- Barossa Valley, SA - $73-$110
- Cork
- 14.0%alc
As Australia evolves to better define its own distinctive terroir through sub-regional definition, we shouldn't forget how many of our very best wines represent a skillfully blended composition of multiple vineyards. Peter Lehmann's magnificent 1996 Stonewell harnesses an appetising combination of predominantly north/north-central Barossa shiraz, drawing fruit from the sub-regions of Greenock, Stonewell, Siegersdorf, Moppa and Koonunga Hill. Whatever's going on here - works in my opinion!
Showing a gorgeous fragrance with ample character, complexity and vibrancy, Peter Lehmann's 1996 Stonewell reveals a balanced, savoury nose underlined by splendid depth of fruit. There's varnish and mushroom scents, maybe a hint of truffle too, with flicks of white pepper and classic cedar/vanilla oak complementing a dry aromatic edge to its wonderfully regional, stained black fruit base. By Barossa standards, its palate is gently weighted and practically medium-bodied in the way it draws out a perfectly elegant, leathery expression of blackcurrant and red cherry flavours; however, an incredibly lively finish really steals the show here. Very long and vivid, its growing leathery and fresh vanilla complexity is kept alive and kicking to the end, courtesy of a binding extract of ultra-fine tannins and slick acid which complement its deliciously persistent flavour without muscling it out. Oh yeah. A 96 for the '96.
ü+ A beautifully complex, seamlessly balanced, somewhat subtle and elegant Barossa shiraz with plenty of fruit richness at its core. It's such a fine example of what the style is capable of with a bit of age. Drink to 2014.
96 points
Hi Chris, I bought one bottle of this at auction a couple of years ago and don't share your view of it unfortunately. I can't believe you didn't use the word 'mint' even once! Easily the most overpowering mint I've ever tasted. Not showing that character to you?
ReplyDeletejoshgtv,
ReplyDeleteI can see where you're coming from. Strangely, of all things, I often find a correlation between mint and vanilla. I personally thought this pushed more vanilla than mint, but I thought the '02 really possessed both, particularly mint, and I actually had a tasting of the '06 last night, which I found more vanilla-like once again. Could just have something to do with how I'm feeling on the night... Either way, they're both characters I don't mind in my shiraz.
By the way, did you like the '96?
Cheers,
Chris P
As a little side note. . .
ReplyDeleteThe '98 Old Block was thrown into a decanter at about 3:30 that afternoon, at which point it smelt very minty/leafy and showing some of the cooler green aspects of Eden Valley shiraz. My mate was meant to come around at 4-4:30 with '96 Stonewell, but didn't arrive until about 5:30, at which point the mintiness of the Old Block had faded. The Stonewell had been decanted for 3 hours before I even stuck my nose into it. Just some additional thoughts...
No I didn't enjoy it at all, I found it really unbalanced... the mint cancelled everything else out for me. I should mention at this point though that I am at least a little sensitive to mint flavour in Shiraz.
ReplyDeleteThat's a shame, but you're certainly not alone in your opinions of mint and shiraz. The 96 (obviously) proved a hit round here, with 3 people whom I know aren't adverse to a bit of mint in their shiraz. Big thanks for the feedback though, you've inspired a new series of posts which we can hope to see on the blog soon. :)
ReplyDeleteCheers,
Chris P
Stonewall Shiraz was probably the first 'icon' wine that I got into. That I could find it in my local supermarket for £30 was a bonus. I had intentions of buying a few bottles each year and stuffing them away, I think I did so with the '04 vintage only and then fatherhood intervened!
ReplyDeleteGreat note as ever. Cheers
Stu
Thanks Stu. I liked the '04, but '02 remains my favourite. '06 looks pretty smart too. Thirty quid though! Imagine that in this day and age of our current exchange rates. . .
ReplyDelete