Consistently brilliant across all seasons, Grosset's Polish Hill is deservedly recognised as Australia's quintessential riesling. At $40 a bottle it's ludicrously underpriced, causing some to believe Jeffrey Grosset holds considerable influence on the remarkable value of Australian riesling as a whole.
Brightly scented, the 2009 Polish Hill presents a clean and pure fragrance of lemon, pear, apple blossom and lime juice; whose well defined varietal characteristics reveal traces of paw paw and white nectarine, yet fall well within the parameters of ideal ripeness. Astoundingly clear, its spotlessly clean white pear and citrus flavours develop flawlessly into more savoury, mineral and talc notes, which intensify the sensation of dryness. A surprisingly sensuous cut of zesty acids assert themselves with the polish expected of the label, moving with great effect along the side palate towards a sparkling climax, leaving a lasting impression of high quality Bickford's lime cordial lingering into the aftertaste.
ü+ Pristinely made, Grosset's latest Polish Hill is a riesling of outstanding purity and typically deceptive structure which will doubtlessly outperform most 09's, but it just lacks the textural complexity, intensity and penetrating length of the top vintages. Superb nonetheless. Drink to 2019.