From the cold reaches of Victoria's high country, Delatite produce one of Australia's most celebrated traminers. Many would agree 2008 provided a classic Dead Man's Hill Gewurztraminer (93pts), as many would also agree that 2009 provided much more adverse circumstances for Victorian growers.
Scented with a subdued whiff of lychee, the 2009 Dead Man's Hill also reveals a brassy tone of peach pastry overlying its rose oil and lime aromas, with barely a hint of musky spice evident. Compared to its predecessor it's somewhat deficient in freshness and vitality, with a rather broad, brassy and savoury palate that pushes forward slightly cooked varietal flavours (showing some lychee alongside bacon?) over a faintly oily undercarriage, trailed by enduring notes of clove, lime pith and a dry, smoky aspect. Although devoid of the excessive sweetness or phenolics sometimes associated with the variety, it also lacks a truly refreshing influence of clean acidity.
O More than likely a victim of its season. It's relatively attractive for now, but should be drunk early just to be on the safe side. Drink to 2012.