Wednesday, December 30, 2009

SHAW VINEYARD ESTATE ISABELLA RIESLING 2009

- Canberra District
- $28
- Screwcap
- 11.0%alc

Said to be made in a 'typical Germanic style', the handpicked Isabella (which was made with the assistance of Canberra riesling maestro Ken Helm) is the reserve level riesling of up and coming Canberra District producer Shaw Vineyard Estate.

Very expressive and clearly varietal, the 2009 Isabella's floral aroma of sweetened limes, apple blossom, musky spice and wet stone leap out the glass with pleasing intensity and perfume. It's quite a concentrated, juicy and purposely sweet-edged riesling, with clear citrus and white flower notes outlined by candied aspects and ample structure. There's a more than obvious influence of residual sugar, but it's neatly entwined with brisk, austere acids which help drive the wine towards a generously long, sweet and sour finish.

ü The 2009 Isabella is definitely Germanic in approach, but unlike some other Australian interpretations of the style it contains the even ripeness, length and essential acidity to pull it off. It's another welcome addition to Australia's riesling landscape. Drink to 2016.
90 points


Monday, December 28, 2009

WYNNS CABERNET SHIRAZ MERLOT 2007

- Coonawarra, SA
- $10-$21
- Screwcap
- 14.0%alc

Admittedly, the CSM has never been my favourite piece of the Wynns puzzle. This belief was only enforced by a vertical tasting I took part in at the winery in July 2007 (covering vintages 2002-2005). Solid but not spectacular value is how I'd sum up the CSM, which contrasts with my opinion of Wynns' other red wines.

Rather leafy/herbal on the nose, its plum, berry and licorice aromas are aided by spicy cedar oak and a perfectly valid note of eucalyptus leaf. Medium in body, the palate reveals a typically regional mix of blackcurrant and cedar flavours accentuated by more savoury, earthy undertones and a firming dryness, but it thins out a fraction throughout the mid-back palate, without the true length of fruit required for a higher score.

O Attractively regional at this price, yet still young and brash; Wynns' 2007 CSM should settle down and filll out nicely with a little more cellaring. Drink 2012-2015.
88 points


WINE BY BRAD ROSE 2009

- Margaret River, WA
- $17
- Screwcap
- 13.2%alc

People who know me are well aware of my generally negative views towards Australian rose, especially that made from cabernet. However, it is summer, and this one comes from my favourite cabernet region...

A visually appealling translucent mid-red colour, Wine by Brad's 2009 Rose presents a typically summer-suited fragrance of candied red cherries, creamed strawberries, lemons and kiwi fruit. Light-medium bodied, its smooth, almost creamy palate reveals a more restrained, gentle red berry fruit profile glossed over by soft acids, before finishing in a clean, moderately dry fashion with a mere hint of the candied aspects which falter so many of its contemporaries.

O Rose drinkers will certainly appreciate this more than me, as its gentle restraint and smooth balance has it sitting among the more enjoyable renditions of the style I've had lately. To maximise its pleasing texture, don't drink it straight out the fridge. Drink to 2010.
87 points


Sunday, December 27, 2009

CHATEAU REYNELLA 16 Y.O. RARE OLD TAWNY

- McLaren Vale, SA
- $10
- Cork (Capsule)
- 19.5%alc

Despite the controversy surrounding Chateau Reynella's U.S. parent company, no one could doubt the present day wine quality of this historic brand. The old-vine grenache, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and fortified wines of Chateau Reynella often fly under the radar, but they easily rate with McLaren Vale's finest.

Although not terribly deep in colour this affordable Tawny is a definite brown, unravelling to intensely lifted, heady scents of raisins, orange rind, gentle spice and smoky oak, all of which is overcome by a lingering whiff of strong spirit. There's a lack of penetrative length or depth to its more forward, lighter Tawny-style palate, whose juicy, raisined flavours of Christmas pudding and scorched butterscotch end with a spirity sharpness and sour edges.

ü Regardless of its $10 asking price, I did expect more from this label. It's a lovable cheap Port and not much more than that, which makes it hard to score for me, as even the cheap stuff flows down my palate with discerning ease. Drink now.
87 points

CHATEAU REYNELLA: OUTSTANDING WINE BUT I MUST WHINE



These ugly images, taken on Christmas day, are from what was once a historic vineyard site adjacent the Hardys winery, on the corner of Reynell and Panalatinga Roads at Reynella. Much was written and spoken of when Constellation sold the land to Pioneer Homes earlier this year, and here's the present day picture. You can just see the manicured hedge and entrance signs to Hardys headquarters in the left of the top image. Not that long ago it was nothing but rare suburban vines (diseased from what I've been told by Hardys reps), soon it will be common suburban housing.

I grew up at Reynella, in fact, the house I lived in until I was 20 sat roughly 400 metres from this vineyard site.

South of this vineyard lies Panalatinga Creek (which is suspiciously drier and filled with more overgrown shrubs than what I remember), partnered by the Old Reynella walking trail, which stems from my old family home to the historic Old Reynella settlement in the west.

But directly south sits the monument of John Reynell's (early settler of Reynella) first home, marked by no more than four pine trees, two park benches and a plaque. The monument overlooks the now old vineyard site, providing what was an idyllic view across a historically significant piece of Reynella's heritage. Incidentally, a good section of the vineyard was replanted the same year I was born.

As rambunctious teenagers my friends and I would often congregate at John Reynell's monument. We were too young to drink at home, so we'd often take the a short afternoon stroll to this most placid and relaxing of environments. There, we would drink beer (usually West End Draught) and discuss the current events in our lives and our futures. It gave us somewhere to get away from the rigours of adolescent life. I can recall my first memorable food/alcohol match being discovered while overlooking the vineyard, it was my friend Casey's home brew Coopers Sparkling Ale paired with peanuts. Hardly earth shattering, but when you're 15 in Reynella the world of Wagyu and Lafite is a long way away.

To be honest, none of us even realised there was a vineyard in front of us, what it was there for, or its significance. None of it mattered. All that mattered was we had somewhere to go. And what a lovely place it was too.

Future generations of Reynella's children won't get the same privileges offered to us as kids. They can sit at Reynell's monument if they like, but I hope they enjoy the site of a back fence, just as I hope its residents enjoy the site of kids drinking behind their back fence.

Saturday, December 26, 2009

BROTHERS IN ARMS NO.6 SHIRAZ 2006

- Langhorne Creek, SA
- $15-$23
- Screwcap
- 14.5%alc

Brothers in Arms (est. 1998) is the wine brand of the Adams family, who have been growing grapes in Langhorne Creek since 1891 (including a cabernet sauvignon vineyard which is believed to be one of the oldest on the planet). The No.6 wines draw their name from the present Adams children; the sixth generation of this historic family business.

Warmly scented with a rather generous extract of seasoned, spicy oak overlying fruitcake, prune, dark plum and heady spirit aromas, this 2006 Shiraz reveals a softened, juicy and easily accessible palate whose length is drawn out by sweet oak and bright acids. Although adequately balanced, it's still heavily ripened and perhaps a bit old fashioned, finishing with a persisting meatiness, alcoholic warmth and a hint of salt.

X Unfortunately, the 2006 No.6 Shiraz clearly reflects the difficulties posed to Langhorne Creek growers recently (saline concerns, heat, drought etc.). Thanks to the Bremer River flooding earlier this year, followers of Langhorne Creek wine should be looking forward to 2010 releases with optimism. Drink to 2012.
86 points


A FATHER'S CHRISTMAS CURIO: ORLANDO ST HELGA RHINE RIESLING 1988

- Eden Valley, SA
- ?
- Cork
- 12.9%alc

I've long known my father possessed a bottle of the 1988 St Helga in his collection, but after a bit of digging on Christmas day, I managed to locate another four. "Carn dad, we gotta crack one now", I rather ambitiously stated while full of Christmas cheer.

Opening with an extremely weathered, soaking wet cork, its browning golden/bronze colour presents a nose which does show hints of honeyed toast/kerosene, but it's completely overawed by stronger whiffs of bland breakfast cereals and paint thinner, with wet hessian aromas also present. Distinctly rich on the palate but very oxidative, it pushes through with seriously funky, almost mould-like character. Thank heavens modern Australian rieslings are sealed with screwcap.

X I'll leave the last line here to my father, whom, when asked what he'll do with his other four bottles of 1988 St Helga said; "Well, I'll probably give it another 10 years, then see how it tastes then". Drink during the Atlanta Olympics.
N/A


A CORK TOO FAR: 1988 ST HELGA RIESLING


Here's a picture of the cork from the 1988 St Helga Riesling, which was a rather dubious black on top. Full credit must go to my dad though, for managing to remove it in one piece. Strangely, he seems to have had a lot of practice removing decrepit corks from bottles...

Thursday, December 24, 2009

OZ WINE TOONS


For reasons unknown to most, Santa's sleigh never made it past Murrumbateman this year




Merry Xmas to all and to all a Happy New Year!

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

HENSCHKE LOUIS SEMILLON 2008

- Eden Valley, SA
- $17-$24
- Screwcap
- 13.5%alc

Alongside names like Peter Lehmann, St Hallett, Rockford and Burge Family Winemakers; Henschke is among a motivated bunch of Barossa region producers making serious inroads into the Hunter Valley's long held dominance of semillon. Henschke's Louis is made from the best parcels of fruit from the family's 50 year old semillon vineyard in the Eden Valley.

A little shy on the nose initially, the 2008 Louis opens to reveal a herbal presence of gooseberry and melon fruits with grilled nut overtones. Rather languid and rich yet fluid, its mineral infused palate announces clean and clear lemon citrus flavours, which evolve in a more savoury fashion with lingering notes of herb and a defining smoky aspect, before being punctuated beautifully by delightfully taut and regional, chalky acids.

ü+ Although it might not set the Tyrrells' or Thomas' of this world running in fear, Henschke's 2008 Louis is yet another wine worth sourcing out for anyone interested in discovering South Australian semillon. Fans of Eden Valley wine should appreciate its distinctive backbone, just as I did. Drink to 2015.
92 points