The recent recipient of James Halliday's prestigious 'Winery of the Year' award, Kooyong, boasts an impeccably organised assortment of Mornington Peninsula chardonnay and pinot noir. At the more economical end of Kooyong chardonnay sits the typically clean, fruit driven Clonale, which underwent French oak fermentation (12% new oak) followed by 7 months barrel maturation in 2010.
If you contemplate what Kooyong sets out to achieve with Clonale, then the nose of the 2010 fits like a round peg into a round hole. It's nutty and spotlessly clean, with the mineral-coursed fruit aromas of grapefruit and lemon citrus typical of the wine, ably balanced by some creamy, bready lees work imparting an attractive richness into the mix. A sly hint of nutmeg also appears. These characters transfer beautifully onto the palate, which appears borderless without being loose. Creamy but far from fat, it projects a lively movement of lemons and brioche with nutty undertones down the palate with smoothness and good length of flavour, leading into a finish where refreshing softness outweighs brisk acidity and cut, making it ideal for immediate consumption.
ü Modern yes, but soft, refreshing, deliciously flavoursome and very easy to swallow. As a buy today to drink tonight chardonnay, it's about perfect. Drink to 2014.