Okay, it seems everyone's had their say on Cape Mentelle's new labels, so here's my two cents worth; I liked the old labels. I always liked the old labels, but the new labels, which can look surprisingly sophisticated in person, are starting to grow on me. That's it. Now onto the wine.
Cape Mentelle's 2010 SBS (54/46) immediately unloads a strong aroma loaded with ample character and definition, but its most pleasing attribute may be a vivid sense of distinct regionality. Its pungent scents of green pea, guava and lemon/lime citrus rise from the glass in expressive fashion, while funked-up hints of sweat and light, airy smoke string the nose together to form a fragrance with as much character as any Cape Mentelle SBS I can recall. A well controlled punch of juicy fruit announces the palate, which moves forward with a wonderfully smooth, even flow of sweaty tropical fruit flavour that is just so devilishly Western Australian. The sweaty, more savoury aspects push on with touches of smoky and mineral complexity, carrying the wine to a cleansing, classically brisk finish helped along by a balancing framework of lively acids.
ü+ For me, Cape Mentelle's 2010 is right on the style button. It beautifully expresses elements of sauvignon blanc, semillon and desirable barrel ferment notes (15%) in a harmonised, truly regional and character laden manner. Well worth the twenty. Drink to 2013.