Although I've never had a Dexter wine before, my experiences with Yabby Lake suggest Tod Dexter isn't the type of guy to let a loosely styled Mornington Peninsula chardonnay slip through the cracks. Just 4080 bottles of the 2009 Dexter Chardonnay were made, from vines planted in 1987.
A savoury whiff of creamy/nutty oak underpins the fragrance of Dexter's 2009, which is cleanly lifted by a springy citric component indicative of both lemon and tangerine fruits. Like a lot of good Aussie chardonnay there's an aroma of nectarine present, but I'm gonna lean towards yellow nectarine over my usual white here. To sum up, its palate is about as polite and well groomed as an usher at a royal wedding; smooth, spotless and debonair, with all of its components integrated in a tidy fashion. Upon deeper inspection you'll find a clear expression of creamy lemon and white pear flavours which evolve in a pleasingly savoury, perhaps even spicy manner (well handled oak?), with the last word spoken by a ginger-like tone. My only wish would've been to of seen tighter, clearer definition of acidity, but that could just be the difficult vintage playing its part.
ü This is exactly the type of chardonnay I could drink all night long without a fuss, but for $44, I'd prefer something a bit more mesmerising or age-worthy. Drink to 2015.