Saturday, September 12, 2009

VOYAGER ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT 2004

 - Margaret River, WA
 - $52-$70
 - Screwcap
 - 14.2%alc

Voyager Estate's flagship cabernet merlot has grown in stature to the point where it is now considered one of the Margaret River's best and most under valued wines. Why then Voyager needs to degrade this potential icon by continuing to release a (better?) reserve level cabernet under the Tom Price label for around $100 eludes me.

Heavily ripened and heady, the 2004 opens to a sumptuous bouquet of deeply fruited dark plums, currants and mulberry with hints of leather, tar, crushed herbs and smoky cedar/chocolate oak. Its palate is also powerfully ripened and bruising, allowing intense silky/powdery tannins to coat its concentrated, full-bodied flavours of blackberry, mulberry, leather and meats. Dark and brooding, it finishes with real impact and great length, revealing a fine marriage of ripe fruit and savoury earth in its aftertaste.

ü Not for the faint hearted, this is a very ripe, plush Margaret River cabernet blend which just steps the wrong side of ripeness and elegance to be truly exceptional. Big Barossa shiraz anyone? Drink to 2020.
94 points


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