The Watson Family Vineyards SBS is a collaborative wine project, born out of a desire to contradict popular opinion of sauvignon blanc.
Faintly nutty and green pea-like, with a restrained fruit scent of lemon citrus and some smoky elements, this Margaret River SBS draws a straight line down what I'd expect from the style, but it does it with good intensity, clarity and definition, all of which I expect from the style anyway. Its palate really holds back on sauvignon blanc's pungent, fruity aspects, instead opting towards a more funky, savoury, mineral and brine-like rendition of passionfruit flavour, with a viscous feel marked by a certain looseness and a subtle tartness, the latter of which lingers softly through its aftertaste of kiwifruit and brine. For all its pleasing funk, it just lacks the tightness, shape and driving acidity of the Margaret River's best, but it's definitely one of the more interesting Australian interpretations of the blend available for under $15.
ü If you're the type of person who never spends more than $15 on your beloved sauvignon blanc, you might find interest in this textured, funky wine. Whether or not you'll prefer it to your favourite cheap and cheerful Kiwi savvy is another thing. It might actually be better suited to the serious drinker on a budget (looking for an SBS?), rather than the quaffer looking for something different. A middle ground for now. Drink to 2012.