Famed for its spectacular minerality, tight acid structure and unique terroir, Seppelt's Drumborg resides at the cutting edge of Australia's modern riesling class, taking the challenge right up to long term classics like Grosset's Polish Hill and Leo Buring's Leonay.
Almost colourless, with an icy impression of coolness that restricts its water-tight, stony scents of minerals, quartz, lime and jasmine flower, the 2011 Drumborg's nose does shy away in its infancy, but that's of little concern right now. Now then. An incredibly pure, unblemished minerality graces the palate's first movement, preceding a clean taste of freshly squeezed lime juice that emerges through the middle and after sections, before its mineral notes regroup to accompany its genuinely elegant, beautifully measured citrus elements into a very long, classy finish exuding bright, mouth-watering acids and subtle notes of nashi pear and lemon sherbet. Although impressionable and well built up, its structure reveals a surprisingly calm, seamlessly woven exterior, staying true to the wine's purity and elegance whilst steering well clear of anything unforced or aggressive. It's so pure, understated, youthful and practically virginal, with a sophisticated composition shining throughout. Think of a princess in high school...
ü+ From what must now be one of Australia's most important riesling sites, Seppelt continue to do wonders with the Drumborg. The 2011 carries on the label's fine pedigree, with a minerality, composition, texture and structure rare in Australian riesling. A bottle aged release from this vineyard might be a novel idea but in the meantime, just watch it grow, slowly. Drink to 2029.