Tuesday, December 14, 2010

KNAPPSTEIN ENTERPRISE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008

- Clare Valley, SA
- $37-$46
- Screwcap
- 14.5%alc

The Enterprise is Knappstein's single vineyard, reserve level cabernet sauvignon. Its fruit source is a low yielding, 40+ year old dry grown vineyard planted over Terra Rossa soils at the northern end of the Clare Valley.

Deeply coloured, dark and inky to gaze upon in the glass, Knappstein's 2008 Enterprise has happily gifted minty-cabernet-loving-me a surprisingly minty fragrance considering its hot year. Beyond its minty lift there are glossy notes of black/purple berries, violets and smooth vanilla/chocolate oak, which thankfully, bare no suggestions of dead or over ripe fruit. On entry to the palate it's pleasingly silky, juicy and almost fluffy, before its slick array of minty dark berry and vanilla oak flavours become grittier as the wine moves to a more sour-edged, astringent finish thanks to a convoy of powdery, sandpaper-like tannins and clear acidity. There just seems to be something missing in the wine's transition from sensuous fore-palate to coarse climax, a missing link if you will, which, if anything, probably speaks of the often discussed deficiencies of cabernet sauvignon's mid-palate more than anything else.

O Knappstein's Enterprise is a freshly fragrant, silky 2008 Clare Valley cabernet that does defy its season somewhat, however, its flip-side reminds me why some no longer find one-day cricket inspiring. It starts exciting and ends with a flurry, but what happened in the middle section again? Drink to 2013-2020.
89 points


2 comments:

  1. I wonder if it might flesh out with time?

    ReplyDelete
  2. It's certainly a theory Andy, but for $43rrp it's a risk I personally wouldn't take.

    ReplyDelete