It interested me to see Wynns dub their new green label cabernet sauvignon 'The Siding'. According to a winery rep, too many consumers were referring to the wine as the green label, which, in Wynns' opinion, is a bad colour to be associating with cabernet sauvignon. On the basis of some 54 vintages, black seems a much better colour match for Coonawarra cabernet.
Perhaps showing more malty notes than I recall in recent vintages, Wynns' 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon nonetheless remains typical of the label's pedigree. It presents an evenly ripened yet well contained fragrance of blackcurrants which edge slightly towards red, boosted by aromas of licorice, toasty cedar/vanilla oak and a faint thread of dry leaf; no mint. The palate itself is just so Wynns. There's a genuine depth and richness to its pulsating core of medium-medium/full bodied regional berry flavours, which although silky to commence, quickly move into a much drier, dustier landscape, forged through the finish by smatterings of dry cedar and a particularly grainy extract of gritty tannins tightly checked by cutting acids. The final impression is very dry, savoury in a mineral way and most of all, physical.
ü+ Structurally, the 2009 is a notable step up from the 2008, but the overall consistency of this wine is incredible. Wynns must possess some sort of factory line for producing flawless Coonawarra cabernet, black-toothed Oompa-Loompas and all. Drink to 2027.