Wednesday, May 4, 2011

A TERRIBLY AMBITIOUS ENTREE FOR A NERVY YOUNG MORNINGTON CHARDONNAY

Casey's Lamb Tartare (recipe borrowed from
a Mr J. Oliver)
Served on a grilled sourdough crisp bread, this organic lamb back strap tartare is flavoured with gherkin, dijon mustard, freshly squeezed lemon and orange juice, chilli, fresh mint and olive oil.

I've been on a bit of a tartare trip lately. Well, I've had it 3 times this year, which is a lot for me. :) On all 3 occasions I've had it with relatively young, 'anxious' chardonnays. Admittedly, the pairing wasn't my idea originally (it was Casey's), and I can't find anything to suggest it's an orthodox match, but it just seems to work, both reasonably and surprisingly. The complex flavours and rich mouthfeel of chardonnay seemingly play in harmony to the simultaneously moist and crisp (cracker or crisp provided), complex, fresh characters of a tartare like the one pictured, while the young white wine's nervy acidity cuts cleanly through the fat and oil.

For interest, the other chardonnays I've drunk with tartare dishes have been Shaw and Smith's 2008 M3 and Stefano Lubiana's 2009 Primavera, but the one I dream about pairing with tartare is Bindi's 2009 Composition. I just can't find a bottle in Adelaide anymore.... :(


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