Monday, November 14, 2011

STEFANO LUBIANA ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2009

- Southern Tasmania
- $45-$55
- Screwcap
- 13.5%alc

Easily in my top handful of Tasmanian pinot noir, Stefano Lubiana's Estate takes off from his delicious Primavera Pinot Noir and betters it - just as it should - by way of savoury complexity, texture, structure and longevity. I often wonder how many other producers would be content to classify such a wine as reserve, which of course, the Estate isn't. The 2006 was a beauty (95pts).

Beautifully bright and fragrant, with succulent dark cherry and strawberry scents bursting from the glass alongside a joyous lick of caramel oak, imbibed by a low-tone of game and a high-tone of freshly picked garden herb, the 2009 Estate doesn't quite possess the savoury complexity or finesse of the very best vintages, but its sumptuous varietal nature smells an unabashed treat. It tastes that way too, rolling out rich, almost palate staining for pinot, silky layers of cherry, strawberry and then rhubarb flavour, with the onus being on its youthful freshness and texture. Wonderfully slight, velevty tannins, which meld seamlessly into its silken core, perk up the finish beside a refreshing acidity, leaving a juicy taste of small forest berries edged by cedar to linger long into the mouth.

ü Clever winemaking from Mr Lubiana - again (does this man know how to make bad wine?). His 2009 Estate is a richer pinot noir with the depth, backbone and capacity to age, yet the sensuality to drink now. It's a classic 'each-way bet'. Drink to 2017.
93 points


Sunday, November 13, 2011

Thursday, November 10, 2011

FREYCINET PINOT NOIR 2009

- East Coast Tasmania
- $63-$80
- Screwcap
- 13.5%alc

According to Langton's, who chose Freycinet as the sole Tasmanian pinot noir in their latest classification of Australian wine; 'The family-owned Freycinet Vineyard is recognised by collectors as the most consistent and distinguished producer of ultra fine Tasmanian Pinot Noir.' Stefano Lubiana and Domaine A immediately spring to mind as other names to consider, but wines like Freycinet's 2009 really hammer home why the east coast producer is a benchmark of Tasmanian style.

Showing lovely, spicy hits of clove and star anise that rise from the glass with stunning definition, Freycinet's 2009 displays a dark and dusty, regional set of sweetly fruited and savoury attractions, meshing redcurrants, cranberries and musk stick with meaty, herbal influences and some fragrant smoky oak. It's deep and beguiling yet intensified by its high toned spice and herbal elements, but the palate is where its true complexity takes form. Combining a fluffy suppleness with a concealed depth of dark cherry kernel, herb, clove and sour-edged red berry flavour, it's at once submissive, electrifying and pert, as its understated qualities are zipped up and driven long by an attractively youthful, crisp outer shell of structure, which provides wonderful extension courtesy of slick 'n' shiny acids peppered by ground spice-like tannins, leaving notes of nutty oak and a tart taste of cranberry to pass. Age worthiness is clearly on the cards here. It's wickedly Tasmanian.

ü+ A true, essential Tassie pinot, done the Freycinet way. All it needs is time and I think we'll be looking at a modern day Tasmanian masterpiece. Drink 2013-2021.
95 points


Wednesday, November 9, 2011

TYRRELL'S SINGLE VINEYARD STEVENS SEMILLON 2007

- Lower Hunter Valley, NSW
- $20-$35
- Screwcap
- 12.2%alc

Every time I attend a tasting with a decent line-up of semillon, it bedazzles me how much the Tyrrell's wines stand out. Whether the bottle be Vat 1, Stevens, HVD, Belford or anything with Tyrrell's printed on a white label, these time proven wines are always worth a look.

A real flinty kick rips the 2007 Stevens out of the glass, dragging with it scents of melons, lemon, minerals and pouch tobacco with an emerging savoury edge. It's lively, balanced and clearly opening up on the nose, reflecting Tyrrell's experience with releasing these wines at a good age. Its palate packs some rich, round, almost buttery regional character, revealing classic lemons and lanolin with juicy undercurrents and a grapefruit-like extension, but despite its fine push of flavour, it doesn't really glisten and hold through the finish, lacking the searing acidity and briskness of the very best vintages. Moving line and structure aside for a moment, its richness and taste provide fine drinking for the now.

ü From a very early vintage (third week of January!), Tyrrell's have crafted a higher alcohol than usual semillon (12.2% makes it the most alcoholic Hunter sem I've covered on this website), containing the richness, softness and classic combination of youth and maturity to make it a good early drinker. Drink to 2016.
91 points


Tuesday, November 8, 2011

WOLF BLASS GOLD LABEL CHARDONNAY 2010

- Adelaide Hills, SA
- $16-$25
- Screwcap
- 13.5%alc

The modern day Wolf Blass winery finds itself in an ambiguous state. Perched somewhere in TWE's overgrown family tree, Wolf Blass still maintains its place as a household name with Australian drinkers, but its ever changing range and high end products hardly excite the self respecting serious consumer. Really, all-encompassing wine quality must cut through marketing and gadgetry for the once exalted status of Wolf Blass to return. Wines like the 2007 White Label (94pts) and 2010 Gold Label Chardonnays are taking things in the right direction, but it is reds this brand is famous for...

Nutty, creamy, yeasty, perhaps vanilla ice cream cone-like and full of bright, complex character, the 2010 Gold Label Chardonnay sits right in the label's modern groove, supporting its obvious, yet charming inputs with restrained fruit scents of white nectarines, melons, lemon and spice. Showing more control of its fruit than earlier outings, its creamy palate is announced by an upfront savoury richness, pushing clean notes of nuts, brioche and lemon/lime yoghurt into a smoothly set, softly structured finish, whose length and acidity just lack the penetration and biting tightness to instigate real wow factor. Don't mind that though, because its value and style both receive big ticks.

ü+ With so much going on within Wolf Blass it would be easy to ignore the Gold Label Chardonnay. I don't know why, as its character, rich texture and balance make it so easy to like. It's an ideal entry point for proper Aussie chardonnay. Drink to 2015.
91 points


MID-WEEK MEAT & VEG FOR A TEXTURAL, DRY AND SAVOURY ADELAIDE HILLS CHARDONNAY

Pork scotch fillet with Chinese five spice and herb butter


Monday, November 7, 2011

OXFORD LANDING ESTATES CABERNET SAUVIGNON & SHIRAZ 2010

- Riverland/South Australia
- $5-$12
- Screwcap
- 13.0%alc

Linked by ownership to Yalumba, Oxford Landing is a Riverland based brand whose oldest, original estate plantings happen to be cabernet sauvignon, with some vines dating back over 40 years. The back label of their 2010 Cabernet Shiraz heroically states; 'vegan and vegetarian friendly', causing me to wonder if the wine displays any warm-climate meaty aspects...

Meaty aspects? Hmm... maybe. But it's not that overcooked roast meat character prevalent to overhung, sun-drenched, warm-climate red grapes, rather, it's cured meat and herbs, spicy salami even, expressed in a style perhaps more typical to pinot noir (!?). Also in the nose are simple but fruity scents of cleanly ripened blackberries and raspberries, underlining a satisfying aroma devoid of harshness or heat. Conclusively, it's more interesting and composed than one might expect from a $7 red, which echoes into a palate whose silky softness and surprising suppleness immediately disperse any preconceived stereotypes, whilst providing an almost shameful satisfaction. Its primary announcement of charmingly fresh, juicy blackberries and red plums run smoothly into a finish baring a tiny twist of acid crunch at the end, where there's just enough structure to silence the astute without deterring the quaffers. It's a big win for anyone wanting change from a tenner.

ü+ Enlivened by balance, mouthfeel and freshness, Oxford Landing's 2010 Cabernet Shiraz is just a wonderful little red. It's simple but delicious and oh so gluggable. Go on... Drink to 2013.
89 points


Sunday, November 6, 2011

MAJELLA THE MUSICIAN CABERNET SHIRAZ 2010

- Coonawarra, SA
- $15-$22
- Screwcap
- 14.5%alc

After mirroring the fluctuations of recent South Australian vintages, Majella's lightly oaked Musician has rebounded to top form in 2010, reaffirming its position as a chieftain amongst Coonawarra's everyday drinking class.

Dark, evenly ripened and altogether smelling deeper than previous Musicians, the 2010 still buzzes in with a fragrant vitality, or a regional intensity, revealing a vivid aroma of mint soaked in cassis and raspberry juice with shades of vanilla and white pepper, indicating subtle hints of wood and Coonawarra shiraz (44%). The palate accommodates the nose, delving with a touch more concentration and darkness than usual, however, it bares a radiating brightness to its essence-like blackcurrant, dark plum and raspberry flavours, which persist along a cleverly pitched, light-medium bodied framework aided by great length and a refreshing finish emitting a particularly polished, pulsating acidity. There is a faint, valid sour-edged meatiness through the aftertaste, but it's cloaked in sumptuous chocolate/blackcurrant flavour and emancipating acids. In all respects it's a much more complete wine than other Musicians. It's immediately delicious and then some. Top value.

ü+ Majella have taken full advantage of what could be the best Coonawarra vintage for years. The 2010 Musician contains the light, bright, racy attributes we've come to love from the label, yet still manages to fill in a few holes the other wines didn't. Excellent, modern and intensely regional. A high note for the Musician. So drinkable. Drink to 2016.
91 points


Friday, November 4, 2011

WOODLANDS 'MARGARET' 2008

(Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Malbec)
- Margaret River, WA
- $32-$45
- Screwcap
- 13.5%alc

I continue to be gobsmacked by the value of Woodlands' deeply complex, perfumed and elegant Margaret Reserve, arguably Australia's most undersold cabernet blend. Even in a slightly off year (only by Woodlands' own lofty standards), it's simply irresistible at such a ludicrous sale price.

Absolutely enchanting, with a piercing scent of dry, spicy cedar wood cutting through its soft floral perfume of crushed dark berries edged by black olives, licorice and dry leaf, the 2008 Margaret reveals a complex combination of both aggressive and feminine attributes on the nose, but it's a happy marriage indeed. When it enters the mouth, it does it graciously and sensually, unravelling a deep, silky and supple array of blackberry, mulberry and dark cherry flavours which emanate with a seductive smoothness, depositing tastes of violets and dried herbs over melting chocolate through the finish. Complementing its progression is a seamlessly integrated, velvet-like expression of ripe tannins and fresh acids, whose inputs harness and maneuver the wine elegantly, without displaying a forceful impression of strength. It just lacks the exceptional length and tightness of the best vintages, but at $32, who's complaining?

ü+ Deliciously ripened, deep, sensual, silky and very stylish, the 2008 Margaret is thoroughly Woodlands. Young cabernet blends like this are rare in Australia. Embrace them when you can, and they might grow. Drink to 2020.
94 points


WOODLANDS

South Australian Woodlands fans rejoice! Thanks to Kane from Landhaus in the Barossa Valley, Woodlands' spectacular wines have found new distribution into our state, where they're literally finding their way into a number of our retailers. Hurrah! One such retailer is Melbourne Street Fine Wine, who recently invited Kane to come in and show off his stuff.

Woodlands' high end cabernet styles display a savoury elegance, perfume and deep, supple, texturally inspired palates which conceal their formidable tannin structures to a tee. Cabernet of such quality is rare in Australia, particularly outside of the Margaret River's Wilyabrup sub-region. If you're living in Adelaide and haven't yet discovered Woodlands reds, now is as good a time as any to do so.

On a duller note, I continue to be uninspired by Woodlands' entry level wines. Yes, for under $20 they're fair value, but the Chardonnay is a bit simplistic, the vintages of Cabernet Franc Merlot I've had appear raw and edgy, and the Cabernet Merlot, which regularly receives high praise from numerous wine critics, has never quite tipped the hat for me. The 2009 Cabernet Merlot looks to have taken a step in my direction though, in more of a ripe and juicy, dark bruiser of a true BBQ style, but conclusively, I feel there's an all too significant gap between the quality of these wines and their more expensive stablemates.

It is here I must mention I absolutely adore what Woodlands does with their premium Bordeaux inspired styles. I continue to believe the Margaret Reserve is the most ethereal sub-$40 cabernet blend in this country. Its quality makes it impossible for me to ever fork out the extra $60 for Woodlands' undeniably spectacular Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. The Reserve de la Cave Cabernet Franc and Malbec, although rare, are insanely good Australian wines and well worth seeking out. I couldn't help but ask Kane if he picked up any bottles of either Reserve de la Cave for South Australian distribution - he did - and they all found their way into the wine cellar at the Victory Hotel. It's about time I organised another dinner down at Sellicks Beach methinks. . .

Woodlands tasting notes are posted below

Woodlands Chardonnay 2010 ($17) Made in a simple, barely wooded style and it shows it, and perhaps excessively so. Its fruit focused, fresh melon, lemon citrus and grapefruit characters end with slightly sharp acids. It lacks complexity in all of its elements but might make for a fair enough quaff, if not much else. I'd love to see Woodlands evolve this wine, with more winemaker induced complexity, to compete stronger with the likes of Vasse Felix and Brookland Valley when it comes to cheap Margaret River chardonnay. 87

Woodlands Chloe Chardonnay 2010 ($42) If the standard wine required more winemaker induced complexity this took it too far the other way. Ensconced by nutty, buttery, popcorn-like oak, its peachy fruit barely gets a look in. Likewise, its round and forward palate is controlled by creamy oak nuance, ending short, altogether loose and without necessary brightness or persistence of fruit. It's hard to love and disappointing for the label. Were I Lincoln, I'd be tempted to buy the two Woodlands Chardonnays for the blending bench. Where one fails, the other succeeds. 88

Woodlands Cabernet Franc Merlot 2010 ($17) 51/49 blend. Shows raw edges to its very ripe, dark blackcurrant and cherry fruits with a hint of cinnamon. Its palate also ends raw and hard edged, with its finish of coarse tannins seeming quite out of sync with its ultra-ripe, if fractionally flat, currant fruit fore palate. It's quite disjointed and unbalanced. Another let down from Woodlands' Cab Franc/Merlot, courtesy of the people who make Australia's best straight cabernet franc in my opinion. I'm pretty sure the last disappointment I had from this label was around a 50/50 blend as well. 86

Woodlands Cabernet Merlot 2009 ($17) Very ripe, juicy dark plums and currants, composed in a rich, juicy, crowd pleasing style perfectly set for the BBQ. In some respects, it's almost South Australian like. It has good length of medium-full bodied dark fruits, with a charming balance of vanilla oak to smooth it out and lithe tannins to tighten it up. Tasty. (full review soon) 90

Woodlands Margaret Reserve 2008 ($32) 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 11% Malbec. Beautifully ripened and even, with true perfume and a savoury overlay to blackcurrants, cherries, violets and cedar/mocha oak. Its classy palate exudes exceptional suppleness, depth and silky flavour, finishing bright and savoury with excellent length and fine, dry tannins. It's not the most gang-bustingly brilliant Margaret Reserve I've had, but at $32 each, I had no problems in escorting a couple of these back to my place. (full review soon) 94

Woodlands Nicolas Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($99) Wonderfully deep, with a chocolatey accent to its blackberries, mulberries, game and polished vanilla/cedar oak with maybe a hint of fresh mint leaf. It's rich and luscious, concentrated and medium to medium-full, yet beautifully measured and even. Its palate drives long and precise, with a near wave-like effect of silky, rich, fleshy dark fruit flavour ending with a truly balanced structure. The only problem I have with this wine, which I always have with this wine, is it's hard to buy one when I could have 3 Margaret Reserves for the same price. Excellent wine though. Wonderful Margaret River cabernet. 95