Minko is a small, family based winery whose wine business revolves around a 13 year old, 10 hectare vineyard planted at Mount Compass in the southern Fleurieu Peninsula. Its 2008 Pinot Noir (made by McLaren Vale's James Hastwell at Hawker's Gate) certainly impressed popular critic James Halliday, who awarded the $25 wine a lofty 95 points.
Slightly hazy and bright red, its rather withheld nose reveals a prominent note of beetroot backed by more savoury, reserved aromas of cherry, earth and cinnamon with restrained, toasty oak. Appropriately weighted in a medium-light sense, its palate is held in check by a lithe outline of faintly sour, zippy pinot acids and soft yet dry tannins. It's pleasingly composed and elegant, with a balanced finish that announces a rich push of earth and spearmint flavours with gentle spice, yet no rawness or hardness whatsoever.
ü+ Minko's 2008 clearly states the benefit of fastidious, small-scale winemaking for pinot noir. If Tapanappa's 2008 was downright sexy, then this is quite cute. It's also a big win for me on 3 different levels; for its price, for its region and for South Australia. Drink to 2014.