RIPOSTE THE SABRE PINOT NOIR 2009

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $26-$33

- Screwcap (Stelvin-Lux)

- 14.0%alc

Yes; I am one of those people who isn't fully convinced the Adelaide Hills has made it as an elite pinot noir region just yet (Ashton Hills being the notable exception). One label I believe is capable of changing my opinion, is veteran winemaker Tim Knappstein's Riposte, which delivered a very attractive, cleanly balanced Sabre Pinot Noir from 2007 (91pts). More recently, Tim's 2009 won the trophy for 'Best Pinot Noir' at last year's Adelaide Hills Wine Show.

Riposte's 2009 Pinot Noir throws off a fairly woody scent to commence (10 months French oak, 10% new), which does restrain its stalk-edged dark fruits somewhat, before a timely, gentle aromatic lift arrives in the form of dry spice. The palate shows an interesting combination of lean boundary lines filled in by a rather rich, dark fruited and meaty interior, but like many from the Hills, it's textural expression isn't exactly a pinophile's dream. Its ripe flavour finishes with a procrastinating extension that follows the lines set by its fore-palate, revealing dark cherry liqueur and apricot kernel notes underneath a tight, dry and ultra-fine structure. With extended aeration it seems riper, richer and smoother, which isn't necessarily a good thing, as it also seems less varietal.

O A fair Adelaide Hills pinot noir, which isn't exactly jumping from the region's pack. I'm sure it'll have its fans. At least Tim Knappstein has his Riposte at a fair price point. Drink 2012-2014.

89 points

www.timknappstein.com.au

SAVATERRE CHARDONNAY 2008

- Beechworth, VIC

- $70

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

The introduction of Savaterre Chardonnay into Langton's latest classification really caught my eye. Why? Because I've never had it before and can't pass judgement. A bit of research reveals it as a high quality chardonnay (obviously) from the same region that brings us Giaconda. That's about all the selling I needed...

After following the back label's advice to decant for several hours, Savaterre's unfiltered and deeply coloured 2008 unloads a good dollop of toasty, buttery oak aromas laid in place by 2 years French oak maturation. Its wood is quite prominent at this stage but underneath it you'll find a deep fragrance of cumquat and peach, just lifted by a tight note of cinnamon. There could be a lack of buzz to its complex, relatively profound scent, but I can see time sorting things out. Beautifully textured, bright and savoury, its palate is sumptuously expressive yet soft and fluffy, revealing a considerable strength concealed by a gentle nature. It presents a smooth and seamless balance of faintly tropical chardonnay fruits with toasty/buttery oak, framed by a viscous undercarriage of yeasty characters and a refreshingly brisk acidity, which combine to deliver the wine with perfect harmony towards a good, spotlessly clean finish marked by tasty touches of buttery nuts and light spice.

ü+ A superbly textured chardonnay whose complex winemaker inputs play the starring role, but its quality of fruit is such that it remains a most brilliant drink. It'll be particularly interesting to see how this balance evolves over the next few years. Drink to 2016.

95 points

www.savaterre.com

MOUNT PLEASANT ELIZABETH SEMILLON 2010

- Hunter Valley, NSW

- $11-$20

- Screwcap

- 11.5%alc

Mount Pleasant certainly shocked a few people last year, thanks to the arrival of a 2010 Elizabeth released with practically no bottle age and a splash of sauvignon blanc (?), which runs parallel with the bottle aged Elizabeth. Perhaps McWilliam's could've avoided some confusion AND attracted the attention of monarchists, by naming the new wine Mount Pleasant Elizabeth II.

Although not exceptionally clean or pure on the nose, Mount Pleasant's 2010 Elizabeth smells quite expressive and funky for such a young Hunter sem. Ripe rockmelons and a tinge of citrus blossom adorn its fragrance, as well as an ever so sly hint of sweaty tropical fruit that suggests there may be another passenger along for the ride. The palate moves quickly into a surprisingly full, rich middle section, with fresh rockmelon, bitter-edged green apple and faint tobacco flavours, but the palate extension expected of good young Hunter semillon never really occurs, leaving the mouth feeling fractionally nonplussed if you have high expectations of Hunter semillon.

O Hmmm. The back label states; 'this 2010 Elizabeth is made for immediate enjoyment', a statement which may differ from what consumers have come to expect from Elizabeth, but with the 2010's straight forward length and acid structure, it isn't exactly what you'd desire in such a young Lizzy. Light seafood lunch special. Drink to 2015.

88 points

www.mountpleasantwines.com.au

VASSE FELIX CABERNET MERLOT 2008

- Margaret River, WA

- $17-$26

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

The Margaret River's oldest winery; Vasse Felix, produces 3 variations of the region's red specialty. For my money, Vasse's middle-tiered Cabernet Sauvignon typically over delivers, the reserve-level Heytesbury delivers as it should, while the cheapest wine; the Cabernet Merlot, can be something of a let down. Clearly I'm hoping the excellent 2008 vintage has produced a Cabernet Merlot wholly deserving of the Vasse Felix name.

Much more in the house style than previous releases, the 2008 Cabernet Merlot happily sprays a potently herbal, leafy perfume over its evenly set, dusted blackberry and redcurrant aromas. Backed by additional notes of toasty cedar/chocolate oak and a surprising whiff of spice, it's piercingly aromatic in a fashion bound to be recognised by Vasse followers. Thankfully, the palate mirrors the nose with a flawless display of 'bang for your buck' Vasse quality. Its medium-bodied, deliciously sour-edged black/redcurrant flavours wash down the palate with toasty cedar/coffee oak and herbal side plates, before its long extension builds with impressive dryness, laid out by an ever present, lively acid grip and ultra-fine, intensifying tannins. It is intense and perhaps edgy in its youthful state, but there's also a richness, elegance and completeness that was lacking from the label's recent outings.

ü+ You gotta love it when a label turns things around on you, in a good way. The 2008 is the best Cabernet Merlot I've had from Vasse Felix, and the first one I'll be buying more than one of. It's pure Vasse at a paltry price. Drink to 2018.

92 points

www.vassefelix.com.au

BARWANG 842 CHARDONNAY 2008

- Tumbarumba, NSW

- $30-$43

- Screwcap

- 13.5%alc

As much as it pleases me to see 'Australia's First Families of Wine' getting behind emerging regions, my attention was well and truly turned when a brand synonymous with Hilltops reds chose a Tumbarumba chardonnay as their flagship. Fortunately the 842 Chardonnay (named after the elevation of its vineyard site) has been nothing short of impressive since its 2006 debut.

An aromatic line of citrus infused white nectarines and pears ignite the nose of Barwang's 2008 842, aided by smoother suggestions of nougat, vanilla oak and leesy/nutty barrel ferment notes, which complement character, complexity and an attractive balance of sweet and savoury intrigue. The smooth and sumptuous palate is agreeably rich in a generous, creamy and fractionally forward manner, but its melon and herb fruit expression is crystal clear, light and white in the classic (if slightly plump) cool-climate mould. Buttery oak and more savoury notes of matchstick/wheatmeal emanate from its plump and juicy, clear fruit base, lingering into the aftertaste alongside a regrouping of herbal melon tones and an effortless balance of polished, squeaky clean acids, which carry and hold the wine with charming grace.

ü+ Although it would benefit from a bit more length and refinement, Barwang's 2008 842 Chardonnay is a wonderful package with enough richness and winemaker induced complexity to make an impression, yet just enough restraint of cool-climate accent to please the modernists. It's drinking beautifully right now. Drink to 2014.

93 points

www.mcwilliams.com.au

CROSER 1994 (Magnum)

- Adelaide Hills, SA

- $60-$90? (Gift)

- Cork

- 12.5%alc

I was lucky enough to receive a magnum of 1994 Croser from some very dear friends of mine, who told me it was recently purchased from Petaluma's cellar door. Honestly, I wouldn't have thought a 17 year old Croser would be at its freshest right now, but if it's for sale at Bridgewater Mill (a first rate sparkling wine storage facility) and it's a magnum...

A faint yellow/gold tinge adorns the predominantly pale-straw coloured 1994 Croser. Although it lacks foam, bead and lace in the glass, it opens to an attractively smoky fragrance of creamy lemon citrus, brine and vanilla; altogether suggesting it's far from dead yet. Its palate is undeniably alive, mineral touched and shows hints of sour cream from start to finish, with a carefully laid, evolved note of brine marked by a slight honeyed richness and graced by further touches of white pear and a tangy citric structure that invokes a soft, foamy effervescence, before it tightens gently down the final stretch. In essence, all these features add up to an evenly developed, ideally composed 17 year old Adelaide Hills sparkling.

ü+ Well, slap me down and call me silly, because Croser's 1994 magnum is fresh, complex and an absolute joy to drink. A real surprise. Drink now.

93 points

www.petaluma.com.au

SALTRAM WINEMAKER'S SELECTION SHIRAZ TEMPRANILLO 2008

- Barossa Valley, SA

- $50

- Screwcap

- 14.5%alc

It's readily apparent that hot, dry, challenging seasons like 2008 are bound to become a common occurrence in the future of the Barossa Valley (my apologies in regards to what happened in the region on Tuesday night!), in which case, winemakers would do well to invest in new styles to tackle the ever changing climatic conditions. If Shavaughn Wells' 2008 Winemaker's Selection is anything to go by, then shiraz tempranillo blends look a commendable choice. It's a 65/35 blend, aged in 100% French oak (25% new) for 10 months.

Throwing up heady scents of dusty, exotic spices and violet florals, Saltram's 2008 immediately proclaims its tempranillo influence (after a stint in the decanter that is), which is beautifully beefed up by a deeply set array of classically Barossan, old-vine shiraz fruit aromas; licorice/aniseed, black plums and forest berries, all meshed with melted chocolate. Smooth, silky and downright sensuous, its palate presents an evenly styled length of well ripened, harmonious flavours that are admittedly much more shiraz-like than tempranillo, but it's altogether rich and wholesome in the truest regional sense. As its deep flavours are lifted through the back palate by an agreeably lithe, stringy acid structure beset with firm tannins, a rather ripe hint of spicy date rears its head, but its balanced finish remains undisrupted; composed and regal, with not a hair out of place.

ü+ So, so close to perfect. A touch more savoury accent, spice and tempranillo tickle and it would've been there. I wonder whether it was held back by the sumptuous nature of Barossa reds, the hot 2008 season, or something completely different altogether. My mind is keenly tuned to the future on this one. Drink to 2018.

94 points

www.saltramwines.com.au

A TRIO OF HOUSE MADE, WOOD OVEN PIZZAS AT SALTRAM, WITH A NEW-AGE BAROSSAN SHIRAZ TEMPRANILLO

From left to right:

Greek lamb with tzatziki and fresh mint leaves

Paprika roasted potato, bacon, mozzarella, sour cream and chives

Vegetarian - basil and cashew pesto, roast capsicum, cherry tomatoes, olives, feta, snow pea sprouts and sun-dried tomato aioli

At $20 each the Greek lamb and potato/bacon pizza were more than adequate, but the vegetarian pizza completely hogged the limelight. Its rustic, house made dough, absolutely delicious basil and cashew pesto base, scattered shards of roast garlic, lubricating sun-dried tomato aioli and the crisp crunch of snow pea sprout garnish; all worked together like an Australian pizza lover's wet dream. Quite simply one of the best pizzas I've ever had. Never before have I been so glad to have a friend who doesn't eat meat....

The pizza at Saltram is made from scratch, so if you do order some, prepare with patience. Still, it gives you plenty of time to do a tasting at the cellar door, peruse the grounds, and then enjoy some live music whilst sipping a glass of beautiful shiraz tempranillo.

PRIMO ESTATE LA BIONDINA COLOMBARD 2010

- Adelaide Plains, SA

- $10-$20

- Screwcap

- 12.0%alc

Even though summer's almost over, the recent hot spell reminded me it's about time I picked up my annual supply of Primo Estate's La Biondina. Cheap, cheerful and simply shameless summertime whites generally don't come much better.

With suggestions of green apple and melon most evident on the nose, the 2010 La Biondina seems more refined and perhaps greener than recent efforts, but there's also a scent of the label's classic passionfruit, and ultimately, it's all very clean and fresh in the truest La Biondina sense. Matching the nose is a refreshing cleanliness that highlights and delivers its juicy, mouth-filling white grape flavour, which hits the front and mid-sections nicely, just as a wine of its type should. Pure and simple, refreshingly soft acids provide a gently balancing framework for its finish, with lingering tastes of rockmelon and gooseberry sticking around for sweetly set goodbye notes. It's straight-up delicious and shameless, like licking sweat off your partner's back.

ü+ The cleanly balanced, fruity and flavoursome 2010 sits right back in the La Biondina's style groove. Top form. Drink now.

90 points

www.primoestate.com.au

OZ WINE TOONS

And with that handshake, the world's most passionate believer in global warming secured the land for his future vineyard site