D'ARENBERG THE NOBLE WRINKLED RIESLING 2010

- McLaren Vale, SA

- $20 (375ml)

- Screwcap

- 12.3%alc

I've been relatively impressed by d'Arenberg's recent efforts with their dessert riesling. The cleverly named Noble Wrinkled now leans towards a very rich, luscious, genuinely botrytised style, which, if anything, makes me eager to see what d'Arenberg can come up with from the generally botrytis riddled 2011 vintage. I mean, even Jeffrey Grosset made a botrytis riesling this year!

Just like a good Australian stickie should, d'Arenberg's 2010 Noble Wrinkled Riesling glows aromatically, with genuine vitality and life. It hits big nectarine and spicy green melon scents right within its stylistic groove, flying into the nose with a sweet, fruity, confected fragrance punched out further by a hint of apricot marmalade on toast. Smooth and sweet, its palate delves lusciously into the mouth's depths, releasing a literal duck dive of melon and burnt caramel flavours defined by an unctuous quality and a notably sticky progression. Its finish is enlivened by a timely wash of orange/citric acids, which refresh the palate whilst leaving a lasting note of orange zest-like flavour behind.

ü+ Quite delicious and really ready to go now, d'Arenberg's 2010 Noble Wrinkled is an easy two glass dessert wine for me. Drink to 2016.

91 points

www.darenberg.com.au

DE BORTOLI NOBLE ONE BOTRYTIS SEMILLON 2007

- Riverina, NSW

- $26-$35 (375ml)

- Screwcap

- 10.0%alc

Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places, but it seems to be taking an age for the 2008 vintage of Australia's premier dessert wine to reach Adelaide's retail shelves. Having said that, I thought I'd return to the excellent 2007 release, a wine which I recall first drinking almost 2 years ago.

With a little more bottle age under its belt now, the 2007 Noble One presents a lovely, big and bountiful nose, which opens up layers of aromatic bliss like an unfolding spring flower. A rich symposium of fresh nectarine, dried apricot and pineapple scents reside within, with additional fragrant complexity supplied by further suggestions of raisins, burnt butter, toffee and lemon zest. Stylistically, its scent is right on the money for the label, and so is its taste. Characterised primarily by its smoothness but also by its sheer volume, the palate is at once concentrated, sticky and silky, as its perfectly precise and bright blend of stonefruit and honey flavours are pushed seamlessly down the palate by its honeyed goodness, which accentuates itself with progression, issuing a wonderfully sticky hold alongside a persisting note of brulee to finish. Of course, the essential balancing act of length and refreshing acidity is present, making this one impressive, excessive Australian dessert wine.

ü+ Nearly 2 years on from my first encounter with it and the 2007 Noble One is really starting to hit its straps. It's not exactly a surprising wine, but it's always good to know De Bortoli is still nailing a style they first nailed 25 vintages previous. Drink to 2015.

94 points

www.debortoli.com.au

BROWN BROTHERS SPECIAL LATE HARVESTED ORANGE MUSCAT AND FLORA 2010

- Murray Darling, VIC

- $7-$15 (375ml)

- Screwcap

- 10.0%alc

As far as $10 stickies go, Brown Brothers' little sweetie is among the few I'm quite happy to drink. It's a relatively simple, late harvest style, creatively blended from 2 rare varieties. So unique is the blend of orange muscat (a member of the muscat family) and flora (a hybrid of semillon and gewurztraminer), that the back label even brandishes the Brown Brothers 'World Exclusive' tag.

There's a floral, moscato-like scent of musk emanating from Brown Brothers' 2010, with hints of orange/lemon zest and lychee juice adding interest to a carefully sweetened bouquet. Although matching the nose with a fairly sweet and simple profile, the palate shows a surprisingly concentrated thread of cool, rich flavour for its price, as it unwinds to a taste of stonefruit marmalade refreshingly lifted by notes of lemon citrus and a trail of lychee juice to pass. Its length achieves a pass mark, but it is fractionally tart to linger, however, it remains refreshing enough to down a whole glass (or two!) and at the price, there's little to complain about. It's definitely one to drink well chilled though.

ü Brown Brothers' continued perseverance with this wine shows in the 2010, which balances a surprising richness with refreshing acids and clean flavours. Bargain. Drink to 2013.

88 points

www.brownbrothers.com.au

GRAMP'S BOTRYTIS SEMILLON 2004

- Riverina, NSW

- $12-$22

- Cork

- 11.0%alc

Throughout 2007 I was smitten with the value for money offered by Gramp's 2004 Botrytis Semillon. My notes indicate I awarded it 94 points in April that year, while my cellar says I was happy enough to tuck some away. Fortunately, Gramp's more recent releases have continued the form set by the 2004 (2006-92pts, 2008-91pts), while the label's switch to screwcaps should only increase consumer confidence in its ability to age.

Now a glorious deep bronze/amber colour, this 7 year old dessert wine slowly unfolds a scent of honey biscuits with both sweet and savoury suggestions, as well as a pungent, rubbery aroma of ultra-ripe nectarines and melons parted by an additional note of honey ice cream. It's quite deep and richly scented, seemingly revealing an extra degree of honeyed goodness every time you stick your nose in. The palate follows suit with an incredibly full, rich and luscious presence of honeyed stonefruit flavours, which may have been exaggerated by a few years bottle age, but it pushes on with length and smoothness. A persistent toasty oak extract lingers underneath a faintly tart coverage of brisk acids; exciting the finish, before both these elements are overawed by a powerful wave of sweet stonefruit flavour that surges to the end.

ü+ Gramp's 2004 Botrytis Semillon is smooth, rich and in no way short of impact, but it's long and refreshing enough to pull it off. I'm so glad I have one left....... for now. Drink now.

94 points

www.gramps.com.au

TAMAR RIDGE KAYENA VINEYARD BOTRYTIS RIESLING 2007

- Tamar Valley, TAS

- $22-$25

- Screwcap

- 9.0%alc

Last year's welcomed news of Brown Brothers purchasing Tamar Ridge from Gunns Ltd cast blue skies over what was previously considered a grey cloud on Tasmanian wine. I love Tasmanian wine and I like the move by Brown Brothers, so I wish them all the best with their future endeavours on the Apple Isle.

There's quite a striking, deep golden colour to Tamar Ridge's 2007 Botrytis Riesling, which translates into a nose beset with some real botrytis influence. It's funky and almost rubbery, with an aroma of ultra-ripe stonefruits touched by hints of light honey, fig, faint citrus and something resembling burnt brown sugar/caramel. Any indication of riesling's primary lemon/lime citrus fruits have certainly been modified and developed here. On the palate it pumps a rich and luscious length of flavour, as its mouth-coating, even flow of orange/citrus marmalade characters morph into sticky toffee and apricot-like tones, which cumulatively display a near perfect, essential balance of rich sweetness and refreshing acidity throughout. Despite its substantial richness and impact, the whole package just seems so smooth, effortless and seamless, making it a dessert wine I'm more than happy to go back to after the first glass.

ü+ Made in a rich and ultimately satisfying style, the 2007 Kayena Vineyard is among the best Australian dessert rieslings I've had. It's actually surprised me. For all the hatred, Tamar Ridge certainly made some good wine while under the control of Gunns Limited.... Drink to 2013.

92 points

www.tamarridge.com.au

GRAMP'S BOTRYTIS SEMILLON 2008

- Riverina, NSW

- $14-$22

- Screwcap

- 9.0%alc

Orlando's Gramp's label produces one of Australia's most satisfying botrytis semillons in a style that's more than comparable to De Bortoli's Noble One. The Gramp's is practically as widespread as Australia's benchmark 'sticky' and even easier on the hip pocket, which makes me wonder why it isn't more commonplace on restaurant wine lists (we tend to get Woodstock's Sweet White as the Noble One 'alternative' in Adelaide).

This low-alcohol botrytis semillon shows off a pungent, funky aroma, and although it's difficult to pinpoint with adjectives I can't help but think of a rubber ball covered in a honey/marmalade blend and punctured by bark chips and crushed nuts, lying in a baking summer sun. Much to my pleasure the palate is far more recognisable. Rich and luscious, it oozes the length and depth of juicy, fresh stonefruit, marmalade and candied citrus flavours that typify the label when young, with a warm yet refreshing, sticky acidity that directs and cleanses the finish alongside further suggestions of stonefruit and glucose.

ü+ Another pleasingly rich and refreshing dessert wine from Gramp's which achieves everything you'd want for the price. Just think fun, sun, and perhaps even a bit of the burnt and the bizarre. Drink to 2013.

91 points

www.orlandowines.com.au

PIRRAMIMMA LATE HARVEST SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $4.84

- Screwcap

- 11.0%alc

The words 'Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc' don't exactly jump out to me as a style of Australian wine I'd usually buy, but I can see its maker's intentions of combining 2 relatively popular styles (at cellar doors and with younger drinkers) to create a wine able to appease the masses. If the style appeals to you and you shop at Grays Online, the price here is probably quite fair.

The first thing to strike me about Pirramimma's Late Harvest savvy is the presence of some lightly varietal aromatics; lychees, pineapples and a slight vegetal influence state its grape of origin, however, these tones are partnered by a funky/sweaty edge and a moscato-like grapey/musky element. Unfortunately, the palate disappoints from word-go with the main culprits being a lack of true flavour or refreshment. It reveals a sweet, simple expression of white grape juice flavour with candied/musky edges and a relatively soft acidity that does spike a fraction, and that's pretty much where the story ends.

X Thanks to online wine auctioning this should be attractively priced for the everyday wine market. It's just a shame that late harvest Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc is far from the type of wine I'd drink every day. Drink now.

84 points

www.pirramimma.com.au

http://www.graysonline.com/wine

MCWILLIAM'S MORNING LIGHT BOTRYTIS SEMILLON 2007

- Riverina, NSW

- $20-$28

- Screwcap

- 12.0%alc

New South Wales' inland Riverina district produces several benchmark expressions of Australian botrytis semillon. Apart from the obvious selection of De Bortoli's ever popular Noble One, McWilliam's also make a Riverina sticky that's worth a look for those in search of something different.

Showing a deep, rich golden-brown colour, the 2007 Morning Light opens to an equally rich nose scented with burnt toffee, apricots and marzipan with an assertive influence of vanilla oak evident throughout. On the palate it's also very rich, forward and unctuous, with a thick, lusciously set expression of honey, ripe stonefruit and marmalade flavour that enters with conviction. However, the finish lacks classic shape and freshness, as its fairly impressive length is drawn out more by enduring burnt toffee and dried apricot notes than clean, refreshing acidity, but it still makes for a very enjoyable, luscious dessert wine to be consumed over the shorter term.

ü McWilliam's 2007 Morning Light is a good sticky but if you have the money I'd opt for the 2007 Noble One instead, or if you don't have the money I'd go for the 2006 Gramps. Both of those should be more commonplace than this wine as well. Drink to 2012.

90 points

www.mcwilliams.com.au

YALUMBA HAND PICKED BOTRYTIS VIOGNIER 2008

- Wrattonbully, SA

- $22-$30 (375ml)

- Screwcap

- 12.5%alc

My brief encounters with Australian botrytis viogniers have left me with the impression that it's a style of sweet wine with loads of potential in this country. Early examples I've had from both Yalumba (Wrattonbully 2007-91pts) and Cape Mentelle (Margaret River 2008-90pts) have cleverly demonstrated how the pungent, aromatic varietal qualities of viognier can combine fruitfully with the rich and luscious nature of botrytis wines.

Pale-yellow in the glass, Yalumba's 2008 reveals lightly fragrant, toasty aromas of creme brulee, vanilla, nectarine and lemon teacake with more savoury quality and refinement than anticipated. Its mouthfilling palate is notably fresh and beset with a pleasing richness through the middle section, offering a clean and clear spectrum of mineral infused stonefruit, lemon marmalade and cinnamon toast flavour. A synergy of botrytis and viognier provides some agreeable rubbery tones, before the wine finishes long with a soft brace of refreshing acidity, which just leaves the mouth salivating for more.

ü+ 2008 has produced another deliciously clean and addictive Yalumba Hand Picked Botrytis Viognier; surely one of Australia's most promising dessert wine labels. Drink to 2013.

91 points

www.yalumba.com

HEGGIES BOTRYTIS RIESLING 2007

 - Eden Valley, SA

 - $20-$30

 - Screwcap

 - 11.0%alc

As impressed as I've been with practically the entire Yalumba portfolio lately, I was equally impressed by the warm welcome I received at their cellar door recently. Thanks for the bottle Amanda!

Rather fresh, lightly fragrant aromas of melon, paw paw and citrus marmalade emanate from Heggies' 2007 Botrytis Riesling, with further notes of botrytis funk and lemon sherbet also apparent. A brimming, juicy front palate bursts with nicely concentrated and luscious, clear mineral, lemon, honey and sweet vanilla flavours, before finishing fresh with a wash of soft acids.

ü An easy drinking, cleanly balanced botrytis riesling which sits nicely in the 'not too sweet but sweet enough' side of dessert wines. Drink to 2011.

90 points

www.heggiesvineyard.com

DE BORTOLI DEEN DE BORTOLI VAT 5 BOTRYTIS SEMILLON 2006

 - Riverina, NSW

 - $9-$16

 - Screwcap

 - 11.0%alc

With rational principles and credible ranges such as Deen De Bortoli, Windy Peak and Sacred Hill (and even Gulf Station on a good day!), De Bortoli is fashioning one of Australia's best collections of quaffing wine. Their beautifully affordable Vat 5 Botrytis Semillon is sometimes referred to as 'poor man's Noble One'.

The 2006 Vat 5's fragrance of lemon/orange citrus and apricot is presented in a marmalade-like fashion, with hints of confectionary nuts and sweet pastry providing further interest. Light to medium in weight, the palate contains a similar flavour profile to its aroma but with a touch more oak evident. Its finish is marked by an accentuating sweetness and toasty characters, which grip the back palate without compromising too much in the way of freshness.

ü Just as you'd expect from De Bortoli; a well made, genuine sweet wine which is value plus. Drink to 2011.

88 points

www.debortoli.com.au

VASSE FELIX CANE CUT SEMILLON 2008

 - Margaret River, WA

 - $18-$25

 - Screwcap

 - 12.0%alc

Vasse Felix make this dessert semillon using the cane cut technique. By cutting the cane at the shoot's base, the grape bunches are left detached from the vine. Over a period of time (6 weeks in this case) this method concentrates grape flavour and sugar, often resulting in lusciously sweet wines.

Intriguing in appearance yet even more intriguing in aroma, its light gold/beige colour foretells a fragrance of grilled nuts, capsicum, ginger, lemon tart and clove. Long, juicy and quirky, the palate delivers tart accents of ginger spice, capsicum and mandarin rind wrapped in toasty vanilla oak, with a mildly luscious presence of sweetness and perhaps even a trace of cooked flavour.

O This isn't a flawless wine, but its complex, idiosyncratic nuances should appeal greatly to adventurous drinkers. Drink to 2012.

89 points

www.vassefelix.com.au

WOODSTOCK BOTRYTIS SWEET WHITE 2005

 - South Australia

 - $14-$21

 - Screwcap

 - 10.5%alc

I last reviewed Woodstock's Semillon based 2005 Botrytis Sweet White in March 2007, finding it 'refreshingly light, vibrant and very tasty-92pts'. Despite being on store shelves for over two years it remains the current vintage, although it now brandishes a new bottle with redesigned label (the old bottle is pictured).

Now a golden/amber colour at four years old, it unfolds to honeyed aromas of orange peel, sultanas and apricot marmalade. Rather forward and viscous, the palate shows somewhat evolved flavours of oily, buttered grilled nuts and stonefruit/marmalade framed by tart acids, however, it lacks the drive and length which was imparted by clean, refreshing acidity when it was young.

O Woodstock's 2005 Botrytis Sweet White was a better, fresher drink two years ago, but it still makes a delicious accompaniment to any cheese platter. Drink now.

89 points

www.woodstockwine.com.au

SWEET WINES (4)

Sweet wines, or dessert wines as they're sometimes known, come in a variety of guises in Australia.

I think you could categorize them into two distinct groups. There are those who produce relatively light, sugary sweet wines at lower price points, such as moscato and late harvest frontignac, and there are those who do it seriously, with the intention of producing exceptional wines.

The best examples of great Australian sweet wines usually come from botrytis influenced semillon grapes, although riesling and sometimes gewurtztraminer are common also.

For those unaware, botrytis is a natural mould which can occur on grapes left hanging on the vine after harvest. Botrytis (or noble rot) kind of raisins the grapes, concentrating their natural sugar levels. The resulting wines are lusciously rich and sweet, but a great irony of sweet wines is they mustn't be too sweet or cloying, as their natural sweetness must be offset by cleansing, refreshing acidity.

For my reviews here I've chosen four current vintage Aussie 'stickies'; Brown Brothers Orange Muscat and Flora 2008, De Bortoli Noble One 2006, Gramps Botrytis Semillon 2006 and the Joseph LaMaglia 2008.

BROWN BROTHERS ORANGE MUSCAT AND FLORA 2008

 - Region: Murray Darling, VIC

 - Price: $7-$15

Brown Brothers make this affordably popular sweet wine form a blend of two unlikely grape varieties in orange muscat and flora. As the name suggests, orange muscat is a member of the muscat family, while flora is a hybrid variety created in the 1950s by American scientists who crossed semillon with gewurtztraminer.

Smelling sweet and musky, the 2008 displays a pleasingly gentle, floral nose of rose petals and lychees overlying notes of dried apricot. Unexpectedly well balanced, its delightfully refreshing palate delivers a clean expression of lychee juice and rose oil, before it finishes moderately long with slightly tart, ripe apricot flavours and a lingering sweetness.

ü+ Much to my pleasant surprise, Brown Brothers' perseverance with the adventurous and experimental has produced one of the most delicious moscato style wines on the market. Cheers to Brown Brothers. Drink to 2011.

88 points

DE BORTOLI NOBLE ONE BOTRYTIS SEMILLON 2006

 - Region: Riverina, NSW

 - Price: $26-$41

The only sweet wine included in Langton's Classification of Australian Wine is De Bortoli's highly regarded Noble One. Since its first release in 1982 it's been the measuring stick for all Australian 'stickies'.

Beset with a beautifully composed yet precise measure of botrytis, the 2006 Noble One reveals a perfectly balanced aroma scented with rich marmalade, creme brulee and citrus infused notes of mineral. Incredibly rich yet eloquently sophisticated, the immaculately structured palate builds with citric acids flowing off a delicious core of stonefruit, lime and marmalade flavours. It finishes long and clean with one of the most refreshing cuts of post-botrytis, pink sherbet-like acids you could hope for.

ü+ After a couple of vintages which didn't quite live up to expectations, the 2006 Noble One is right back on song. A breathtaking dessert wine; a near ultimate expression of the Australian style. Drink to 2014.

95 points

GRAMP'S BOTRYTIS SEMILLON 2006

 - Region: Griffith, NSW

 - Price: $14-$23

After an exceptional 2004 release (94pts), it seems Orlando chose not to release a Gramp's dessert wine from 2005. I do wish more producers would consider not releasing wines in unsuitable vintages. 

In true Gramp's style the 2006 Botrytis Semillon is bright, vibrant and laden with scents of honeyed sultanas and orange peel. Full, smooth and luscious, its rich palate delves with sweet flavours of roasted toffee nuts, honey and nectarine, leaving the mouth refreshed with lingering notes of apricot.

ü+ The 2006 is another deliciously rich and luscious dessert wine from Orlando's Gramps brand, one of Australia's best labels for botrytis semillon. Drink to 2011.

92 points

JOSEPH LA MAGLIA BOTRYTIS RIESLING TRAMINER 2008

 - Region: McLaren Vale/Coonawarra, SA

 - Price: $26-$36

In reading a newsletter from the Italian inspired Primo Estate/Joseph camp, it enthralled me to hear how excited they were of their La Maglia dessert wine being served to the Pope Benedict during his Australian visit. The 2008 wine incorporates a 15% component of raisined gewurtztraminer grapes from Coonawarra.

A genuine influence of botrytis introduces the nose, followed by vivid aromas of white nectarine, orange marmalade and fresh citrus. Its full, rich and concentrated flavours work with great intensity, delivering viscous yet cleanly balanced tones of white stonefruit, melon and sweet lemon butter, with a penetrating finish where its sweetness is wonderfully offset by clean, uplifting acidity.

ü+ Utterly brilliant; is there anything Joe Grilli can't do? Drink to 2015.

94 points