CASE IN POINT - TORBRECK CUVÉE JUVENILES 2009 (From 29-Sep-2010)

(Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro)

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $24-$33

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

One of the Barossa's highest profile producers, Torbreck, is an internationally recognised name well known for rather expensive, ultra-ripe, generously oaked reds packaged with distinctive white labels and visible corks. A unique wine within Torbreck's range is the Cuvée Juveniles; a relatively affordable, unoaked red with a coloured label and a screwcap closure.

I'm beginning to really appreciate unwooded Barossa GSMs for their ability to be cracked and enjoyed immediately, and Torbreck's 2009 Cuvée Juveniles instantly fits the bill, with a lightly spiced fragrance of liqueur cherries, blueberries, dates, currants, cinnamon and spirit that strikes an aromatic lift and warmth from first pour. However, the palate doesn't follow suit, as its initially pleasing burst of smooth, deep, dark, rich and pure GSM flavour is betrayed by a jarring acidity and an unpleasant rawness. Indeed the whole presentation seems to be left wanting once its plush entry is overcome by an edgy, thinning, ill-defining intensity; while a final, ungainly and lingering impression of ultra-ripe fruit, spirit and clove-like flavour does little to enhance the experience. With air it becomes marginally softer, but it never achieves true balance.

X This is a wine of two tales; a pleasing entry and a rough finish. Hopefully the latter might sort itself out with some more time in the bottle, but you'd probably be better off buying Teusner's 2009 Joshua instead. Drink 2011-2012.

84 points

Case In Point Update 9-November-2010

Casey: All the pleasing qualities of a GSM on the nose, with robust berries and a slight fortified grenache aroma. Lovely rounded flavour with a ripe, juicy burst and almost completely devoid of tannins. Finishes a little sweet on the palate.

Chris: Okay, so here's the first 'Case In Point' wine which I've re-reviewed because I believe my original note might have been based on a 'dud' bottle. Put simply, it was the off-putting, hard intensity of its finish which lead me to feel something wasn't quite right, and being the fair man that I am, I felt it possibly deserved better than this note. So how's the second bottle? Well, the hard finish is nowhere to be seen, in fact, it actually finishes quite soft with some pleasing spice elements, but other than that most of the original note remains true. So yes, I remain under the impression that my original note was taken on a 'dud' bottle. As a result I've re-written my original note, which can be found here, or under Red Blends in Wine Reviews in the sidebar. Anyway, my updated score is....89

www.torbreck.com

CASE IN POINT - KOOYONG MASSALE PINOT NOIR 2008 (From 21-Dec-2009)

- Mornington Peninsula, VIC

- $22-$32

- Cork (Diam)

- 13.0%alc

In the past I haven't enjoyed Kooyong's Massale as much as others. For my tastes the early releases were a tad thin, dilute and overly reliant on sour acidity for length. Still, I've kept with the Massale, and I'm glad to announce the 2008 has handsomely repaid my faith in the label.

Powerfully lifted and fragrant, its heady, spicy aromas of clove and cinnamon are underpinned by equally showy notes of dark cherry/kirsch, sweet raspberries and fresh cedar oak. It's much fuller and significantly more sumptuous than previous Massales, with a silken, rather plushly stained palate of liqueur dark cherry and dry earth flavours extending towards a more sour edged yet savoury, ably spiced finish. A harmonious tapestry of brittle tannin and bright, sour acidity frames the wine, which should settle down into a smoother, more sensual pinot with short term cellaring.

ü+ A huge improvement for Massale in terms of texture, depth, balance and focus. A great Mornington pinot at a terrific price. Drink 2011-2014.

91 points

Case In Point Update 22-April-2010

Casey: Instantly noticeable is the darker colour than previous pinots from this range, and this shows with the nose being much fuller and richer. Traditional gamey notes and bright berries burst from the glass. Smooth and well balanced on the palate, there's a slight drying of the mouth with lingering tones of foresty goodness and an acidic finish.

A great wine for a dedicated pinot man like myself. Keep on drinking.

Chris: Now here's a wine I was keen to observe over the shorter term ever since I first reviewed it. This is Casey's first blind (to my original review) note, and jeez, I think he's come up with a pretty accurate evaluation here.

I found the nose not quite as lifted, fragrant or spicy as I remembered, yet more settled and deeper. Although still sourish, its structure has mellowed significantly since December, turning out a much softer finish, and as a result I feel its moved into its ready to drink window quicker than I originally anticipated. Yes, it's already settled down into a much smoother, more sensuous pinot with very short term cellaring. It's still sumptuous and plushly stained but I'm changing its drinking window, due to faster than expected development. Drink to 2013. 91

www.kooyong.com

CASE IN POINT - MORRIS LIQUEUR TOKAY (From 22-Dec-09)

- Rutherglen, VIC

- $14-$21

- Screwcap

- 17.5%alc

For anyone looking for an entry point into the under-rated delights of Australia's rich and luscious fortified wines, they need look no further than the Morris Liqueur Tokay. At $15 it isn't just one of my perennial favourite Australian wines, it's also an absolute bargain. Every time I see it on a wine list, the little grandfather inside of me can't help but raise a suggestive smile.

A lush golden brown colour, this Non-Vintage Tokay opens to a fragrant nose of toffee, nuts and tea supported by overtones of fruitcake character. Luxuriantly smooth and sticky, with pleasing balance, its rich palate shows a myriad of bright, ripe tokay flavours with notes of honeyed sultana and toffee in the driver's seat. Of particular note is the fine finish; clean and generously long, with just a hint of spirity warmth which doesn't dominate.

ü+ Once all the sparkling shiraz has been polished off, there might not be a more appropriate way to wind down Christmas than a bottle of Morris Liqueur Tokay. Drink now.

92 points

Case In Point Update 19-Mar-2010

Casey: Golden brown in colour, with a lovely, rich viscosity and toffee and raisins on the nose. Silky smooth over the tongue, with abundant fresh Christmas fruitcake flavour. A subtle soul warming finish. A thing I love about a good fortified wine is it's so easy to review, with its aromatic vapours and rich, full palate. Even when retiring after a delicious dinner the bold characteristics of the wine shine through.

Chris: After a fair hiatus, welcome back Casey to Australian Wine Journal! As I look over my original note for the Morris Tokay, I must say there's barely a word I'd disagree with (the golden-brown colour is decidedly translucent though). Rather fortuitously, Casey's note also matches how I feel about the wine, if apparently spelt out a bit differently. I particularly like Casey's note about its 'rich viscosity', which I feel sums up the Morris Tokay's mouthfeel and flow exceptionally well. And yes, I too love how you can pull out a fortified wine after several previous courses of food and wine, yet still genuinely appreciate its pleasures. The next Case In Point will definitely NOT be a non-vintage wine by the way. My score remains the same. 92

www.morriswines.com.au

CASE IN POINT

I just want to introduce a new, hopefully regular segment to this website which will be titled Case In Point.

For the Case In Point segment I'll be introducing a friend of mine, Casey Shields, whom I've known for 20 years now. Casey, like myself, is a wine consumer with a serious thirst for quality wines, with no industry relations or experience. The two of us have toured numerous wine regions together, attended loads of wine tastings and downed copious bottles in each of others company. For the Case In Point posts I'll be selecting wines which have been reviewed by myself within the previous 6 months, and then Casey and myself will sit down and go over the wine again, using my original review as the starting point.

For the Case In Point posts I'll be reposting my original posts, with additional, updated comments from myself and Casey below.

Casey is a wine drinker in the purest sense, he has never reviewed a wine before, but has certainly done a lot of talking about the stuff. I can guarantee you he has no shortage of drinking experience, hell, he beat me to such famous regions as Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone!

Although it isn't original I like the concept of a second opinion on a bottle of wine, as well as a second look from the original reviewer (myself in this case). I'm looking forward to the Case In Point posts immensely, especially when it comes to seeing what a more 'standard' consumer has to write about wines (and my reviews!) for the first time. I'm hoping it'll provide interesting insight into how someone like Casey perceives wine. Of course, I thank Casey with the deepest gratitude for his time and input.

The first Case In Point relook has been posted below.

CASE IN POINT - PIZZINI SANGIOVESE 2008 (From 13-Aug-09)

- King Valley, VIC

- $22-$31

- Screwcap

- 13.9%alc

Despite a recent decline in plantings, there remains a well held belief that Australian sangiovese is on the brink of greater things. However, I sense its presence is predominantly recognised by industry types and serious drinkers, not the wider drinking community. Most consumers I communicate with haven't even heard of sangiovese, let alone know how to pronounce it (san-joe-vay-zee).

A winery which has championed Australian sangiovese with unmatched pride and lustre, Pizzini's 2008 is translucent garnet in colour. Unfolding to floral scents of bright cherry fruits, dusty earth, cinnamon spice, garden herbs and seasoned oak, its pleasingly gentle fragrance shares surprising elements with pinot noir. Light-medium, or even light in body, its youthful palate delivers a beautifully poised expression of soft and fluffy, sweet red fruit/savoury earth flavours, with a powdery chassis of drying tannin and lingering notes of licorice infused bright fruit completing a compelling package.

ü+ Much lighter, softer and significantly suppler than recent releases; Pizzini's 2008 is a skillfully harmonious and drinkable, fruit expressive sangiovese which should fill out nicely towards the medium term. Distinctly different, but the best since 2004 (93pts). Drink 2011-2015.

92 points

Case In Point Update 1-Dec-2009

Casey: Earthy tones, almost pinot noir-like with Christmas cherry aromas. Ever so slight tannins. Crisp finish with slight green notes in the mouth. A soft wine with still a certain amount of complexity. A well balanced, easy drinking wine.

Chris: For a first tasting note I have to agree with Casey quite a bit here. 4 months on and this wine still comes across as pinot-like to me on the nose as well. It certainly shows some sour edged acidity (which Case might be referring to as a crisp finish) and I like the Christmas cherry reference. After 60-90 minutes in the decanter this wine did show some slightly raw, hard edged, green characters as Casey points out, but I believe it came together very well after about the 2 hour mark. I also agree it is quite soft and surprisingly complex (both in mouthfeel and character) for such a young, $26 wine, but I do have to disagree in regards to the tannins. I still find them quite firm, drying and powdery, as opposed to slight. Thanks for the input Casey! In summary I tend to agree with my original note, except I think some of that 'sweet red fruit' character has moved on somewhat. 92

www.pizzini.com.au