Penfolds' Magill Estate could claim to represent one of the most unique expressions of Australian terroir around. Sourced from a very old, single vineyard in Adelaide's sophisticated eastern suburbs, there isn't really another wine or regional neighbour to compare it against.
Ripe, meaty and rustic, the 2007 Magill Estate shows the tell-tale signs of its difficult season, yet remains evenly balanced throughout. Taking time to open, it slowly unravels a surprisingly bright nose of dark plum, soy, red licorice and white pepper aromas cloaked in a polished presence of nutty mocha/vanilla oak. Medium-full bodied and ably concentrated, its velvety palate packs a dark, rustic core of fleshy black plum and roast meat flavour, which lengthen underneath a grainy extract of dry, mouth-puckering tannins and clean acids. It finishes very long and firm, and although there are savoury elements of clove and cinnamon spice evident, there's also a hint of ultra-ripe, tart fruit.
O Penfolds' resources and experience with the vineyard have courted out a nice 2007 here, but it's still a little difficult to recommend at $100r.r.p. There's more than sufficient structure and balance to suggest it'll develop for some time yet, so I'd just sit and wait. Drink to 2022.