WOODSTOCK THE STOCKS SHIRAZ 2006

 - McLaren Vale, SA

 - $48-$65

 - Screwcap

 - 15.0%alc

The 2006 release of Woodstock's single vineyard Stocks Shiraz sports a new, redesigned white label. After chatting to Woodstock chief Scott Collett last year, I've been ably informed this change was the marketing team's idea, not his (I much preferred the old black bottle, with its label distinctively imprinted straight onto the glass).

After 18 months in mostly French oak (50% new I'm told) it's rather oaky but very pleasant and classy, opening to a pronounced fragrance of lovely nutty/cedar/vanilla and walnut oak, supported by regional fruit undertones of red plum and blackberries. Smooth and vibrant, its medium-bodied palate is beautifully long, announcing a more savoury finish with a pliant extract of grainy tannins and handsome oak overlapping its vivid red/dark fruit flavours. Despite its substantial alcohol there are no signs of over ripeness, and it's a lot classier than many from the Vale.

ü The 2006 is another fine expression of a Ben Glaetzer made Stocks Shiraz; it's lavishly, smartly oaked, yet truly regional and downright delicious. Drink to 2018.

93 points

www.woodstockwine.com.au

PENFOLDS ST HENRI SHIRAZ 2005

 - South Australia

 - $65-$100

 - Cork

 - 14.0%alc

A wine with a very long lineage (some say first release 1957, some 1955 or 1953, there's even been remarks of 1896), the St Henri presently marks Penfolds' attempt at an ultra-premium, multi-regional South Australian shiraz made without the use of new oak. 

Very ripe and meaty, with a stewy fragrance of prunes, currants and dried fruit, the typically fruit forward St Henri's nose is supported by undertones of violet, menthol and cinnamon, displaying good depth of layered aromatics. Its initially essence-like, dark fruited palate extends into meatier, stewed flavours of exaggerated ripeness in a leathery, old fashioned style. Fortunately, the 2005 St Henri balances itself out with great length of fruit and an assertive coating of naturally firm, lifted and fine grained tannins (with some thanks to a 10% cabernet component), delivering more than adequate structure.

O Undoubtedly a result of its season, the 2005 St Henri is a fraction ripe for my tastes, however, it'll continue to please its many fans and age gracefully for at least another decade or so. Drink 2015-2021.

91 points

www.penfolds.com

HEGGIES RIESLING 2009

 - Eden Valley, SA

 - $15-$22

 - Screwcap

 - 12.0%alc

There are few Australian rieslings under $20 which could match the consistent brilliance of Yalumba's Heggies. For interest, the 2009 was harvested from the high altitude Heggies vineyard (550 metres above sea level) between March 12 and March 28.

Rather musky on the nose, this floral riesling is scented with a heady perfume of peach blossom, limes and white pear, exhibiting more ripeness than anticipated. The juicy palate is a bit broad and flabby, but makes up for it with a pleasantly clear flavour profile and good length of fruit. It reveals more forward, ripe stonefruit flavour than typical for the region, with the classic regional notes of lemon/lime citrus and apple providing an undercarriage which lingers into the aftertaste, with a neatly defined touch of the chalky acids that Eden Valley purists seek.

O Undeniably easy to drink and approachable; even regional in some respects, this 2009 riesling still displays a slightly stressed fruit profile which lacks the clarity and tightness of Heggies' best. All the same it's a fine, if earlier maturing Eden Valley riesling. Drink to 2017.

90 points

www.heggiesvineyard.com

BROKENWOOD SEMILLON 2008

 - Lower Hunter Valley, NSW

 - $14-$22

 - Screwcap

 - 10.0%alc

I strongly admire Brokenwood for their undervalued yet consistent, house style entry level semillon, which is typically defined by its distinct lemon/grassy characters and a zesty palate.

Classically clear-straw, almost colourless, the 2008 Semillon shows Brokenwood's clearly lifted, fragrant grassy tones, with restrained aromas of lemon herb and mineral in support. Its clean and pure palate is blessed by a slightly juicy undercarriage of well defined sour lemon flavour, which extends with agreeable thrust into a zingy finish, defined by zesty, sour acids tingling into the aftertaste with an accompaniment of lingering tobacco notes.

ü Brokenwood's 2008 may not possess the cellaring potential of the 2006 (93pts) or 2007 (93pts) wines, but for semillon enthusiasts, it'll drink very nicely into the short term. Drink to 2013.

91 points

www.brokenwood.com.au

JANSZ PREMIUM NON-VINTAGE CUVEE

 - Tasmania

 - $20-$29

 - Cork

 - 12.5%alc

The ever popular Jansz is one of my personal favourite wines. I'd easily consume at least a dozen a year. Being a non-vintage release makes it a little difficult to review, as you're never quite sure if it comes from the same batch as the previous Jansz. The Jansz reviewed today essentially matched the tasting notes I compiled in January 2009, but I did find this bottle a little tighter, and I whacked one point off the final score.

Pale yellow with plentiful bead, a fragrance of grapefruit and fresh green apples supported by yeast greets the nose, displaying the proper signs of a quality Tasmanian sparkling. Long, elegant and shapely, its well balanced lemon, nectarine and melon flavours are outlined by brisk, zesty effervescence and persistent notes of light brioche and citrus. Verging on creamy upon entry; it finishes clean, crisp and fresh, with genuine tightness.

ü+ Typically brilliant; undoubtedly one of the best Aussie aperitifs around, however, I have become a recent convert the more generously textured, complex and foamy Jansz NV Rose (93pts). Drink now. 

91 points

www.jansztas.com

DRAWING A BLANC contd....

Just thought I'd make an addition to my Drawing a Blanc post, a post which may well never end.

Recently I walked into a local, South Australian owned bottle shop (a chain mind you, not a 'true' independent) looking for a bottle of chardonnay. To be more specific, I was after a Margaret River Chardonnay around the $20 mark. To be more specific again, I had Brookland Valley's Verse 1 in mind (it was a chain which tends to stock mass market wines).

Upon entering the aforementioned retail store I quickly noticed chardonnay was by no means their specialty, in fact, they only seemed to stock about 4 or 5 (from memory; Taylor's, Peter Lehmann, Jacob's Creek, you get the idea).

At this point the shop assistant (who was about 15-20 years my senior) approached me. He remarked; "G'day buddy, may I help you?" Even though I'd already noticed they didn't stock what I was after I queried anyway; "Yeah, g'day mate, I was after a decent chardonnay for around $20".

To my comment he replied; "Aw don't worry about chardonnay mate, what you want is sauvignon blanc. It's light, fruity and fresh. In fact, we've got a great range of Kiwi wines over here. Here, let me show you." He was right about the great range of Kiwi savvys, they seemed to stock about 40 or so.

But before he could start pointing out to me how much he loved drinking Secret Stone, Montana or something like that, I quipped; "Well, actually mate, I was looking for a chardonnay. Something with a bit of oak present, you know? A fraction more complexity, texture, something a bit more interesting, know what I mean?".

At this point the shop assistant looked at me with a blank stare (it appeared he'd never considered wine as something with texture); apologised he didn't have the wine style I was after (after pointing out to me the initial 4 or 5 chardonnays I had seen when I walked in) and left me alone, moving as far away from me as he could.

Sometimes not just being young, but looking younger (most people assume I'm 19), has its benefits in wine. People always seem to have the balls to tell me their theories, or impressions (which they wouldn't normally tell a more 'mature' person), because they automatically assume they can educate the shit out of me with their vast knowledge of wine.

I actually appreciate people telling me these novel facts. I find it gives me a unique point of view on the industry, from the bottom up.

I'll be posting some of the more interesting (straight-up bullshit) things I've been told by people working in the wine industry, in the near future. Stay posted.

Oh yeah, back to that shop assistant; and I wondered why Marlborough sauvignon blanc is the biggest selling wine style in Australia.

CROSER 2006

 - Adelaide Hills, SA

 - $29-$42

 - Cork

 - 13.0%alc

Petaluma's Croser is South Australia's premier sparkling white wine. Although the memories are beginning to fade, there was a time when many recognised it as Australia's best. The 2006 combines 63% pinot noir with 37% chardonnay.

Pale straw, with abundant bead and foamy lace, it reveals a fascinating yet fresh blend of honey, nougat and almond meal aromas bound by notes of melon and citrus. It's quite rich and creamy on the palate with good mid-palate weight, but its fast developing, idiosyncratic and forward flavours of meaty cherries and yeast with honeyed nut undertones lack the genuine length, finesse and effervescent drive of the top vintages, finishing with a mild presence of lemony/grapefruit-like acids.

O A different style of Croser by my reckoning; it'll be interesting to see how this label evolves now its namesake has moved on (and with impending Japanese ownership). Drink to 2011.

88 points

www.petaluma.com.au

SCORING SYSTEM

Australian Wine Journal uses the 100 point scoring method. Below is a brief explanation of how I interpret this method, which can be confusing at first, especially since 75 effectively equates to zero.

96+ Top Gold/Trophy Exceptional. Wine of the highest standard.

94-95 Gold Medal Extremely good wine. Outstanding expression of variety or style.

92-93 Top Silver Medal Very good wine. Just missed out on Gold Medal.

90-91 Silver Medal Good wine.

87-89 Bronze Medal Wine has achieved a certain standard. Very acceptable.

85-86 - Average wine. Still shows some pleasing features.

82-84 - Below average wine. Showing some undesirable features.

79-81 - Poor wine.

76-78 - Very poor wine.

75 - Effectively zero.

74- - Seriously tainted or faulty wine.

In addition to a score out of 100, I also give wines a recommendation rating in terms of value for money. This rating is done in the way of a small graphic at the beginning of the wine summary. The following graphics indicate as follows:

ü+ Highly Recommended

ü Recommended

O Commendable

X Not Recommended

Wines will be awarded a higher recommendation graphic if they represent something original, or particularly interesting, but their 100 point score will not be altered as such.

BARRATT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009

 - Adelaide Hills, SA

 - $19-$24

 - Screwcap

 - 14.0%alc

The Barratts operate an absolutely charming cellar door within the confines of their beautiful family home, near Summertown in the Adelaide Hills. Winemaker Lindsay serves the wine himself, while his wife Carolyn is completely adept at preparing delectable platters for visitors.

Assessed a week prior to its release (thanks Lindsay!), Barratt's 2009 Sauvignon Blanc is fresh and inviting, with ripe, tropical fruit aromas of passionfruit and melon underscored by a light grassy tone. It possesses good, zippy, faintly bitter natural acidity, which stimulates the side and back palates, whilst providing the framework for an inner core of cleanly restrained, juicy varietal fruits laced with distinct notes of lemon citrus.

ü Quite a generous, mouthfilling Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc; Barratt's 2009 is bound to please any consumer lucky enough to pick one up. Drink to 2010.

90 points

www.barrattwines.com.au

O'LEARY WALKER POLISH HILL RIVER RIESLING 2009

 - Clare Valley, SA

 - $15-$24

 - Screwcap

 - 12.0%alc

Established in 2000/01 by a couple of industry veterans, O'Leary Walker is an emergent Clare winery gaining a steady following for its solid reds and refreshingly varietal whites. Their rieslings in particular, are already recognised among the region's best.

Generously scented, the 2009 Polish Hill presents a well defined and floral, yet sweetish fragrance of apricot/peach blossom with nuances of citrus tart and apple. Juicy and forward, with mouthfilling flavours of apricot kernel, lemon, caramelised pear and apples, its rather candied palate is softly lifted by an approachable influence of steely acids, with notes of sweet fruit persisting into the aftertaste. It severely lacks true penetration and lasting impression.

X A massive turnaround from the structured, dry and savoury 2008 (91pts), this is a sweetish, easy drinking riesling which might even appeal to those who don't like the style. It's not for me though. Drink to 2014.

86 points

www.olearywalkerwines.com