If you happen to be a thrifty sparkling red aficionado who's tried Leasingham's terrific 2004 Classic Clare Sparkling Shiraz, then you'll be happy to know there's another, cheaper 2004 Clare Valley sparkling shiraz currently available from the Hardys group. On a more personal note, I'm not sure I appreciate the way Oomoo has spread its wings so far beyond McLaren Vale now, but the value for money in this wine is nothing to sneer at.
Paying homage to its superb vintage, the 2004 Oomoo Sparkling Shiraz lets loose a glowing array of purple plum, mulberry and cherry aromas, all lifted with radiant vitality for its age. There are sly hints of soft spice, shaved chocolate and a developing leathery edge too, which coat its primary fruits with savoury grace. Brightly flavoured and fresh as a daisy, the palate hits all the right spots within its context. It pumps out a deliciously medium-bodied, smooth and somewhat elegant arrangement of vivid varietal fruits with earthy, aniseedy undertones, complemented by a fair caress of finesse throughout the movement. Wrapped up by a fine conclusion which tightens right on cue, its finish is properly balanced and dry, presenting a wonderful persistence of sweet fruit and vanilla oak, which eventually give way to farewell notes of cola and dry leaf. A little bit of time and air only enlightens the experience.
ü+ $16 and 7 years old already? I'll be damned! Hardys' 2004 Oomoo is as good a sub-$20 sparkling red as I can recall. I'd love to see it in another 3-5 years, it's that good. Drink to 2016.