Living off my fond memories of the sublime 2005 (95pts), I still consider Pipers Brook to be Australia's best maker of spicy, musky, purely fruited gewürztraminer. Really, it's just another wine that boldly states what a perfect fit Tasmania is for the white Alsatian varieties.
There's a clean air of purity to Pipers Brook's 2009 which is particularly striking. Within it resides mineral accented scents of candied musk sticks, fresh lychees, apples, mandarin skin and white flower. To say it's pristine might be something of an understatement. The palate dances with a restrained oily viscosity but is equally as defined by its cleanliness. It's long, penetrative and precise, with a flavour profile that marries marginally juicy lychees with a clever, faintly savoury touch of sweet pastry and a clean, crisp, refreshing finish gripped nicely by white grape tannins. As a young Tasmanian traminer (from vines approaching 40 years of age) it's practically flawless, reflecting both region and variety to a tee.
ü+ Stunningly pure and brilliant. At less than $30, Pipers Brook's Gewürztraminer must be one of the most unheralded white wines in Australia. In fact, why don't I drink it more often... Drink to 2015.