In my opinion Cullen's pair of bio-dynamically produced, wooded sauvignon blanc/semillon blends are Australia's best. The 2009 Cullen Vineyard is a 70/30 blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon, of which, 70% spent 4 months in new French oak (3 months oak is more common for the wine but Cullen deemed the 2009's fruit quality to be of an exceptional standard).
With true delicacy and poise, Cullen's 2009 sends up a carefully refined bouquet of clean, toasty/nutty oak, lemon infused mineral, green pea and brine. Pleasingly racy yet full and sumptuous, its pristine palate shows a cleverly judged balance of mineral, citrus and lightly smoked, creamy vanilla oak flavours, with any indication of sauvignon blanc's often predictable, pungent, simple tropical fruit flavours kept well at bay. Despite being quite rich and perhaps even fat through the middle section, the wine finishes fine and dry with refreshingly chalky acids underscored by penetrative notes of lemon, grapefruit and brine, which push deep into the aftertaste with wonderful definition.
ü+ Typical of the label, the 2009 Cullen Vineyard is a rare, intelligent, thinking person's sauvignon blanc blend, which would benefit considerably from a short stint in the cellar. I'd love to see more Australian wineries interpret the blend this way. Brilliant. Drink 2012-2015.