PETER LEHMANN STONEWELL SHIRAZ 1996

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $73-$110

- Cork

- 14.0%alc

As Australia evolves to better define its own distinctive terroir through sub-regional definition, we shouldn't forget how many of our very best wines represent a skillfully blended composition of multiple vineyards. Peter Lehmann's magnificent 1996 Stonewell harnesses an appetising combination of predominantly north/north-central Barossa shiraz, drawing fruit from the sub-regions of Greenock, Stonewell, Siegersdorf, Moppa and Koonunga Hill. Whatever's going on here - works in my opinion!

Showing a gorgeous fragrance with ample character, complexity and vibrancy, Peter Lehmann's 1996 Stonewell reveals a balanced, savoury nose underlined by splendid depth of fruit. There's varnish and mushroom scents, maybe a hint of truffle too, with flicks of white pepper and classic cedar/vanilla oak complementing a dry aromatic edge to its wonderfully regional, stained black fruit base. By Barossa standards, its palate is gently weighted and practically medium-bodied in the way it draws out a perfectly elegant, leathery expression of blackcurrant and red cherry flavours; however, an incredibly lively finish really steals the show here. Very long and vivid, its growing leathery and fresh vanilla complexity is kept alive and kicking to the end, courtesy of a binding extract of ultra-fine tannins and slick acid which complement its deliciously persistent flavour without muscling it out. Oh yeah. A 96 for the '96.

ü+ A beautifully complex, seamlessly balanced, somewhat subtle and elegant Barossa shiraz with plenty of fruit richness at its core. It's such a fine example of what the style is capable of with a bit of age. Drink to 2014.

96 points

www.peterlehmannwines.com

ST HALLETT OLD BLOCK SHIRAZ 1998

- Barossa Valley/Eden Valley, SA

- $76-$110

- Cork

- 14.0%alc

Call me outdated or boring, but two of my very favourite Barossa shiraz labels remain Peter Lehmann's Stonewell and St Hallett's Old Block. It appears Stuart Blackwell believed the Crows' last premiership season offered some pretty fair fruit quality, as he chose to rest his flagship wine in American oak (new and two year old) for 28 months that year.

Scents of melting chocolate, brown leaf litter and soy reside in the 1998 Old Block's deep, settled fragrance, sparked by blackcurrant and plum fruits with a siding of leather. It's conclusively dark, without being vicious whatsoever. Starting out in a medium weight range, its palate quickly pumps up through the middle section, jumping into a much fuller, juicier framework that moves with good persistence, richness and softness. Its curvaceous shape contains a well directed concoction of earthy dark plum, berry and black olive flavours, which progress with a fine line of sour-edged acids and emerging touches of cedar and spice. It happily personifies the comforting aspects of good Barossa shiraz.

ü A classic regional style that just lacks the forthright complexity to be truly exceptional. Whether it'll develop those characters in coming years is difficult to see, but there's absolutely no denying the immediate drinking pleasure on offer here. Drink to 2018.

94 points

www.sthallett.com.au

YERING STATION RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2005

- Yarra Valley, VIC

- $56-$72

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

The Yarra Valley enjoyed a cracking vintage for chardonnay in 2005. Coldstream Hills' seamless, near perfect 2005 Reserve (96pts) provided a seasonal high point for me back in October 2007, but Yering Station's 2005 Reserve (95pts) wasn't too far behind. Ah, good times they were, and now, I'm reliving one of them.

With a glowing, radiant scent lifting off its pale-golden shades, Yering Station's 2005 Reserve conducts a hi-octane aromatic dance throughout the bowl of my biggest Burgundy glass, releasing yellow nectarine, grapefruit, creamed corn and buttered white toast/popcorn aromas. The line between fruit and oak has been considerably blurred, creating a complex unison of the two. When the time finally comes to drink down, it reveals a most supple, practically fragile texture, which although fractionally creamy, still mimics some elements of beautiful pinot noir, without any sign of excessive weight or richness. Perhaps equally as impressive is an ever present, electrifying zap of sherbety grapefruit/citric acids ensconcing its vibrant flavour, the latter of which resembles sweet yellow stonefruits bookended by minerals and sour cream. It's that understated harmony of complex texture, brightly lit flavour and glistening structure that makes this chardonnay something special. There's more good years ahead here. No doubt.

ü+ I could elaborate much further on this. Let's just say it's a wine that demands respect and, I'm really, really glad I have one left. Drink to 2015.

95 points

www.yering.com

COLDSTREAM HILLS RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2001

- Yarra Valley, VIC

- $45-$65

- Cork

- 14.0%alc

Judging by the labels on Coldstream Hills bottles, James Halliday isn't just something of a Richie Benaud-like figure in Australian wine, he's also a very talented photographer. Halliday's image of an airborne kangaroo on the 2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is an absolute beauty in my eyes. [click image for larger picture]

Still holding a faint crimson tinge to its hue, Coldstream Hills' 10 year old Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is initially pongy, mature, feral and animal-like on the nose, but a bit of decanting transforms its aroma agreeably, revealing a more stable, multi-faceted fragrance of bold plums, dates, roast meats/smoky bacon, fennel, mushroom and menthol, which admittedly, continuously blows off a fair whiff of barnyard pong. Blessed by the benefits of bottle age, its well controlled mouthfeel contradicts its rather dark, untamed scent. It's somewhat silky in a thin manner and elegantly compact at first, but then it literally blows open as it moves expansively into the mouth, unleashing a smooth and savoury array of juicy meats and dark fruits washed over by leathery tones. With its width, volume, lingering notes of choc-licorice/menthol and an ultra-fine sprinkling of the most minute, yet essential tannin, the back palate really steals the show here. It's like a 6 font exclamation mark with a 16 font dot.

O Quite meaty, pongy and showing the signs of a hot year, Coldstream Hills' 2001 Reserve doesn't exactly display the elegant characters typical of Yarra Valley cabernet, but its feel and shapely finish help refresh the palate with a synergistic groove. It's a fine example of how wines 'open up' with age. Drink to 2013.

91 points

www.coldstreamhills.com.au

YALUMBA WILD FERMENT CHARDONNAY 2007

- Eden Valley, SA

- $16-$23

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Around 3 years ago I fell in love with Yalumba's value packed 2007 Wild Ferment Chardonnay, awarding it 93 points and purchasing half a dozen, which quickly became one. Fast forward to the present day and as I'm drinking the last bottle, my appreciation hasn't changed one iota.

Golden yellow in colour, with classy, balanced aromas of almond meal, vanilla and cream bolstered by big, BIG yellow nectarines, Yalumba's 2007 Wild Ferment has seemingly flowered in the bottle, becoming richer, bolder, funkier and even sunnier. There's an additional undertone of white nougat too, complementing a nose which has clearly developed beautifully and bountifully over the short term. Its palate's glowingly flavoured, glossy, sumptuous and drinks with discerning ease, as its creamy yellow peach flavours are drawn down the palate to great effect by a powerful, savoury taste of nuts and a fluid undertone of vanilla. It's straight-up delicious and doesn't need to be described much more than that. If you have any, drink up!

ü+ You know those magical times when you pull a wine out of storage, crack it, drink it, absolutely adore it, then gloatingly think to yourself; 'wow, that was exactly when that should've been drunk.' Well, this was one of those times. Perfect. Drink now.

93 points

www.yalumba.com

YALUMBA VINTAGE PORT 1969

- Barossa Valley/South Australia?

- $50-$60 (Auction)

- Cork

- Alcohol not stated

Australia has a long, rich history of fortified wine production, written into the books by brands who now reside as household names. Old Ports from Hardys, Penfolds, Seppeltsfield and Yalumba still hold their presence on the secondary market, but more importantly, they constitute a living, drinkable memory of Australia's wine past.

It's slightly unnerving drinking a wine that's older than you. It's kinda like drinking your dad; with respect. When opened and ready to go, this 42 year old Vintage Port presents warm and inviting, if piercing and vaporous scents, with an air of sharp volatility providing an aerial kick to its deeper set notes of raisin dominated, spicy fruitcake with cranberries and crushed nuts. Oh yeah, there's alcohol aplenty in there as well. Its wonderfully captivating palate presents an unsurprisingly rich array of honeyed fruitcake flavours, held into place by an ever present aura of spiky, warming spirit, that sets itself in from first touch and never lets go, before revealing hints of green olive and oily nuts in its spirit infused, rather sticky climax.

ü There's so much to appreciate about drinking a 42 year old bottle of wine, that scoring it almost seems inappropriate. Realistically, I don't see any reason why the 1969 Yalumba Vintage Port wouldn't last another 10 or 20 years, but I'd drink to that! Drink to 2019.

90 points

www.yalumba.com

BANNOCKBURN SERRÉ PINOT NOIR 1998

- Geelong, VIC

- $120

- Cork

- 13.5%alc

As a (terribly) general rule of thumb, I'd put most good Australian pinot noir within an 8 year cellaring bracket, with the odd standout drinking well at 10 or 12, and the occasional, welcomed freak going beyond that even. Screwcaps may well prove me wrong though. The 1998 Serre represents Bannockburn's finest efforts with the variety, from a period when the winery was performing exceptionally well. Even then, I'm still holding my fingers crossed on this 13 year old Australian pinot noir.

Defined by savoury scents of brown leaf litter, damp, earthy soils, light spices and gentle aniseed, Bannockburn's 1998 Serre has bid farewell to its primary fruit aromas, although it still rises from the glass with vitality, fragrant lift and an ever present hint of dry cedar. In the mouth it's luxuriously silky, sensual, gentle in its weight and understated in its entry. The palate then follows through with a powerfully sour-edged extract of cherry, earth and tea leaf-like flavour, becoming more intensely acidic and sour-edged as it progresses into a very long, fine and ultimately dry finish, that does reveal complex and savoury, if faint touches of fennel, spice and tea leaf character, with essentially little or no tannin influence.

O Very good and holding up particularly well for a teenage Australian pinot noir, but I suspect the 1998 Serre might've been a better prospect around 3 years ago. Drink now.

92 points

www.bannockburnvineyards.com

YERING STATION SHIRAZ VIOGNIER 2005

- Yarra Valley, VIC

- $20-$29

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

Tom Carson made some truly memorable wines during his time at Yering Station, highlighted by some of the best expressions of sumptuously fruited, absolutely delicious shiraz viognier Australia has seen. In March '07 I rated Yering Station's 'standard' 2005 Shiraz Viognier at 93pts, which seems rather harsh when compared to the 96pts James Halliday gifted the wine.

Showing upfront, vibrant aromas of earth and boot polish underlined by plums, redcurrants, licorice and decomposing leaf litter, this 6 year old red shows age in a nose that does take time to settle, but it eventually reveals pleasing, savoury intrigue. Reinforcing the signs of development, its relatively sumptuous, leathery palate displays meaty red cherry and blackberry flavours within a medium-full body. Unfortunately, its overall level of excitement and integration is neither here nor there, as the gloss of youthful radiance it once showed has now given way to earlier maturing shiraz flavours, while its structure has nestled into something softer and juicier, with a hint of tart cranberry-like acids to pass.

O Because I have such fond memories of this wine, I'm currently wishing I drunk it during the time period from which the memories came. Ah, the complexities of the ageing process and what to buy... Drink to 2013.

89 points

www.yering.com

GRAMP'S BOTRYTIS SEMILLON 2004

- Riverina, NSW

- $12-$22

- Cork

- 11.0%alc

Throughout 2007 I was smitten with the value for money offered by Gramp's 2004 Botrytis Semillon. My notes indicate I awarded it 94 points in April that year, while my cellar says I was happy enough to tuck some away. Fortunately, Gramp's more recent releases have continued the form set by the 2004 (2006-92pts, 2008-91pts), while the label's switch to screwcaps should only increase consumer confidence in its ability to age.

Now a glorious deep bronze/amber colour, this 7 year old dessert wine slowly unfolds a scent of honey biscuits with both sweet and savoury suggestions, as well as a pungent, rubbery aroma of ultra-ripe nectarines and melons parted by an additional note of honey ice cream. It's quite deep and richly scented, seemingly revealing an extra degree of honeyed goodness every time you stick your nose in. The palate follows suit with an incredibly full, rich and luscious presence of honeyed stonefruit flavours, which may have been exaggerated by a few years bottle age, but it pushes on with length and smoothness. A persistent toasty oak extract lingers underneath a faintly tart coverage of brisk acids; exciting the finish, before both these elements are overawed by a powerful wave of sweet stonefruit flavour that surges to the end.

ü+ Gramp's 2004 Botrytis Semillon is smooth, rich and in no way short of impact, but it's long and refreshing enough to pull it off. I'm so glad I have one left....... for now. Drink now.

94 points

www.gramps.com.au

CROSER 1994 (Magnum)

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $60-$90? (Gift)

- Cork

- 12.5%alc

I was lucky enough to receive a magnum of 1994 Croser from some very dear friends of mine, who told me it was recently purchased from Petaluma's cellar door. Honestly, I wouldn't have thought a 17 year old Croser would be at its freshest right now, but if it's for sale at Bridgewater Mill (a first rate sparkling wine storage facility) and it's a magnum...

A faint yellow/gold tinge adorns the predominantly pale-straw coloured 1994 Croser. Although it lacks foam, bead and lace in the glass, it opens to an attractively smoky fragrance of creamy lemon citrus, brine and vanilla; altogether suggesting it's far from dead yet. Its palate is undeniably alive, mineral touched and shows hints of sour cream from start to finish, with a carefully laid, evolved note of brine marked by a slight honeyed richness and graced by further touches of white pear and a tangy citric structure that invokes a soft, foamy effervescence, before it tightens gently down the final stretch. In essence, all these features add up to an evenly developed, ideally composed 17 year old Adelaide Hills sparkling.

ü+ Well, slap me down and call me silly, because Croser's 1994 magnum is fresh, complex and an absolute joy to drink. A real surprise. Drink now.

93 points

www.petaluma.com.au

COLDSTREAM HILLS PINOT NOIR CHARDONNAY 2004

- Yarra Valley, VIC

- $29-$35

- Cork

- 12.0%alc

If Tasmania's my first port of call for Australian sparklings (which it is), then the Yarra Valley would go pretty close to being my second. The Yarra delivered a trio of top class fizzers from 2004, under the labels of Yarrabank (93pts), Coldstream Hills (92pts from Feb '09) and the late release Yarra Burn Blanc de Blancs (93pts).

Still a youthful looking pale-straw colour, Coldstream Hills' 2004 presents a fresh nose scented with gently honeyed citrus fruits, white nectarines, nougat and creamed nuts in an evenly balanced fashion. Its aroma is fresh and invigorating - sheer delight really. Very creamy and rather sumptuous on entry, yet distinctly medium in weight, its palate pushes through a clean and clear mouthful of mineral and brine flavours with a soft, foamy finish framed by a surprisingly stringy cut of grapefruit-like acids. It could use a bit more effervescent tightness really, as its finish seems fractionally loose and fades away somewhat in structural intensity, but its good length of creamy, texture driven flavour remains a plus.

O Coldstream Hills' 2004 still blooms with the sexy fragrant qualities that made me fall in love with it 2 years ago, but it is starting to look a little loose through the back palate now, so I'd drink up. Drink now.

90 points

www.coldstreamhills.com.au

TYRRELL'S VAT 1 SEMILLON 1999

- Lower Hunter Valley, NSW

- $40-$59

- Cork (crumbled)

- 10.3%alc

Nearly 4 years ago I reviewed the 1999 Vat 1, awarding it 95 points and finding it one of the finest, most texturally inspiring Hunter sems I've ever had. However, even in 2007 I felt it was near peak, but there was a devilishly curious voice inside my head that told me to sit a bottle aside for another 4 years to see what happens then. Well, 2011 is here now and I just can't wait anymore!

For the third time in 4 years Tyrrell's 1999 Vat 1 has presented me with a busted cork, but once over that minor disappointment it's all uphill from there. Its secondary characters have well and truly nestled in now, with aromas of toast, creamed nuts and honeyed wheat puffs being expressed in a far more exaggerated fashion than in 2007, while its citrus profile makes a statement through a fleeting scent of citric marmalade spread across buttered toast. Despite being rather savoury initially and definitively fluffy, the palate shows a fair amount of tang to progress. Its upfront tones of multi-grain toast, butter and vanilla pod go through a complex transitional stage touching on green capsicum, before emerging with a honey-dipped lemony lift to fly through the back palate. There's a surprisingly tight grip of dry, tangy acids coating the wine as well, but it doesn't quite carry through to a marathon finish.

ü+ Although I hold a miniscule quibble with the length here; the extra degree of complex character gained through bottle age, whilst still retaining freshness and acid structure, has resulted in a wine which is no less brilliant now than it was several years ago. This is why Australians hide Hunter semillon under their beds. Drink now.

95 points

www.tyrrells.com.au

GROSSET PICCADILLY CHARDONNAY 2004

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $43-$59

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

The first day of spring has arrived and with it comes blue skies (well, today was grey but monday was blue), higher hopes and the news that Grosset's cellar door is about to re-open. To mark the occasion I'm pulling one of Mr Grosset's recent classics from my cellar; the 2004 Piccadilly Chardonnay.

At 6 years old Grosset's Chardonnay is brightly scented with funky, melted butter-like aromas of primary fruits, which have evolved over time with its winemaker inputs to produce a product greater than the sum of its parts. Its fragrance genuinely enthralls the nose, with distinctive tones of cumquat, white nectarine and paw paw underpinned by rich, inviting suggestions of nutty white nougat and vanilla. Smooth, spotless and stylish, its vibrant palate graces the mouth with a wonderfully soft yet full and creamy announcement of perfectly integrated fruit and oak, before the whole package is faultlessly harmonised by soft, fluffy acids that refine the wine as it penetrates, leaving the mouth feeling majestically clean and refreshed.

ü+ An essential Grosset Chardonnay. Drink to 2012.

96 points

www.grosset.com.au

WOLF BLASS GOLD LABEL CHARDONNAY 2005

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $16-$25

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

By my last count there's presently 9 different label colours in the Wolf Blass range (red, yellow, green, silver, gold, grey/ex-brown, white, black and platinum). What's next? Pink Label Moscato? Fawn Label Pinot Grigio? Anyway, onto the wine. If you ask me, the Gold Label Chardonnay usually offers some of the best value drinking from within the Wolf Blass technicolour dreamcoat.

Ripe, peachy, punchy and pungent, this 5 year old chardonnay presents creamy aromas of nectarine, melon, grapefruit and wheatmeal with an oak influence that's settled nicely into its fruit over time. Full, round and fat, its rich palate displays an extravagant level of creamy extract, with bold yet soft varietal fruit flavours marked by really gentle acids and a lingering note of burnt, lemon infused creme brulee.

ü Three years on from my last review (May '07-91pts) and this hasn't gained too much in the way of complexity, but it has evolved into an extremely generously proportioned chardonnay with a very soft structure. Drink now.

90 points

www.wolfblass.com.au

ASHTON HILLS RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2004

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $55-$80

- Screwcap

- 14.0%alc

The recent emergence of Tapanappa has certainly given Ashton Hills some serious competition in the South Australian pinot noir stakes, however, if there's one thing Stephen George's label has that Brian Croser's doesn't, it's a back catalogue full of mature wines. Ashton Hills' best wine is the Reserve Pinot Noir, and I'd like to graciously thank Stephen for the bottles of his 2004.

Very wild, funky and developed; its ultra-complex yet fresh, multi-faceted and spearmint driven bouquet of gumleaf, creamed strawberries and caramel also reveals an earthy/leathery expression of cherry fruits and cinnamon. Its aromatic lift just screams; 'touch me'. It's supple, with a mildly juicy, medium-bodied and sappy presence of earth and dry red cherry flavours marked by a lithe outline of soft acids, which are complemented by a gentle, sensual tannic structure that leaves the mouth in a well mannered fashion indicative of high etiquette. The wine travels long down the palate with a wonderfully even persistence of perfectly pitched, complex, texture driven mature pinot character, before climaxing in a very precise, savoury and attractive manner with just a touch of bite.

ü+ Stunning. Ashton Hills' 2004 Reserve is an overwhelmingly seductive South Australian pinot noir, which is all about perfume and touch. You could hold onto it for another few years but I wouldn't bother; it's drinking so well right now. Just sit, saviour and enjoy. Drink to 2011.

95 points

ANNIE'S LANE CABERNET MERLOT 2002

- Clare Valley, SA

- $11-$21

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

Although still popular with consumers and discount retailers (doubtlessly relative!), the base range of Annie's Lane has hardly inspired me lately. In fact, the last Annie's Lane base range wine that did meet with my approval was their Cabernet Merlot from the excellent 2002 vintage (92pts-June '06), which caused enough excitement for me to sit a bottle aside until now.

Appearing a dark brick-red/crimson, its lively perfume of herbal-edged sour plums and raspberries also reveal aspects of dusted earth, aniseed and toasty chocolate oak, which altogether suggests there's plenty of life in this cheap cabernet blend yet. Smooth and syrupy on entry, its vividly flavoured, medium-full bodied palate progresses with a dusty extract of surprisingly assertive, prickly tannins, leaving the mouth with lingering nuances of black plum and fennel. Even at 8 years old there remains ample fruit and structure, but thankfully, it's completely in balance.

ü+ At its often discounted price the 2002 Annie's Lane Cabernet Merlot beautifully demonstrates the (not always relevant) theory; 'good vintage + cheap wine = great value for the cellar'. In hindsight I might've preferred this at 10, or perhaps even 12 years of age. Drink to 2012.

92 points

www.annieslane.com.au

HENSCHKE MOUNT EDELSTONE SHIRAZ 1995

- Eden Valley, SA

- $75-$135

- Cork (protruding/evenly stained right through)

- 14.0%alc

On a recent visit to the winery I noticed Henschke selling off cellar release bottles of the 1995 Mount Edelstone for $110 (current vintage $89), however, this bottle isn't one of those, it's been in my collection for some time and now sports an ominously protruding cork.

This 15 year old Mount Edelstone still holds a red hue, but even after 4 hours in the decanter it remains rather flat in aroma, presenting a somewhat nullified expression of redcurrant, sweet red cherry and licorice residing beneath a much stronger cedar component. It clearly lacks the aromatic vitality and character I expected. The palate however, is smooth, fluffy and gentle, with a surprisingly soft fullness; it combines a much more evenly balanced, if fairly simple combination of sweet red berry fruit and cedar oak. It fades out a fraction towards its finish, with a barely noticeable announcement of tannins softly touching the final climax.

O Once I got over the lack of aromatic quality, I found this wine to have a totally pleasant, soft and polite palate of very drinkable proportions. Sorry, but I feel this wine is the result of one particular, perhaps slightly off bottle, which would've drunk better about three years ago. I'm sure there will be better bottles of the '95 Mount Edelstone out there than this. Drink now.

90 points

www.henschke.com.au

PIRRAMIMMA PETIT VERDOT 2002

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $22-$31

- Cork

- 14.5%alc

McLaren Vale's Pirramimma is almost unanimously considered one of Australia's leading makers of straight petit verdot. In my opinion the 2002 was their finest achievement this century with the lesser known Bordeaux variety, which I previously rated 93 points back in August 2007.

Showing a clear whiff of fresh cedar, this 8 year old petit verdot opens to a settled, dusty and savoury bouquet of chocolate raisins and cooked meat overlying nuances of dried herb and pencil shavings. It's very silky, long and smooth, with a powdery framework set around its complex yet totally harmonious interweaving of medium-bodied red/blackcurrant, cedar, earth and dried herb flavour. Bearing the mark of true length of fruit sweetness (thank you 2002 vintage), it finishes with expansive notes of chocolate raisins and raspberry bullets touched by a moderate dryness, growing ever more compelling with every sip; just like a good mature red should.

ü+ Surprisingly complex, this wine changes unequivocally with time, air and temperature. All the same it's a great little expression of a McLaren Vale Bordeaux-style, and I've probably underestimated its cellaring life a fraction. Drink to 2012.

92 points

www.pirramimma.com.au

COLDSTREAM HILLS PINOT NOIR 2005

- Yarra Valley, VIC

- $23-$32

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

I can remember buying bottles of Coldstream Hills' 2005 Pinot Noir (93pts-Apr'07) in late 2006 for $23 each. In hindsight I can't recall drinking a better $23 bottle of Australian pinot since, so it is with mixed feelings of joy and regret I pull my last bottle from the cellar.

Appearing a dark brick red, this 5 year old pinot noir reveals an almost leathery bouquet of deep, damp earthy soils, sour cherry, cedar and gentle spice. Extravagantly silky, its sumptuous palate delivers layer upon layer of silky flavour, announcing darker notes of complex leather, cherry and earth which end wonderfully smooth and plush. It finishes very long and savoury, revealing a trace of pencil shavings before it just tightens a fraction at the climax.

ü+ Very attractive, sensuous and hedonistic; Coldstream Hills' 2005 Pinot Noir is drinking in peak form right now. Drink now.

93 points

www.coldstreamhills.com

PETALUMA COONAWARRA 2000

(Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot)

- Coonawarra, SA

- $43-$70

- Cork

- 14.0%alc

After digging out Petaluma's 2000 Coonawarra from the cellar I thought I'd also try to dig up any old reviews I could find on my bookshelf. (Pre-consumption) It delighted me to read in Langton's Australian Fine Wine Guide 5th Edition the words; "Super wine. 98 points. 2005-2012." The 2000 is a 50/50 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot aged in new Nevers and Alliers oak for 18 months.

It's still very fragrant and richly perfumed, with a violet-like bouquet of dusty cedar entwined with cassis, redcurrant and dry earth notes. Particularly smooth, its ready-to-drink palate contains good weight and richness through the mid-palate, with an assertive merlot component contributing a pleasing plumpness and leafy/olive aspects to its blackcurrant fruit core. Both tannins and oak have integrated nicely into a more velvety and fruit focused wine, and although it isn't terribly complex, it does present good length of sumptuous flavour with a lingering finish marked by moderate dryness.

ü A very slurpable and good, but not exceptional Coonawarra; the 2000's new oak and tannin have now been enveloped by its fruit, as perhaps more surprisingly its merlot overshadows its cabernet sauvignon. You could hold onto it for a few more years but I don't think it'll accomplish much. Drink to 2012.

93 points

www.petaluma.com.au