Margaret River shiraz is a bit like Advanced Hair's hair loss treatment for men with hair; it's a little misunderstood, perhaps not even that popular, but it's always there if you need it. In defense of the style there's been a couple of handy wines from the excellent, very early 2007 vintage which have been altering my perceptions.
Lightly spicy, with a well composed expression of redcurrant, cherry and blueberry aromas, the 2007 Art Series' balanced nose reveals a smart influence of French vanilla oak alongside funky undertones of fennel. Medium-bodied, soft and approachable, its genuinely ripened choc-raspberry flavours are bound by sweet oak/fruit edges which altogether contradict its more inviting nose, but it contains enough poise, harmony and concentration to please.
O Vigorously ripened and plush, this is a generously fruited, sweetly oaked red of immediate consumer appeal, which doesn't really play to the strengths of what Margaret River shiraz can achieve. More spicy finesse, tightness and elegance would've gone a long way here. Drink to 2015.