Tuesday, March 16, 2010

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

As my infatuation with wine has grown, so too has my growing attraction to wine glassware. I'll often spend half an hour or so browsing through the glassware section at stores such as David Jones, Harris Scarfe or Wheel and Barrow, while Beck looks at the clothes (or other girl-related items), it actually gives me something constructive to do! Also, every time we dine out at a restaurant, cafe or pub, I find myself scrutinising the choice of glassware almost as much as the food, service or wine list. I love a good wine glass, and I thoroughly enjoy drinking from them.

This post is dedicated to the glassware which I use to review the wines for Australian Wine Journal.

My own personal collection of glassware numbers close to 100 now, of which, the vast majority goes largely unused. I possess about 20 or so Champagne flutes and about another 20 tasting glasses, both of which come in handy for parties or organised tastings (which I haven't organised for nearly 2 years now), there's also a fair whack of old, cheap glasses which I only still have because no one's broken them yet.

These are the glasses that I do use for Australian Wine Journal and how they're used. Basically, they're my blogging 'tools' really.

Standard Wine Tasting Glass
To be honest I don't use these much anymore. Like I previously mentioned I have about 20 of these, and it amazes me the subtle differences between almost all of them. There was a time when I'd use these for lighter, aromatic whites, but now it's dessert wines and little else, except maybe the odd fortified. I also use these for assessing the aroma of sparkling/fortified wines on the side, as I find my Champagne flutes and Port/Liqueur glasses relatively insufficient for that purpose.

Taltarni Flute
Of the ten or so different styles of Champagne flute I have, this is my favourite. I picked them up from Taltarni a few years ago, back when I was looking for an ultimate flute shape, and I love 'em. The glass is of very good quality and they're particularly delicate and fine. More recently however, I've found myself converted to the tulip shaped Champagne flutes (the type which always beat around with the big Champagne house logos emblazoned on them), so a couple of them are high on my 'to-buy' glassware list. Personally I don't use flutes for decent sparkling reds, I prefer red wine glasses.

Riedel White Tasting Glass
I drink almost all my white wines out of these. Semillon, riesling, sauvignon blanc etc all get chucked in the Riedel, as does almost all my chardonnay. As Australian chardonnay becomes finer, tighter, leaner, more elegant and mineral, I tend to use these glasses more. Personally I find the traditional Burgundy shape suits a fuller, more luscious and perhaps even worked or mature chardonnay better. I've also been known to pour the odd sparkling red in these babies. Top of my wine glass wish list is new glassware for aromatic whites. I know exactly the style I want (I'd call it the classic restaurant glass), but I've yet to find the exact style I want at the price I want.

Riedel Red Tasting Glass
By far the most used wine glass in my collection. When I bought these the sales lady told me I'd never use another glass again, and she wasn't that far off! They can reach as high as $50 retail, but you should really be able to pick one up for $20 or so, especially as numerous Australian cellar doors stock these with their logo printed on the glass. I'm happy to throw any half decent red in the Riedel (even good pinot noir) and all the top shelf stuff definitely gets poured straight in. Heavy (or typically Australian?) reds drink particularly well out of these, as do good quality sparkling reds.

Edinburgh Hotel Glass
Sorry about the plug but I'm always happy to promote The Ed; Adelaide's best pub. The Ed gives these out at their annual Great Shiraz Challenge and I'm quite glad, as they're actually very good glasses! I tend not to use these for top quality shiraz or cabernet, but I find they're great 'all-rounder' red glasses. I like lighter, softer style reds in these (even the odd white), sangiovese, merlot and cheaper blends in particular. In fact a lot of the cheaper, earlier drinking reds I review on Australian Wine Journal are drunk out of these glasses.

Yalumba 'Big Red' Glass
I'm not entirely sure what to call this beautifully shaped glass, but I do know I bought it from Yalumba, where they use them for their heavier reds at the cellar door. They were sold to me as full-bodied red glasses yet I bought them with dessert wines in mind. I still use these for fortifieds and stickies, but increasingly I'm using them for heavier reds, cabernet styles in particular. Maybe it's just the thought of where I bought it from but I also like viognier out of these glasses, as well as the odd chardonnay. The occasional sparkling red too. Once again these are pretty good all-rounders. Their exaggerated, tapered and closing shape at the top makes them ideal for capturing a wine's aroma.

Stolzle Burgundy Glass
I don't use these perhaps as much as I should, I'm just a little intimidated by their sheer size. I have slightly smaller Burgundy glasses but I still prefer the Stolzles. Personally I prefer very young pinot noir out of my Riedel red glasses, but I definitely like more mature, genuine pinot noir out of these. The same goes for chardonnay, where the mature stuff gets chucked straight in the Stolzles, but the younger wines generally end up in a Riedel. Nebbiolo, with its similar aromatic, perfumed qualities, has been known to find its way into Burgundy glasses at my place too.

Port/Liqueur Glass
These attractive little glasses are what I drink fortified styles from. They're very classy, blown crystal, Italian glassware and fairly pricey considering their small stature ($18 each). I like how I can get my nose into this glass (even with a decent pour), which is something I find a lot of port/liqueur glasses lack, as many of them are no larger than a single pour, or even a shot glass with a stem.


So there you have it - the official glassware of Australian Wine Journal! As you can see I do like to vary things up a bit! As with most people's glassware collections it is a collection in evolution, but this is what I use now.

For interest I also use a Zerutti turn decanter (I'm sure many of you will know the one) but I forgot to take a photo - whoops!

Also, I'm not a big fan of those stemless, O-Series Riedel glasses. I've used them several times before and because I have small hands I find them quite ungainly, as I hold them with both hands. They make me feel like a toddler sipping Ribena from a Tommie Tippie.


Monday, March 15, 2010

BRAND'S LAIRA CABERNET MERLOT 2008

- Coonawarra, SA
- $16-$25
- Screwcap
- 15.0%alc

Since the 2005 vintage I've noticed a consistent quality throughout Brand's Laira's entry level reds. Apparently some of our nation's show judges might agree with me, as announced by the numerous gold medals emblazoned on Brand's 2008 Cabernet Merlot.

Vividly coloured with purple hues, this slightly minty/leafy Coonawarra red packs a punchy presence of blackcurrant, cherry and dark plum aromas with vanilla/cedar oak, admirably reflecting both region and style for its price. Its rather syrupy palate delivers genuine length of bright fruit, with vibrant, sweetly fruited cassis, raspberry and violet flavours wrapped up by fine-grained cedar oak and a generously ripened coating of polished tannins.

ü+ I must comply with the show judges at the Royal Adelaide who awarded this top slot in the cabernet blends class; this truly is an exceptionally balanced and complete, medium-term Coonawarra blend of outstanding drinkability. Incredible value. Drink to 2016.
92 points


Friday, March 12, 2010

CLONAKILLA SHIRAZ VIOGNIER 2008

- Canberra District
- $80-$110
- Screwcap
- 14.0%alc

With a long succession of stellar vintages and a following that seems to grow inexplicably, Clonakilla's Shiraz Viognier has become a genuine threat to Grange's long held mantle of Australia's ultimate wine. Unsurprisingly the 2008, which has been available for about 6 months now, has already received rave reviews from practically every Australian critic imaginable.

Exotic, musky and floral, this vibrantly coloured young red opens gradually to a faintly meaty perfume of red cherries, raspberry, cinnamon and white pepper with a seamless measure of French vanilla oak. Medium-bodied, gloriously silky and satiny; its superlative palate achieves a level of opulent elegance some might believe unachievable with such a young Australian shiraz, as it unloads a perfectly ripened, vivid cocktail of small berry fruit flavours which are lifted by an expansive wave of carefully integrated spice notes. It finishes more savoury and agreeably firm, with a sensual tapestry of velvet-like, fine-grained, powdery tannins and a lingering impression of soft mulberry/raspberry character. It's ridiculously addictive and seems significantly more drinkable than at release.

ü+ Floral, evenly ripened, medium-bodied, soft, silky, fine-grained and long; the 2008 is a truly ethereal wine and another must-buy Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier for anyone wishing to know the full extents of what Australian shiraz can achieve. Superb. Drink to 2026.
96 points


Thursday, March 11, 2010

PIRRAMIMMA PETIT VERDOT 2002

- McLaren Vale, SA
- $22-$31
- Cork
- 14.5%alc

McLaren Vale's Pirramimma is almost unanimously considered one of Australia's leading makers of straight petit verdot. In my opinion the 2002 was their finest achievement this century with the lesser known Bordeaux variety, which I previously rated 93 points back in August 2007.

Showing a clear whiff of fresh cedar, this 8 year old petit verdot opens to a settled, dusty and savoury bouquet of chocolate raisins and cooked meat overlying nuances of dried herb and pencil shavings. It's very silky, long and smooth, with a powdery framework set around its complex yet totally harmonious interweaving of medium-bodied red/blackcurrant, cedar, earth and dried herb flavour. Bearing the mark of true length of fruit sweetness (thank you 2002 vintage), it finishes with expansive notes of chocolate raisins and raspberry bullets touched by a moderate dryness, growing ever more compelling with every sip; just like a good mature red should.

ü+ Surprisingly complex, this wine changes unequivocally with time, air and temperature. All the same it's a great little expression of a McLaren Vale Bordeaux-style, and I've probably underestimated its cellaring life a fraction. Drink to 2012.
92 points


Wednesday, March 10, 2010

PRIMO ESTATE IL BRICCONE SHIRAZ SANGIOVESE 2008

- McLaren Vale, SA
- $17-$25
- Screwcap
- 14.5%alc

With a string of wines that have transcended trying vintages (2005-90pts, 2006-88pts, 2007-91pts), Joe Grilli's certainly proven he has a knack for blending sangiovese with shiraz. His 2008 Il Briccone combines 85% shiraz from Primo's Clarendon and McMurtrie Road vineyards with 15% sangiovese, matured in older oak barrels for 14 months.

Youthfully coloured, the 2008 Il Briccone's rather ripe, tarry nose of plum and currant fruits is backed by hints of dark chocolate oak and tobacco. Barely medium in weight, its dark and savoury palate reveals cherry and tobacco flavours with just a touch of ultra-ripe, currant-like fruit which denies it a little length and vibrancy, however, it finishes quite aptly with fair if not astounding length, and a simple yet approachable structure underscored by a dry herbal thread.

O The 2008 isn't my pick of Primo's recent Il Briccone wines, but it's true to the Grilli mission statement in that it remains perfectly suited to Mediterranean cuisine. Drink to 2013.
88 points


Sunday, March 7, 2010

OZ WINE TOONS


The fine art of sauvignon blanc connoisseurship


Thursday, March 4, 2010

BINDI COMPOSITION PINOT NOIR 2008

- Macedon Ranges, VIC
- $47-$55
- Cork (Vintage dated Diam)
- 14.0%alc

Bindi is a small yet iconic producer best known for making some of Australia's very finest and fastidiously made pinot noir. In all respects they're exactly the type of winery I'd want representing Australia on the world stage.

Sourced from Bindi's Block K (established 2001) and Original (planted in 1988) vineyards, the attractively hazy, lightly shaded 2008 Composition Pinot Noir reveals a fairly straight forward varietal fragrance of red cherry and musk stick enlivened by additional notes of earth/game meats and spice. Still very youthful, its satiny palate gently caresses the mouth with the airy grace of feminine touch, presenting a quietly understated yet seamless marriage of youthful, red pinot berry fruits and savoury earth. It evolves with developing savoury characters and brisk, ultra-fine structure towards a pleasingly dry finish marked by fluffy fruit undertones.

ü Bindi's 2008 Composition is a shining example of the understated, gentle and elegant aspects of young pinot noir. It's a terrific earlier drinking pinot for those who truly appreciate the more subtle characteristics of the variety. Drink to 2014.
91 points


CAPE MENTELLE 'TRINDERS' CABERNET MERLOT 2007

- Margaret River, WA
- $22-$32
- Screwcap
- 14.5%alc

It's a pleasure to see Cape Mentelle's Trinders return to its best form since 2004 (92pts). With the resources available to Cape Mentelle's winemaking team, there's absolutely no reason why the Trinders shouldn't consistently rate with Australia's best $25 cabernets.

Another classically regional effort from the 2007 Margaret River vintage, the Trinders opens to herbal aromas of dusted blackcurrants and black olive supported by a fine measure of toasty cedar oak. Its beautifully balanced and presented palate contains the elegance and structure associated with the region, delivering a perfectly ripened mix of medium-weighted, plush small black berry and dark cherry fruit flavour. A healthy coating of charry cedar oak extends the wine, with a fine-grained, powdery chassis of drying tannins gripping the very long finish with a pleasing firmness and lasting dryness.

ü+ At $22 (right now) this is the best, most affordable bottle of 2007 Margaret River cabernet I've had yet. It's great to drink a wine of such quality that's so cheap. Now, if we could just get a red vintage like that over here in South Australia....Drink to 2021.
93 points


Wednesday, March 3, 2010

HARDYS SIR JAMES PINOT NOIR CHARDONNAY BRUT DE BRUT

- Various, AUS
- $7-$16
- Cork
- 12.0%alc

I must admit to being a little confused with the labelling of Hardys' entry level Sir James sparkling whites. Naturally, one might expect the Brut de Brut (brut referring to dry) to be drier than its Cuvee Brut sibling, however, the Cuvee Brut's back label claims it finishes in a crisp, dry style, while the Brut de Brut says it 'finishes with a refreshing natural acidity'. Fortunately there was a store attendant on hand to the point me in the direction of the drier wine, or at least as he saw it.

Displaying truly miniscule bead, this very clear-straw sparkling reveals a surprisingly yeasty, honeyed fragrance (24 months lees ageing) of grapefruit and lemon zest. Somewhat juicy, creamy and forward, its loose-knit palate lays slightly candied lemon sherbet-like acids over its grapefruit/white flower flavour, and although it doesn't tighten with any real significance, it does announce a touch of foamy fizz and some lingering bitter aspects.

O Not a bad fizz for under $10, but it doesn't really compare to the freshness or tightness of Jacob's Creek's Blanc de Blancs. Drink now.
85 points


Monday, March 1, 2010

TINTILLA ESTATE PEBBLES BRIEF CHARDONNAY 2009

- Hunter Valley, NSW
- $26
- Screwcap
- 14.0%alc

From a very traditional Australian chardonnay region winemaker James Lusby has fashioned this one year old wine with a justifiably modern yet rather minimalist approach (minimal skin contact, no lees stirring, no malolactic fermentation, no oak maturation and barrel fermentation in mostly older oak).

Surprisingly, the 2009 Pebbles Brief openly proclaims its barrel fermentation, with a deliciously clear whiff of nutty nougat underscored by more restrained notes of creamy honeydew melon, guava and spirit. Clean and inviting if a bit simple, its precisely judged palate displays a good depth of bright, juicy fruit wrapped up by quirkier cheesy/vanilla/yeasty notes, with refreshingly soft acids woven throughout its enduring tones of melon and grapefruit. Much to their credit Tintilla's managed to cram masses of flavour and character into this carefully made, low intervention chardonnay.

ü+ Without doubt the team at Tintilla Estate produce this chardonnay with a clear stylistic directive and in 2009; mission achieved. It's a standout example of barely oaked Hunter chardonnay; a true crossover wine and a happy surprise to all those who discover it. Drink to 2015.
92 points