extremely attractive core of leather-edged, juicy red and blackcurrants and licorice pumping up the attraction even more. It smells of wicked, bright and ripe Hunter shiraz, but the palate takes things up a notch again. It drives a near perfect, direct line of classically elegant, medium-weighted regional flavours, balancing bright, juicy berries and red plums with earth, licorice and a hint of leather, before a long, dry, truly fine finish continues the vibrant display with a lithe acidity and lingering savoury/smoky aspects. From first sniff to lively aftertaste, its composition is superb.

ü+ Just a brilliantly styled Hunter Valley shiraz, particularly considering its price. I'm already planning my next trip to the bottle shop to buy out their remaining stocks. Drink to 2022.

95 points

www.brokenwood.com.au

CORIOLE VITA RESERVE SANGIOVESE 2007

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $50

- Cork

- 13.5%alc

With plantings dating back to 1985, Coriole has been a pioneer of Australian sangiovese. As the vines have matured, recent Coriole Sangioveses have seemingly gone from strength to strength, to the point where, Coriole has now released a reserve level wine destined to join the ranks of Australia's new varietal benchmarks (which Coriole Sangiovese kinda was anyway).

From a hot, dry vintage, Coriole has fashioned a sangiovese that's lifted out of the glass by a fresh, minty fragrance, but underneath it's very rustic and savoury, with robust smatterings of scorched earth, leather and cherries co-existing with chocolate/cedar oak, to deliver a splendid nose loaded with character and complexity. Medium-bodied and silky to commence, the palate reveals a brightness of varietally correct savoury cherry flavour that's hard to resist, particularly with a lick of chocolate providing a delicious undercarriage, but the palate's most defining feature would have to be its seriously imposing structure, the likes of which I've never seen from Coriole. Even at 4 years old it's powerfully firm, drying and expansive, with coarse, chalky tannins and sour-edged acidity chiselling out a long lasting, mouth puckering and slightly astringent finish. Its grip definitely reflects the vintage, although its deliciously ripened fruit might not. Perfect really.

ü+ Powerful, firm, rustic and bright, and certainly handling its difficult season with aplomb, the 2007 Vita Reserve is a much more serious, possibly more masculine proposition than the standard Coriole Sangiovese. It's obviously urging for a stint in the cellar, from which it should emerge a most spectacular expression of an Australian Italianette. Alternatively, just present it around a lunchtime feast. Drink 2015-2020.

94 points

www.coriole.com

MORRIS DURIF 2007

- Rutherglen, VIC

- $20-$29

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

Given the rather heavy hitting, long living wines made from durif in Victoria's Rutherglen region, it makes me wonder why there aren't more examples of the variety from South Australia's warmer districts. Morris has really nailed the style over the years, gifting us firm, robust, weighty, classically Australian reds, sold at a wonderful price to the consumer.

Richly scented and profoundly deep for its price, the 2007 Morris Durif displays a beautifully even, heady fragrance combining dark aromatic character with bright expression. Shiraz-like dark plums and berries, choc-raisins/licorice and a peppery hint of dry roast meats live it up in the nose, while a gentle whiff of chocolate/vanilla oak provides no more than a backing role, allowing its vivid fruit to power through. The palate begins with a similarly bright, generously weighted mouthful of ripe plums and berries, before its nature becomes much more rustic as it progresses, in both taste and feel. Advancing and containing its well measured richness is a powerfully dry, intensely tannic and hard-boned structure, that should take years to settle into its substantial fruit base. Basically, this is what top quality durif is all about for me; impact and age-worthiness. Just strap yourself in and feel the G's!

ü+ A classic Rutherglen durif, that's hard to split from Morris's magnificent 2004 (94pts). However, unlike the 2004, the 2007 is sealed with a screwcap, so you can cellar with complete confidence. Awesome. Drink to 2025.

93 points

www.morriswines.com.au

TAHBILK MARSANNE 2010

- Nagambie Lakes, VIC

- $11-$19

- Screwcap

- 12.5%alc

Australia boasts a range of committed producers who focus on certain 'alternative' varieties with the respect one normally reserves for gemstones, when others might simply pass them off as grapes. Think Yalumba and viognier, Pirramimma and petit verdot, d'Arenberg and grenache, and of course, Tahbilk and marsanne.

Cleanly scented and youthful, Tahbilk's 2010 reveals a pleasing, well defined fragrance for such a young marsanne, which really, one should expect from Australia's specialist maker of the variety. There are notes of stonefruit kernel/almond and gentle spice apparent, giving a vibrant, genuinely varietal edge to its more obvious scent of freshly picked lemons, with a minor trace of mineral residing throughout. By delivering its squeaky clean lemon and stonefruit kernel flavours in a surprisingly sumptuous, practically medium-full bodied sense, the palate also reflects a relatively assertive, character laden expression of a young Tahbilk Marsanne. Thankfully, the finish bares the structure and drive to balance everything out, as the whole package is wrapped up nicely by an agreeable phenolic note and chalky, drying acids, which merge eloquently alongside persisting notes of citrus and stonefruit kernel to drag out a long, brightly lit and assertive finish.

ü+ I'm really liking this Tahbilk Marsanne, which has a real, punchy presence of varietal character backed up by a classically Tahbilk structure. I guess I better make room in the cellar then, to do future Chris a favour. Drink to 2020.

91 points

www.tahbilk.com.au

MITCHELTON BLACKWOOD PARK RIESLING 2010

- Central Victoria

- $13-$21

- Screwcap

- 12.0%alc

Victorian wine regions are truly blessed when it comes to delicious chardonnay, pinot noir, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, but when the drink turns to riesling, Victoria's reputation isn't quite as lofty as others. There is however, a diverse group of standout Victorian rieslings from various regions, covering both high (for riesling) and low price points. Mitchelton's Blackwood Park falls into the latter of these two categories.

There are floral aromas of honeysuckle and jasmine emerging from Mitchelton's 2010 Blackwood Park, with a lightly candied influence of lemon and lime citrus providing sufficient, if slightly sweet varietal punch. Rather broad and sour, the palate presents some slightly spiky, edgy, viscous flavours of honeyed citrus and toast, drawn down the mouth by sweet 'n' sour acids and a penetrative note of lime juice. It's okay if a tad awkward right now, but it's far from an inspirational riesling, even at its modest price.

O I've always considered Mitchelton's Blackwood Park to be a good, consistent riesling (certainly capable of cellaring too), which doesn't really scale the heights of excellence. The 2010 hasn't changed my opinion. Drink 2014-2017.

88 points

www.mitchelton.com.au

WANT

Kitty might want a partner to mate with, but he definitely wants food. Meanwhile, my own list of wants is far more complex and much less driven by a simple need to survive.

As a passionate consumer of Australian wine, what I want is for Australian wine to be more popular, but more importantly, to be understood better by the masses who drink it.

But how?

What I want is for Australian wine to get a small sip of the gigantic cup of television coverage currently being beer-bonged down by the food industry.

Sure, Australian wine has had recent spells on TV - Wine Lover's Guide to Australia and Wine Squad come to mind - two shows which are all good and interesting if you're a wine fanatic, but rather useless if you aren't. I mean, if I rocked up to a mate's place with a nice bottle of red and a DVD box-set of Wine Lover's Guide to Australia, I wouldn't be allowed anywhere near the DVD player, but they'd still drink my wine.

What I want to see is an Australian wine show which is entertaining first, and informative second. It could be fictional even.

What immediately jumps out to me is the feature film Sideways. Sideways was a fictional movie, doubtlessly entertaining (even I enjoyed it and I generally hate 21st century Hollywood cinema), about two guys who take some time off to go and cruise up to California's wine country for a bit of wine drinking related malarkey. As wine lovers, we've all been there. The combination of the two main characters - one wine savvy and the other not - made for some interesting viewing, with subtle bits of wine information littered throughout the film, within the dialogue. Just look at what a little information, delivered to the public through an entertaining format, did for merlot's credibility. Some might say Sideways 'killed' merlot in some respects. Imagine what the reverse of this effect could do.

Oz Clarke and James May have provided a similarly styled duo of wine expert and wine beginner, in their Big Wine Adventures, which has gone on to become a reasonable success, by successfully combining entertainment with information. Unfortunately, although aired in a prime time spot by SBS, the show has so far only promoted French, American and English wine, not Australian. But as Australians, we can not sit around and wait for the English or Americans to come up with a show promoting our wine. It must be done by ourselves.

The Australian shows I mentioned previously definitively fall under the informative first, entertaining second category (my apologies to Big Blind Mike!), which essentially makes them quite dull to your 'average' wine drinker without industry experience or a 1000 bottle cellar. The internet video clips of people sitting around assessing wine are also unlikely to appeal to an audience outside of wine circles; just as this blog.

What I would love to see, is an Australian wine related sitcom (do Australians even make sitcoms anymore?). It could possibly be set in a cellar door, or winery, or somewhere similar. It would be funny, entertaining, and drop subtle hints of wine information in amongst the comedic madness. The show would revolve around character development and character interaction (a bit of slapstick, smut and old-fashioned prop comedy goes a long way in my eyes too!), but there'd be enough there to keep the wine savvy continuously tuning in for a laugh, alongside the non-wine loving viewer, whom hopefully, might learn a few things along the way.

It's just something I want.

YALUMBA VINTAGE PORT 1969

- Barossa Valley/South Australia?

- $50-$60 (Auction)

- Cork

- Alcohol not stated

Australia has a long, rich history of fortified wine production, written into the books by brands who now reside as household names. Old Ports from Hardys, Penfolds, Seppeltsfield and Yalumba still hold their presence on the secondary market, but more importantly, they constitute a living, drinkable memory of Australia's wine past.

It's slightly unnerving drinking a wine that's older than you. It's kinda like drinking your dad; with respect. When opened and ready to go, this 42 year old Vintage Port presents warm and inviting, if piercing and vaporous scents, with an air of sharp volatility providing an aerial kick to its deeper set notes of raisin dominated, spicy fruitcake with cranberries and crushed nuts. Oh yeah, there's alcohol aplenty in there as well. Its wonderfully captivating palate presents an unsurprisingly rich array of honeyed fruitcake flavours, held into place by an ever present aura of spiky, warming spirit, that sets itself in from first touch and never lets go, before revealing hints of green olive and oily nuts in its spirit infused, rather sticky climax.

ü There's so much to appreciate about drinking a 42 year old bottle of wine, that scoring it almost seems inappropriate. Realistically, I don't see any reason why the 1969 Yalumba Vintage Port wouldn't last another 10 or 20 years, but I'd drink to that! Drink to 2019.

90 points

www.yalumba.com

ASHTON HILLS ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2009

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $40-$53

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

For a number of reasons, Ashton Hills is a winery I hold a serious amount of respect for. One of my favourite little touches is Ashton Hills' informative label texts, which actually change every vintage. The 2009 Estate Pinot Noir reads; 'Overall Pinot quality in 2009 was so good that all 18 of our clones (selections), instead of the usual handful, made the grade for this Estate wine. One third of the grapes were uncrushed, adding to the wine's complexity, structure and interest.'

Distinctly darkly coloured by Ashton Hills standards, the 2009 Estate essentially matches its appearance with a dark fruited, somewhat raisiny and rather ripe fragrance scented with herbs/menthol and suggestions of stewed pinot fruit character. Its aroma lacks lift, perfume and elegance, but perhaps most disappointing for the style, is a hint of alcoholic warmth that pokes through. The palate regains some credibility thanks to the typically silky, supple qualities associated with Ashton Hills pinot noir, as clever winemaking has imparted reasonable balance and a degree of elegance, but the 2009 remains much riper and conversely darker fruited than the label's better wines. A herbal note emerges in its finish, contrasting the riper front palate, but regrettably, there's also a slightly rough-edged feel emanating through some fairly grippy tannins.

X As a pinot noir I'm not totally convinced by this, which is a feeling I don't usually associate with Ashton Hills. Unfortunately, the 2009 Estate is the type of pinot I'd be happy paying $20-$25 for. Drink to 2014.

89 points

BANNOCKBURN SERRÉ PINOT NOIR 1998

- Geelong, VIC

- $120

- Cork

- 13.5%alc

As a (terribly) general rule of thumb, I'd put most good Australian pinot noir within an 8 year cellaring bracket, with the odd standout drinking well at 10 or 12, and the occasional, welcomed freak going beyond that even. Screwcaps may well prove me wrong though. The 1998 Serre represents Bannockburn's finest efforts with the variety, from a period when the winery was performing exceptionally well. Even then, I'm still holding my fingers crossed on this 13 year old Australian pinot noir.

Defined by savoury scents of brown leaf litter, damp, earthy soils, light spices and gentle aniseed, Bannockburn's 1998 Serre has bid farewell to its primary fruit aromas, although it still rises from the glass with vitality, fragrant lift and an ever present hint of dry cedar. In the mouth it's luxuriously silky, sensual, gentle in its weight and understated in its entry. The palate then follows through with a powerfully sour-edged extract of cherry, earth and tea leaf-like flavour, becoming more intensely acidic and sour-edged as it progresses into a very long, fine and ultimately dry finish, that does reveal complex and savoury, if faint touches of fennel, spice and tea leaf character, with essentially little or no tannin influence.

O Very good and holding up particularly well for a teenage Australian pinot noir, but I suspect the 1998 Serre might've been a better prospect around 3 years ago. Drink now.

92 points

www.bannockburnvineyards.com