The modern day Wolf Blass winery finds itself in an ambiguous state. Perched somewhere in TWE's overgrown family tree, Wolf Blass still maintains its place as a household name with Australian drinkers, but its ever changing range and high end products hardly excite the self respecting serious consumer. Really, all-encompassing wine quality must cut through marketing and gadgetry for the once exalted status of Wolf Blass to return. Wines like the 2007 White Label (94pts) and 2010 Gold Label Chardonnays are taking things in the right direction, but it is reds this brand is famous for...
Nutty, creamy, yeasty, perhaps vanilla ice cream cone-like and full of bright, complex character, the 2010 Gold Label Chardonnay sits right in the label's modern groove, supporting its obvious, yet charming inputs with restrained fruit scents of white nectarines, melons, lemon and spice. Showing more control of its fruit than earlier outings, its creamy palate is announced by an upfront savoury richness, pushing clean notes of nuts, brioche and lemon/lime yoghurt into a smoothly set, softly structured finish, whose length and acidity just lack the penetration and biting tightness to instigate real wow factor. Don't mind that though, because its value and style both receive big ticks.
ü+ With so much going on within Wolf Blass it would be easy to ignore the Gold Label Chardonnay. I don't know why, as its character, rich texture and balance make it so easy to like. It's an ideal entry point for proper Aussie chardonnay. Drink to 2015.