Thursday, October 6, 2011

PETER LEHMANN STONEWELL SHIRAZ 1996

- Barossa Valley, SA
- $73-$110
- Cork
- 14.0%alc

As Australia evolves to better define its own distinctive terroir through sub-regional definition, we shouldn't forget how many of our very best wines represent a skillfully blended composition of multiple vineyards. Peter Lehmann's magnificent 1996 Stonewell harnesses an appetising combination of predominantly north/north-central Barossa shiraz, drawing fruit from the sub-regions of Greenock, Stonewell, Siegersdorf, Moppa and Koonunga Hill. Whatever's going on here - works in my opinion!

Showing a gorgeous fragrance with ample character, complexity and vibrancy, Peter Lehmann's 1996 Stonewell reveals a balanced, savoury nose underlined by splendid depth of fruit. There's varnish and mushroom scents, maybe a hint of truffle too, with flicks of white pepper and classic cedar/vanilla oak complementing a dry aromatic edge to its wonderfully regional, stained black fruit base. By Barossa standards, its palate is gently weighted and practically medium-bodied in the way it draws out a perfectly elegant, leathery expression of blackcurrant and red cherry flavours; however, an incredibly lively finish really steals the show here. Very long and vivid, its growing leathery and fresh vanilla complexity is kept alive and kicking to the end, courtesy of a binding extract of ultra-fine tannins and slick acid which complement its deliciously persistent flavour without muscling it out. Oh yeah. A 96 for the '96.

ü+ A beautifully complex, seamlessly balanced, somewhat subtle and elegant Barossa shiraz with plenty of fruit richness at its core. It's such a fine example of what the style is capable of with a bit of age. Drink to 2014.
96 points


7 comments:

  1. Hi Chris, I bought one bottle of this at auction a couple of years ago and don't share your view of it unfortunately. I can't believe you didn't use the word 'mint' even once! Easily the most overpowering mint I've ever tasted. Not showing that character to you?

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  2. joshgtv,

    I can see where you're coming from. Strangely, of all things, I often find a correlation between mint and vanilla. I personally thought this pushed more vanilla than mint, but I thought the '02 really possessed both, particularly mint, and I actually had a tasting of the '06 last night, which I found more vanilla-like once again. Could just have something to do with how I'm feeling on the night... Either way, they're both characters I don't mind in my shiraz.

    By the way, did you like the '96?

    Cheers,
    Chris P

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  3. As a little side note. . .

    The '98 Old Block was thrown into a decanter at about 3:30 that afternoon, at which point it smelt very minty/leafy and showing some of the cooler green aspects of Eden Valley shiraz. My mate was meant to come around at 4-4:30 with '96 Stonewell, but didn't arrive until about 5:30, at which point the mintiness of the Old Block had faded. The Stonewell had been decanted for 3 hours before I even stuck my nose into it. Just some additional thoughts...

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  4. No I didn't enjoy it at all, I found it really unbalanced... the mint cancelled everything else out for me. I should mention at this point though that I am at least a little sensitive to mint flavour in Shiraz.

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  5. That's a shame, but you're certainly not alone in your opinions of mint and shiraz. The 96 (obviously) proved a hit round here, with 3 people whom I know aren't adverse to a bit of mint in their shiraz. Big thanks for the feedback though, you've inspired a new series of posts which we can hope to see on the blog soon. :)

    Cheers,
    Chris P

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  6. Stonewall Shiraz was probably the first 'icon' wine that I got into. That I could find it in my local supermarket for £30 was a bonus. I had intentions of buying a few bottles each year and stuffing them away, I think I did so with the '04 vintage only and then fatherhood intervened!

    Great note as ever. Cheers

    Stu

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  7. Thanks Stu. I liked the '04, but '02 remains my favourite. '06 looks pretty smart too. Thirty quid though! Imagine that in this day and age of our current exchange rates. . .

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